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  1. #31

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    You're awesome.
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  2. #32

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    Quote Originally Posted by Hermitism View Post
    Excellent idea! I think you can sense I'm not overly confident about cutting a hole in a perfectly good working unit.
    Just tryin to give some pointers...I'm also considering giving my Onker a IEC however I wouldn't dream of cutting into it's rear panel before I tried on scrap metal first. Practice makes perfect yaknow:)
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  3. #33

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    Quote Originally Posted by Hermitism View Post
    If I do this, I'll need to drill two holes to anchor the inlet. Since I'll be drilling into metal and not plastic, I have one question. My experience with drilling in to metal has always been the same. When you first start to drill, the drill bit immediately starts to slide and you have to take a center punch and hammer to make an indention for the bit to sit in. Obviously I don't want to take a punch and hammer to a delicate piece of electronics. Since this is aluminum, will the bit dig in and hold it's place because of the soft metal or will it still want to slide?
    You won't have bit wandering if instead of a punch, you pre-drill a tiny hole with a small bit like a 1mm - 1.5mm. Use a variable speed drill. Start slowly and increase speed and pressure as the bit starts penetrating the metal.
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  4. #34

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    I know when drilling into steel, you have to lubricate the bit with oil. As soft as aluminum is, will I still need to lubricate the bit with a drop of oil to keep it cool? As thin as the sheet metal is, I can't imagine it taking long to go through.
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  5. #35

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    Quote Originally Posted by Hermitism View Post
    CARDAS Quad Eutectic Solder, so I found ten foot pieces for sale on eBay for $4.50/free shipping. That will last me a lifetime, so I see no need to buy a spool full. So this stuff has a resin core flux incorporated into the solder? So no prep work or flux needed before hand? Just melt it with a solder iron and your good?
    Yep, no need to use flux. BUT! Don't melt the solder with the iron. You should heat the object you are soldering to a temperature that the solder melts onto it (them; i.e. IEC blade and wire). Does that make sense?

    Yeah, I thought i would only need a small spool of it! I have bought 2 big spools of it since. Once you start soldering, you won't stop. Too many mods and too much fun!

    Quote Originally Posted by helipilotdoug View Post
    Don't buy it. I'll send you some when I send your cable back. Cardas Quad is really the best, and is the only solder I use.
    Another kind gesture frm Doug! You rock Doug!
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  6. #36

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    Quote Originally Posted by headrott View Post
    Yep, no need to use flux. BUT! Don't melt the solder with the iron. You should heat the object you are soldering to a temperature that the solder melts onto it (them; i.e. IEC blade and wire). Does that make sense?
    Doug just sent me a pm telling me the same thing. Great info guys!
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  7. #37

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    Are you guys starting to get a feel for just how much I used to drive DSkip crazy with questions? Dealing with me is like raising another child. You know, it's really Skip's fault. He found this AVR for me...he's the one that picked out a unit without a removable cord. lol
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  8. #38

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    Been reading up on Gold vs. Rhodium and here are a few comments by people. They talk about Gold giving a warmer sound, rhodium being brighter. I have no experience with this, so I don't know just how noticeable it would be, but I have RTi speakers which are known for being bright. I wondering if gold would be the better choice for my system. Seems to me what will make the most difference is what cable you pair it with.

    The base metal is more important. Copper sounds better than brass, IMO. Gold plated copper is warmer than Rhodium plated copper.

    In general, I find rhodium plating tends to present a notably smooth sounding characteristic with a somewhat neutral tonality (if not a bit cool/cold sounding), and a more front row sounding presentation as compared to gold plating which is more laid back, full bodied, and more middle row, while silver plating tends to sound leaner

    (silver and rhodium plated) The overall sound is detailed but I find highs slightly bright on less pristine recordings,the sound lacking bloom and would like more body and warmth.

    I have found Furutech gold plated plugs too much warm


    My choice between Oyaide and Furutech was made easier by Doug offering me the solder. I have to buy the inlet from him now, it's the ethical thing to do! What I would really like to do is IF this project has good results, I could remove the furutech and put it in something else and get the Oyaide and see if I can hear the difference. My TV already has an IEC inlet, but my power conditioner doesn't.
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  9. #39

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    I'm about to go to sleep, but I have a couple questions which will hopefully give me something to read in the morning. What are the best screws to use with these inlets? Sheet metal screws or machine screws with nuts? I'm assuming sheet metal screws since this is in fact sheet metal. I just wondered if, as thin as the metal is, if a sheet metal screw will pull out with these tight fitting after market PC's. I've noticed "tight fitting" listed as a benefit on a lot of cable websites. I don't want to pull the cord out and end up yanking the outlet out.

    I understand the logic of an upgraded power cable providing better current/less resistance due to it having a beefier gauge or better materials. I also see the logic in a PC filtering the AC in the last few feet before it enters the unit causing a lower noise floor. So I guess it's sort of acting like a power conditioner. Does the length of the cable affect the results? I mean does a PC need a certain length to be affective? Does a <1 meter cord clean up the power line as well as a 2 meter cord? What I can't get my head around is how a power cable, inlet, or the plating used, can affect tonal qualities of the music. I'm not denying that it happens, but I don't understand how. I understand it cleaning which results in more detail, but how does the power going into a unit affect the tone of the music. How can it make it warmer sounding, brighter sounding?
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  10. #40

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    Ok question 1 I can answer without a shadow of a doubt, machine screws with nuts, when they produce the unit the factory has a press that can punch a hole with threads. Now you will have a drill, nibbler and hopefully a Dremel tool, you can make "flat holes" instead of "towered" threaded holes. nuts n bolts n washers are the order of the day for you.
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  11. #41

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    Machine screws with nuts and lock washers.

    Does a <1 meter cord clean up the power line as well as a 2 meter cord?
    Yes.

    How can it make it warmer sounding, brighter sounding?
    Metals have different crystal structures, different densities, etc., which means they have different sound signatures.
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  12. #42

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    Quote Originally Posted by nbrowser View Post
    machine screws with nuts
    Quote Originally Posted by F1nut View Post
    Machine screws with nuts and lock washers.
    Thank you both! I almost didn't ask because I thought it was a dumb question. I'm sure glad I did. I almost screwed up! See what I did there??

    Quote Originally Posted by F1nut View Post
    Metals have different crystal structures, different densities, etc., which means they have different sound signatures.
    Okay, I understand. So if you replace the cord on a TV, not only will it clean up the AC line, but if it can affect sound, then it should also affect the color, correct? Are plasmas, LCD, and LED all affected the same? Plasmas draw more power, don't they? Would they benefit the most by the beefier cable, but all three benefit from the cleaner power?

    And if you are using a power conditioner, are the benefits less noticeable after upgrading the power cord? I saw good results from upgrading the cord on my Blu-ray player, but I didn't have a power conditioner at the time, and I also applied some Dynamat at the same time which could also explain part of the benefits I noticed.

    I also remember you mentioning in a thread that some people have reported a negative affect in audio using Monster power conditioners. Is it because of the way it filters or a restriction of current? When I started applying Dynamat to my components, I noticed that when I flicked the lid to the Monster, it rang like a bell before applying the Dynamat. Could that have been the reason for the complaints. I actually haven't noticed any problems with sound from using it compared to plugging the components straight into the wall outlet. But again, I'm using an all-in-one AVR for my music playing, and I've never accused myself of having audiophile-grade ears.

    Speaking of audiophile grade ears, everyone is always speaking of the "sound stage" which I understand. Before getting help with proper speaker placement, I didn't really understand because that's not how I listened to music. I understand width of the sound stage, but I'm having problems hearing depth of the sound stage which I've heard people mention before. On 85% of the music I listen to the vocals are front and center, it sounds like the vocals are coming from the center channel when playing in two-channel. And sometimes the vocals sound like they are closer, but I think that is more due to the vocals having a higher volume level than the instruments. But all the instruments sound to me like they are lined up in a straight line from left to right. For example, the drums don't sound like they are coming from behind everything else. Is that what you mean by depth of the sound stage? Is that just a limitation of my speakers, or because I'm using an AVR, or something else?
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  13. #43

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    Quote Originally Posted by Hermitism View Post
    Skip, I saw where you recently bought two Pangea AC-14SE cables. Do you notice a significant difference between those and the non-SE model?
    Quote Originally Posted by DSkip View Post
    Yes on my preamp. No on the power amps, even compared to generic PC's. The SE added holographic imaging where the non-SE was very flat and two dimensional. Rather lifeless actually when compared to the SE. Soundstage was also more recessed with the standard version.
    You know, they are making a AC-14XL now. Supposed to be an improvement over the Signature Edition. I don't think they make a XL edition for the AC-9. It would be out of my price range anyway.

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  14. #44

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    Audio Advise has a trade in/trade up deal with the XL's, if you have Ac-14 or AC-14SE and want to upgrade to the XL's they will charge you for the XL & ship it to you, then you send them your other AC-14 and they will credit you full value that you paid for the original.

  15. #45

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    Quote Originally Posted by voltz View Post
    Audio Advise has a trade in/trade up deal with the XL's, if you have Ac-14 or AC-14SE and want to upgrade to the XL's they will charge you for the XL & ship it to you, then you send them your other AC-14 and they will credit you full value that you paid for the original.
    That's actually an impressive deal. Do they have to have your original purchase on file in their records? Probably so. I bought mine AC-14 used.
    Last edited by Hermitism; 06-09-2014 at 06:27 PM. Reason: I'm illiterate.
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  16. #46

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    yes, just saw the part that says to 1st call for a RA# for your old cable before sending in your old cable.

    so they would probably go by what was on file.

  17. #47

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    I also remember you mentioning in a thread that some people have reported a negative affect in audio using Monster power conditioners. Is it because of the way it filters or a restriction of current?
    I don't know the exact reason, just that they muddy things up.

    For example, the drums don't sound like they are coming from behind everything else. Is that what you mean by depth of the sound stage? Is that just a limitation of my speakers, or because I'm using an AVR, or something else?
    Yes. I'd go with the AVR.
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  18. #48

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    I'm one step closer. I snagged a used Pangea (1 meter) AC-9SE yesterday for a "buy it now" price of $75 plus shipping. I've been searching daily and caught the listing not long after it was posted. I've never used the regular AC-9, so I have no way of knowing if the extra money was warranted. Has anyone here tried both? I know Skip mentioned that he likes the SE version of the AC-14. Someone here listed two AC-14SE's for sale about a month ago, but some butthole DSkip had to buy both of them.

    I know the AC-9/AC-9SE's are supposed to be stiff and look like a garden hose, but I've got seven inches between the back of my AVR and the wall to make a turn. I can pull out the AVR a little further if I need more room.

    If it doesn't work out, it looks like it would make a nice weapon, if swung. I wouldn't want to get hit with it.
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    Will I need to use Heat Shrink Tubing over the solder joints on the inlet? Just want to make sure I have everything I need when the parts arrive.
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    Make sure that socket is installed and supported well if you're using the AC9. Heaviest damn power cord I've held. The 14/14SE and 9/9SE have similar geometries, so the 9SE should sound much better than the regular 9 if my experience was any indication. $75 is a pretty good price.
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    Quote Originally Posted by DSkip View Post
    Make sure that socket is installed and supported well if you're using the AC9. Heaviest damn power cord I've held. The 14/14SE and 9/9SE have similar geometries, so the 9SE should sound much better than the regular 9 if my experience was any indication. $75 is a pretty good price.
    It was $75 + $16.08 shipping. The guy told me it was pretty stiff. I should have enough room behind my AVR to make a turn. The PC is out for delivery today, so I'm anxious to check it out. I'll stick it in my computer or something and wiggle it around near each end to make sure there isn't a short in it.
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    Your cable, inlet IEC and some Cardas solder will ship out to you tomorrow. I'll also throw in some heat shrink tubing. You more than likely don't need to cover those solder joints, but it won't hurt anything.
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    Can I have an extra power cord???






    I'M KIDDING! You've gone above and beyond the call of duty on this project! Much appreciated!
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  24. #54

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    Pangea AC-9SE

    Thick as a garden hose? Nah, thicker.

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    FYI, for anyone that wants to buy one of these, but doesn't know if they have enough room, I'd recommend 6 to 7 inches to make a 90 degree bend without putting any stress on the cable or inlet/outlet.

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    Polk: RTi8 Towers, CSi5 Center, F/Xi3 Surrounds, CSi3 Single Rear | Polk Subs: PSW125-12", PSW303-8"
    Douglas Connection: Furez DCF124BW SC's | AudioQuest Chocolate HDMI | Monster: M850 SW-12, ULT I1000FO-4 IC's
    Acoustic Treatments OC703 | Dynamat: Components, Baskets

  26. #56

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    My new power cord allows me to compute things at a faster rate of speed, which in turn allows me to complete my 8 hours work day in 6 hours. High-five!

    Attachment 99112
    Pioneer Elite SC-05 | Pioneer BDP-51FD | Pangea: AC-9SE, AC-14 PC's
    Monster PowerCenter HTS 5000 | Sony Bravia KDL-46S4100 | Dish HDTV
    Polk: RTi8 Towers, CSi5 Center, F/Xi3 Surrounds, CSi3 Single Rear | Polk Subs: PSW125-12", PSW303-8"
    Douglas Connection: Furez DCF124BW SC's | AudioQuest Chocolate HDMI | Monster: M850 SW-12, ULT I1000FO-4 IC's
    Acoustic Treatments OC703 | Dynamat: Components, Baskets

  27. #57

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    Quote Originally Posted by Hermitism View Post
    My new power cord allows me to compute things at a faster rate of speed, which in turn allows me to complete my 8 hours work day in 6 hours. High-five!

    Attachment 99112
    Eh good way to burn the cable in if you ask me, it'll work til you IEC the AVR :)
    Living Room Evolved
    Onkyo TX-NR717
    Parasound HCA-1200II
    Polk Audio RTi A7 Black Front
    Polk Audio RTi A3 Black Rear
    Polk Audio CSiA6 Center
    Transparent Audio Music Wave Biwire cables > Mains
    Canare 4S11 >Center
    Audioquest Evergreens on most of the analog connections
    Tannoy TS2.12 Sub
    Marantz CD6004
    Pro-Ject Debut Carbon Piano Black TT
    Parasound Zphono Phono Preamp
    Apple Mac Mini
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  28. #58

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    Quote Originally Posted by Hermitism View Post
    Pangea AC-9SE

    Thick as a garden hose? Nah, thicker.

    Attachment 99107
    Na you just have a puny hose:redfaced:

  29. #59

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    Quote Originally Posted by pitdogg2 View Post
    Na you just have a puny hose:redfaced:
    I don't want to know what you'd call my hose then.
    Usher CP-6311, Shuguang S200MK, Shuguang S845MK, Pioneer BDP-51fd, Essence Audio HDACC, Douglas IC's, Douglas Alpha bi-wire SC's, Pangea/Douglas PC's, Epson 8100

  30. #60

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    Quote Originally Posted by DSkip View Post
    I don't want to know what you'd call my hose then.

    Lacking

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