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Thread: polk is crap

  1. #1

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    Default polk is crap

    i was just wondering if anyone has had any problems with the polk mm10? i have had to send mine in for repairs 2 times now. i am only giving it 300 watts rms too. pretty crappy if u ask me. when i get this one back im sellin it. i can get something more reliable for the over $200 that i have spent on it now. customer service dept is awesome but something isnt right with the ones i have gotten. i have had many other subs and have never had this problem with them. just wanted some feedback from others who have owned this sub. and anyone looking for a polk mm10 mine is now officially for sale for i dont care how much i get out of it. its crap. o yea i forgot to say taht i bought them in february of 2004 and sent them in for repair in july 2004 with it not working for probably 2 months before i sent it in and now today is sept 2004 and i gotta send it in again. i just wish i woulda known about the crap before i paid 140 new then shipping it 2 times. o well i guess that ill learn from it. i really just want my money back but i doubt that there is any way to do that.
    looking for a good amp and maybe some subs!

  2. #2

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    www.adireaudio.com - car audio ;)
    www.Vr3Mods.com ///// www.Version3Audio.com

    "No, that's silly talk. Dude, you can't possibly be this audio dumb so quit the act." - Doro

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    adire's definatley some good stuff... just get a single 10 from them, put it in a .5ft^3 box and drop 1000w of good clean power to it and you'll blow your trunk off... these things are awesome and exalted512 and myself are both going with them for our next subs...


    i still love my mm6 component set though YAY POLK :D
    MacLeod: I guess youre lucky Polk has such lax hiring standards.

    Josh: Damn skippy!

  4. #4

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    no im not gonna buy anymore car audio off the internet. its too expensive to keep sending it in for warranty work. gotta buy it local. i may pay a lil more but at least they will stand behind their product without paying for shipping.
    looking for a good amp and maybe some subs!

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    i think you missed the point bud, Adire Audio is a car audio manufacturer who makes one of the most impressive subs on the market, they're very reasonably priced for as good as they are too. find out if they have a dealer near you and check out the specs on their website.
    MacLeod: I guess youre lucky Polk has such lax hiring standards.

    Josh: Damn skippy!

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    Default Re: polk is crap

    Originally posted by Buff013085
    i was just wondering if anyone has had any problems with the polk mm10? i have had to send mine in for repairs 2 times now. i am only giving it 300 watts rms too. pretty crappy if u ask me. when i get this one back im sellin it. i can get something more reliable for the over $200 that i have spent on it now. customer service dept is awesome but something isnt right with the ones i have gotten. i have had many other subs and have never had this problem with them. just wanted some feedback from others who have owned this sub. and anyone looking for a polk mm10 mine is now officially for sale for i dont care how much i get out of it. its crap. o yea i forgot to say taht i bought them in february of 2004 and sent them in for repair in july 2004 with it not working for probably 2 months before i sent it in and now today is sept 2004 and i gotta send it in again. i just wish i woulda known about the crap before i paid 140 new then shipping it 2 times. o well i guess that ill learn from it. i really just want my money back but i doubt that there is any way to do that.
    I think you're an idiot because if the speaker breaks 2 or 3 times then it's not the speaker or the manufacturer. You're screwing something up. Either you are pushing the amp too hard and sending it into clipping and destroying the sub with dirty sound or you never let the sub break in and are just distingrating it with too much power too soon.

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    typical polkhead. its always my fault. unless the break in on the instructions is wrong i did it right. and if giving it 300 rms is too much power then yea its my fault and if turning my deck up to 28 is bad then yea its my fault. but i had the same deck and same amp pushing a 10 that was rated at 250 and never had any kind of problem with it. and pretty much i have read a few other people with the same problem as me. so i guess u can call me an idiot if u want but i have used the same amp and deck on diff subs and no prob and have had many systems in my life so i pretty much know what im doing. o yea i had a professional install it too.
    looking for a good amp and maybe some subs!

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    Dude, If you want GOOD subs for GOOD price, Go to WWW.PARTSEXPRESS.COM
    I purchased a pair of Dayton DSQ12.4 over a 1 year ago. Rated for 350 watts rms. Ran 500 into each. NO Problems. Currently using a pair of Dayton Loud Speaker Quattro 15's. Rated for 300 watts rms. Running a pair off a RF BD1001 at 2 ohm. Over 500 watts rms each. Dayton loud Speaker makes DJ equipment and Home Theater speakers.
    They have a Titanic MKIII 10" that will handle 400 watts rms. With 18.7mm cone excursion. Only $150 + shipping.
    These subs are designed for SQ.
    Chris

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    what amp and HU were you using to run it? also you should allow that it's possible that you were running it into low levels of distortion w/o realizing it, it's realy not a good idea to run any speaker right below the point of distorton, some can just take more of the abuse than others...
    MacLeod: I guess youre lucky Polk has such lax hiring standards.

    Josh: Damn skippy!

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    i have a panasonic ghost HU its like cq802 or somethin like that and a profile california ca800 amp taht i am using 300 rms at 2 ohm. i could not hear distortion so if it was being distorted then u gotta have a really good ear to hear it. im just gonna buy my friends 12" he2s i can get a good price on them and just eat my loss on this sub.
    looking for a good amp and maybe some subs!

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    if you look past the attitude (jstas doesn't like polk-bashers, and i can't say i do either, but i'm more willing to put up with them), he's offering a couple suggestions: first, that you make sure you're putting 300 clean watts into the sub; that means that the HU isn't turned up too high (unless it's fairly high end, 28 out of 30 is too high; if you're talking 28 out of 35+, no big deal), which causes clipping, and that the gain isn't turned too high on the amp, which also causes clipping. if you're not sure, or if you just want to double check, try following the steps in the second post here. If you find that the gains and HU are appropriately set, and you're quite sure that you've broken the driver in properly, then perhaps you just have rotten luck. mistakes do happen, but if the same thing happens several times, one has to assume that the only constant - i.e. the person listening, in this situation - is the thing that's causing the problem, and while that assumption could be false, it's a good place to start.
    It's not good, very fundamentally simply not good. - geolemon

    "Its not good enough until we have real-time fearmongering. I want my fear mongered as it happens." - Shizelbs

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    mind if i ask how exactly you're pulling that off???

    the Profile CA800 is rated at 200x2@4ohms; 300x2@2ohms; and 600x1@4ohms

    the MM10 (unless i'm greatly confused) is a single 4ohm voice coil sub... if you have 1 mm10 you can only be running it at 4 ohms (200w running off of one channel only)... if you have 2 mm 10's you could be running each one off of one channel at 4 ohms (200w per channel yet again) or you could be trying to bridge the amp at 2 ohms which i don't believe it is supposed to do as it is only 4ohm stable in bridged mode... what you're saying that you're doing is impossible which further leans my opinion of your problem toward user error... so tell me, how exactly did you have this sub wired... were you trying to bridge the amp to a single 4ohm speaker? which would be sending 600wrms at the speaker... were you running it off of one channel, which would only be 200wrms... or were you trying to run 2 4ohm subs bridged off of the amp, which would cause a lot of problems since the amp isn't 2ohm stable when bridged...
    MacLeod: I guess youre lucky Polk has such lax hiring standards.

    Josh: Damn skippy!

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    I've had 3 MM10s since the beginning of the year and haven't had a single problem with any of them. I'm running them off a HiFonics Brutus 1500 sumthin rather (can't remember model #, but it pushes 1500WRMS @ 1ohm), with the subs wired to ~1ohm, and by no means do I take it easy on them. They sound just as good as the day I got em.

    Doug

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    its 28 out of at least 35. im not real sure how high it is cuz i have never gotten it taht high. maybe im only giving it 200 watts then. i just told the audio place to install it. i kno its not bridged tho and even if it was it would be 600 watts which with my amp wouldnt be true watts it would be less and that still shouldnt be enough to blow a sub. i have run many other subs a lot harder than this and didnt blow it. and before it blows shouldnt u hear it distort?
    looking for a good amp and maybe some subs!

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    well dougie want to buy another one after i get it fixed
    looking for a good amp and maybe some subs!

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    to your last question - if the sub is blowing because of over-excursion, then yes, you should be able to hear it. if it's because of signal clipping, you may not hear it before the thing dies (and you are sure the sub dies, right? not just something ridiculous like thermal protection on the amp?)
    It's not good, very fundamentally simply not good. - geolemon

    "Its not good enough until we have real-time fearmongering. I want my fear mongered as it happens." - Shizelbs

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    yes its dead. it didnt work today it didnt work yesterday and started acting up the day before that.
    looking for a good amp and maybe some subs!

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    aight, just checkin :p
    It's not good, very fundamentally simply not good. - geolemon

    "Its not good enough until we have real-time fearmongering. I want my fear mongered as it happens." - Shizelbs

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    how high does the volume go on your cd player? what does it max at? if you're pushing the HU at 28 on the volume dial you might be sending the pre-outs into clipping range in which case you're doing a good deal of damage to the speakers... basically you'd be giving them dirty power... not a good idea....
    MacLeod: I guess youre lucky Polk has such lax hiring standards.

    Josh: Damn skippy!

  20. #20

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    he said at least 35

    you sure it's 35? put in a blank CD and turn it all the way up just to make sure...
    It's not good, very fundamentally simply not good. - geolemon

    "Its not good enough until we have real-time fearmongering. I want my fear mongered as it happens." - Shizelbs

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    hmm... missed that part, my bad... i still wouldn't run it that high... keep the volume lower and the gain a little higher....
    MacLeod: I guess youre lucky Polk has such lax hiring standards.

    Josh: Damn skippy!

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    or fix the sub and sell it and get something that i know can handle the power.
    looking for a good amp and maybe some subs!

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    i was saying as a typical rule of thumb set the gain so you don't have to turn the vol nob up that high
    MacLeod: I guess youre lucky Polk has such lax hiring standards.

    Josh: Damn skippy!

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    i wasnt turning the volume up for the bass i was turning it up cuz i like loud music
    looking for a good amp and maybe some subs!

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    do you not have your interior speakers amped?
    MacLeod: I guess youre lucky Polk has such lax hiring standards.

    Josh: Damn skippy!

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    I always thought if you set your gains properly, it shouldnt matter how far you turned it up. If you set your gain all the way down and turn the volume all the way up, you wont be clipping the amp and thus the speaker is safe. Right?
    polkaudio sound quality competitor since 2005
    MECA SQ Rookie of the Year 06 ~ MECA State Champ 06,07,08,11 ~ MECA World Finals 2nd place 06,07,08,09
    08 Car Audio Nationals 1st ~ 07 N Georgia Nationals 1st ~ 06 Carl Casper Nationals 1st ~ USACi 05 Southeast AutumnFest 1st

    polkaudio SR6500 --- polkaudio MM1040 x2 -- Pioneer P99 -- Rockford Fosgate P1000X5D

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    well the problem is in clipping the pre-outs on the HU, it causes a dirty signal to go on down the line.... bad mojo
    MacLeod: I guess youre lucky Polk has such lax hiring standards.

    Josh: Damn skippy!

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    I didnt know you could clip a pre-out singal. You sure about that or am I just off base again?
    polkaudio sound quality competitor since 2005
    MECA SQ Rookie of the Year 06 ~ MECA State Champ 06,07,08,11 ~ MECA World Finals 2nd place 06,07,08,09
    08 Car Audio Nationals 1st ~ 07 N Georgia Nationals 1st ~ 06 Carl Casper Nationals 1st ~ USACi 05 Southeast AutumnFest 1st

    polkaudio SR6500 --- polkaudio MM1040 x2 -- Pioneer P99 -- Rockford Fosgate P1000X5D

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    yep... the signal cuts down to half it's normal power... some are non clipping but those are only in realy nice decks
    MacLeod: I guess youre lucky Polk has such lax hiring standards.

    Josh: Damn skippy!

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    Hmm.. I didnt know that.

    Ive always played it safe anyway and tuned my gain to where the h/u distorts at the 3/4 mark anyway. Ive got mine now where it is pretty stout with windows rolled up at 19-20 and windows down stout at 23-25. I usually dont get louder than that. Heavy Metal starts to hurt after certain volume levels! :D
    polkaudio sound quality competitor since 2005
    MECA SQ Rookie of the Year 06 ~ MECA State Champ 06,07,08,11 ~ MECA World Finals 2nd place 06,07,08,09
    08 Car Audio Nationals 1st ~ 07 N Georgia Nationals 1st ~ 06 Carl Casper Nationals 1st ~ USACi 05 Southeast AutumnFest 1st

    polkaudio SR6500 --- polkaudio MM1040 x2 -- Pioneer P99 -- Rockford Fosgate P1000X5D

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