Computer Speaker Idea...

[VR3]

Using 50 cent Parts Express Full Rangers here...

Was going to do it so that I don't have to cut out a hole, just use corner spacers (as in the picture below) and screw into them, paint the mounting bracket black, etc...

The speckled gray is polyfill, was just going to pack it down with it

roughly 4" or so wide, 5" or so tall, 4" or so deep, etc - compact, just computer speakers...

Will be using wood laying around the shop...

Thoughts? Suggestions?

I was going to order both types of full rangers (2 each) - what are the differences?

[Mjr7531]

Yeah, make sure those 50 cent drivers are magnetically shielded, or you'll have to shell out a lot more money than you'd like to buy a new monitor.

[VR3]

According to PE they are!

"Fully-Shielded Package" - PE's descript of the FR driver

Also advertise it as perfect for DIY center channels...

[Mazeroth]

I have 96 of these drivers in my basement for a few projects. The only difference between the two is that one is darker than the other. They are pretty impressive for a full-ranger, but they have a NASTY peak at 7khz. They're extremely hard to mount due to having a wierd back. It's hard to explain but if you were to order them you'd see. Good idea you have, but since these don't have conventional speaker backs I don't think it will work :(

What I'm going to do is get 1/8" mdf and cut out holes the same size as the front ring, and rear mount them. Then get a piece of 3/4" MDF, cut out holes, and glue the 1/8th to the 3/4". This will make mounting them a breeze and make them look a LOT better.

If you want a cool cheap speaker idea, pick up some of these Onkyo 3/4" tweeters. I got 128 of them :)

http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showd...number=269-702

Cut the phase shield off the front of them and they sound GREAT. With their weird shape you will be better off doing the same mounting method as I described above. I'd cross them over between 3.5khz and 5khz. For a cheaper crossover do 3.5khz and a first order. Total speaker cost for the pair, with drivers, wood, and crossovers should be under $10. Beat that! :D

[VR3]

Hmm, I looked at it --

The back seems open...so can you try to explain what is strange about them?

Thanks

Thanks for the link to the Oinker...I saw that earlier...interesting indeed...may order some of them too

Thanks for the reply

[VR3]

Just in case the folks at home dont know what were talking about....

[Mazeroth]

Underneath those tabs and all the way around the woofer there's a metal ring that extends down about 1/16th of an inch and out about 1/8th of an inch. They are the hardest driver I've ever had to mount. If you're trying for a front mount your holes have to be exact down to the 1/32 of an inch, no joke, otherwise you'll have an air gap that you'll have to fill with something.

Do yourself a favor and get some. I bought them up when they dropped down to $0.69/each. Now that they're down to $0.49 so it's a no-brainer. If you really want to get good at speaker building there's no better way than to experiment with these gems.

Also, let me try to find the thread about how to mount them on diyaudio.com. One guy mentioned what I said above and everyone else was like, "Duh, why didn't we do that!" :D

EDIT:

Here's the link:

http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showt...threadid=42150

[VR3]

Well, as you can tell (I dont quite understand what everyone is talking about with the ring) -

However, with that computer speaker design, I won't be cutting the hole.

I will be building a cube mounting with corner blocks to mount on to...

No circle, how do you think that would work out?

Thanks for the links & advice, very helpful...

[Mazeroth]

That's a tough call. The box will have to be very precise to get it to fit. As I mentioned before, cough up a few more bucks and go all out! :D

Also, if you want the speaker of a lifetime for next to nothing, check into building a line array with these drivers; that's what I'm going to be doing. Do a search for "line array" on that page I gave you, under the Loudspeaker forum and grab some popcorn...it's a good LONG read

[VR3]

lol - no line array...

LOL - an idea though

I want to try to do this without spending more than 1 dollar in drivers ;)

Going to find like scrap/free wood laying around the shop to do this...

I figure I will make the cube 3.75" width, height, since that is like 1/16" bigger than the cutout hole they recomend

Then look at what kind of corner blocks I need to mount to and cut them to size and boom

What ya think?

Thanks for the help thus far

[Mazeroth]

How many speakers are you going to order? If just 2, the shipping is going to kill the price per speaker ratio.

Sounds like a plan. I'd build the boxes after you get the speakers. And yes, for $1 per pair, NOTHING can touch them :D

[VR3]

I was going to over 12 of them and some other things i need for my current project...

[VR3]

I believe I will be using like 1/2" or 3/4" or 1" Pine wood...

If it is solid wood, i will probally clear coat these or just paint them black...hmm

[gatemplin]

I dont quite understand what everyone is talking about with the ring

The driver has to be mounted from behind the baffle in order to get a good seal. You will see when you get them. Otherwise you might have to goop them in or something.

[Mjr7531]

Hmm... Sid, I think you're onto something with these super cheap drivers, where's the link to them? I couldn't find em' at all at Parts Express.

[VR3]

http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showd...number=269-570

[jcaut]

They're generally called "NSB's" on the PE forum, if you want to search for projects using them. I've got several. That nasty peak around 7Khz really spoils them for serious full-range use. But then, you're not gonna do better for $0.50.

Tang Band makes several 3-4 inchers that will do full range pretty respectably, but they cost quite a bit more.

Jason

[VR3]

There are some Logitech computer speakers that sport the Tang Band drivers, 15 dollar drivers in a 100-120 dollar computer speakers

[VR3]

I have way to much time on my hands :p

Bipolar tower :D

And no, I dont plan on making that, there aint no way that would sound good...lol

[LethalLee]

What amp are u gunna use for the computer project vr3mex? U planning on 2.1? My project is to amp the 2inch polk audio speakers that came on my hp comp.

[VR3]

I will be using a Marantz Integrated, 10, 20 watts or so

[VR3]

They arrived...

Man this driver is...ummm....small...LOL

I am not use to all these small drivers (I have 12 of them here in my room...lol), never owned anything smaller than a 5.25!

But I see the ring, and I can work around it...

no problemo

Thanks for the heads up!

And FWIW - these drivers are not built bad or anything like I had kinda expected...

I mean they look cheap, they arnt LIGHT LIGHT -- they cant be bent in the frame, pretty solid - best 50 cents I ever spent...

I guess Parts Express seperates the men from the boys, men go to parts express, and boys go to the toy machines!

[Mjr7531]

Darn you Sid, you gave me the DIY bug now. :p
Tell us how they sound, I want to know, I'm thinking of building a system from those speakers.

[VR3]

May be a week or so...

I will begin constructing the computer speakers in the next few days though...will keep you posted! :D

[jcaut]

Just another FYI..

There has been some discussion about improving that breakup peak ~7kHz by modifying or replacing the dustcap in the center of the speaker. I don't have a link and I can't remember where I read it, but someone had done some pretty extensive experimenting with them and reported decent success. For 50 cents a pop, it might be worth a shot.

Jason

Edit: I think that modification I mentioned turned out to be more applicable to using them crossed-over to a tweeter, since if you manage to squelch that peak, you probably also kill most of the higher frequency output that would allow them to be used as a full-range driver. Another FYI: Check out PE 275-030 for a nice little $5 tweeter.

[VR3]

There is a modification that has been done to the dust cap though, like a 1/8" or 1/4" hole...

supposidly helps with excursion..etc

Today, I have both pieced together, one with screws, nails, glue

And the other one only with nails, I will put some screws in it and seal the seams tommorow...

These things are alot bigger than I imagined

There are some blow outs Oink tweets I might look in to...

Right now, I want to try to stick to the full range driver only......

[VR3]

I just plugged *one* up, because I only have one here...

But the design is a MAJOR success, infact if I cover up the huge port, the entire speaker sounds horrible...bloated, no highs..u name it

The high end is relatively smooth...etc

The design worked REALLY well, IMO...

Cant really tell till I get the other one done, etc - but I am impressed

[VR3]

Russ!!

How hard would it be to pull off a 4 driver bipolar speaker?

2 Front, 2 Rear...

??

Curious minds want to know :D

Thanks --

[VR3]

Disclaimer -

1) These are small speakers, 8" tall, 5.75" wide, 5" deep
2) They cost me aproximately 50 cents to build
3) When reading the below, keep in mind 1 and 2 throughout the entire post!!!!!!!

Ok, these speakers sound...great.

Their bass reponse is limited, DUH, however it is actually pretty darn DECENT, much*** better than the Bose cubes. The highs are very smooth and detailed.

There are some instances when the soundstage extends far out from the sides, and even to the back of the room! However the instruments are definetely limited from speaker to speaker, however they have quite the center stage...

The mids are silky smooth, however I can definetely hear the 7khz spike...

Great computer speakers, they didnt turn out as quite as I had hoped with the whole cap ordeal, but if they turned out perfect...it wouldnt have the DIY appeal! Very nice!

:p

I recomend anyone that dosnt want to spend alot on HTIB or something to make you something -- the above design is EASY to do and works well

Make the square opening 3.75x3.75, and just use paper to cut 'spacers' so you can transfer it to the appropriate size..

Also, mount the speaker in a diamond...almost is a perfect drop in, although sealing caulk will be a must

the brace/port is 3" deep, the speaker itself is 4"

the port opening is 1" tall

All measurements are internal...

Have fun!

[VR3]

Pictures have arrived...