SDA SRS 1.2TL Side Panel Removal

[DarqueKnight]

The method of attachment for the SDA SRS 1.2TL side panels has been somewhat of a mystery. One owner said that it took him a whole week to figure it out, but he would not tell us how to do it unless we sent him a special request. Some owners, for fear of breaking something, will not venture an investigation.

While it is commonly thought that the SRS side panels are glued on (like the smaller SDA 1C and SDA 2B), they are actually held in place by trelocks similar to the ones that hold the grille panels in place. The side panel trelocks are different in that they are ribbed and fit much tighter. I used a 1-1/2 inch metal putty spatula to gently pry off the side panel.



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Figure 1. Side view of SDA SRS 1.2TL.



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Figure 2. SDA SRS 1.2TL with side panel off.



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Figure 3. SDA SRS 1.2TL side panel trelocks.

The SDA SRS 1.2TL side panels are held in place with eight ribbed trelocks.



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Figure 4. SDA SRS 1.2TL side panel front.

The wood strip is oak veneer over MDF. The side panel frame is a composite wood material like the grille frame. The side panel fabric is stretched over the frame and then the wood strip is laid over the fabric and set into a notch in the frame. The wood strip is secured with nails from the back side.



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Figure 5. SDA SRS 1.2TL side panel rear.

I do not know the reason for the rectangular cutouts in the side panel frame. This makes the side panel fabric more vulnerable to damage. Perhaps there is some sonic benefit. Perhaps it was a weight saving measure. The panels weigh 11.5 pounds each.



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Figure 6. SDA SRS 1.2TL side panel rear.

The wood strip insert on the front is held in place by tiny finishing nails (arrows). There are countersunk screw holes near the nails, but they are not used. Cost saving perhaps? Maybe Polk originally used screws but switched to nails. If you ever have to or want to replace the side panel fabric, it will be a lot of fun prying off those nailed up wood strips!

[bikezappa]

Excellent post!

The details explained.

Why did you do this?

Are you going to replace the side fabric?

Those cuts outs on the side panel are funny. Saving weight? I don't think so.

Peter

[BlueMDPicker]

Thanks Raife - you're the best!

[F1nut]

Very interesting. Raife, do you know how the 2.3TL side panels are attached?

[DarqueKnight]

Originally posted by bikezappa
Why did you do this? Are you going to replace the side fabric?

A forum member recently asked me about the removal procedure for the 1.2TL side panels.

I considered replacing the side fabric when I was modifying my 1.2TL's. I decided against it because it really was not necessary. Another factor was that I did not want to risk damaging the nailed on wood strips during removal.

Originally posted by F1nit
....do you know how the 2.3TL side panels are attached?

No. See if the side panel will separate from the cabinet a little bit by using finger pressure alone. If it does, it is probably attached with trelocks. I would be surprised if the 2.3TL attachment system is different from the 1.2TL, but then again, considering all the SDA variations, I wouldn't be too surprised if it was different.

[SDA SRS 1.2]

Raife, you are a BRAVE man! Great photos - Thanks! :)

Robbie

[trubluluc]

As always, excellant technical insight into the "holy grail" of speakers.

-Luc

[dorokusai]

Great post.

The SDA1C panel removal and/ or replacement is not for the faint of heart. It's a little tricky but not "difficult".

You would be suprised to find out that the side panels on the lesser models is basically cardboard....though there may be a fancy name for it.

I have "repaired" all of the panels on my 1C's due to the "bowing" of the ends which is common.

The process for replacing the SDA1C panels would be:

Remove the side panel with a METAL putty knife, by prying along the side slowly, and downwards. Working from top to bottom. Most of the Polk glue was used in the middle, so have a putty knife with some length.

You will eventually have a loose panel, with residual glue on both the panel and the speaker. This should be removed from both.

It's OLD glue so don't be afraid to be rough. I found it a little difficult to remove until I had enough beer in me. It will be covered again so don't worry about small scratches in the speakers' side veneer.

Once you have removed the old glue, clean the surface with a damp cloth, and let dry. There really is no need to prep the surface as the removal of the old glue will mar the surface quite sufficiently.

If you are replacing the cloth on the sides, that's up to you, but at least check for loose spots, and re-attach with hot glue, and your finger. You need to smooth it out. Don't let the glue bead, as it will affect re-attachment of the panel.

I used "Liquid Nails for Paneling" for re-attachment. Use common sense, don't overdo it with the glue as you will find it impossible to remove any adhesive from the cloth if you mess up.

Attach one at a time, and rest a GENEROUS amount of weight on both ends, each side and the center, overnight until it has cured. This is a two day process....get me?

This is what I did to mine, sorry no pictures, but I'm sure it's enough for you intellectual types.

[BlueMDPicker]

Originally posted by DarqueKnight
A forum member recently asked me about the removal procedure for the 1.2TL side panels.

I considered replacing the side fabric when I was modifying my 1.2TL's. I decided against it because it really was not necessary. Another factor was that I did not want to risk damaging the nailed on wood strips during removal.

Emboldened by the knowledge you've shared, I popped the side panels off my SDA SRS's this evening. When I replace the grille cloth (I'm ordering the Ponte you used as well), I'm now going to replace all the fabric. I took my Dremel to a couple of the nail heads and ground them right off in less than 5 minutes, so I don't think it will be too hard to remove the strips. I'll use the headless nails as guides and reattach the strips with countersunk screws.

Of course, one thing leads to another. I may as well refinish the walnut strips and end caps while I have the cabinets stripped. I've already replaced the tweeters and, again thanks to what you've shared here previously, have the new crossover caps (Solen PB's), resistors (Mills MR-12's) and Vampire binding posts headed this way from Parts Connexion. In a couple of weeks, I'll have a better than new pair of SDA SRS's for a total expenditure of slightly less than $1700. Thanks again to you, and everyone here, for sharing their knowledge.

Mike

[hoosier21]

Originally posted by F1nut
Very interesting. Raife, do you know how the 2.3TL side panels are attached?

A buddy here at work got a pair of 2.3tl from me, he is in the middle of redoing the cloth, we removed the side panel, I was expecting the same as the pictures Raife posted, but I was wrong. The side panels of glued on just like the 1Cs and 2Bs.

[hoosier21]

Also, "solid hardwood tops", nope

[hoosier21]

oops here it is

[WilliamM2]

I also had to glue the side panels back on my SDA-1C's. It's a design flaw in my opinion, the glue would stick forever if they had not put the vinyl veneer on the sides underneath, and just glued wood to wood.

I used liquid nails to reglue, but even that says it is NOT for use on vinyl. Wonder how long it will last? I thought about peeling a section of the vinyl off underneath for a better bond, but laziness won out, and I skipped it.

[F1nut]

Thanks for the pic and info. It's as I quessed, glued on.

[DarqueKnight]

Originally posted by hoosier21
Also, "solid hardwood tops", nope

The original SDA SRS had solid oak (or walnut) end caps made of laminated boards that were prone to cracking along the lamination seams. The bottom end caps were particularly prone to cracking.

The picture below shows the inside edge of my left SRS speaker. You can see the differences in edge grain patterns along the side. These caps were made of five narrow laminated boards. The arrow points to a crack that was filled in with wood filler. The crack only went about two inches inward across the top of the cap.

[DarqueKnight]

After all the problems with cracking top and bottom caps of the SDA SRS, Polk started making end caps out of a solid MDF panel that was veneered on both sides and edge banded.

The picture below is of the inside edge of my left SDA SRS 1.2TL speaker. Notice the long continuous grain pattern along the side and front.

[DarqueKnight]

The top and bottom end caps are easily removed after accessing the retaining nuts by removing the top two drivers and passive radiator.

[DarqueKnight]

The picture below shows the underside of a SDA SRS 1.2TL top cap and the retaining nuts and washers.

[michael_w]

Thanks for sharing it with us. Its always cool to see how brand name speakers are made.

[DarqueKnight]

I'm thinking about having some glossy black lacquer end caps and side panels made. The end result would look similar to this:

[Lasareath]

I'm thinking about having some glossy black lacquer end caps and side panels made. The end result would look similar to this:

Raife,

Did you ever get this done?, I was just thinking the same thing. I have cats and I'm not sure if I want to redo the grille material.

I just took the left panel off the left speaker and it says 4/24/89

Las

[DarqueKnight]

Not yet.

[DarqueKnight]

Not yet. It's on my ever increasing "to do" list.

[Deadof_knight]

Oh man redoing the side panels to glossy black laquer SWWWEETT!! That is going to be THE MOD for ME yes..... The picture of those Mirages OH yea make the 1.2 tls to look very simular. I think they need to be in the tasteful babes thread !

One small problem I really need to be home to do it .....

Think about it the tops sides and bottoms are all now glossy black !!!

Beautiful !!!

[Lasareath]

Not yet. It's on my ever increasing "to do" list.

I was thinking about contacting a custom wood working shop and have them make up new side panels and new tops and bottoms out of some exotic wood.

Like Cocobola Rosewood or some other exotic wood as found @ this page:

http://www.edromanguitars.com/newsit.../wood/main.htm

Las

[F1nut]

The originals are veneer over MDF. If you plan on having new pieces made I would suggest going the veneer over MDF route as it's considerably more stable.

[Lasareath]

The originals are veneer over MDF. If you plan on having new pieces made I would suggest going the veneer over MDF route as it's considerably more stable.

Yeah, I think it's going on my list to do too. Right now I want to concentrate on getting rdo0198's, I need 3 mid-bass driver because two have pushed in cones and one has a tear in the surround.

Today I am working on the grille materials on the side panels. Should I add some sort of glue when I put them back on?, like maybe gorilla glue?

Also, Can I sand down the veneer that's on the top, bottom and side wood pieces?

I woudl love to get rid of this walnut color and get the true wood color. Anybody have any thoughts about this?

TIA,

Lasareath

[F1nut]

What's wrong with the color of the walnut veneer, that's what walnut is suppose to look like. Walnut is a man's wood, be proud of it.

Glue what, the cloth to the panels or the the panels to the case? Either way, don't use Gorilla glue, awful stuff.

Sanding is for amateurs, don't do it.

[Lasareath]

What's wrong with the color of the walnut veneer, that's what walnut is suppose to look like. Walnut is a man's wood, be proud of it.

Glue what, the cloth to the panels or the the panels to the case? Either way, don't use Gorilla glue, awful stuff.

Sanding is for amateurs, don't do it.

I like the color of my 1C's, they are blond in color, they look very nice.

I dont like this 19 year old drab walnut color.

should I apply a small drop of glue to the trelocks?

there looks like there was some when they originally built the speakers.

Las

[Lasareath]

What's wrong with the color of the walnut veneer, that's what walnut is suppose to look like. Walnut is a man's wood, be proud of it. Sanding is for amateurs, don't do it.

I took the top plate off the right one and sanded down the underside and I think it looks really good. It's nice and blond. I can put a coating of varnish on it and I think agaisnt the black grille material it will look very sweet.

My other reason for sanding is that each top plate has a little nick on them and one of the side wood strips had a big stratch in it.

Las