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  1. #451

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    Nope! But then again, Mom & Dad ignored that item on my Christmas wish list anyway.:D

    Quote Originally Posted by steveinaz View Post
    sheesh....girls. What, you never tried a halogen bulb in your easy-bake oven?
    Sunfire TGP III PrePro, Sunfire Cinema Grand Signature 405wpc 5 ch. Amp, Rotel RCD-1072 CDP, Onkyo TA2600 Tape Deck, Pioneer Elite 47-A DVD, Sony 32" XBR TV, Polk RTA-8T Main Speakers, Boston VR-920 Center Channel, Boston PV-600 Subwoofer, Polk DSW 400 Subwoofer, Polk FXi-3 Surround Speakers

  2. #452
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    Here is my new cute little monoblocks.They are Hypex UCD 180's and amazingly each of these tiny Class D modules is capable of 100 watts into 8ohm's and 180 watts into 4ohm's.
    The pic doesn't show the power supply which consists of a big Toroidal transformer and two big filter capacitors.They are enviromently friendly with a claimed efficiency of 90% which is double the norm for a class A/B design.I can't wait to get them assembled and have a listen but they will likely end up powering a Mid Bass Module I'm working on.
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    Last edited by GV#27; 09-25-2007 at 07:31 PM.

  3. #453

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    Here's a grab shot of the innards of a Fisher X-100 I recently re-hab'bed for a local. Parts from Jim McShane and Antique Electronics Supply.

    Cathode biased, push-pull 7189s. Very sweet sounding amplifier; glorious midrange (maybe even a tad nicer than my HF-81).



    all the best,
    mrh

  4. #454

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    And this is Amber. Amber doesn't mind going about topless, apparently...


    all the best,
    mrh

  5. #455

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    Finally... here (I hope) is my winter project.

    all the best,
    mrh

  6. #456
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    That Amber pre looks to be a quality unit how old is it?It appears to have all discrete transistor gain stages,polystyrene caps and a full ground plane on the top side of the circuit board.Impressive.

  7. #457

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    We are men, therefore we disassemble.

    Source: Squeezebox Touch/CIA Power Supply
    DAC: Benchmark DAC/PRE
    Linestage: Placette RVC Passive
    Power Amp: Parasound HCA-1500A
    Speakers: Harbeth Compact 7ES-3 Monitor
    Subwoofer: SVS PB12-NSD

  8. #458

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    That Amber pre looks to be a quality unit how old is it?It appears to have all discrete transistor gain stages,polystyrene caps and a full ground plane on the top side of the circuit board.Impressive.
    The Amber is from the early 80's I believe. Company was in Charlottesville, VA. I rembember the name, but otherwise know nothing about the company or its (other) products.

    I got it as a package deal with a pair of small Ohm Walsh speakers (I am STILL not sure which model they are) and a Flame Linear 200B power amp. The price was right (I only wanted the speakers).

    The preamp had very noisy pots and switches; photos were taken during a DeOxit session. It does seem to be pretty nice. It has variable (MM) cartridge loading but is otherwise pretty short on bells and whistles. Sounds perfectly OK, 'specially for the price (basically $40 of what I spent).

    It has since been donated to a friend in need on the Left Coast.

    EDIT: For the record, and FWIW, a couple photos of one of the Ohms. I guess this is still roughly on topic for this thread, since the grilles are off :-)


    Last edited by mhardy6647; 09-26-2007 at 12:11 PM.
    all the best,
    mrh

  9. #459

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    Default Parasound P/LD-2000

    Ok, I've wanted one of these line stage preamps for at least a year. Finally got one yesterday. During all that time, I was never able to find any "gut" shots of this pre. What a shame, because its beautiful (IMHO), especially if you appreciate OVERKILL construction! I thought the Sony E80ES was pretty well built, but this think just puts it to shame! Its hard to get a grasp of this thing by photo. Its huge! Not tall, but its as deep as my 7.1 Denon receiver. Its heavy too! Weighing in at over 20lbs, and that's not because of thick metal casing, its all the guts!

    Arse Shot! I only wish they had used the same quality connectors on all inputs. That might be a mod down the road. High quality balanced sockets.



    Most of what you are seeing here is power supply! Those are all Nichicon Great Supply or Blackgate F caps. Something like 80,000uf capacitance, for a preamp! Most HT receivers don't even come close to half that!


    This is one of the gain stage boards. There are two identical, stacked on top of each other. You can see individual gold plated relays for each input/output leg, something like 24 in all. Again, the caps are Nichicon Great Supply and Blackgate. You can also see the high quality, shielded cable used to run the signals up to the volume/balance controls. Over on the left side, the headphone circuit is comprised of nice AD and BB opamps. The Headphone circuit has 2 gain stages, separate for each channel. You can also see rather large heat sinks for the gain Mosfets pairs. That really surprised me. They shouldn't get that hot, but they are running totally in class A and I guess John Curl wanted to make sure they had near perfect thermal stability.



    Final shot. Overview from the side. At used prices, you definetely get your money's worth out of these preamps. Some would argue that simpler is better on a preamp, but I like overkill.



    Soundwise, I haven't had enough listening yet. I listened for a couple hours last night through my Senn 580 headphones, and I can say, its the best I've ever heard though the headphones. Over the weekend, I'll get a chance to form a better opinion. I can say so far, its dead quiet, and absolutely no input cross talk. Each input is totally isolated. It does have quiet a bit more gain than my Sony, so that's taking a little getting used to. I've also switched to using an external phono stage. The seller gave me a Project Phono Box Mk2 along with the deal. It sounds pretty nice, but its not as quiet (on MC) as the Sony's built in phono. I will probably upgrade that at some point (soon).
    Last edited by billbillw; 09-28-2007 at 01:31 PM.

  10. #460

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    I still have wood over the Fisher gear..


    ttthhanks...!!
    Cary SLP-98L F1 DC Pre Amp (Jag Blue)
    Parasound HCA-3500
    Cary Audio V12 amp (Jag Red)
    Polk Audio Xm Reciever (Autographed by THE MAN Himself)
    Magnum Dynalab MD-102 Analog Tuna
    Jolida JD-100 CDP
    Polk Audio LSi9 Speaks (ebony)
    SVS PC-Ultra Sub
    AQ Bedrock Speaker Cables (Bi-Wired)
    MIT Shotgun S1 I/C`s
    AQ Black Thunder Sub Cables
    PS Audio Plus Power Cords
    Magnum Dynalab ST-2 FM Antenna
    Sanus Cherry wood Speak Stands
    Adona AV45CS3 / 3 Tier Rack (Black /Gold)



  11. #461
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    Default Nad T 773

    The trannies are piggybacked! What a beast!
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  12. #462

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    Quote Originally Posted by hearingimpared View Post
    The trannies are piggybacked! What a beast!
    NAD has certainly made a very good impression in this thread. ;)

  13. #463

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    NAD has certainly made a very good impression in this thread.
    Some folks are always impressed by big NADs.

    sorry, sorry... someone had to say it...
    all the best,
    mrh

  14. #464
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    Hello,
    The Amber pre-amp should sound good. I used to sell the Amber Series 70 amplifier and it was excellent sounding. I didn't have much experience with the pre-amp, but should be good. The designers may have taught electronics at U of VA, I seem to remember.
    Enjoy, Ken

  15. #465
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kenneth Swauger View Post
    Hello,
    The Amber pre-amp should sound good. I used to sell the Amber Series 70 amplifier and it was excellent sounding. I didn't have much experience with the pre-amp, but should be good. The designers may have taught electronics at U of VA, I seem to remember.
    Enjoy, Ken
    I remember them both, preamp wasn't bad, a real sleeper, but Amber amp was very special, for the money.

  16. #466
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    Quote Originally Posted by mhardy6647 View Post
    Here's a grab shot of the innards of a Fisher X-100 I recently re-hab'bed for a local. Parts from Jim McShane and Antique Electronics Supply.

    Cathode biased, push-pull 7189s. Very sweet sounding amplifier; glorious midrange (maybe even a tad nicer than my HF-81).



    Nice Work!

  17. #467

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    Quote Originally Posted by Kenneth Swauger View Post
    Hello,
    The Amber pre-amp should sound good. I used to sell the Amber Series 70 amplifier and it was excellent sounding. I didn't have much experience with the pre-amp, but should be good. The designers may have taught electronics at U of VA, I seem to remember.
    Enjoy, Ken
    Your recollection seems plausible, sir.

    I donated Amber to a West Coast Audio Asylum member whose (much higher end) preamp had a sudden and unexpected meltdown. Based on several hours on a Flame Linear 200 and my little Ohm Walshes (unknown models), though, Amber got the job done.

    all the best,
    mrh

  18. #468

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    Nice Work!
    Thanks... it's a nice amp. I think its owner is pretty pleased with it.
    all the best,
    mrh

  19. #469
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    Hello,
    I've been looking at the bottom of my Fisher 500C recently, replacing the filter caps and filament selenium rectifier with a kit I bought. I have to remove some capacitor mounting brackets and terminal strips to allow for the new board to fit underneath the bottom plate. I had to take out the chassis fuse holder and epoxy a fuse holder to the inside chassis itself. I used a Dremel with a cutoff disc to cut off the terminal strips and capacitor bracket that was riveted to the chassis. Now I have to install the new circuit board and run the connecting wires to the places in the circuit where they need to go. There's a tremendous amount of point-to-point wiring, good grief somebody probably made $2.00 an hour in those days. Quite a process.
    Ken

  20. #470

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    The good thing about the Fisher receivers, though, is that there's a fair amount of room below decks and things are neatly and thoughfully laid out. Compare a Fisher 400 or 500C to, say a Pioneer SX-34 (or its clone, the Allied/Knight 333) or even a Sansui 1000A. All of these units were roughly contemporaries.

    That Fisher amp was a little crowded around the outputs. The receivers, though, are quite pleasant to work on IMNSHO.

    The output zone of a Fisher 400:


    The same neighborhood on a Knight 333:


    Replacing the coupling caps in the latter was a pain in the tuchus
    all the best,
    mrh

  21. #471
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    Hello,
    Things got a little tight under there, here's the link to the circuit board:
    http://www.triodeelectronics.com/sds500cbrdprts.html
    I discovered a neat trick that someone could market. If you look on the photograph you have for the receiver look at the shielded wires near the right had side of the photo. When I am tinning wires I put the wire between the shielding and the metal part of the chassis. It is a great way to support a wire while you work on it. Someone should make something similar as a great accessory wire holder for soldering. A platform with a spring connected at two points that can hold a wire.
    Ken

  22. #472

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    Great tip!

    I use one of those "third hand" thingies with articulated alligator clips, Ken. They're still "available everywhere", maybe even Radio Shack (which is where I think I got mine).

    http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showd...number=360-670



    The plastic magnifier is cheesy, but the rest of it is quite helpful.
    all the best,
    mrh

  23. #473
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    Hello,
    Oh, yes, had those for many years. There's a variation on that available from Micromart that has four arms and a different kind of base that has a threaded locking mechanism. With this one you can attach it to the sides of the component's chassis then use the four arms to hold various parts steady. So if you tend to work with the chassis upright you can attach the holder firmly to the unit itself. When I'm joining two wires I like to have both wires held in place then that frees up both hands to heat and hold the solder.
    I bought replacement end caps for the Fisher knobs, new front panel lamps and am considering a new cabinet from the Fisher Doc to really get it looking spiffy. I've cleaned and polished the faceplate with Flitz and have to get the on/of selector working. I might have to take it apart and clean the wiper arm, not looking forward to trying that.
    Then I can get back to the Altec.
    Ken

  24. #474

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    Did you add cathode resistors?
    all the best,
    mrh

  25. #475
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    Hello,
    Not yet, the original issue was a "something's burning" smell coming from the receiver. I suspected the selenium rectifier so that was my beginning point. Thanks for reminding me about the 10 Ohm resistors. I believe VTV offers a circuit upgrade kit for coupling caps, etc. This receiver is used with a pair of Spica TC50 on Chicago stands with a XRt12 tuner. My wife has a small office in the basement and this is her audio source. I used to have a CAL CD player with it, but the XM tuner has replaced it.
    Ken

  26. #476

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    Unless you really don't feel like the doing the legwork, I'd recommend sourcing all the parts yourself. PM me if you want more info.

    Back to the carnality...
    all the best,
    mrh

  27. #477
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    Hello,
    You've been PM'd sir.
    Thanks, Ken

  28. #478

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    Monster Power Center HTPS 7000 MKII
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  29. #479

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    Here's the guts of my McIntosh MX115. :D
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    "He who fights with monsters should look to it that he himself does not become a monster. And when you gaze long into an abyss the abyss also gazes into you." Friedrich Nietzsche

  30. #480

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    No top view of the MX-115? :-(
    all the best,
    mrh

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