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  1. #211

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    Univera - Yes, that's a very nice amplifier. It's a classic example of why a non-toroid transformer can be extremely effective. The toroid is a better winding and much more flexible, but it doesn't mean it's the best.

  2. #212

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    The CR-240 is a perfectly decent little receiver, as was its entry-level predecessor, the CR-220.
    Attached Images  
    all the best,
    mrh

  3. #213

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    Quote Originally Posted by dorokusai
    Univera - Yes, that's a very nice amplifier. It's a classic example of why a non-toroid transformer can be extremely effective. The toroid is a better winding and much more flexible, but it doesn't mean it's the best.
    Tell me more, i.e. explain the difference/benefits/of a torroid vs. whatever is in this retro beast. You can't just make a statement without "esplanin."

    BTW, when I said most would agree this was an awesome thread, I was referring to you starting the whole ass/guts deal, not tooting my horn for posting a few pics! Nonetheless, the 7600 is a badass.
    UNIVERA
    Historic Charleston SC

    2 Channel:
    SDA-SRS's RDO tweets
    Biamped Anthem 2 SE's w/1970's NOS Siemens CCA's
    Anthem Pre 2L w/E.harmonix platinum matched 6H23's
    CDP- NAD C 542



    HT setup:
    AVR: NAD T 773
    Rears: Polk LC80i
    DVD: Toshiba 3109 dual tray
    Subs: Velodyne and M&K
    T.V.: Sony KDL-52XBR4 w/Vans Evers Clean Line Jr.
    Conditioner: Panamax M5100EX

    [B]Master Bedroom Sony 40KDL-XBR3

    "I love it when a plan comes together." Hannibal Smith, The A-Team

  4. #214

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    Check out the guts on this Marantz pre-amp: pretty impressive to my little mind...http://cgi.ebay.com/Vintage-Marantz-...QQcmdZViewItem
    UNIVERA
    Historic Charleston SC

    2 Channel:
    SDA-SRS's RDO tweets
    Biamped Anthem 2 SE's w/1970's NOS Siemens CCA's
    Anthem Pre 2L w/E.harmonix platinum matched 6H23's
    CDP- NAD C 542



    HT setup:
    AVR: NAD T 773
    Rears: Polk LC80i
    DVD: Toshiba 3109 dual tray
    Subs: Velodyne and M&K
    T.V.: Sony KDL-52XBR4 w/Vans Evers Clean Line Jr.
    Conditioner: Panamax M5100EX

    [B]Master Bedroom Sony 40KDL-XBR3

    "I love it when a plan comes together." Hannibal Smith, The A-Team

  5. #215

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    Default Late to the party, but here's another one

    My Sony TA-F333ESL, Not your average Sony junk.

    Very much the same as the F808ES that DarqueKnight posted earlier, but I like my wood side panels, they matchy my ST-S550ES tuner!

    DarqueKnight, how do you deal with the heat that your 808 makes? These things are so biased to class A, that they put out a ton of heat.

    Nice clean front.

    Drop down panel hides the seldom used controls.

    Ass shot, notice pre-outs, worldwide voltage too.

    Rarely seen underbelly shot. Easy access if/when repair is needed. Me like MOSFETs! Notice the thick G-base that everything is mounted too. G for Gibralter, the base is a non-magnetic composite of polyester, carbon, and calcium. Like a Rock. The base alone probably weighs 15-20 lbs.

    And finally the guts, twin 18,000uF caps, plus twin 8200uF caps. That is for Sony's STD, (Spontaneous Twin Drive) which has separeate power supplies for the volatge amps (Class-A) and the Power Amp (Class-B).

    Sony still cared about vinyl at this time. This is the phono board. Very nice compared to what most were offering at the time. MM or MC w/adjustable cartridge load.

    This amp is going to be with me for a long time.

  6. #216

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    Bill, nice work. I can see you've done these types of shots before. . . very seductive. Start fully dressed with a nice frontal shot and a write-up, then slowly undress and capture pics from different angles, all-the-while continuing to storyboard the whole thing.
    Stereo Rig: Hales Revelation 3, Musical Fidelity CD-Pre 24, Forte Model 3 amp, Lexicon RT-10 SACD, MMF-5 w/speedbox, Forte Model 2 Phono Pre, Cardas Crosslink, APC H15, URC MX-950, Lovan Stand
    Bedroom: Samsung HPR-4252, Toshiba HD-A2, HK 3480, Signal Cable, AQ speaker cable, Totem Dreamcatchers, SVS PB10-NSD, URC MX-850

  7. #217

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    Quote Originally Posted by AndyGwis
    Bill, nice work. I can see you've done these types of shots before. . . very seductive. Start fully dressed with a nice frontal shot and a write-up, then slowly undress and capture pics from different angles, all-the-while continuing to storyboard the whole thing.
    Thanks Andy.
    I took all the internal shots the first night I received this amp (a rainy night in June). It had 15+ years of dust/grime inside, so I did a full in/out cleaning of all the boards, pots, switches, etc. Lots of Deoxit and ProGold. Adjusted the Bias and DC offest too. No photos until I had a clean subject.
    I did all this before I even hooked it to my system. I'm glad it worked;)
    She cleaned up pretty well. Narry a scratch on the front panel. The fully dressed photos were shot a few days later with the use of a tripod and no flash. God, I'm such a dork.

  8. #218

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    Nice looking Sony Bill, surprised me a little.

    Speakers
    Carver Amazing Fronts
    CS400i Center
    RT800i's Rears
    Sub Paradigm Servo 15

    Electronics
    Conrad Johnson PV-5 pre-amp
    Parasound Halo A23
    Pioneer 84TXSi AVR
    Pioneer 79Avi DVD
    Sony CX400 CD changer
    Panasonic 42-PX60U Plasma
    WMC Win7 32bit HD DVR



  9. #219

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    THe old Sony ES stuff is very impressive. THey just don't make em that way any more. Great photos.

  10. #220

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    Mhardy6647-That's some great vintage gear you have there.

  11. #221

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    Thanks, but most of it's pretty low-end. I do have a few nicer pieces.
    all the best,
    mrh

  12. #222

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    Default Odyssey Stratos

    Just got it today, 180,000 uF cap upgrade.Had to hear one for myself.
    Last edited by george daniel; 03-17-2008 at 06:48 PM.
    JC approves....he told me so. (F-1 nut)

  13. #223

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    That Stratos looks powerful as hell, George. You gotta do a review of it once you've had a listen.
    HT/2-channel Rig: Sony 50 LCD TV; Toshiba HD-A2 DVD player; Emotiva LMC-1 pre/pro; Rogue Audio M-120 monoblocks (modded); Placette RVC; Emotiva LPA-1 amp; Bada HD-22 tube CDP (modded); VMPS Tower II SE (fronts); DIY Clearwave Dynamic 4CC (center); Wharfedale Opus Tri-Surrounds (rear); and VMPS 215 sub

    "God grooves with tubes."

  14. #224

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    Default Marantz DV4200

    Not great pics... but it was 530am when I took the shots

    I could not find the DAC
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  15. #225

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    Default My LG upconverting DVD player

    AN article in HT magazine was talking about an Arcam up-covnerting DVD player which sells for 2K it uses an Zoran Vaddis chip. So does my LG, not the exact chip but if it's good enough for a 2K player the chip type must but great for a 150$ player.
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  16. #226
    Stronzo
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    Default Hk 3470

    This particular recent vintage receiver is a real sleeper of a unit. It's always been used as a back-up amp, but it's sonic performance has often beat out many highly acclaimed seperates that I've owned (to these ears, at least).

  17. #227
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    Default H2O S150 amplifier

    Henry Ho is the type of guy that refuses to skimp on a design. Most class D amp's enable manufactorers to take the cost-effective way out. Henry elects to give the transistors exactly what they need to perform optimally. This is one "liquid" and dynamic sounding amp. Unlike many high powered class D amps I come across, it keeps your foot tappin to the music and doesnt leave a hollow empty void where the emotion should be. Four total power supplies - achieving over a KW of potential output. 200,000 uf of capacitance *per channel*. Consumes about 10 watts in idle. The damping factor is around 1600 or so. Gotta love it.
    Last edited by Zero; 09-16-2006 at 05:48 PM.

  18. #228

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    Quote Originally Posted by Zero
    Henry Ho is the type of guy that refuses to skimp on a design. Most class D amp's enable manufactorers to take the cost-effective way out. Henry elects to give the transistors exactly what they need to perform optimally. This is one "liquid" and dynamic sounding amp. Unlike many high powered class D amps I come across, it keeps your foot tappin to the music and doesnt leave a hollow empty void where the emotion should be. Four total power supplies - achieving over a KW of potential output. 200,000 uf of capacitance *per channel*. Consumes about 10 watts in idle. The damping factor is around 1600 or so. Gotta love it.

    Dammmmn! those are huge. how much does said unit weight? :)

  19. #229

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    Quote Originally Posted by billbillw
    DarqueKnight, how do you deal with the heat that your 808 makes? These things are so biased to class A, that they put out a ton of heat.
    I have quite a few high-biased, hot running, MOSFET amps. As long as I don't put them in a totally enclosed cabinet and leave a few inches of space above them, they won't heat up the room.

  20. #230

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    Quote Originally Posted by DarqueKnight
    I have quite a few high-biased, hot running, MOSFET amps. As long as I don't put them in a totally enclosed cabinet and leave a few inches of space above them, they won't heat up the room.
    I've got mine in a Salamander Synergy (I see you have a couple of those too) with mesh front, closed sides, and open in the back. It definetly heats things up. The heat builds up and "soaks" up through the whole cabinet until my SACD player on top starts to get a little too warm for my taste (it gets somewhat warm on its own).

    To prevent any problems, I mounted a 12cm low speed fan behind the cabinet, gently blowing air across the top of the amp and pushing the heat out the front of the cabinet. It seems to do the trick pretty well because with the fan on, the is no heat buildup in the upper shelves.

  21. #231

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    Another view of the Modwright SWL 9.0SE only with the new Blue Anodized aluminum face plate and the modded power supply to include BlackGate capacitors and a Sowter transformer which is designed to work with both high gain SS or tube amplifiers.
    Attached Images  

  22. #232

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    Default Heat Management

    Quote Originally Posted by billbillw
    I've got mine in a Salamander Synergy (I see you have a couple of those too) with mesh front, closed sides, and open in the back. It definetly heats things up. The heat builds up and "soaks" up through the whole cabinet until my SACD player on top starts to get a little too warm for my taste (it gets somewhat warm on its own).
    In my two channel Salamander cabinet, I replaced the wood side panels with metal mesh panels and I have 13 inches of space above the amps. The back is open. My SACD player and turntable sit on top of the cabinet. Using a couple of $5 digital thermometers purchased from Walmart (shown below), I took some temperature measurements after all components had been turned on and music had been playing at a moderate level (85 dB) for one hour:

    1. Temperature at left amp heat sink: 108 degrees.
    2. Temperature at shelf above left amp: 82 degrees.
    3. Temperature at center section top shelf: 87 degrees.
    4. Temperature at center section second shelf: 85 degrees.
    5. Temperature at center section third shelf: 81 degrees.
    6. Temperature at center section bottom: 83 degrees.
    7. Temperature at right amp heat sink: 109 degrees.
    8. Temperature at shelf above right amp: 82 degrees.
    9. Temperature at top of turntable cover: 71 degrees.
    10. Temperature at top of SACD player case: 81 degrees.
    11. Ambient room temperature: 71 degrees.


    Quote Originally Posted by billbillw
    To prevent any problems, I mounted a 12cm low speed fan behind the cabinet, gently blowing air across the top of the amp and pushing the heat out the front of the cabinet. It seems to do the trick pretty well because with the fan on, the is no heat buildup in the upper shelves.
    I thought about mounting a fan on the wall behind each amp, but after taking the temperature measurements I didn't think fans were needed.
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  23. #233

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    Default McAlister PP150

    Not for the feint of heart :D
    (Relegated to be sold thanks to Paul at Tube Audio Design ;)
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  24. #234

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    Default McAlister ML-33 PreAmp

    Complete with separate power supply and MM phono section.
    (Relegated to be sold thanks to Mr Modwright) ;)
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  25. #235

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    Default

    This is one of the better threads out there right now!

  26. #236

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    with a moniker like 'speakergeek', perhaps you're interested in speaker guts?

    Teh innards of a 1974 Klipsch Cornwall. Stock 'cept for a bunch of "Moretite" rope caulk applied to damp the cast metal MR horn a bit:


    How about an under construction shot of one of my mass loaded, folded TQWT's, built by a friend of mine using Bob Brines' design:

    http://www.geocities.com/rbrines1/Pa...#RS%2040-1354a


    Here's das Ding an sich, with R/S 40-1354 5-1/4" FR driver augmented with a R/S 40-1357 planar tweeter.
    all the best,
    mrh

  27. #237

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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by DarqueKnight
    In my two channel Salamander cabinet, I replaced the wood side panels with metal mesh panels and I have 13 inches of space above the amps. The back is open. My SACD player and turntable sit on top of the cabinet. Using a couple of $5 digital thermometers purchased from Walmart (shown below), I took some temperature measurements after all components had been turned on and music had been playing at a moderate level (85 dB) for one hour:

    1. Temperature at left amp heat sink: 108 degrees.
    2. Temperature at shelf above left amp: 82 degrees.
    3. Temperature at center section top shelf: 87 degrees.
    4. Temperature at center section second shelf: 85 degrees.
    5. Temperature at center section third shelf: 81 degrees.
    6. Temperature at center section bottom: 83 degrees.
    7. Temperature at right amp heat sink: 109 degrees.
    8. Temperature at shelf above right amp: 82 degrees.
    9. Temperature at top of turntable cover: 71 degrees.
    10. Temperature at top of SACD player case: 81 degrees.
    11. Ambient room temperature: 71 degrees.




    I thought about mounting a fan on the wall behind each amp, but after taking the temperature measurements I didn't think fans were needed.
    Man,
    You got sophisticated on my ass! Are those measurements with the setup shown in the photos? I'm assuming so. Nice to have the triple wide setup and the extra top space. Mine is a single, S40, and the top is used by the turntable, so the SACD is stuck inside. If it were on top, I probably wouldn't be concerned at all.

    I can't get that much height above my amp. I'll have to run some temps to know for sure, but but I'd easily say that the Sony is running hotter at the heatsink than your Parasounds. I would guess that the F808ES runs just as hot as my F333ESL. Without the fan, the top of the Sony is borderline too hot to touch! Of course, in Georgia, my ambient room temp is a bit higher too. I probably won't see 71 ambient room temp until October.

    You mentioned mesh sides on your cabinet. Was that a custom thing or did Salamander have something that fit? I might need to consider that. I'm sure it would help. I never really liked the look of the fake wood side panels anyway.

  28. #238

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    I took a few temps today.

    Without the rear fan on, I was reading about 121 F just above the heatsink of the amp after about an hour of play. The shelf above (my tuner) was still only about 85 F. I think this would continue to rise with extended listening w/out the fan. The inside top shelf where the SACD is, was up to about 90 F. Ambient room temp was about 76 F.

    With the fan on, above the heatsink of the amp is only about 89 F. The next shelf with the tuner stays close to room temp. The tuner really doesn't warm up on its own. (that explains why there are no vents!) Funny thing is the shelf around the SACD player still gets up close to about 85 F. I guess the SACD runs a little warm on its own.

    So, the fan definetly helps remove the heat from the amp, which should help with longevity, but it has a minimal effect on the temp around the SACD player. Sometimes, the fan is slightly audible, which can be annoying in soft passages, but most of the time, its well below the average music level.

  29. #239

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    Quote Originally Posted by billbillw
    Are those measurements with the setup shown in the photos?
    Yes.

    Quote Originally Posted by billbillw
    Nice to have the triple wide setup and the extra top space. Mine is a single, S40, and the top is used by the turntable, so the SACD is stuck inside. If it were on top, I probably wouldn't be concerned at all.
    I used to have the SACD player and turntable inside the cabinet, but I got tired of having to open the cabinet doors to access my source components.

    Quote Originally Posted by billbillw
    Of course, in Georgia, my ambient room temp is a bit higher too. I probably won't see 71 ambient room temp until October.
    Neither would I, unless the AC is on.;)

    Quote Originally Posted by billbillw
    You mentioned mesh sides on your cabinet. Was that a custom thing or did Salamander have something that fit? I might need to consider that. I'm sure it would help. I never really liked the look of the fake wood side panels anyway.
    Salamander makes black metal mesh side panels for the Synergy series cabinets. The top shelves above the amps were 10 degrees cooler with the mesh side panels.

  30. #240

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    Quote Originally Posted by DarqueKnight
    Yes.
    Neither would I, unless the AC is on.;)
    Can't afford to cool things below 76 in Georiga. The power co. says keep it at78.

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