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  1. #1

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    Smile Dynamat for the CD Player

    I recently lined the case of my Marantz CD-67SE with Dynamat and had some significant results. I found that I ended up turning the volume down on the powered subs. This surprised me. The sound became a lot richer with emphasis on the vocals. A lot more distinct.

    I find it very rewarding to enter into an experimental stage with audio not aware of the end result. There are many additional mods that I can do to this CD player and may that I would not attempt due to the complexity. This was a fast cheap way of improving the sound quality. I have a little left over so I think I will pop the lid on the DVD player and thrown it in.
    Michael ;)
    In the beginning, all knowledge was new!

    NORTH of 60

  2. #2

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    Don't stop there....

    Treat all of your components. Deflex and Soundcoat sheets go on all of my HS units. (I use el-cheapo tricks on my HT.)

    Try this simple test. Take your finger and thumb and striking with your fingernail, snap or ping the top of each of your components, listen carefully and repeat. Hear any tinny ringing or metalic vibratory noises or tin can or hollow chamber sounds? If you hear anything other than a dull, dead thunk with no after sound, it's not good.

    Treat it!
    polkaudio speakers: SDA-SRS-2.3 (modified) SDA-2B SDA-CRS+ RT3000p CS400i LF-14 Monitor 7B

  3. #3

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    If you can't coat it, weight it. There are alot of different types and styles of weights out there. Even an ugly old brick will work, just cover it with felt or cloth.

    Tweaks are fun aren't they.
    HT
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  4. #4

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    Here is the inside of the Marantz. What would I NOt want to cover other than obvious (processor, on top on any exposed components on the board)

    1) Chassis Cross-brace (SE and KI only)
    2) Location of the PCB Positions for Mains Filtering (hidden by 1)
    3) Location of the analog Supplies (hidden by 1)
    4) Location of the "secret" HDAM's (Hyper Dynamic Amplifier Modules) (undercover by 1)
    5) Location of the Filter-Circuit (NJM 2114 Op-Amps + PSU note the red electrolytic capacitors - they are Elna Starget/Cerafine types)
    6) Location of the DAC (underneath the PCB)
    7) Location of the main clock-crystal (note the rubber-grommet around it)
    8) Location of the two digital Supplies (one for the Transport and one for the Signal Circuits)
    9) Location of the system controlling Microprocessor
    10) Location of the Decoder/Servo-driver Chip (underneath the PCB, will be different for the 53/63 Series)
    Attached Images  
    Michael ;)
    In the beginning, all knowledge was new!

    NORTH of 60

  5. #5

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    Just do the inside of the cover, any bare metal inside and a few pieces on the non-moving parts of the transport.
    'Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a turd by the clean end."

  6. #6

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    That is pretty much what I have done to date. The other mods have to do with component replacement and a little copper tape shielding. I'm trying not to go too far so I do not end up having to purchase a new CD Player. Thanks.
    Michael ;)
    In the beginning, all knowledge was new!

    NORTH of 60

  7. #7

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    I would put a piece under the PCB assuming it is far enough away as to not make contact. It looks like it is. I've heard of people making wood frames (like picture frames) and putting them around the pcb. Seems a little far to go though. One place I like to treat is under the drive tray. The better players normally take some action there. I normally use the yellow or blu-tac stuff from wallmart and form it in the openings. Just open the tray and look underneath.
    madmax
    Vinyl, the final frontier...

    Avantgarde horns, 300b tubes, thats the kinda crap I want... :D

  8. #8

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    I removed that entire cross piece (2 screws at each end & identified as locations 1,2,3 & 4) and layered the entire underside. As well, there were 4 or 5 places along the sides and around the main board that had a lot of metal revealed. I placed 2 - 3 inch X 2 - 3 inch patches in those locations. I could have removed the entire guts and totally covered the entire additonal bottom plate, but I didn't want to take the chance of messing anything up. Not my cup of tea. As I read through the document for additional mods, some of them, if not all, will require some assistance. All in all, I think the small improvements will help.

    I have included the link if anyone is interested.


    Marantz Mods
    Michael ;)
    In the beginning, all knowledge was new!

    NORTH of 60

  9. #9

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    Dennis,

    There you go revealing my secret el-cheapo tricks I use on the HT! :D
    polkaudio speakers: SDA-SRS-2.3 (modified) SDA-2B SDA-CRS+ RT3000p CS400i LF-14 Monitor 7B

  10. #10

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    So do you completely cover the underside of the lid or just a few chunks to deaden it? I wasn't sure what a complete sheet would do to the heat dissapation (sp?).
    Never kick a fresh turd on a hot day.

    Home Setup: Sony VPL-VW85 Projo, 92" Stewart Firehawk, Pioneer Elite SC-65, PS3, RTi12 fronts, CSi5, FXi6 rears, RTi6 surround backs, RTi4 height, MFW-15 Subwoofer.

    Car Setup: OEM Radio, RF 360.2v2, Polk SR6500 quad amped off 4 Xtant 1.1 100w mono amps, Xtant 6.1 to run an eD 13av.2, all Stinger wiring and Raammat deadener.

  11. #11

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    I did the entire thing. There is not a lot of heat generated from the Marantz and there seems to be good ventilation slots on the back of the unit.
    Michael ;)
    In the beginning, all knowledge was new!

    NORTH of 60

  12. #12

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    reason I ask is because I've heard of people doing this to amps/receivers and considering it on a couple of my pieces.
    Never kick a fresh turd on a hot day.

    Home Setup: Sony VPL-VW85 Projo, 92" Stewart Firehawk, Pioneer Elite SC-65, PS3, RTi12 fronts, CSi5, FXi6 rears, RTi6 surround backs, RTi4 height, MFW-15 Subwoofer.

    Car Setup: OEM Radio, RF 360.2v2, Polk SR6500 quad amped off 4 Xtant 1.1 100w mono amps, Xtant 6.1 to run an eD 13av.2, all Stinger wiring and Raammat deadener.

  13. #13

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    I have some left over & I think I will use in on the DVD player before the amp or the receiver. I'm thinking to hit the source. Just a thought.
    Michael ;)
    In the beginning, all knowledge was new!

    NORTH of 60

  14. #14

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    Tox, there is no reason you can't use Dynamat Xtreme on amps or receivers, just leave the vent areas open......common sense, eh? I like to put some on top of the transformers too.
    'Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a turd by the clean end."

  15. #15

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    that's why I asked... it just seemed odd.
    Never kick a fresh turd on a hot day.

    Home Setup: Sony VPL-VW85 Projo, 92" Stewart Firehawk, Pioneer Elite SC-65, PS3, RTi12 fronts, CSi5, FXi6 rears, RTi6 surround backs, RTi4 height, MFW-15 Subwoofer.

    Car Setup: OEM Radio, RF 360.2v2, Polk SR6500 quad amped off 4 Xtant 1.1 100w mono amps, Xtant 6.1 to run an eD 13av.2, all Stinger wiring and Raammat deadener.

  16. #16

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    Perhaps I missed something, or maybe not.
    Michael ;)
    In the beginning, all knowledge was new!

    NORTH of 60

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