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Thread: Equalizers

  1. #1

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    Question Equalizers

    Do I need a Equalizer for music?
    TV :>Panasonic TC-P55VT50
    RECEIVER :> HARMAN KARDON AVR 7300
    FRONT :> L & R :> POLK RTI A9 500 W
    AMP :1> PARASOUND HALO A21 250 W
    AMP :2> EMOTIVA UPA-1 200 W
    CENTER :> POLK CSI A6 200 W
    SURROUND SIDE :>POLK RTi A3 150 W
    SURROUND REAR :>POLK F/XI A6 150 W
    DVD PLAYER(HD) :>TOSHIBA HD X-A2
    DVD PLAYER(BLU-RAY) :>Panasonic DMP-BDT 500
    POWER CONDITIONER :>PANAMAX M5400-EX
    SUBWOOFER :A> SVS PCI12 ULTRA 525 W
    SUBWOOFER :B> Polk PSW125 150 W

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    I use one on my sub to get it as flat as possible, but I don't mess with frequencies above about 100hz. Most people here don't use equalizers for anything but subs. They seem to work more with speaker placement and room treatments for good sounds....

    Michael
    Last edited by McLoki; 09-17-2005 at 11:13 AM.
    Mains.............Polk LSi15 (Cherry)
    Center............Polk LSiC (Crossover upgraded)
    Surrounds.......Polk LSi7 (Gloss Black - wood sides removed and crossovers upgraded)
    Subwoofers.....SVS 25-31 CS+ and PC+ (both 20hz tune)
    Pre\Pro...........NAD T163 (Modded with LM4562 opamps)
    Amplifier.........Cinepro 3k6 (6-channel, 500wpc@4ohms)

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    No. You are right now. No need more.

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    Angry

    What do u mean? :o :o :o
    TV :>Panasonic TC-P55VT50
    RECEIVER :> HARMAN KARDON AVR 7300
    FRONT :> L & R :> POLK RTI A9 500 W
    AMP :1> PARASOUND HALO A21 250 W
    AMP :2> EMOTIVA UPA-1 200 W
    CENTER :> POLK CSI A6 200 W
    SURROUND SIDE :>POLK RTi A3 150 W
    SURROUND REAR :>POLK F/XI A6 150 W
    DVD PLAYER(HD) :>TOSHIBA HD X-A2
    DVD PLAYER(BLU-RAY) :>Panasonic DMP-BDT 500
    POWER CONDITIONER :>PANAMAX M5400-EX
    SUBWOOFER :A> SVS PCI12 ULTRA 525 W
    SUBWOOFER :B> Polk PSW125 150 W

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    Michael is right about the EQ. How flat is your frequency response? If you have any major room nodes that changing the position doen't fix it may be worth looking into one, but if you aren't noticing any peaks or boominess it probably isn't worth bothering. If you want to try different room positions the best method seems to be to put the sub in the listening position then move around the room to find the sweet spots were the sub would sound good, then put the sub in that spot. If you want to try EQ I have heard good things about the BFD.

    Scott

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    I personally have them..BUT the Art351's 31 band 1/3 octave EQ's are ONLY used for 2 channel music. My BFD1124 is used for my Sub. Do yourself a favor if you are that serious about your music as to add an EQ

    Read this article - http://www.ethanwiner.com/acoustics.html

    Purchase a Behringer ECM-8000 mic (approx $50)

    You can also use your Ratshack SPL meter as a mic if you own one. If you do not..I highly suggest you go out and buy one (Approx $50) and the good ole Avia DVD.

    The microphone is more accurate than the meter..but if you dont want to spend the exra money the meter is just fine

    Download this application - http://homepage.ntlworld.com/john.mulcahy/roomeq/ (Free)

    Follow instructions and measure your rooms response. Move speakers around some..re-measure..rinse_repeat until you are somewhat happy with your rough curve. Begin room treatments. Go back to step one of rinse repeat. If you dont want to room treat then the EQ is your only route after moving your speakers around.

    You should also only use the EQ for 2 channel music imo.

    The BFD1124 is a fantastic piece of equipment for the grand sum of $100. It will do absolute wonders with your sub. The Room EQ app link i sent above will allow you to connect your BFD to your pc and adjust the curves that way.

    The BFD setup guide.

    http://www.snapbug.ws/bfd.htm

    This is a very brief post to get you rolling.

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    does anyone have any expericance with the DEQ1024?
    http://www.behringer.com/DEQ1024/index.cfm?lang=ENG

    This unit seems like it might be a little easier to work with, and i cant see where they are selling the BFD1124 .

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    You can get the BFD1124 here..

    http://www.musiciansfriend.com/srs7/...se_pid/182467/

    Or if you have a Guitar Shop near you they sell them there for the same price.

    I would not use the 1024 for sub curving as the amount of adjustable bands are too minimal as well as not being accurate within a +/- adjustable frequency. They are fixed amounts. The main component of the 1124 is the Parametric eq..not the Feedback Destroyer function.
    Last edited by Tritonman; 09-26-2005 at 11:55 AM.

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    OK, thanks for the infor. Also can I get some input from everyone on what crossover frequecy everyone uses. I am currently seting mine at 60, but im not too happy with the sound of my lower end (I just ordered a BFD1124). Also does anyone mess too much with the standard tone controles (bass and trebel) on there reciever/preamp?

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    Equalizer bad, very bad. For anal retentives only! :D

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    Quote Originally Posted by aaharvel
    Equalizer bad, very bad. For anal retentives only! :D
    I really have to disagree with those comments.

    First, Eqs for subs are good. They can make a huge difference.

    Second, ... oh yeah...that is true. :)

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    Quote Originally Posted by sickicw
    OK, thanks for the infor. Also can I get some input from everyone on what crossover frequecy everyone uses. I am currently seting mine at 60, but im not too happy with the sound of my lower end (I just ordered a BFD1124). Also does anyone mess too much with the standard tone controles (bass and trebel) on there reciever/preamp?
    I personally use a setting on my sub of 60hz. But the xover setting also depends on what speakers you are using..the size of your room...the location of the sub.

    The Room EQ link i placed above gives you the ability to attach your 1124 to your pc and set the curves accordingly. At most you will probably spend about an hour of your time configuring your BFD.

    You will need a mic or your RatShack spl meter.

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    Quote Originally Posted by sickicw
    OK, thanks for the infor. Also can I get some input from everyone on what crossover frequecy everyone uses. I am currently seting mine at 60, but im not too happy with the sound of my lower end (I just ordered a BFD1124). Also does anyone mess too much with the standard tone controles (bass and trebel) on there reciever/preamp?
    I currently have a fixed crossover at 80hz. I hope to get a pre-amp with adjustable crossovers because I would like to set everything to 60hz. (If I someday get LSi15's for fronts, they will crossover at 40hz.) It's not what is best for everyone, but the ability to play and determine for your setup what sounds best.

    I never mess with the tone controls. I think if you are in a position where you have to adjust the bass or treble in your system - you have some serious synergy issues that need resolved. Wrong amp, speakers, cables, source or some combination of the above....

    Michael
    Mains.............Polk LSi15 (Cherry)
    Center............Polk LSiC (Crossover upgraded)
    Surrounds.......Polk LSi7 (Gloss Black - wood sides removed and crossovers upgraded)
    Subwoofers.....SVS 25-31 CS+ and PC+ (both 20hz tune)
    Pre\Pro...........NAD T163 (Modded with LM4562 opamps)
    Amplifier.........Cinepro 3k6 (6-channel, 500wpc@4ohms)

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    Quote Originally Posted by McLoki
    I never mess with the tone controls. I think if you are in a position where you have to adjust the bass or treble in your system - you have some serious synergy issues that need resolved. Wrong amp, speakers, cables, source or some combination of the above....

    Michael
    Agreed on the tone controls. You should always move your speakers around or treat your room acoustically before making tonal adjustments. This also work when it comes to the sub.

    Always try to move the sub till it sounds the best to you. The ole crawl on the floor trick works good...unfortunately sometimes the sub just cant physically go where the test tell you.

    Once you find the spot for the sub then measure the response. Try moving it again and measure again from your listening position. Once you have it set in a spot that sounds good to you in your listening position. Its time to measure. Once thats done then you set your BFD up and adjust accordingly.

    When you are all done you will have a much better sounding sub along with a much better curve. The EQ will help eliminate or tame peaks..but it will not help out too much with dips. This is where moving the sub around helps.

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    Are you recommending the BFD1124 to tame subwoofer issues in a home theater setting or also for 2 channel music? I am close to being sold on using it to tame the subs in my home theater (I cannot stand what the Audyssey program in my Denon receiver does - I always end up bypassing it), but wonder if I should consider it for music. I am using a pair of Infinity RS-1s that are supplemented by a M&K MX-5000 sub for anything below 45 hz (yes - those big woofer columns in the RS-1s need help in the low end). I think I know the answer. Should I get two BFD1124s?
    Last edited by Namikis; 02-09-2014 at 07:44 PM.

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    Just ordered an 1124p and a EC-8000 microphone (I felt embarrassed ordering anything with Behringer in the name, but I guess it could be worse, I could be buying Bose). Will report on results when I receive. Will test on the two-chanel and home tehater rigs.

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    The most useful range for an EQ is in the lower octaves. (30,60,120 Hz) Most of these can be taken care of using room treatment and speaker positioning. An EQ is last resort is for some reason you cant use the other methods.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Hofy View Post
    The most useful range for an EQ is in the lower octaves. (30,60,120 Hz) Most of these can be taken care of using room treatment and speaker positioning. An EQ is last resort is for some reason you cant use the other methods.
    Not true. Room treatments that can reach 30-120hz has to be thick and there has to be lots of it to make an appreciable difference. Speaker positioning may help with room modes, but any amount of speaker positioning cannot alleviate deleterious room interactions. EQ is not necessary a last resort and EQ can make a bad sub design sound good. Many manufacturers add EQ to sealed subs which roll 12db/octave naturally to give them a linear response.
    2Ch Tube Audio Convert

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    Quote Originally Posted by aboroth00 View Post
    Not true. Room treatments that can reach 30-120hz has to be thick and there has to be lots of it to make an appreciable difference. Speaker positioning may help with room modes, but any amount of speaker positioning cannot alleviate deleterious room interactions. EQ is not necessary a last resort and EQ can make a bad sub design sound good. Many manufacturers add EQ to sealed subs which roll 12db/octave naturally to give them a linear response.
    Yes, pretty much what I was getting at. In my audio den I can do what ever I want as far as tuning the room and I will not care what it looks like. However if the music system was in the living room, there is now way my wife would stand for lots of thick room treatment, so the EQ would happily come into play like it did in our last house.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Hofy View Post
    Yes, pretty much what I was getting at. In my audio den I can do what ever I want as far as tuning the room and I will not care what it looks like. However if the music system was in the living room, there is now way my wife would stand for lots of thick room treatment, so the EQ would happily come into play like it did in our last house.
    That sounds pretty sweet that you can put as much bass traps in your room as necessary. Any pictures/graphs of the results?
    2Ch Tube Audio Convert

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    Do what I want and have done are 2 different things. Since we recently moved things are still being set up and tweeked. I am not going overboard and creating a full deadroom with no reflections or standing waves. I am setting it up for nearfield and going from there. And yes I will post pics and results when I am done.

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    I don't use an EQ.

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