2 12" Speaker split box

[Still learning]

Well thats the basic layout, i plan on squaring everything out, i will then fill all the cracks, and screw holes with wood paste, ill sand it down to make everything smooth and make the corners nice and even. I think ill paint it silver with metal flake, and put like 10000000 coats of clear on it. All post pics if it when its finished, witch will be in a month or so(im in no hurry+i have other demands)


P.S. This is kind of a nother post but, what method do you guys use to seal a box? I just put the whole box together except the back, then i seal the box in all of the exposed cracks, i.e: the face to the sides, Then i put the back on and seal the back to the sides through the speaker hole(s). Do you guys have a easyer method? this way is kind of a paine, or is this how you have to do it. I cant think of another way.

[Still learning]

Kind of random but if i have an amp that is 500 watts RMS X 1 @ 2ohms can i run that through a speaker that is 4ohms? I.E: can i use this amp to power those subs?
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-BnhcTwN...0&I=489AP1000M

[neomagus00]

if the amp is 500W x 1 ch. @ 2 ohms, it's probably 250-300W x 1 ch. at 4 ohms... and yes, that link says 310 watts...

[Still learning]

if the amp is 500W x 1 ch. @ 2 ohms, it's probably 250-300W x 1 ch. at 4 ohms... and yes, that link says 310 watts...

Ok i get it, wow!!! i feel stupid for asking that question.

[Still learning]

How am i suppose to find the recomended box volume for PCH-154? It cant be that 10.347 cubic FT^3 can it?

http://tinypic.com/feibg2.jpg

is there some kind of rule for size and wattige of the sub for the volume?

[Still learning]

Ok, here are the final "draw ups" this is what the box will be,

http://tinypic.com/feigz7.jpg

[neomagus00]

no, 10.347 ft^3 is Vas, which is a composite measure of the suspension's stiffness... there are equations for box-building, but it's infinitely easier to use something like unibox or winisd pro (more advanced)... winisd reccommends a hair over 5.1 ft^3 for a standard sealed box tuning, which is rather large... with a more reasonable 2.75 ft^3, your SPL peak is 114 dB at 111 Hz, dropping by 3dB at 58 Hz... a vented box of comparable size hits 115 dB at a lower 90 Hz, dropping by 3dB at 54 Hz... a smaller box or higher tuning could increase maximum SPL at the expense of low-range extension...

edit: i'd be real careful trying to make that box, the trig doesn't check out on some angles... specifically the 10.35 x 3 x 14 triangle you're trying to make (i know it's not a piece of wood to be cut, but the angles should still work out)... those three measurements cannot produce a right-angle triangle, which is bad, cause that's how it's drawn...

[Still learning]

no, 10.347 ft^3 is Vas, which is a composite measure of the suspension's stiffness... there are equations for box-building, but it's infinitely easier to use something like unibox or winisd pro (more advanced)... winisd reccommends a hair over 5.1 ft^3 for a standard sealed box tuning, which is rather large... with a more reasonable 2.75 ft^3, your SPL peak is 114 dB at 111 Hz, dropping by 3dB at 58 Hz... a vented box of comparable size hits 115 dB at a lower 90 Hz, dropping by 3dB at 54 Hz... a smaller box or higher tuning could increase maximum SPL at the expense of low-range extension...

...so how hard would this rather ****ty sub hit if i was to hook up the 100 watts RMS up to it and build the 2.75 ft^3 sealed box?

[neomagus00]

with a more reasonable 2.75 ft^3, your SPL peak is 114 dB at 111 Hz, dropping by 3dB at 58 Hz...

you'd over-excurse beginning at about 60 Hz, though, so you'd never be able to use all 100 watts...

[MacLeod]

over-excurse

Is that even a word?

I think youre making this stuff up! ;)

[Still learning]

The way I have the measurements makes the appearance that this is going to be a bunch of pieces, but in fact it is only 6 pieces, I’m going to make that big ass rectangle for the top and cut it at the given angles, the divider is in fact at a right angle with the back, but not the front I see what you mean about the right triangle thing, but from the divider piece of wood to the end of both cells dose make a right triangle, because at the blue line is 14 inches, not 17 I know it’s a little confusing but the two 14” pieces line up right where there drawn up. I showed a couple of my pals, they thought that it was 17+3 inches=20inches I’m not sure if that’s what you are thinking (I am a little confused on where you were going there). :)

[Still learning]

Is this the right place to get that unibox thing? because if it is, i qm way!!! confused!!!! HFS!!

[neomagus00]

excurse as the root of excursion

and look at the uploaded picture... the triangle of which i speak is circled and redrawn in red with the appropriate measurements, which do NOT work out to a right triangle...

[neomagus00]

p.s. http://home20.inet.tele.dk/kou/ubmodel.html

[Still learning]

:D

p.s. http://home20.inet.tele.dk/kou/ubmodel.html

Yea thats the same one i have........omfg!!! that is some hard ass ****!!! i give you guys many cookies of respect, this is science. :D

[neomagus00]

more importantly, do you see what i see in the box drawing?

[Still learning]

excurse as the root of excursion

and look at the uploaded picture... the triangle of which i speak is circled and redrawn in red with the appropriate measurements, which do NOT work out to a right triangle...

then can you show me the way? i could have sworn that all of the measurements were correct.

Well, dose it work with a 140 angle because i was messing around with those two?

[neomagus00]

i actually have a test shortly, i'll be back around 2100 EST, i can design an appropriate box with approximately that shape then, if you like... it's mostly done, shouldn't take more than an hour...

[Still learning]

i actually have a test shortly, i'll be back around 2100 EST, i can design an appropriate box with approximately that shape then, if you like... it's mostly done, shouldn't take more than an hour...

Sure i guess, id like to know where i went wrong though, that took me a while to do, and for it to be rong kills me.

Thanks

[neomagus00]

yep, talk to you in a few hours...

[neomagus00]

h'okay, here is the earth... i mean, box... this is obviously a top-down view... the boards are shown as i would cut them, and i used 15 degrees for ease of cutting, but you will need to do a bit of geometry here and there to get the angles right... note the peak on the divider, that's pretty important... also note that the front face is a hair over 14 inches wide, so what i would do is cut a 14.25 inch wide piece with the right angles, mount and glue it all up, and then sand the fringe from the edge of that piece (rather than try to cut it to 14.011 inches to begin with)... the box is 14 inches deep (from the point of view of the picture - that's 14 inches tall if you were looking from the front), to give a nice square face for each sub... make sure the magnet won't hit the divider... the volume is 1.3 ft^3 for each sub to within 2.02 cubic inches... there's obviously the not-drawn (irregular) pentagons of the top and bottom that go on last to hold the whole kit n' caboodle together... and there's no provisions for carpeting, but they're not hard to add, just tack on a quarter of an inch of overhang to the front, rear, top, and bottom boards...

[Still learning]

So it'll be a little more like this...



P.S. I have access to a full shop, and i am going to use the CNC to cut out the holes at the perfect size and such. If i needed to i could cut down to .0001 of an inch, its some pretty cool stuff, i have just learned in the past year the program of CAD. SO what ever it takes for it to be 1.3 ft^3 ill do it. :)

[Still learning]

Quick question, would it be better to get 1 amp @ 1200 watt peak & (200X2 RMS) or to get 2 amps @ 400 watt peak & (200X1 RMS) and hook up 1 amp to each sub.Wich set up would be better/sounding, best proformance?

[neomagus00]

peak numbers are irrelevant... i'd need the RMS numbers to choose... and if you want to cut the front panel perfectly, that interior dimension (the ~14 one is interior, despite where it's written - there are no exterior dimensions written in this image) is really sqrt(13.5^2 + 3.75^2)...

p.s. i suppose attaching the image would be a good idea, yeah?

[Still learning]

For the amp thing, Would it be better to get 1 amp that can produce (200w RMS X 2)@4 ohms I.E----1200w------, and hook that up to those subs, or to get two different amps that can produce (200W RMS X 1)@ 4 ohms I.E-----400w------, and hook one to each sub.

[Still learning]

Im kind of stuck in my head on the box thing, will the FT^3 come out to be 1.3? Will the magnet hit the center divider? the box was small befor but damn!!!! ive seen single sub boxs that are bigger than this???

[hellohello]

different subsneed different volumes, plus the other boxes mighta been the wrong size. If your worried about something not fitting, what i do is make a life size drawing on big sheets of paper, or make a cardboard mockup, for me i need to actually see what im working with, schematics and little plans only show so much

[hellohello]

as for amplification, theyre 125-500 rms, according to the site, and theyre both 4 ohm.
With that information ud need amps between 300-500 rms at 4 ohms for each speaker if you were to use two seperate amps or a bridged 4 channel. If you only want to use one amp, ud need one thats ~600-1000 watts rms (simply add the two rms's) at 2 ohms, either a mono amp or a bridged 2 channel.

[neomagus00]

what's the magnet depth, and what are the cutout and magnet diameters? give me that and i can tell you if the sub is likely to hit the divider... and yes, that comes to 1.3 ft^3...

[Still learning]

Check out the $$ for this $$$$$$ , i dont think ill be getting a 1000W RMS amp any time soon. Why cant i just use that (200w RMS X 2)? that seems alot more better for me:) i dont want to spend much more than 250-300 for an amp.