I looked at getting the surroundbar but the reviews are all over the place!
I looked at getting the surroundbar but the reviews are all over the place!
L front + L Rear in parrell - R front + R Rear in parrell. Then hook negative from lefts to amp then plus from lefts to negative on center, Positive on center to neg last rights, last plus from rights to amp. So in short the center is in series with the parrell left and rights. This really give a nice full sound to the speaker which I think I'll leave for the time being.
2. Xo protects and make sure the woofer gets the proper sound. I am not sure but I think the Xo are glued/epoxied to the chassis (typical chinese electronic mess)
3. As I pointed out the Xo are high impedence in but if you go straight to the woofer, it is 8 ohms and the series/paralell arrangement might simply mess things up.
4. Your only concern are the rears Xo and phasing.
5. For best results and quality of sound, you would be best to use an older AB out stereo receiver for powering the bar as the impedance match would be met and would provide you with more power... Don't forget if you try to power 5 125 watts woofer with a single output that may provide you approximately 100 watts is not very efficient but if you pre-out your center into a seperate amp wich provides you 100 watts per channel, you are now some like 400 watts to the SB versus only 100 watts... now you would be talking!
I have the original 42" SB paired with a LFE 12" sub and some Polk rears using an Onyko 906 AV receiver. The sound field is impressive for movies/TV viewing. However for music listening I would suggest a pair of good fronts R/L on channel B.
I do know however, if you have the width in your media cabinet get the 50" SB, the side surround sound image is better.
I built quite a few speakers of the years and many used multi drivers. I know I can tie the woofers and tweeters together and get the impedance I want. Just want to keep the crossover point Polk used between the woofer and tweeter the same.
I also want no low frequency cut off in the speaker itself, I'll use the receivers internal for that. I'm going to look into this tomorrow. maybe I can post some pics of it opened up.
So I got my Surroundbar 42 a few weeks ago and love it.
Just got my PSW125 and am hooking up this morning.
And the Surroundbar instructions don't really stipulate when you should use speakerwire connection and when you should use RCA/LFE - except to say that the RCA/LFE connex should be used for higher volumes.
I don't necessarily plan on very high volumes.
Does that mean i should use the speaker wire connection?
And, if so, if i connect to the "B" speakers rather than the "A" speakers (along with the surroundbar connex), will that work just the same?
Thanks in advance for any advice.
Use the RCA/LFE connection, don't worry about the speaker level suggestion.
Cool rebullet! As I pointed out I would prefer to drive the woofer seperately (different channels) as I would be able to provide more power to each drivers... sure is a shame to drive 7 woofers that can use 125 watts with a single channel that provides maybe 100w - 200w for the 7 drivers.Here's the pics of it opened up, I went for it and only kept the center channel crossover. but by passed the 300uf cap that limits the low frequency cutoff. it's now Nominal 6 ohms impedance. The sound it one kick but center channel ! I removed the two outer boards, they even use a SDA cable to tie them together just like the originals. Also the same 8 and 4 ohms woofers like the old sda's. I may try and build a mini modern set of SDA's with these boards ;-)
Neither my TV nor my Surroundbar 50 are on the wall. Rather, the surroundbar sits in front of the TV on my entertainment stand. I was wondering whether anyone knows of a wooden box that the surroundbar could fit and that would rest under the TV (so the TV would be on top of the boxed surroundbar). The box would need to be as wide as the surroundbar and as deep as the TV.
Any suggestions would be most appreciated.
Does anyone have any experience with the surroundbar and the PSWi225 Wireless Subwoofer?
Specifically, is it possible to run the subwoofer in with the front speakers? If not, how does it sound?
The subwoofer would work just like any other subwoofer. I'm not sure what you mean...."....with the front speakers".
http://www.polkaudio.com/downloads/m...StartGuide.pdf). However, if Polk responds in the negative you simply hook-up the subwoofer Tx to your receiver and it would sound fine. I haven't had the opportunity to test the PSW225i (being Canadian you are penalized ;) ) but I tested similar wireless Tx/Rx for speakers with great success. Simply looking at the PSW225i Tx, it seems of good quality. I am not sure if there is some type of srambling/protection (NO user manual seems to be available yet)against other home devices that uses the same 2.4 Gigahertz technology. A nice feature is the 4 channels selector which would help you avoid/move away slightly from other 2.4 GHz gear. IE: If you have a wireless phone let's say using exactly 2.4 GHz, you could set your selector to use let say 2.49 GHz for the sub thus eliminating potential gear confusion in sharing the typical 2.4 GHz frequency.connect the transmitter, and you're done. Onboard Polk Digital LogicTM uses advanced auto-sensing to determine the signal your system is sending (LFE or Line Level), and it instantly responds, selecting the appropriate low-pass filter.
Last edited by TECHNOKID; 10-21-2009 at 10:42 PM.
Actually I'm a CSR and wanted to clarify with the original poster prior to commenting. The connections are not like a normal subwoofer but it operates like any other subwoofer. It would work fine with the SurroundBar and here's a quick explanation of the "how", minus the "high Z" junk...
No additional (and expensive) LFE cable needed; no audio wires needed at all. Put your subwoofer anywhere you want it, and sacrifice nothing for the convenience. Plug the sub into a nearby wall outlet, connect the transmitter, and you're done. Onboard Polk Digital LogicTM uses advanced auto-sensing to determine the signal your system is sending (LFE or Line Level), and it instantly responds, selecting the appropriate low-pass filter. The 2.4-Gigahertz Wireless Transmitter is state-of-the-art, interfaces easily with any system, and can be put anywhere in your room.
Last edited by dorokusai; 10-21-2009 at 10:34 PM.
and I think I emailed Polk support a couple days after the purchase with my impedence concern if the SB was parallelled with the subwoofer: http://www.polkaudio.com/downloads/m...StartGuide.pdf (page 5). There were 2 communications between I and support and they were firm about the HIGH Z of the SB which allowed such connections between the SB and the subwoofer.Registration Information
Below is the information you have submitted on 03/02/2008
Serial Number(s) AM405705569
Purchase Date 03/02/2008
Dealer Name The Brick
Here is a discussion on our Canadian forum were I mention the HIGH Z effect of the SB and my personal report and testing:http://www.digitalhome.ca/forum/show...ht=surroundbarHere some info on the testing-demo I have done over the last weekend: http://www.digitalhome.ca/forum/show...t=34127&page=7
I will be doing some more familiarisation and tests over the next weekend, if there is something specific you would like me to comment on, let me know before this week and I will see if it is feasible. Please, this is only my personal input and you should arrange for your own demo at your favorite store if it still interest you after my final comments.
As i pointed out, the Soundbar uses the exact same drivers as the RM10 and the RM20. There is 7 drivers total in the bar versus 8 for the RM20 5Pack (the center of the 5Pack has 2 drivers and the Bar has 1). The fronts of the bar has only one driver each which the RM20 5Pack has 2 but the rear of the RM20 5Pack has only 1 drivers each as they use RM10 for the back surround and the Bar uses 2 for each Surround Back as there is a combination of in-phase and inversion/out of phase in order to eliminate the Phantom effect of 2 speakers on each side (L&R).
I hope my babling is not too confusing, I opened one of each of my speakers to see their guts (of course my favorite are the RM30 and then this Bar as it is an attention getter; gets the old tech in me very curious and interested... afterall, it is High tech!) and read a lot about each speakers and the bar it self. Inside the PolksBar there are High pass filters and crossovers. The end result is a very HIGH IMPEDANCE ( so high you can not really read, at 40M the meter goes nuts up to open and at 400M I get a weird reading!). This high Z allow you to do some paralell set-up with other speakers without affecting the impedance match. The speakers are 8 ohms rated but the high Z isolate that low Z allowing you to do some paralell combination(s) which I will more likely be testing in the long run.
Once my room is ready, I will more likely use the bar in combination with other more powerfull speakers in order to fill the front area with the bar and allowing me to keep my larger speakers closer to the listeneing area. The way I feel, the more speakers will fill more of the room while they do not need to be as big-large and also allowing me to keep the volume at a lower setting which is good for the life span of both amp and speakers and keep them far away from the distorsion level!
Hope some of this helps you in your choice!?!
I'll try to look again for the Polk support email(s) relating to the high impedance and SDA technology.
No problem, thanks TK. I just wanted to get some history on the high Z comments. It's really not an issue regardless of what the end user wants to connect. For the nerds, like you and me, its more of a talking point.
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I hope this doesnt sound like an obvious question, but I'm gonna ask anyway.
I just read this whole thread, most seem pleased with the soundbar and it has my interest.
I was (am) planning on a 5.1 system with rti8's as the fronts and am looking at csi-3'5 for the center. The center hasnt gotten the WAF because of its size so my question is:
With a sound bar, would that be for TV and movie watching only without using the fronts(rti8's).Then for music-CD-stereo etc go to 2 channel with sub- not using the soundbar?
I hope my question makes sense? OR could i use the rti8's and the soundbar together?
I'm not understanding you Mrbofus.
Yeah, that what I thought. Lets try this again.
The soundbar is intended to be used by itself when watching TV or Movies, correct?
Can it be used in conjunction with my rti8's like a center? basically a 3.0/3.1 with sub
and when listening to music (TV off) like CD's would you bypass the soundbar and only use the rti8's basically 2 channel?
Is that a bit more clear? I'm not really sure how to ask my question
Which SurroundBar (not soundbar) are you referring to?
I apoligize again,
The "SurroundBar" has my interest, I have a 40" LCD so I was thinking about the 42" or 50" SurroundBar. Instead of a full 5.1 system
Could the Surroundbar be used as a center channel in a 3.1 system or will it sound better as a stand alone with sub?
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