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  1. #1

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    Default The Version 2 BP10B Rebuild - The Final Stretch

    The end is coming CLOSE! I can feel it!

    Still gotta do the recesses around the holes - do the lil oval thing around the port holes...

    Then apply the foam to the front and back panels - then paint... then gotta get side panels...

    THE END IS NEAR!!

    Also got some new binding post for my crossovers.... nifty...
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  2. #2
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    1"mdf enclosures? sweet.
    Foam insulation. Are these diy clones of Definitive Tech speakers?

  3. #3

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    the front and back panels are 1" thick...

    The sides, top are 3/4" thick... (MDF)

    The original had 3/4" thick sides (PB) and 1/2" thick top and bottom (PB)

    They are exact clones of the BP10B - except a slightly larger interrior to accomodate the 230" of added bracing!

    The foam is just as the original BP10B has... - except mine is more...sonically complete - so to speak
    www.Vr3Mods.com ///// www.Version3Audio.com

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  4. #4

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    Looking good, kid...
    I smell ass, burning ass, glowing cherry red spanked ass.

    RT1

  5. #5

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    lots o bracing...

    overbuilding is a good thing =P

    Keep it up can't wait to see the end result

    Chris
    Receiver: Onkyo TX-SR502-S
    DVD Player: Pioneer DV-578A-S
    Left and Right: R50
    Center: CS1
    Rear Center: R15
    Surrounds: R30
    Subwoofer: 10'' Dayton 100 Watt

  6. #6

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    Your next project BETTER be a full DiY project. Your cabinetry skills look great, so there's no reason why you shouldn't be building your speakers from scratch :D

  7. #7

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    You design me a crossover (and build it)...

    I'll think about it... ;)

    Thanks for all the comments! :)
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  8. #8

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    Hey kid...not bad...;)
    Quote Originally Posted by George Grand View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by Jstas View Post
    Simple question. If you had a cool million bucks, what would you do with it?
    Wonder WTF happened to the rest of my money.
    My Saga
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  9. #9

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    After about 2.5 hours of free-hand routing... lol

    The puddy is to cover up the parts where the router started to go deeper... I eventually figured out why it was doing it.. lol
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  10. #10

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    You didn't start at the middle and work your way out...
    I smell ass, burning ass, glowing cherry red spanked ass.

    RT1

  11. #11

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    Yeah...

    The hole is for the port...

    and I worked my way out to the lil lines I drew...

    The problem was...

    The router would "catch" the wood and somehow, magically lower the bit causing it to go deeper. I finally after much arrogance figured out what I was doing wrong and figured I needed to slow down...

    As you can see, after the first time I messed up on the 2nd one (right) - I didnt do it anymore... ;)

    Now Im in the process of puttying up those crevices... (sp) - about 1 more coat and it should be all good...
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  12. #12

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    Lookin' GOOD, Sid!

    BDT
    I plan for the future. - F1Nut

  13. #13

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    I Think your router should have a travel stop. Set that the next time. Also don't forget to lock the collar after you set the depth.
    I smell ass, burning ass, glowing cherry red spanked ass.

    RT1

  14. #14

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    Thanks Troy! :)

    Amul,
    I was using a router from the school's shop - it's a Ryobi ---- to set the depth you loosen this bolt (looks like a T, dont know the proper name) but you set the depth you are looking for then you tighten it back up....

    Here it is -
    http://www.homedepot.com/prel80/HDUS...gll.0&MID=9876
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  15. #15

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    Holes recessed...

    Terminal Hole cut out... (which looks out of square (which it probally is) - but I have enough room to position it square)

    Port hole oval recessed...

    Every panel is READY TO ROLL...

    Tommorow I will start putting them together... (atleast the backs)... then port tubes... then front panel.. then start sanding... then painting... then side panels...

    (A pic might help)
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  16. #16

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    well then the final stretch is coming to it's final stretch =P

    big project sid just tell me the differences before and after.

    Enjoy!

    Chris
    Receiver: Onkyo TX-SR502-S
    DVD Player: Pioneer DV-578A-S
    Left and Right: R50
    Center: CS1
    Rear Center: R15
    Surrounds: R30
    Subwoofer: 10'' Dayton 100 Watt

  17. #17

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    hey sid

    random post...

    found this at a local store website.

    was tempted to jump on it!

    bp8b for 200 each sounds good...but who knows

    somehow felt compelled to post that in this thread...eh maybe if you live in texas you can get them =P


    Chris
    Receiver: Onkyo TX-SR502-S
    DVD Player: Pioneer DV-578A-S
    Left and Right: R50
    Center: CS1
    Rear Center: R15
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  18. #18

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    200 each new? Thats a really good price...

    Sadly, I have never heard the BP8B... hehe

    I put on one back panel last night... that was a PAIN with only having two clamps... I need atleast 4 more... I'm surprised the panel is on there as good as it is... I had to use alot of nails to keep it down... that was tiresome, took two hours to put on a panel effectively... it is on there pretty good though, so its all good....

    And I glued that port in there...it turned out very good!
    Last edited by VR3; 01-04-2006 at 06:49 AM.
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  19. #19

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    Update...

    Left speaker is on the road to completion... armed with more clamps (still need about 4 more to do this adequately... lol *sigh*

    Here are some pics

    First panel/2 clamps = 2 hours
    Second panel/6 clamps = 45 minutes..

    Possibly going to pick up some Cedar Friday!! w00t w00t...
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    Last edited by VR3; 01-04-2006 at 10:42 PM.
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  20. #20

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    Well one is ready for paint...

    I sanded alot, yet I didnt sand alot - I'm not to worried about the minor stuff - especially since the base coat is going to be truck bed liner... lol

    I just wanted everything to be smooth and seamless... :)
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  21. #21

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    Awesome.
    Quote Originally Posted by George Grand View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by Jstas View Post
    Simple question. If you had a cool million bucks, what would you do with it?
    Wonder WTF happened to the rest of my money.
    My Saga
    Equipment Pictures

    [2CH]
    Rotel RCD-02
    Yamaha KX-W900U
    Sony ST-S500ES
    Denon DP-7F
    Parasound P/HP-850
    Parasound HCA-1000A
    Klipsch RF-35


    [In Storage]
    Yamaha CDR-HD1300
    ASL Wave 20 monoblocks
    Pro-Ject Phono Box MKII


    [Car System]
    Pioneer Premier DEH-P860MP
    Memphis 16-MCA3004
    Boston Acoustic RC520

  22. #22

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    After going through FIVE, yes FIVE spray on cans to only obtain ONE...yes ONE coat of effing truck bed liner. I broke down and bought the roll on truck bed liner...

    and let me go ahead and say it. The roll on... RULES!

    In the picture I have only done two coats on the two panels pictured (that side and the back) -- I found that you need a roller for each panel since I can only do two per day (one per speaker) because it takes about 6-7 hours - yes that long - to dry fully... But man it looks so much better than that spray on stuff... lol

    I have one more coat to do on each panel (the other side, front and top need two more since i havnt rolled any on there yet) - the back got a really thick coat since I didnt know how the roller would react after being washed out...

    And I picked up my cedar... I am currently gluing it up...

    Im gluing up the 3rd one now, two are done and are ready to be planed and cut.

    You have to love than non-manufactured look of solid wood. Veneer... HA!
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    Last edited by VR3; 01-11-2006 at 04:07 PM.
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  23. #23

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    Five coats of truck bedliner. Hmmm...did you put on any kind of primer or cheap spray paint first? I did 2 coats of primer on my line arrays and 2 coats of truck bedliner and it looks perfect. I did a 6ft tall speaker, the front only, with about 1/3 can of bedliner

  24. #24

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    Not five coats, five CANS... five CANS made... ONE** coat... lol

    Im only on my 2nd coat (I plan to do three)...

    I did 2 coats of spray paint before...

    Most of the reason I need to do 3 coats is the side of that MDF *really* soaks up paint/truck bed liner...
    Last edited by VR3; 01-11-2006 at 06:17 PM.
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  25. #25

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    Sid -- I assume you'll be re-installing the drivers and crossovers that you took out. What improvements in sound do you anticipate due to the rebuild?
    HT/2-channel Rig: Sony 50 LCD TV; Toshiba HD-A2 DVD player; Emotiva LMC-1 pre/pro; Rogue Audio M-120 monoblocks (modded); Placette RVC; Emotiva LPA-1 amp; Bada HD-22 tube CDP (modded); VMPS Tower II SE (fronts); DIY Clearwave Dynamic 4CC (center); Wharfedale Opus Tri-Surrounds (rear); and VMPS 215 sub

    "God grooves with tubes."

  26. #26

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    Well really I rebuilt them for several reasons...

    1) It was actually cheaper to build completely new speakers than to buy four new caps... ;)

    2) The enclosure just isnt built up to MY standards.

    3) Theres only so much cloth + cap you can take after a certain bit

    4) I plan on collecting drivers and crossovers over time as they appear cheap - then I'll have two* pairs ;)

    What differences? I really expect tighter bass and clearer highs.

    The last rebuild I did I heard clearer highs possibly due to the lack of grill cloth (assuming you believe the common knowledge that cloth dampens the highs around 13khz) --- but I didnt brace the last enclosure near to this extent...

    So I think alot of the improvements, if there is any will be in the lower midbass and the bass itself and possibly the high end.

    I think I may get a change in imaging as well considering my speakers are mirror imaged where-as DTs are not... so I am interested in hearing how they sound... this will be a hit or miss and I am really taking a chance investing the money in completeing them without hearing them first. But really, Im at the point where I HAVE to complete this project regardless... I cant keep doing half way jobs - I need to know how my stuff can look the whole 9 yards...

    Anyways, yep I plan to put the midbasses, tweets, etc in there once I am done - I'm expecting around 2 weeks till finished...

    6-8 days to finish painting them... then maybe 3 or 4 for clear coating...
    Last edited by VR3; 01-11-2006 at 08:51 PM.
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  27. #27

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    Two weeks? Hurry up, dude, I'm interested in hearing the results.

    You may have an interesting business in the works -- rebuilding cabinets. Custom made, higher build quality, better SQ (hopefully), and cheaper than buying new speakers. Hmmmm.
    HT/2-channel Rig: Sony 50 LCD TV; Toshiba HD-A2 DVD player; Emotiva LMC-1 pre/pro; Rogue Audio M-120 monoblocks (modded); Placette RVC; Emotiva LPA-1 amp; Bada HD-22 tube CDP (modded); VMPS Tower II SE (fronts); DIY Clearwave Dynamic 4CC (center); Wharfedale Opus Tri-Surrounds (rear); and VMPS 215 sub

    "God grooves with tubes."

  28. #28

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    Its not a very fast process...

    I could speed up the process - paint them standing up, but this could cause runs and Id rather not even risk it as smoothing out a run in truck bed liner is by far from being a simple task... lol

    As for this becoming a business, Id love that! Thatd be so cool...

    These are definitely built like a tank... far superrior to the OEM version - heck the bracing along keeps the speaker together... lol
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  29. #29

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    Here they are with the truck bed liner all the way on - they are complete in that sense...

    I still gotta sand down/chip off the grit where the panels are going - plane and cut the panels... then glue them on - then about 2 or so days of clear coat...
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  30. #30

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    Well I broke down and finally decided to just go ahead and hook them up.

    I also decided Im not going to clear coat the truck bed liner - because I think it looks pretty darn good as is - why mess with it. The Cedar will be clear coated though...

    Anyways...

    They sound similar to before -- the highs seem much more defined than before, before it seemed like one side was always kind of blurred - which I am going to have to blame on the non-mirror image - because with the mirror image the soundstage is alot clearer and the highs are much more defined...

    The bass is great as well, much tighter than before - about the same authority... I can still play my stuff without a sub and get adequate bass...

    Overall I think this was a success.

    Oh yeah, these enclosures do NOT vibrate! ;)
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