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  1. #1

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    Default vintage amp for 2 chan system......

    I'm looking at a few old integrated amps on ebay for my budget 2 channel rig.

    what are your opinions on the 70s- early 80's big boys


    here are some examples (ebay item numbers)

    270120617773
    http://cgi.ebay.ca/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?...7773%26fvi%3D1
    290114976376
    http://cgi.ebay.ca/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?...6376%26fvi%3D1

    120119700446
    http://cgi.ebay.ca/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?...0446%26fvi%3D1
    330119767279
    http://cgi.ebay.ca/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?...7279%26fvi%3D1
    260117315761
    http://cgi.ebay.ca/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?...5761&rd=1&rd=1
    260117549541
    http://cgi.ebay.ca/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?...9541&rd=1&rd=1

    which of these would you buy?
    Last edited by JimBRICK; 05-16-2007 at 03:36 PM. Reason: added links
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  2. #2

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    Jim, it's alot easier for us if you post direct links.
    'Political Correctness'.........defined

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  3. #3

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    I thought you were sold on the Jolida, eh?

    Here's one that's a no brainer, http://cls.audiogon.com/cgi-bin/cls....ube&1184508374
    'Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a turd by the clean end."

  4. #4

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    I was but wifey says CHEAP CHEAP CHEAP
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  5. #5

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    Have you browsed the Canuck Audio Mart? I found a fine vintage receiver there not too long ago.
    Husband, Father, Son, Brother, Friend.

  6. #6

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    Jim,
    This kind of talk is what they thrive on over at Audiokarma.org. They love their vintage Japanese solid state and you will probably find discussion on each and every one of those amps.

    In general, most everything from the late 70s will be better than most of the stuff from the 80s, with a few exceptions (Sony ES, Kenwood LO series, Pioneer SPEC).

    You can also expect that most vintage pieces will need a little work to get them up to full potential. Unless its already been done, they usually need pots and switches cleaned with deoxit. DC Offset and bias should be checked before first use. Tuners almost always need to be cleaned and realigned. In addition, any electrolytic capacitors are probably going to need replacement in a fairly short time. Vintage gear can be lots of fun, but at the same time, its a risk because service manuals can be difficult or impossible to find, and parts availability can often be very limited if there is a problem. Good luck if you go that route.

  7. #7

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    Quote Originally Posted by F1nut View Post
    I thought you were sold on the Jolida, eh?

    Here's one that's a no brainer, http://cls.audiogon.com/cgi-bin/cls....ube&1184508374
    hmmm....


    hmmmmmm......
    Main HT
    Magnepan 1.6QR fronts, POlk R15 surrounds, Pioneer SC-25, Parasound Halo A23, Oppo BDP-105, Panasonic TC-P60ZT60, Sony PS3, Apple TV

    Bedroom System
    Polk Blackstone TL3, Polk PSWi225 Wireless Sub, HK 3490 Integrated, Oppo BDP-103, Sharp Aquos 32" TV, Apple TV

    Office Rig
    27" iMac w/Amarra, AudioQuest Dragonfly 1.2, Focal XS Book, Schiit Valhalla, Cypher Labs Theorem 720, Philips Fidelio X1, Sennheiser HD600, HiFiMan HE-500, B&W P7, LG 47LM7600, Sony PS3, Apple TV

  8. #8

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    I'm talking to a guy about a technics su-v6
    the net says this is a class A what does that mean exactely. he's really proud its a class A


    150 TRUE WATTS RMS TOTAL OUTPUT (75+75); SOUNDS MUCH LOUDER THAN MODERN AMPS WITH THE SAME RATINGS
    - DISTORTION ALWAYS BELOW 0.005 !
    - PURE DC CLASS AA NON-SWITCHING AMPIFIER DESIGN - CLEAN SOUND EVEN AT FULL OUTPUT!
    - QUALITY PARTS THROUGHOUT
    - 2 PAIRS OF SPEAKERS OUT
    - HANDLES ANY LOAD 4-16 OHMS
    - AUX, PHONO, TUNER, TAPE1, TAPE2
    - MM/MC PHONO SELECTOR
    - CAN BE USED WITH CD/DVD PLAYER OR COMPUTER
    - TONE DEFEAT FOR STRAIGHT DC OPERATION!
    - SUBSONIC & HIGH FILTERS
    - STEREO/MONO & LOUDNESS CONTROLS
    - SOFT RELAY-BASED START
    - MULTI-PROTECTION LEVELS
    2 CHANNEL
    Speaker - Klipsch Heresy II
    Under construction

  9. #9

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    I just gave my son my 1983 Yamaha A-700. It worked great for years and still does (though it could use some deoxit) and I put 100s of hours on it. I think it was 100 watts a channel at 8 ohms. Here is an online eval of the int. amp: "I have and am using an A-700. You have probably 'analyzed' the sound for yourself by now. I classify it as neutral - not warm like a Sansui AU-717, not dry/bright like, for instance, an Audiosource amp.

    The A-700's Auto-Class A button lets the amp run in pure class A up to 5 watts/ch RMS, above which the amp goes to class AB operation. The unit can get very hot in class A, and I haven't run it that way since the first day I owned it. If you haven't had the cover off yet, you will be impressed with the organization and neatness of the component layout."

    Class A supposedly runs much "cleaner" than other classes but gets very hot if run at higher volumes. You will get much better response from others. There also was an A-1000.

    There was one on ebay not long
    Here's link to discussion.

    http://forum.ecoustics.com/bbs/messages/1/42511.html
    Last edited by NeilGabriel; 05-16-2007 at 05:27 PM.

  10. #10

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    It has the new class A synchro-bias.
    Hmm.....I wasn't aware that there was a "new class A." Class A has always been Class A and they run hot even at idle.

    Out of your choices, (personally, I'd tell the wifey to get her bitch ass in the kitchen and bake me some pie while I buy the Jolida) I like the Pioneer SA-7700. Nothing says vintage like a faux wood chassis and VU meters.
    'Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a turd by the clean end."

  11. #11

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    I also found this

    http://cgi.ebay.ca/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?...MEWA:IT&ih=011

    this looks awesome
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  12. #12

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    I have a minty fresh, vintage Sony receiver if that tickles your fancy. I'll get it out, take a couple pics and find the model number.

    Jesse - It's just a marketing blurb from Technics.
    Last edited by dorokusai; 05-16-2007 at 07:05 PM.

  13. #13

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    uh oh Crazy Doro is back

    if Doro's selling something its always worth a look
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  14. #14

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    out of the six you have there, i would go with the jvc or technics. i myself if looking for a intergrated amp would go with a sansui 717,719,or 919. the best out there for 1977-1981

  15. #15

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    Quote Originally Posted by JimBRICK View Post
    I'm talking to a guy about a technics su-v6
    the net says this is a class A what does that mean exactely. he's really proud its a class A


    150 TRUE WATTS RMS TOTAL OUTPUT (75+75); SOUNDS MUCH LOUDER THAN MODERN AMPS WITH THE SAME RATINGS
    - DISTORTION ALWAYS BELOW 0.005 !
    - PURE DC CLASS AA NON-SWITCHING AMPIFIER DESIGN - CLEAN SOUND EVEN AT FULL OUTPUT!
    - QUALITY PARTS THROUGHOUT
    - 2 PAIRS OF SPEAKERS OUT
    - HANDLES ANY LOAD 4-16 OHMS
    - AUX, PHONO, TUNER, TAPE1, TAPE2
    - MM/MC PHONO SELECTOR
    - CAN BE USED WITH CD/DVD PLAYER OR COMPUTER
    - TONE DEFEAT FOR STRAIGHT DC OPERATION!
    - SUBSONIC & HIGH FILTERS
    - STEREO/MONO & LOUDNESS CONTROLS
    - SOFT RELAY-BASED START
    - MULTI-PROTECTION LEVELS
    I used sell this line back in the late 80's. Not much to say other than very very average. "New Class A" is strictly a marketing term meaning it might have been biased to run slighlty longer in psuedo-class A (I somehow doubt it) They run very hot mostly because of lack of proper heat sinking (usually where the bean counters cut corners) Soft relay and Multi protection are just other words for current limiting because there are few output tranny's, not enough heat sinking and regular output runs the tranny close to max.

    Certainly not a dog perhaps worth $60-80 for a 2ndary system. Get an Adcom GFA 535 and equivalent pre and keep the Technics as a paper weight.

    JMHO

    H9
    "Appreciation of audio is a completely subjective human experience. Measurements can provide a measure of insight, but are no substitute for human judgment. Why are we looking to reduce a subjective experience to objective criteria anyway? The subtleties of music and audio reproduction are for those who appreciate it. Differentiation by numbers is for those who do not".--Nelson Pass

    Pass Aleph 30; Eastern Electric Mini Max; Adcom GDA600; MIT S3/Z Pc; SDA 1C; Squeezebox; Tubes add soul!

  16. #16

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    see thats why I like this forum, people who know their **** are here.
    thanks guys

    I'm waiting to see what doro has first.
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  17. #17

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    Last edited by JimBRICK; 05-16-2007 at 08:56 PM.
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  18. #18

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    Quote Originally Posted by dorokusai View Post
    Jesse - It's just a marketing blurb from Technics.
    Thanks Mark, I was just being polite. ;)
    'Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a turd by the clean end."

  19. #19

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    i like the Pioneer amp too.. are you looking for a power amp or an integrated amp?

  20. #20

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    integrated to run my phono and cd player

    I want all old stuff in it.
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  21. #21

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    Quote Originally Posted by F1nut View Post
    Thanks Mark, I was just being polite. ;)
    Amen :D

  22. #22

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    Seeing as the CD player was introduced in 1983 to the US market and by todays standards, really suck, you may want to rethink, "I want all old stuff in it."
    'Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a turd by the clean end."

  23. #23

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    Quote Originally Posted by F1nut View Post
    Seeing as the CD player was introduced in 1983 to the US market and by todays standards, really suck, you may want to rethink, "I want all old stuff in it."
    Not only that but most, because of their age, will most certainly have mechanical issues. If not now, shortly, and parts are either non-existent or very expensive because of very short supply. It's a big gamble. Plus there are so few from 80's that sound good.
    "Appreciation of audio is a completely subjective human experience. Measurements can provide a measure of insight, but are no substitute for human judgment. Why are we looking to reduce a subjective experience to objective criteria anyway? The subtleties of music and audio reproduction are for those who appreciate it. Differentiation by numbers is for those who do not".--Nelson Pass

    Pass Aleph 30; Eastern Electric Mini Max; Adcom GDA600; MIT S3/Z Pc; SDA 1C; Squeezebox; Tubes add soul!

  24. #24

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    nah I got my old Nakamichi cd player
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  25. #25

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    I'd go w/ the Pioneers first, Technics second. I wouldn't touch JVC if it were free. I had a customer service issue with JVC over 20 years ago that left such a bad taste in my mouth, I haven't, and will not own anything JVC.

    Transport: Oppo BDP-103/USB HDD (flac)
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    Cables: Kimber Hero/8TC; DH Labs D-75

  26. #26

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    No affilliation. I bought something from them a few years ago...speakers I think.

    http://www.oaktreevintage.com/Stereo_Receivers.htm

  27. #27

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    Neil I'll check that out when I get home. I'm at work right now and they have a net blocker so I cant surf. Thank god were a polk dealer so the website stays open
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  28. #28

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    Jim - Hey Canuck, shoot me an email. Unrelated, but I have something tube based that you will love :D

  29. #29

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    cant email I'm at work til 8. I'll use the form from here :)
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  30. #30

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    talk about a budget 2 channel rig
    mirage speakers 30 bucks
    nackamichi cdp 17 bucks
    yamaha turntable 25 bucks

    now just need my power and I'm done
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