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  1. #1

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    Default sub or no sub.....

    What's you guys opinions on subs in the 2ch rig??

    I am as a general rule, not really in favor of it. However, if I could score a DQ-1W and crossover for the DQ's I probably would.

    A powered sub? I wouldn't say never, but HIGHLY unlikely. I dunno, it just doesn't seem to fit to me.....and my heart is in my 2ch rig because I got music in my sole.

    Al Jolson
    Last edited by TroyD; 05-21-2002 at 04:39 PM.
    I ALWAYS use an ass-gasket. Never hover because of splash down and back splatter. I also float landing pad made from TP for a soft landing to avoid the above. One can never be too cautious when dealing with the general public. - RonP

  2. #2

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    (for 2ch)

    NO powered towers
    NO powered subs

    MAYBE a matched passive with a custom network, passed right at the main speakers 3db down point.....

    Why? those little plate amps (high cheese factor) on powered towers and most powered subs probably won't hold a candle to your 'main' amplification.

    That's how I hear it anyway

    Cheers,
    Russ

    Troy, you may have sole (filet of?), but man I have big BASE. You know, boom boom boom?
    Last edited by RuSsMaN; 05-21-2002 at 04:42 PM.

  3. #3

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    Default

    Going to make my move for the LSi15's, and eschew the sub as a result; I think they will be able to hold their own. Although, if I happend to get the cash together for a Velodyne HGS series sub, well, enough said.

    Doesn't it depend on what you're running for mains, whether or not the sub is what you want/need?

    With some tweaking, you can get a powered sub to blend in well with your speakers.

  4. #4

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    let me rephrase.....there will NEVER be a powered sub in my 2ch rig. There will also NEVER be a powered tower in my house.....

    I could see the sub if you wanted to augment a pair of bookshelves but I would opt for a passive.....In my case, the only way I would do it is with the Dahlquist passive that was designed for the dq-10. I would say that the DQ-10 is solid to about 40hz which I'm pretty happy with though.....

    I'm confident of my amps ability to power anything you could get in through the door:D

    BDT

    Russ, you got LOTS of BASE, weebles wobble but they don't fall down....
    I ALWAYS use an ass-gasket. Never hover because of splash down and back splatter. I also float landing pad made from TP for a soft landing to avoid the above. One can never be too cautious when dealing with the general public. - RonP

  5. #5

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    Orange, obviously it's to each his own and I certainly don't think that sub augmentation is a bad thing....I just, for my own tastes, prefer to not have a powered sub...
    I ALWAYS use an ass-gasket. Never hover because of splash down and back splatter. I also float landing pad made from TP for a soft landing to avoid the above. One can never be too cautious when dealing with the general public. - RonP

  6. #6

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    The problem is, to get a truly full-range passive speaker (that's any good) you're going to spend upwards of $10,000. With this in mind, a good powered subwoofer starts to make sense.

    Aaron

  7. #7

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    Default It depends on your music.

    Most music wouldn't be a problem. My 10B mains go pretty low, but when I listen to Bach or some techno I prefer the sub added.

    I have NEVER considered powered towers. Some day I might but there needs to be improvements.

    Why the hesitation to a powered sub? I can understand the integration issue (sensitivity, crossover fq., etc) and if you can get DQ-1W this would be an obvious answer. But I think there are some splendid powered subs out there. Then again there's something about putting the DQ-10s on some old JBL (dual 15s) bass-bins that has me :Ding.
    Make it Funky! :)

  8. #8

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    10K????

    Man, you say some funny **** sometimes Aaron. Have you heard DQ10's? Have you heard Carver Amazings? Have you heard older Thiels?

    How about SDA's? How about the big Infinities from the late 70's, early 80's? How about some AR303's?

    Cheers,
    Russ

  9. #9

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    Hmm, let's see, do they make any of those speakers any more???

    Aaron

  10. #10

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    Hmmm, how is that relative?

    Ok, want new? How about B&W 603 s3, how about JmLab Chorus 725? How about Tannoy Revolution R3's? How about PSB Stratus Gold? How about Polk LSi15's? How about Canton Nestor 803's?

    Thanks for playing, I forgot, if its not shiney and new, with a 10K tag and name you can't pronounce, it really isn't worth it, is it? ;)

    Cheers,
    Russ
    Last edited by RuSsMaN; 05-21-2002 at 05:29 PM.

  11. #11

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    I agree Mark, I think you are absolutely right, there are great subs out there......

    This is just a matter of personal taste and my desire for a more traditional 2ch rig, I suppose.

    As far as the 10K passive speaker thing.......ahhhhh, nope. One that is dead flat to 20hz, maybe. A pleasing full range speaker that holds it's own in to the mid 30's can be had, new, for way less.

    BDT
    I ALWAYS use an ass-gasket. Never hover because of splash down and back splatter. I also float landing pad made from TP for a soft landing to avoid the above. One can never be too cautious when dealing with the general public. - RonP

  12. #12

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    Default Russ

    full range = 20Hz. @ -3dB

    Care to try again?

    Aaron

  13. #13

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    Many above get down in the 20's, if not a solid 20 itself....

    And as far as 20Hz goes....what affordable powered sub does that anyway? I can't think of many, there is a handfull that will though.......

    Why -3db, why not -6db, or 0? Is this from your 'pocket audio dictionary'?

    Cheers,
    Russ

    Aaron, you know I'm hackin on ya....(to an extent). You ditch the sony yet, or are you still all barrio'd up?
    Last edited by RuSsMaN; 05-21-2002 at 05:53 PM.

  14. #14

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    My point is, you can take a $2-3k speaker, add a sub for under $2k and be at half the price (or less) than a passive full-range speaker, not to mention the fortune you'd have to spend on amplification for the passive speaker. And I highly doubt any of those speakers can hit 20Hz. at -3dB.

    Aaron

  15. #15

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    20hz, schawenty-hz

    For music, it's overkill anyway. Give me a speaker (DQ-10) that has a flawless midrange and acceptable bass, mid 30's and the presence of a big speaker and you gots a deal.

    A flat 20hz response means ZERO to me. Underline me. In a sub or a speaker......quality, not quantity. As gidrah noted, if it's musical, it will make noise.

    And if anyone says anything about Revel (ahem, Aaron) I'll throttle ya. Go listen to a pair of DQ-10's and then we will talk.

    BDT
    Last edited by TroyD; 05-21-2002 at 06:04 PM.
    I ALWAYS use an ass-gasket. Never hover because of splash down and back splatter. I also float landing pad made from TP for a soft landing to avoid the above. One can never be too cautious when dealing with the general public. - RonP

  16. #16

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    Sure, the money issue is relative. And the PSB and Canton will get 'down there', especially once they are in a room...(most specs are Anechoic chamber)

    Even on the Tannoy (rated to 39 I -think-) were suprisingly full and low, and easily stood on their own musically....

    Cheers,
    Russ

  17. #17

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    For me I like a sub for a more "real" sound with a very low crossover point. Just enough to add that little bit of realism. Actually I have been much happier with the Clark Synthesis transducers mounted to the main frame of the house. They add a little "bump" to the presentation without adding any color to the sound. For the past 6 months I have listened without a sub but I think it sounds a little more "real" with a little something to back up the mains. After all, isn't "real" what we are after here?
    madmax

  18. #18

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    I hear a lot about the DQ-10's and I was wondering what a pair goes for.

  19. #19

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    You can bag em for $350-$500 a pair in good shape.

    -R

  20. #20
    Spaceman Spiff
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    Just my RT55s, no sub.


    Peace Out~:D
    If...
    Ron dislikes a film = go out and buy it.
    Ron loves a film = don't even rent.

  21. #21

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    the only bad thing of having tower with no powerd sub is that the latest cds have a lot of low frequency recorded in them below 20hz so, lot of the tower speakers rolloff in the high 30hz and you lose a lot of musical information or the towers distort and muddy the music. towers are all right with the older cds only, that what i think. it depends on the software.
    Last edited by joe logston; 05-21-2002 at 07:47 PM.
    . rt-7 mains
    rt-20p surounds
    cs-400i front center
    cs-350 ls rear center
    2 energy take 5, efects
    2- psw-650 , subs
    1- 15" audiosource sub

    lets all go to the next ces.

  22. #22

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    SDA SRS 2.3TL

    I don't need no stinkin' sub!

  23. #23

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    ......and Bingo was his name-o.
    Make it Funky! :)

  24. #24

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    Actually, you guys shouldn't be using tweeters. When you crossover from the midwoofer to the tweeter it happens somewhere between 1Khz to 3.5Khz which is right in the voice ranges and causes a lot of problems. It would be better to use a midwoofer driver with a fuller range which would reach up to 13khz to 15khz and not use a tweeter at all. This idea is not really much different than using a subwoofer or not.
    madmax
    Vinyl, the final frontier...

    Avantgarde horns, 300b tubes, thats the kinda crap I want... :D

  25. #25

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    I see the point you are making mm, I don't think the tweeter analogy is dead on, but I get what you are saying.

    Would you not rather have a passive sub, driven by the same (or identical) amp as the mains over a powered sub? My logic may be way off base, but it seems to make sense to me.

    Cheers,
    Russ
    Check your lips at the door woman. Shake your hips like battleships. Yeah, all the white girls trip when I sing at Sunday service.

  26. #26

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    I was commenting on sub vs no sub. Whether it is self powered or active I don't care so long as the amp driving it matches well. In my present active system I pick the amp that blends the best but if you use a self powered sub you are limited if it is not a good match. As for passive subs I would not use one at this point because I don't want to impose any addition duties on the amp driving the left and right channels. I may be confused at the different types. I think we are talking about the same thing.
    Are the below classifications correct?

    Passive-Driven by the same amp that is driving the channel

    Self powered-Has amp built in to sub

    Active-Has external dedicated amp

    madmax

  27. #27

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    Roger that. We are on the same page....

    -R

  28. #28

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    but a couple of things, the built in amp is designed for the sub driver and matched on the better subs they are a class d amp witch is the best for bass,and with a powered sub you take off the strain from the main amp and it will run the mids and highs a lot better. the only problem is finding the right sub, and set up problems .
    Last edited by joe logston; 05-22-2002 at 07:49 PM.
    . rt-7 mains
    rt-20p surounds
    cs-400i front center
    cs-350 ls rear center
    2 energy take 5, efects
    2- psw-650 , subs
    1- 15" audiosource sub

    lets all go to the next ces.

  29. #29

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    Many audiophiles want subs to their sysem so they can here ALL their music.

    I depends on the speakers and the sub. My klipsch needs a really loud sub to keep up, or else it will sound like crap. Of course, a cerwin-vega! is loud but sounds like crap. And I can't afford a good Muisc sub. So I'll go without. I feel it would be easier to get a sub for Polks because they are not as loud, and are "smooth."

    I heard some a little while ago, and are very nice. (Rti800's) Wouldn't trade them for my rocking Klipsch, but they are good. I have found polk subs to be more "musical" then the subs sold in places like future shop.

    What about something like a Paradigm Servo15? Sopposed to have VERY clean deep bass. Not just BOOM.

    How many can afford Dynaudio Evidence towers? Subs help.

  30. #30

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    matthew....go find a Paradigm dealer and go check out the servo-15. Very cool stuff.

    BDT
    I ALWAYS use an ass-gasket. Never hover because of splash down and back splatter. I also float landing pad made from TP for a soft landing to avoid the above. One can never be too cautious when dealing with the general public. - RonP

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