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  1. #1

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    Default Any info on Polk Coax MM6520's?

    The used car I just bought came with Polk Audio MM6520 coax 6.5" speakers, vintage circa 1991. Can anyone fill me in on the specs for these things? My searches on the Polk Car Electronics page and in this forum have come up empty. I'm looking for sensitivity, impedance, RMS power range, and so on.

    The head unit driving these things is a Clarion DB336MP, and when I turn up the volume mid-way, the speakers distort like crazy. Either the head unit is too weak and hits its clipping range before the volume gets high, or the speakers are bolluxed - they look like they should handle this lo-end head unit. I'm still going through the car, so not sure if there is a wiring problem, or a zorched crossover, or if the HU is connected to an amp (maybe miswired) - who knows.

    Thanks!
    Rod

  2. #2

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    best bet is to call polk customer service, 800-377-7655, they'll fix you up
    It's not good, very fundamentally simply not good. - geolemon

    "Its not good enough until we have real-time fearmongering. I want my fear mongered as it happens." - Shizelbs

  3. #3

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    Something is wrong somewhere. As crappy a power source a head unit is, it shouldnt be distorting at mid way volume.
    polkaudio sound quality competitor since 2005
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  4. #4

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    Yeah, I know. There's no low end to speak of, even at louder volumes, and at pretty low volumes (which I guess is a relative term), the Polks are dirtier than you can imagine.

    The Clarion is advertised as about 17Wx4 continuous, while I THINK the Polk MM6520's are rated at something like 100W continuous. Its been a while since I mucked about in audio performance, but if the head unit were the problem, I'd expect to have to turn it WAY up to get some power to the speakers, but run into bad amp clipping as volume went up.

    But right now I get BAD low frequency distortion at what I'd describe as about 1/3 volume... almost like a sub-woofer signal is being fed to the Polks.

    If the Polks are a lot lower than 100W continuous, like say 10W, then maybe the head unit is overdriving them - but the Polks are pretty heavy units, with a big magnet, reasonable quality rubber suspension ring, heavy duty cone frame, so I expect they can handle some heat. Hell, I installed 5x7 coax speakers in the door of my last car and drove them with an Eclipse 3424 head unit direct (no amp), and they were great as far up the volume knob as I could stand it!

    So - I'm left with bad wiring, bad crossovers, or bad amp (if there IS an amp)... or I guess the Polks could have been cooked by the PO.

    Rod

  5. #5

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    Reached tech support this morning (nice fella!):

    MM6520 (w/ coax tweeter)
    - Range: 35-20kHz, Power: 5-100W RMS, Imped: 4 ohm, Sensitivity: 90db @ 1 m

    - approx recommended input power: 50W RMS per speaker

    - mtg hole: approx 5 5/8", mtg depth: approx 2 5/8"

    Rubber suspension ring holes can be repaired with small dabs of silicon front and back.

    Should be mounted on flat surface to avoid misalignment of moving coil through air space.

    Poor base response could be due to something as simple as phase inversion of one speaker relative to other.

    Tech said he used to have them, and drove them with 50W x 4 amp and loved them.

    So - unless the speakers are physically damaged, it appears they're repairable! Hooray!

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    w00t! make sure you keep us updated
    It's not good, very fundamentally simply not good. - geolemon

    "Its not good enough until we have real-time fearmongering. I want my fear mongered as it happens." - Shizelbs

  7. #7

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    Quote Originally Posted by f11 View Post
    Reached tech support this morning (nice fella!):

    MM6520 (w/ coax tweeter)
    - Range: 35-20kHz, Power: 5-100W RMS, Imped: 4 ohm, Sensitivity: 90db @ 1 m

    - approx recommended input power: 50W RMS per speaker

    - mtg hole: approx 5 5/8", mtg depth: approx 2 5/8"

    Rubber suspension ring holes can be repaired with small dabs of silicon front and back.

    Should be mounted on flat surface to avoid misalignment of moving coil through air space.

    Poor base response could be due to something as simple as phase inversion of one speaker relative to other.

    Tech said he used to have them, and drove them with 50W x 4 amp and loved them.

    So - unless the speakers are physically damaged, it appears they're repairable! Hooray!
    I know this is an old thread, but If you're still subscribed, I'd like to know if the mounting on a flat surface thing means rear deck mount only i.e. I've got a flat mount panel in my doors and I have access to a pair of these to replace the factory speakers in a 1996 Toyota Camry Wagon. I'd be mounting them in the door and I'll pass if they are a horizontal flat mount only, but if they can handle vertical flat mount I think I'll get them.

    Thanks for any info you can provide, and by the way, how did they last for you?

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