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  1. #61

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    I use either a 45W or 15W point tipped soldering iron, with a clip on heat sink between the component lead and the component, for board work. I have an 800W soldering gun that I have only used for soldering wire to Cardas binding posts, as the lower watt irons were inadequate for the job.

    I would not use a gun for board level work because they are more difficult to handle in cramped quarters and, most importantly, the extra heat can burn the board, damage parts, and cause board traces to lift.

    You should also use a good quality solder like Cardas Quad-Eutectic solder.
    Last edited by DarqueKnight; 01-04-2008 at 03:14 PM.
    "Polk SDA-SRSs are hopelessly out of date both sonically and technologically... I see no value whatsoever in older SDA speakers."~Audio Asylum Member
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  2. #62

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    Yep - I ordered the Cardis Quad solder along with the Sonicaps/Mills. Maybe I'll try replacing the tips on the cheapo irons I have and test them with some sacrificial parts from rat shack before I touch the real thing. If the gun will be too hot for the board, then blowtorch I use for the plumbing work is definitely out of the question ;-)

  3. #63

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    I bought a soldering station from RS for like $20 something. It has a 20 watt and 40 watt setting. A spring like holder for the iron and a sponge to clean the tip off with. It works for me. They also have all the other accessories if you like to accessorize for your soldiering. I have yet to buy a lifetime supply expensive solder yet.

    Scott
    I like speakers that are bigger than a small refrigerator but smaller than a big refrigerator:D

  4. #64

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    Hmmm, think I'm going to stop off at the rat shack after work, there's one right on the way home. I can do $20...

  5. #65

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    The cheap pencil iron will work best. As Raife said it's close quarters in there and the Weller gun would be awkward to use. De soldering is the tough part. Good luck and take some pictures for us:D
    Last edited by schwarcw; 01-04-2008 at 06:53 PM.
    Carl

  6. #66

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    Camera's ready. Cheap pencil iron's ready. I'm ready. Just need Mr. UPS dude to HOOK ME UP!!!!

  7. #67

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    Carl brought up a good point about desoldering. I use a desoldering iron that has a suction bulb attached that can suck away melted solder. Makes things a lot easier.
    "Polk SDA-SRSs are hopelessly out of date both sonically and technologically... I see no value whatsoever in older SDA speakers."~Audio Asylum Member
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  8. #68

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    Jesse and I used a de soldering bulb to suck the solder away to remove the caps and resisters and the some copper de soldering braid to clean up an extra solder.

    Sounds romantic doesn't it.
    I like speakers that are bigger than a small refrigerator but smaller than a big refrigerator:D

  9. #69

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    I've got desoldering braid and a suction bulb. So...

    Carmera is ready. Cheap pencil iron is ready. Desoldering braid is ready. Solder sucker is ready. Forgot to mention that the SPEAKERS ARE READY. Also forgot to mention that 18g solid copper for jumper and lead extender is ready. Alligator clip for heat sink is ready. I'm ready. JUST NEED MR. UPS DUDE TO HOOK ME UP!!!!

  10. #70

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    Actually, I have another question while I have the attention of all the solder gurus, sorry for crapping the thread.

    I've got an NAD 2200 amp and an NAD 1700 preamp. Great 20-year oldish gear. I'm interested in replacing the stock power cords (polarized 2-blade, probably 18g wire) with some beefy new power cables. I was checking out the IEC stuff at sonic craft. I don't the gear is worthy about going nuts, I'm not looking to spend more on the power cord than I did on the amp...

    The Furutech Inlet seems reasonably priced to mount on the amp, with a bit of Dremel work:

    http://www.soniccraft.com/products/c...tech_inlet.htm

    Just wondering what the guidelines are for converting from 2-blade polarized to a grounded wire? Where do I attach the ground to inside the amp? Just to the chassis? How would I know which pole should go to which side on the IEC connector.

    Again, sorry for crapping the thread, happy to start another if you all would prefer.

    Thanks...

  11. #71

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    schwarcw and DarqueNight - a quick thanks on the desoldering tip. I'm going to start up a new thread for my TL upgrade, and I'll post plenty of pictures, but I already got started even though my Sonicaps haven't arrived yet, figured I'd get done whatever I could over the weekend to save some time when the caps arrive. I went on a little shopping spree in Radio Shack, and immediately saw the usefulness of a desoldering iron, especially for $10.99. I'm going to start up a new thread for my TL upgrade, and I'll post plenty of pictures, but I already got started even though my Sonicaps haven't arrived yet. Doing one XO at a time so my template remains intact, I used it to desolder the first XO, and the benefits of using a desoldering iron are incredibly obvious. Thanks for the advice!!!

  12. #72

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    Quote Originally Posted by nspindel View Post
    I've got desoldering braid and a suction bulb. So...

    Carmera is ready. Cheap pencil iron is ready. Desoldering braid is ready. Solder sucker is ready. Forgot to mention that the SPEAKERS ARE READY. Also forgot to mention that 18g solid copper for jumper and lead extender is ready. Alligator clip for heat sink is ready. I'm ready. JUST NEED MR. UPS DUDE TO HOOK ME UP!!!!
    My RD0198's and all the goodies from Sonic Craft arrived today. Woo hoo! Also ordered new inductors from Parts Express, those should arrive tomorrow.

    I don't have a huge amount of time to work on this stuff during the week (gotta pay for this stuff!), but I'll do a bit in the evenings, and then probably have a very busy weekend.

    I'm going to start up a new thread with all of my mods, with lots of pictures. Stay tuned for the arrival of the newest set of SDA-2B TL's....

    Man these sonicaps are BIG!!! The 30uF is a monster.

  13. #73

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    If you haven't seen my new thread:

    http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?t=62106

  14. #74

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    Quote Originally Posted by DarqueKnight View Post
    Jesse,

    Did you experience an improvement in bass response when you did your 4.1TL mod?
    Quote Originally Posted by F1nut View Post
    Yes, quite a bit actually.
    That is good to hear.
    Do you think it had anything to do with putting quality caps on the 40uf value capacitor?

  15. #75

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    Quote Originally Posted by Conradicles View Post
    That is good to hear.
    Do you think it had anything to do with putting quality caps on the 40uf value capacitor?
    You know, a lot of folks say that it doesn't matter much what caps you use for the shunt circuit. I disagree, so the answer to your question is yes.

    Larry's rings also make a huge improvement to the bass response.
    'Political Correctness'.........defined

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  16. #76

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    Shunt caps can definitely make a difference.
    "He who fights with monsters should look to it that he himself does not become a monster. And when you gaze long into an abyss the abyss also gazes into you." Friedrich Nietzsche

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