Internal Speaker Wire?

**flynbw01** · 07-30-2002 05:09 PM

Ok, so I snapped one of the binding posts off of one of my f/x500 surronds. I contacted Polk and they sent me a replacement crossover no problem (Thanks)!

Anyway, my basic question is why did I spend good money to buy 14 guage copper speaker wire, gold plated banana plugs; to plug into gold plated binding posts, that once inside the speaker cabinet switches to what looks like 22 guage steel wire to get to the actual drivers and tweeters?? Do any speaker manufacturers use pure copper wire inside the cabinet, or at least wire guage equivalent to my speaker cable?? Is it worth it to soder my own wire inside the speaker cabinet??

Just curious, it seems pointless to run the signal through 14 guage, only to have the last foot of the signal path to be 22 guage (approx) steel.

**F1nut** · 07-30-2002 05:29 PM

Good question.....I think getting as good a signal to the crossover as possible is the idea. After that I'm not sure it matters. I do know the new Klipsch claim to use Monster wire inside. If you do change your wires, let us know the results.

**joe logston** · 07-30-2002 07:08 PM

i change my internal wires inside my speakers but it did not change the sound.

**mantis** · 07-31-2002 09:57 PM

Has anyone looked inside the Lsi's??I have,
they have what it looks to be 14 or 12 guage older looking Monstercable..like the pink stuff.Even for the tweeter.Thick man thick.(go to a store with a screw driver and watch the face the salesman makes...it's classic....)

Most of Polk rt lines use I believe 16 guage wire.I can't remember it's been a long time since I had one of them open.

**ezc** · 07-31-2002 10:30 PM

I had to replace my crossover in my LSiC. The wire inside looks like 14 guage. I guess the wire size must be ok. Polk had to have it tested to make sure it was ok. Would better wire inside the speaker from the crossover to the speakers make a difference? Or is the run short enough that better wire won't make any type of difference.

**HBombToo** · 08-01-2002 10:19 AM

This is a great post and I hope there will be more responses.

When rebuilding my RTA 8t's a think the guage was 16 so as all the speaker wire posts hit, I had a hard time following or justifying all the elaborate wire settups....

Same principals should apply for internal vrs external runs IMO. I do agree with long runs we should use a heavier gauge wire but for the shorter runs there exixts some flexibility.

**gidrah** · 08-01-2002 11:24 AM

If I ever get around to it, I'd love to replace the internal wires on plenty of my speakers.

Until then I'll consider the fact that thicker wires are only needed for longer runs, skin effect is bad for larger solid wires, strand transfer and corrosion are bad for stranded, and tight connections with plenty of surface area are most important. This puts me in the lazy seat with one more "to do". Larger woofers receive a bigger benefit from wire change than do mids or tweets. It's a matter of wattage needed to move the air. I wouldn't worry about it unless you're considering overhauling more than your rears. If so, I'd look into silver coated copper. Preferably braided 24awg single strand (3x24awg wires that are each insulated). You could forego the silver coating and go with braided CAT5 wires.

**rskarvan** · 08-01-2002 12:58 PM

People need to relax about this wire/interconnect thing.
Its way out of control. Just think how much money Monster exploits from this industry. Its not about wire folks.... its about good sound.

**Ron-P** · 08-01-2002 01:02 PM

Its not about wire folks.... its about good sound.

Better wire = better sound.

Peace Out~:D

**cgravil** · 08-01-2002 06:19 PM

Originally posted by Ron-P

Better wire = better sound.

Do you know that??? are you sure??? Have you tried it?

**DarqueKnight** · 08-01-2002 07:43 PM

On Feb. 15, 1990, I called Polk Audio and asked to speak to someone concerning modifying my SDA-1B speakers.

The fellow I spoke to, Chris, recommended the following changes:

1. Apply foam tape to all the speaker baskets to reduce ringing.

2. Replace mylar and electrolytic capacitors with polypropylene capacitors.

3. Jump (short circuit) the tweeter protection capacitor or replace it with a polypropylene capacitor.

Chris recommended that I NOT do the following:
1. Don't replace the drivers because they were carefully and specifically chosen to sonically blend in with each other.

2. Don't replace the internal wiring because (a) the distances are so short that you won't notice a difference and (b)thicker wire could cause the printed circuit traces on the crossover circuit board to lift off.

**Ron-P** · 08-01-2002 10:06 PM

Do you know that???

Yes I do!

are you sure???

Yep!

Have you tried it?

Sure have!

Let me clarify that I have not done testing with the internal speaker wires, yet, just exterior.

Peace Out~:D

**cgravil** · 08-01-2002 10:42 PM

Having realized that he might have actually been taken seriously in his last post, cgravil wishes to issue the following public service announcement

I was just freakin kidding man.....

**mantis** · 08-02-2002 06:46 AM

Kidding or not........does it make a difference????

There is only one true answer to this question and the person/s listening can make a yes or no anwser.

Saying that,if you have never had a wire shootout,then before you post your opnion,go listen and post your results.This way it's not just your theory or an unexperienced opnion,it's what your ears told you ...I think everyone can respect that.

Personally most of you already know how I feel about wire.....for me I have heard alot of differences between all kinds of wire.
Dan

**HBombToo** · 08-02-2002 10:26 AM

Raife1, excellent post! Does any1 think that those changes could apply to the RTA8T? Seems like they should and I actually considered all but Point 1 froms raife1's post.

Can any1 provide more detail to Ringing? do I just wrap the back of the speaker with the foam tape?

Thanks
HBomb

**DarqueKnight** · 08-02-2002 10:58 AM

"Ringing" refers to vibrations induced in the metal frame (basket) by sound waves inside the speaker cabinet.

Any vibration by anything other than the driver will add some coloration to the sound. That's why it is important to have the cabinets as heavy and vibration-free as practically possible.

I do not think it is necessary to wrap the entire back of the speaker in foam tape. I only applied 1 inch wide strips to the "spokes" of the speaker baskets.

For me, this made a subtle difference in the high frequency accuracy and "naturalness". To see if it makes a difference to you, apply foam tape to one speaker and do a side-by-side comparison.

**HBombToo** · 08-02-2002 01:14 PM

I'm going to try this. Thanks for the tip raife1.

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