f1.. also another question...
Are the passive radiators for front and back tuned for different frequencies? I just realised that when I took them off I didnt note down which one goes where thinking they are exactly the same....
regards
m
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Vist our Online Storef1.. also another question...
Are the passive radiators for front and back tuned for different frequencies? I just realised that when I took them off I didnt note down which one goes where thinking they are exactly the same....
regards
m
If you don't get an answer, I'll email the designer to see if he remembers.
Stan
Stan
Main 2ch:
Polk RTA11TL (RDO198-1, XO and Damping Upgrades)
Denon: DRA-835R, DVD-2910, DRM-800A; Monster HTS3600-MKII, Grado SR-225i
HT:
Denon AVR-888, Polk: RM7, PSW10
Other stuff:
Denon: DRA-825R, DCD-660, DRM-700A, DRR-780; Polk: S8, Monitor 5A & 5B, TSi100; Pioneer CT-6R, PL-530; Ortofon OM5E
Lacquer comes in different sheens straight out of the can, but it really doesn't matter because you have to rub out the finish in order for it to look right. For example, I can spray dead flat lacquer and still be able to turn it into a high gloss sheen by the rubbing out process followed by polishing compounds. The only exception is when the desired sheen is dead flat, you cannot get that any other way than spraying dead flat lacquer.
Any time you see a cheap looking lacquer finish it's because it wasn't rubbed out. The rubbing out process is what most folks don't seem to understand or think is required.
'Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a turd by the clean end."
Thanks mate, yes couldn't work it out... so there are two with the "flat dust cap" that sticks out slightly more than the other ones... I think these go in the front...
Also the sl3000 tweeter... doesn't have + and - marked, do you guys know if it is the smaller or the larger terminal for plus?
Regards
Mark
ok got info:
The Black wire with the narrow Faston connector is the positive wire.
The white wire with the wider Faston connector is the negative wire.
The passive radiator with the smaller mass loaded dust cap is installed on the front baffle just below the bottom 6.5 inch driver.
The heavier mass loaded passive radiator is installed on the back of the cabinet.
I have the same speakers with the RDO's and the crossover upgrades done to them. The sound amazing! Nice looking pair of 15's!
Hey All,
Quick question for Decato or anyone else who may know. Can I use 3 X 3.3UF caps for the 10Uf Cap in this crossover? Is the 0.1uf going to make any audible difference in this crossover configuration? I found a good deal on older Clarity Caps, but 10Uf's were not available. Thanks for your help. Awesome thread. The knowledge here is incredible!
You'll be fine.
"He who fights with monsters should look to it that he himself does not become a monster. And when you gaze long into an abyss the abyss also gazes into you." Friedrich Nietzsche
Agreed. No problems there.
Have fun. Let me know how your modifications turn out.
Face and Decato - Thank You : )
I will post up my X-Over once it's done!
"Decato"Brian, I'm new to the site and found this string on the TLs while Searching for replacement SL3000. I purchased my 15"T"s back In 91 and had tweeter issues almost from day one. I am very interested in XO/RDO198-1 upgrade but am abit lost navigating my way around a Crossover board. Have you by any chance published your upgrade in a "Crossovers For dummies" format. With that I mean step-by-step instruction. Have no problem soldering if I know what I'm soldering...thanks
No, I'm sorry. I posted everything I have online. There are very few parts for the RTA 15TL, so it should be pretty easy to figure out which components to replace. All the originals parts except the inductors are labeled. Feel free to email me (check my profile) if you have additional questions, or perhaps someone else from the forum can offer assistance.
Flynmonkey,
scroll here and you will find the schematic...
http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/show...ELS-except-SDA
The RTA15TL board only has like 3 capacitors, 1 resistor, a polyswitch and the inductors. Pull the binding post cup and the XO should come out with it. You should be able to figure out the labels of the parts on the board by referencing the schematic. If not, snap a picture, and post in the forum and someone will figure it out.
You just desolder the the capacitors, resisitors, and PS (if you choose) and solder the new parts in.
The RDO-198 is a drop in replacement and can be done without the XO upgrade.
doing the passive swap...what about the SW101's that were used in the m7/m10's to use in the fronts and use the sw100's to the rear like you did ?
Last edited by B.A.; 04-23-2012 at 02:20 PM.
WOW!
I just picked up a pair of RTA 15TLs, and a quick search pulled up this wealth of information. I read the comments about blown SL-3000 tweeters, and yes, mine does have a blown tweeter. I was going to try and source another one, but looking at this page, I might have to bite the bullet and order the replacements from Polk.
I also like the idea of upgrading the crossovers. I have a pair of JBL L100s that have the most basic crossovers you ever did see (just 2 caps and 2 L-pads). I replaced them with an upgraded design, but also added some switches so I could switch back to the original ones (albeit with replacement caps). If any of you are on AudioKarma, you can see these speakers by searching for threads started by "leesonic". I wonder if I could do the same with these RTAs...?
I'm looking forward to working on these speakers. Having just sold our house though, space is VERY limited where we are staying right now.
Lee.
So after reading through literally every post in this thread (and discovering that the 15TLs I bought have a blown SL3000 and that the owner wasn't entirely honest when he said "The xovers have VR3 upgrades done to them"...they are upgraded (with newer electrolytics) but it is a hack job and not pretty at all.), I have decided to do the xover mods myself.
It is very likely that I will scrap the stock pcb and use breadboard and wires ala VR3 but with the suggested parts list from the second iteration here.
I have already ordered everything and also had them throw in some hurricane nuts and new gasket material so I can do those things while I have them apart. Sticking with the Solen caps and Mills resistors but am hand winding the 1.75mh 16awg inductor and using a Madisound 0.22mh 19awg.
Ordered the 198s from Helen at Polk CS.
I verified all the other drivers were working as they should.
I don't know if I will be using a plug like above.
Would re-wiring make any difference? I have spools of good quality wire but wasn't sure if it would truly make an audible difference.
That will determine if I use a plug or not.
So all the parts are on the way. The cabinets are stripped down and my wife is pissed because our office looks like a speaker spare parts graveyard.
I will begin to post pictures and progress once I get everything here and start putting stuff together.
"Success is the ability to go from one failure to another with no loss of enthusiasm." Winston Churchill
Last of the parts arrived today...
Looks like speaker and audio rack weekend for me. The wife wanted to do something fun so I bought her a soldering iron. She has only stabbed me with it 4 times so far.
"Success is the ability to go from one failure to another with no loss of enthusiasm." Winston Churchill
Why does everyone have the same table as me????
Have fun!
Can you post pictures of these "Vr3 modifications?" I have only upgraded three sets of RTA15TL and sold one DIY kit and they are all Clarity Cap ESA/PX/Solen type parts. Not to mention all of my RTA15TL use the "Decato Mod" anyways... never have done one without doing it.
This concerns me and I would also like to know who you bought these speakers from and I would like to contact them directly.
Thanks
Last edited by VR3; 02-06-2013 at 02:48 AM.
www.Vr3Mods.com
"No, that's silly talk. Dude, you can't possibly be this audio dumb so quit the act." - Doro
Looks like it's time to sue someone Trey!
OH Boy somebody's about to have some fun!!! Hopefully the wife had it plugged in and on when stabbing a lot less blood she would have to clean up![]()
Trey, hope the information in my PMs helped. I seriously doubt the guy was doing anything more than trying to use it as a selling point. As I said, I knew right away it wasn't your work or even your kit.
As for my upgrade, I am using your stacked layout simply for the cleaner, easier to access each side of the xover part. Everything else I am using was publically displayed here in this thread. I hope this isn't an issue for you.
"Success is the ability to go from one failure to another with no loss of enthusiasm." Winston Churchill
So it sounds like you guys are pleased with how the crossover modifications improve the sound. I like the RTA 15TLs too, and I still have the pair I modified back in early 2007.
VR3, how much do you charge to redo a pair of crossovers with my mods?
By the way, I just finished cleaning up the sound of Monitor 5jr+ Series 2 with a complete redesign of the crossover, now tailored to suit the RD0198-1 tweeter. What a great little speaker it is. It no longer has colored, stuffy mids, but still retains the best attributes of the classic Polk sound!
Cheers,
Brian
Got the old crossovers pulled today but it was a day filled with other projects. Like reassembling my freshly refinished Klipsch KG 3.2s.
Also made 5 cutting boards this weekend and finished assembling my audio racks.
Hopefully, I will be able to focus on them on evenings this week.
"Success is the ability to go from one failure to another with no loss of enthusiasm." Winston Churchill
Got one done...ugly but it works...
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"Success is the ability to go from one failure to another with no loss of enthusiasm." Winston Churchill
Initial impressions...Wow. Just wow.
I will do a full write up in a separate post but the upgrades have made a pretty significant difference.
Thanks Brian.
"Success is the ability to go from one failure to another with no loss of enthusiasm." Winston Churchill
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