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  1. #1

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    Default Receiver Suggestions? (for rti10)

    So I just got a pair of RTI10's fairly cheap from a friend who was moving. That being said I figured I'd decide to get a new home theater receiver since I need one anyways.

    So I've done a bit of research and it seems these have very high-highends, and that Yamaha receivers may be too bright for them.

    What are people recommending for these speakers.

    I'm mostly a music listener, but these will be used for home theater use and act as my front speakers

    I'd like a full featured receiver with HDMI switching etc. and a budget of ~$1000

    Thanks in advance for any recommendations.

  2. #2

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    HK or Outlaw and to do those speakers justice...you'll probably need external amps

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    Call me a newb, but you don't think a regular receiver will power them enough?

    I've never used or know much about "external amps"

    care to elaborate ?

  4. #4

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    So how about an HK AVR645 and 2

    http://www.outlawaudio.com/products/2200.html

    Just going with your logic here. If I have external amps for the speakers, does it really all matter what my receiver is?

    I guess I need to make sure the receiver has pre-amp speaker outs?

    Like I said, I'm kind of new to all this.

  5. #5

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    That sounds like a great start to me, rjinla. I love my HK 635, so the 645 should be just as great + HDMI. . .

    Outlaw is highly supported here. The mono's should do you very well, and, if you upgrade, they'll be simple to resell here.

    The receiver will have preouts. Don't be afraid to shop for one online to save some cash, I got my 635 new for about $650, no tax, no shipping. Don't pay retail for HK stuff, they get discounted big-time online.

    Great AVR, tho.
    Stereo Rig: Hales Revelation 3, Musical Fidelity CD-Pre 24, Forte Model 3 amp, Lexicon RT-10 SACD, MMF-5 w/speedbox, Forte Model 2 Phono Pre, Cardas Crosslink, APC H15, URC MX-950, Lovan Stand
    Bedroom: Samsung HPR-4252, Toshiba HD-A2, HK 3480, Signal Cable, AQ speaker cable, Totem Dreamcatchers, SVS PB10-NSD, URC MX-850

  6. #6

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    Although you would get more out of them with an outside amp., any receiver at the $1000.00 range will work with the 10's. If you want something above the norm, check out AVR's from Rotel.
    Michael


    Samsung 50" HD DLP
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    Denon 2900 DVD
    Lsi9's mains
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    Lsic center
    12.1 SVS driver in 4.53 cuft. tube
    Harmony 880

  7. #7

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    Thanks for the replies.

    Right now I'm just comparing receivers due to wanting hdmi switching and other stuff.

    the HK 645 is $740 at a few places, looks pretty good, and grabbing 2 m2200's would put the price up there. But if it's all worth it, I may just do it.

    Toying with the idea of just getting say the 645, trying them on that, and if it doesnt sound as crisp as I'd like, then grabbing the m2200's. This would do no harm would it?

    I do live in a condo and have to consider my neighbors afterall ;)

  8. #8

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    No harm at all in that plan. Also, stereo amps come up all the time here, on Audiogon, etc. and would provide similar results as the monoblocks for slightly less money. You could get a good used amp for $200-$300, hook it up to the 645, and be set :)

    I just jumped on a very nice Carver M1.0t amp in that price range which puts 200+wpc into 8 ohms.

    Another idea is to get the least expensive HK AVR that has all the features you want (HDMI switching, etc.), then use the savings to get an even better amp. You really can't go wrong with RTi10s, HK AVR, and some separate power amps.
    Stereo Rig: Hales Revelation 3, Musical Fidelity CD-Pre 24, Forte Model 3 amp, Lexicon RT-10 SACD, MMF-5 w/speedbox, Forte Model 2 Phono Pre, Cardas Crosslink, APC H15, URC MX-950, Lovan Stand
    Bedroom: Samsung HPR-4252, Toshiba HD-A2, HK 3480, Signal Cable, AQ speaker cable, Totem Dreamcatchers, SVS PB10-NSD, URC MX-850

  9. #9

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    Andy that was a thought also. I'm going to play with some config ideas etc..

    Thanks for being so helpful guys.

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    Andy, going on your play I can grab say an Onkyo SR604 for ~400 and it has what appears to be all the features I'd need, then grab the 2 m2200's for proper powering..

    How well do Onkyo's play with the RTI10s?
    Last edited by rjinla; 02-01-2007 at 03:44 PM.

  11. #11

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    If you like the sound of the Onkyo, that might be a good choice. the reason HK was originally brought up is because, even just acting as a pre-pro with external amps, is thought to give off a warm sound which can help tame the supposed "brightness" of the RTis.

    So, you may ended up with a brighter sound if you go Onkyo. HK is thought of as fairly musical.

    If you're just looking for a good sounding HT, Onkyo is probably fine, especially once you add some power amps.
    Stereo Rig: Hales Revelation 3, Musical Fidelity CD-Pre 24, Forte Model 3 amp, Lexicon RT-10 SACD, MMF-5 w/speedbox, Forte Model 2 Phono Pre, Cardas Crosslink, APC H15, URC MX-950, Lovan Stand
    Bedroom: Samsung HPR-4252, Toshiba HD-A2, HK 3480, Signal Cable, AQ speaker cable, Totem Dreamcatchers, SVS PB10-NSD, URC MX-850

  12. #12

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    Again thanks for the insight. Looks like I got some options to look into :)

    Looks like even the HK AVR 245 has HDMI switching, and if I get the m2200's I think that might be a decent combo.

    I am piping out to a 1080p samsung dlp, but don't use any component cables for any of my video, so I think I'm ok without any upconverting. Not to bring Video into this thread, but just voicing my concerns.

    Want your opinion on say the 245 + 2 m2200s

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    NAD would be a good AVR to go with the RTi speakers. (I am really surprised that more RTi owners do not use NAD....)

    Also - go used if you can stomach it. You will get alot more bang for your buck....

    Michael

    Edit - Here is a killer AVR that will run most speakers well and is just in your budget. (if you don't mind used)
    Last edited by McLoki; 02-01-2007 at 04:10 PM.
    Mains.............Polk LSi15 (Cherry)
    Center............Polk LSiC (Crossover upgraded)
    Surrounds.......Polk LSi7 (Gloss Black - wood sides removed and crossovers upgraded)
    Subwoofers.....SVS 25-31 CS+ and PC+ (both 20hz tune)
    Pre\Pro...........NAD T163 (Modded with LM4562 opamps)
    Amplifier.........Cinepro 3k6 (6-channel, 500wpc@4ohms)

  14. #14

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    I tried to get my hands on some used Nads, but they arrived broken :) True story.
    Stereo Rig: Hales Revelation 3, Musical Fidelity CD-Pre 24, Forte Model 3 amp, Lexicon RT-10 SACD, MMF-5 w/speedbox, Forte Model 2 Phono Pre, Cardas Crosslink, APC H15, URC MX-950, Lovan Stand
    Bedroom: Samsung HPR-4252, Toshiba HD-A2, HK 3480, Signal Cable, AQ speaker cable, Totem Dreamcatchers, SVS PB10-NSD, URC MX-850

  15. #15

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    Quote Originally Posted by McLoki
    NAD would be a good AVR to go with the RTi speakers. (I am really surprised that more RTi owners do not use NAD....)

    Also - go used if you can stomach it. You will get alot more bang for your buck....

    Michael

    Edit - Here is a killer AVR that will run most speakers well and is just in your budget. (if you don't mind used)

    Thanks Michael, unfortunately it looks like none of the NAD's have HDMI support. This is a must with my setup.

  16. #16

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    Quote Originally Posted by rjinla
    Thanks Michael, unfortunately it looks like none of the NAD's have HDMI support. This is a must with my setup.
    Bummer - that is a down side of NAD, while the sound they produce is very nice, they seem to always lag on the technology offered.

    Good luck with your search.

    Michael
    Mains.............Polk LSi15 (Cherry)
    Center............Polk LSiC (Crossover upgraded)
    Surrounds.......Polk LSi7 (Gloss Black - wood sides removed and crossovers upgraded)
    Subwoofers.....SVS 25-31 CS+ and PC+ (both 20hz tune)
    Pre\Pro...........NAD T163 (Modded with LM4562 opamps)
    Amplifier.........Cinepro 3k6 (6-channel, 500wpc@4ohms)

  17. #17

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    Prior to me getting my LSi15's I had the RTi8 and I was using my Pioneer VSX-74 with no problem. It's a 140w/ch with HDMI. It's also for sale :D (errrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr, one more post needed in order to send a PM)

  18. #18

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    No offense to anyone here, but I just plain do not buy used equipment. Have had multiple issues in the past.

    Anyhow, really starting to lean towards the 245 + 2 m2200's

    Just curious of your thoughts on this.

    I may just own up to it and get the 645 + 2 m2200's though ;) hehe

  19. #19

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    Check out Ebay. they have an HK refurb store there. use the AVR as a preamp for the fronts, and use the AVR for the c/r/rb channels. I use an HK low power AVR just as a pre with adcom amps for the whole system, and it sounds very good. Way better than any reciever I have ever used. If you do use an AVR for a pre get some good interconnects for it. I never believed they made a difference, but they SURE DO.

    http://cgi.ebay.com/Harman-Kardon-AV...QQcmdZViewItem

    10 minutes to go... they have these all day long so don't worry if you miss one.

    These are factory direct

  20. #20

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    Thanks for the info on the refurbs, definitely interesting!

    What kind of interconnects are you using? or do you recommend?


    Right now I'm kind of set on an HK + the 2200s, but don't know if it's worth it for me in any sake to go from the 245 to 645, since all I need is the 2 HDMI inputs and CD player currently. Don't plan on adding much more.
    Last edited by rjinla; 02-01-2007 at 05:36 PM.

  21. #21

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    How about a Denon 3806? I've seen a few places with them marked down at the $999 price range. I suspect this is because they are clearing them out for its replacement.

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    I use PBJ's and some DIY cables. Search the forum for interconnects.

  23. #23

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    Quote Originally Posted by ivansfo
    How about a Denon 3806? I've seen a few places with them marked down at the $999 price range. I suspect this is because they are clearing them out for its replacement.

    Well the guys here make some good points, seems like if just use my AVR as a pre, and power those badboys with the 2200s, it'd probably sound better than if I just get a big daddy receiver.

    200w to each speaker vs ~100.

  24. #24

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    Not to bash HK but if you're in the market for a receiver to be used as a pre-pro there are probably 3 other guy's that would destroy the pre-pro section of the HK's stuff if your primary use is for home theatre. I would look to Pioneer, Denon and Yamaha if you're using the receiver as a pre-pro.

  25. #25

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    I am definitely looking at other brands. But most are recommending the HK's due to them being a warmer sound to calm the highs on the rti10s.

    Which leads me to one of my other questions, if I am going to power the rti10s via the 2200s, how much does the receiver really matter?

    Also showing my noobness, what does the pro stand for in pre/pro?

    Thanks for all these responses, loving the activity of this board!

  26. #26

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    Quote Originally Posted by LuSh
    Not to bash HK but if you're in the market for a receiver to be used as a pre-pro there are probably 3 other guy's that would destroy the pre-pro section of the HK's stuff if your primary use is for home theatre. I would look to Pioneer, Denon and Yamaha if you're using the receiver as a pre-pro.
    OK seeing Yamaha doesn't have pre-out till you spend big dollars thats out, and Pioneer with pre outs? Pioneer Elite is some good stuff, but over HK... step back from the pipe. Denon is nice but I have only found pre-outs on HK's at incredibly cheap prices. This thread has been done many times over. Its always HK Denon and Outlaw

  27. #27

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    Quote Originally Posted by rjinla
    if I am going to power the rti10s via the 2200s, how much does the receiver really matter?

    Also showing my noobness, what does the pro stand for in pre/pro?
    Pre/Pro stands for Preamp / Processor. The preamp side amplifies the signal from your source to your amplifier and adds volume control (and usually basic tone controls). The Processor side actually decodes the digital signal, determines what sounds go to what speakers and the steering (as a sound moves from speaker to speaker, how much to put in each speaker to have a smooth transition from front to back or vice versa.).

    Think of preamp as all the analog work in the pre/pro and Processor as all the digital work in the pre/pro.

    The difference that your AVR makes is actually rather large even without the amplifier portion. It is clearly a case of you don't know what you don't know. It will seem great until you hear something better in your system....

    Michael
    Mains.............Polk LSi15 (Cherry)
    Center............Polk LSiC (Crossover upgraded)
    Surrounds.......Polk LSi7 (Gloss Black - wood sides removed and crossovers upgraded)
    Subwoofers.....SVS 25-31 CS+ and PC+ (both 20hz tune)
    Pre\Pro...........NAD T163 (Modded with LM4562 opamps)
    Amplifier.........Cinepro 3k6 (6-channel, 500wpc@4ohms)

  28. #28

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    Good to know, guess my search queries weren't all that specific. So I appreciate all the info given again here. Helps a lot.

    I'll keep researching, but looks like I'm heading HK + Outlaw myself. Real eager to get them going and scare some neighbors. ;)

  29. #29

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    Quote Originally Posted by McLoki
    Pre/Pro stands for Preamp / Processor. The preamp side amplifies the signal from your source to your amplifier and adds volume control (and usually basic tone controls). The Processor side actually decodes the digital signal, determines what sounds go to what speakers and the steering (as a sound moves from speaker to speaker, how much to put in each speaker to have a smooth transition from front to back or vice versa.).

    Think of preamp as all the analog work in the pre/pro and Processor as all the digital work in the pre/pro.

    The difference that your AVR makes is actually rather large even without the amplifier portion. It is clearly a case of you don't know what you don't know. It will seem great until you hear something better in your system....

    Michael

    Makes complete sense now Michael. I haven't done this stuff for nearly 10yrs, so some things have changed. :) Thanks

  30. #30

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    Ben,

    Perhaps you should do a little more research before suggesting I step away from the pipe. A Yamaha RX-V659 has pre-out puts is probably being sold for as little as $400-500. That unit also uses fairly decent Burr Brown DACs and has a room calibration microphone. The Pioneer's...sell a unit for $500 with HDMI switching, Pre-out's, for $400-500...again with a MCACC microphone to help calibrate the system based off of room acoustics...HK is an old name, sadly they still rely on it when other's have really broken ahead.

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