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  1. #1

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    Default Amp Deal of the Century!

    http://www.radioshack.com/sm-accuria...i-2049804.html

    Wade through every RadioShack you can find! These cool little amps are rated at 50 watts, used to be $160 to $300 depending on when you were looking but now, they are $15 because they are totally useless without some silly ass sending unit you need to make them work as designed. The sending unit is no longer available...

    So, just pop the top, remove the silly receiving board by disconnecting some cables and you end up with a very nice, smooth sounding little amplifier complete with nice torroid power supply. (just feed the signal into the "Line Out" jacks after disconnecting this board). Don't poke around in this one with power applied!

    I auditioned it on a friends KEF bookshelf speakers and it sounds very sweet! I'm already looking to see what hopups could be done to it!

    madmax
    Vinyl, the final frontier...

    Avantgarde horns, 300b tubes, thats the kinda crap I want... :D

  2. #2

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    If you read the reviews at RS, it seems a lot of these fail pretty quickly. But for $15...

  3. #3

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    Yea, they are talking about some power transistor. I will try to figure out if a particular one is getting warm before going too far. I see one that looks like it powers the add on board. Woo hoo, I love a new challenge!
    madmax
    Vinyl, the final frontier...

    Avantgarde horns, 300b tubes, thats the kinda crap I want... :D

  4. #4

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    Default

    Just picked up a pair of their bookshelf powered speakers for $30. Sweet too and almost as easy to modify. Same situation as the amps as far as no signal inputs other than AC line. I just disconnected the receiver board and hard wired the inputs. I wonder who manufactures these things for them? Very professionally done!
    madmax
    Vinyl, the final frontier...

    Avantgarde horns, 300b tubes, thats the kinda crap I want... :D

  5. #5

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    Default

    For $15 it's a no brainer. I'll probably snag one for bi-amping.
    Make it Funky! :)

  6. #6

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    Default MadAmp

    Thanks for the head's up. I picked one up last night and just popped the hood. It works and sounds pretty good. I'm thinking of using it for my computer rig or when checking out used speakers. This is easy!

    (1) Remove two wiring connectors, four screws and nylon cable tie.
    (2) This is what to remove.
    (3) What you own.
    (4) Found this on the top right corner of the board. It may be possible to find the transmitter somewhere.
    (5) Two 50v 6800 uF caps.
    (6) As Max says, connect your inputs to the RCA line out jacks. I'm going to change the speaker out connectors to standard jacks.
    (7) Specs.
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    Last edited by Polk65; 04-22-2007 at 04:37 AM.
    Life gets more interesting the more we play.

  7. #7

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    Default

    Its all descrete components too so if anyone wanted to replace caps, diodes transistors etc it would be very easy. Its my guess that the board we are unhooking is the same board used as the transmitter, just wired to different connectors.

    A friend here at work just walked by and heard my powered speakers and was quite impressed with the sound.

    madmax
    Vinyl, the final frontier...

    Avantgarde horns, 300b tubes, thats the kinda crap I want... :D

  8. #8

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    Bought one from the local RS and have the receiver board out.
    It is well worth the $15 just for the transformer itself!!
    I am thinking about adding a low voltage tube to the input as a buffer :D
    A 6GM8 will be a good candidate ....

    -fredv-

  9. #9

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    I'm pretty sure it is a common ground amp but have not yet had a chance to remove the main pcb to look. They have me pulling double duty at work...
    madmax

    A tube would look real cool poking out of the case. :)
    Vinyl, the final frontier...

    Avantgarde horns, 300b tubes, thats the kinda crap I want... :D

  10. #10
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    I got mine yesterday, they said it was their last one. There are six other Rat shacks in the area, I'm gonna see if I can get another.

  11. #11

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    The RS shop that I went to had 5 left after I bought mine. They even joked to give me some discount if I bought them all :-)

    -fredv-

  12. #12

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    I picked up the first one, liked the sound and figured at $15 you can't beat it. I picked up a few more figuring that I'm always needing an amp at my home bench to try modified stuff on and you never know when I'll want one for some special project or whatever.
    madmax

    Edit: Forgot, maybe one as a headphone amp. :)
    Vinyl, the final frontier...

    Avantgarde horns, 300b tubes, thats the kinda crap I want... :D

  13. #13

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    Well, I got one and am getting ready to remove the board. Will the volume still work or will I need a pre?
    I'm in the high-fidelity first class traveling set

  14. #14

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    Anyone found these in Canada? All the radio shacks have turned into "the Source CC" here and I can't find them online.

  15. #15

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    Quote Originally Posted by ledhed View Post
    Well, I got one and am getting ready to remove the board. Will the volume still work or will I need a pre?
    You don't need a pre, and the volume will work as well as the bass, treble, and balance knobs. Use the "line out" as RCA input, they share the same trace of the receiver's input to the PCB.

    -fredv-

  16. #16

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    Nope, no need for a pre. I'm sitting here listening to Boston More than a Feeling by my iPod (wanted to try something with a variable output first) using shoestring speaker wire because my good wire was too big a gauge for it. Sounds pretty good- right now I feel confident it is just as good if not better than my old Kenwood AVR which was slowly dying. Now all I need is a cheap pre amp so I can have multiple preouts.
    I'm in the high-fidelity first class traveling set

  17. #17
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    Is it possible to... bridge this little amp... into a 100W mono-block?

  18. #18

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    Anyone having trouble getting these? I just found a local store that claims they have 5 of them. I'd be willing to pick them up and ship them for actual shipping cost.

    If I do this I'll probably keep one. But that still leaves 4 for whoever.
    HT
    Mits WD-65737, DirecTV, Oppo DV-970HD, XBOX ONE, Yamaha RX-A1030, Parasound Halo A23, Rotel RB-985, Music Hall MMF-7, Parasound PPH-100, LSi-15, LSi-C, LSi-FX, LSi-7, PSW-1000, Monster HTS2600

    2 CH
    Parasound Halo P3, Parasound Halo A21, Sutherland Ph.D, VPI Classic 3 w/ 3D arm, Arcam CD72T, B&W 802 S3, Monster HTS2500,

  19. #19

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    Do yours have tons of static or is it probably just all the EMF in my room?
    I'm in the high-fidelity first class traveling set

  20. #20

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    I ordered 1 today. They will call me when it comes in.

    It should be great for testing rig and for a mini rig where ever.
    I like speakers that are bigger than a small refrigerator but smaller than a big refrigerator:D

  21. #21

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    None of mine have any static. Did you unhook both connectors from that board?
    madmax
    Vinyl, the final frontier...

    Avantgarde horns, 300b tubes, thats the kinda crap I want... :D

  22. #22
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    I'm thinking of using this for a better quality computer system speakers. Good application - I think?

  23. #23

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    Hey anyone in the Tacoma Area looking for these, there are 3 in Tacoma at the 72nd st Store

    7 at the Lacy Store

    4 in Gig Harbor Store

    3 at the Port Orchard Store

    If you call one of the stores they can look up and tell you what stores have them

  24. #24

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    Quote Originally Posted by madmax View Post
    None of mine have any static. Did you unhook both connectors from that board?
    madmax
    Well, the board isn't in it anymore so it can't be that :p
    I'm in the high-fidelity first class traveling set

  25. #25

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    The 2 that I have don't have static either. The noise level is comparable to the t-amp. Is the static present after power on with or without any source connected?

    -fredv-

  26. #26

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    Thanks Fred. I was hoping someone with a t-amp would chime in. Can you give any other comparisons between them such as tone and power?

    On the flip side of the main board the negative terminals DO share common ground. I hooked up a cd player and SDA CRS+ for an hour with volume at 10 o'clock. The amp got hot but did not fail and delivered clean sound. For S&G I turned the knob up to 11 o'clock and it was ok. At 12 o'clock the amp's relays kicked in and muted output. I quickly dialed back to 11 o'clock and the relays switched the music back on. The speakers are fine and the amp has no static.

    Some mod discussion and ideas over at diyaudio http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showt...threadid=84685
    and to a lesser extent at fatwallet http://www.fatwallet.com/forums/arcm...hreadid=643263

    The failures some have had I believe is due to in part to the add on board trapping heat. By removing it heat is reduced but it still gets hot. The sides of the top cover have groupings of three holes. I'm going to cut out the tabs separating them to create larger slots for more airflow. So far I've re-routed the power wires away from the audio wires. If you remove the cable tie around the blue and white wires they tuck neatly into the very top left corner.

    If you see the transmitter 15-1938 grab it and take it to the bay. Three recent auctions have sold for over $100
    http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...m=110114343925
    http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...m=190102070160
    http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...m=190106819371
    Life gets more interesting the more we play.

  27. #27

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    Are these mods something anyone can do, or do I need to know about this stuff?
    Main HT
    Magnepan 1.6QR fronts, POlk R15 surrounds, Pioneer SC-25, Parasound Halo A23, Oppo BDP-105, Panasonic TC-P60ZT60, Sony PS3, Apple TV

    Bedroom System
    Polk Blackstone TL3, Polk PSWi225 Wireless Sub, HK 3490 Integrated, Oppo BDP-103, Sharp Aquos 32" TV, Apple TV

    Office Rig
    27" iMac w/Amarra, AudioQuest Dragonfly 1.2, Focal XS Book, Schiit Valhalla, Cypher Labs Theorem 720, Philips Fidelio X1, Sennheiser HD600, HiFiMan HE-500, B&W P7, LG 47LM7600, Sony PS3, Apple TV

  28. #28

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    Nevermind that, I see Polk65's post above with pictures, looks to be an easy switch with no real work involved...

    I'm gonna grab one of these and see how it stacks up against my TEAC...
    Main HT
    Magnepan 1.6QR fronts, POlk R15 surrounds, Pioneer SC-25, Parasound Halo A23, Oppo BDP-105, Panasonic TC-P60ZT60, Sony PS3, Apple TV

    Bedroom System
    Polk Blackstone TL3, Polk PSWi225 Wireless Sub, HK 3490 Integrated, Oppo BDP-103, Sharp Aquos 32" TV, Apple TV

    Office Rig
    27" iMac w/Amarra, AudioQuest Dragonfly 1.2, Focal XS Book, Schiit Valhalla, Cypher Labs Theorem 720, Philips Fidelio X1, Sennheiser HD600, HiFiMan HE-500, B&W P7, LG 47LM7600, Sony PS3, Apple TV

  29. #29

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    Quote Originally Posted by ledhed View Post
    Well, the board isn't in it anymore so it can't be that :p

    Maybe its a wireless connection? :D

    Sounds like you may have a defective unit. I'd put it back together and return it if you can't find an external reason for the noise. At work I have mine sitting on top of my PC (a VERY noisey place electrically) and am experiencing absolutely no noise.

    madmax
    Vinyl, the final frontier...

    Avantgarde horns, 300b tubes, thats the kinda crap I want... :D

  30. #30

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    Well, it is definitely the unit. Has a hum even without being connected though the noise does not increase as the volume increases. I read that bypassing the preamp board gets rid of tons of static so I may try that eventually. Right now I'm pretty happy with it.
    I'm in the high-fidelity first class traveling set

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