No not the whole thing!!!
I Dynamated the MW driver basket spokes and the passive radiator basket spokes.
The project was spread out over two days. It took a total of about 13 hours.
I cut sixty-four 1 1/4" X 2 1/4" pieces that was enough to cover the four spokes on each of the 16 MW drivers.
I cut sixteen 1 1/4" x 5 1/4" strips for the spokes on each of the two PRs.
This innocent sounding task was no picnic. First off the Dynamat is like soft formed tar. Very messy when you have to use your kitchen table to cut it. BTW I was picking out little balls of tar out of mine and the dog's hair (how the heck it got on him is beyond me) and the next day after a shower I was picking pieces off my ear???
I took one driver out at a time put the Dynamat on it and placed it back in. The 1.2 TLs have those allen wrench screws which if you have a long allen wrench that fits in a screwdriver handle you are good to go.
The first 8 and PR I had to use one of those little L shaped allen wrench's . . . I don't recommend it, my hands were cramping up like crazy.
Anyhoo, the holes for the screws in the MDF has little metal threaded tubes. Great idea to get a really tight and airtight seal.
However, if you are an anal, obsessive kook like me and decide to regasket your drivers with the thick sponge gasket from Parts Express expect severe hand cramping and worse case senario, this happened to me three times, the screw pushed the little threaded tube out of the rear of the hole about oh a little over 1/8th to 1/4". You have to take a small needle nose pliers and with your fat hand (at least in my case) hold the threaded tube with the pliers which is very difficult giving the tight space and with the other hand trun a screw in to make a connection with the first few threads. Then with extremely small turns, move the needlenose pliers in that tight space to screw the now collapsing thread tube. Once it is in far enough the gasket which is what is keeping the screw from grabbing the thread in the first place doesn't cause the screw to miss the threads. . . are you still with me???
Okay that said I got all of the right speaker done after about 8 hours. This is primarily because I hadn't realized yet that I should cut all of the Dynamat pieces I need first, instead of taking out a driver, cutting the four pieces needed, applying it and then reinstalling and so on and so on.
The next day took only five hours but would have taken less except for a really stupid thing I did!!!
For some retarded reason, I thought the 1.2 TLs used MW 6511s for the SDA array and MW 6510s for the Stereo array. . . I could have sworn this is what I saw in the right cabinet.
So I'm doing the left cabinet and find an MW 6503 in the highest hole of the stereo array. I panic. AHHH HHHAAAAAA that is why on the test record the right channel is louder than the left channel, even Jesse heard that!!!! So I start bugging Jesse and Ken Swauger and acting like a complete and udder retard.
I had both of them confussed at first. So I start taking out the drivers of the right speaker and they are 6503s also, now I'm getting pist because printed in red on the magnets it says as plain as the nose on my face, "engineered for use in SDA CRS+. Now I've really got Ken going and I'm waiting on Jesse (probably to stop laughing) to make sure that this isn't an aboration.
Well after looking at the schematic and laughing at me more Jesse calls me back and tells me that the 1.2 TLs are supposed to have 6503. I start rattling off that maybe I should replace them with 6510s why because I am retarded. Jesse brings me back to earth by telling me that the 1.2TLs were Polk pinnacle SDA and that I should leave it alone. Okay now my feet are back on the gound.
The good news though is that I found out from Ken that Polk is manufacturing the 6510s again and should have them ready for sale in about four months. See everything happens for a reason.
Okay now the basket spokes are all Dynamated. My hands are swollen, my back hurts like hell, I'm sweating bullets and I call Jesse.
He tells me that I'll be hard pressed to hear any difference when I fire them up. . . HUH??? Okay Joe, I say to myself, remember tweaking is a culmulative effect thing!!!
So I spent about a week and a day listening to all my reference material.
This is what I heard. It sounds like my mid-range instruments and vocals have warmed up. The midrange images seems to be more stable. The treble instruments and vocals seem to have come more forward and are a little louder. When I put my SPL to it I'm showing around 104 DB where before on the same passage I was getting 99 or 100 db.
With my Jazz at the Pawnshop LP the soundstage was way wider, much, much deeper and the mids were much warmer. The depth of my soundstage on this LP and others got as deep as six feet. This is much better than the 3 to 4 feet I'd been hearing.
I don't know, when you think about it, if you stop ringing and resonance from polluting your driver that can explain a warmer, more stable image, right?
I don't know. I know that my rig has never sounded better. There is one thing that I am absolutely sure that has improved. When listening to cellos, that growwwwlll from the strings, like you get from the thick strings of a double base, in much much more pronounced and the decay is longer.
The honest to goodness truth is, I've never been so unsure of the effect of a tweak as I am with this one!!! LOL
If you told me I had to give an answer YES or NO on doing this tweak, I would say YES it is a pain in the butt but my rig sounds better.
Here are some pics.