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  1. #1

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    Post Simple guide to power amp requirements...

    Many ask questions about how much power they will need for a given room/speaker combination. It’s a common question, so I’m making this post for future reference. Keep in mind this is not an article for the "techno-weenies" or electrical engineers, it's a simple guide, and written in that light.

    Three factors come into play when determining how much power you need:

    1. Room size
    2. Speaker efficiency
    3. Desired loudness level

    Since room size is often the variable we cannot change, (at least not easily), let’s talk about speaker efficiency and desired loudness level. Speakers have a specification for “efficiency” or “Sound Pressure Level” (SPL); some also have a “max SPL” specification. Some definitions:

    1. Efficiency: Typically the level in decibels the speaker produces at 1watt, measured at 1 meter from the baffle, usually at 1kHz. A typical measurement might be 89dB for a relatively high efficient design.
    2. Sound Pressure Level: SPL/Efficiency are used interchangeably.
    3. Max SPL: Some manufacturers provide this number as a “warning” to not exceed this output level.

    To determine how much power you need, you need to know your speakers efficiency specification. It takes approximately a 3dB increase (for most people) to notice a change in level; you have to double wattage in order to gain 3dB in level. Given this, and easy way to figure out how much output you need is to create a chart. Using the example above of the 89dB efficient speaker, lets see how much power is required to attain certain output levels, then lets add speaker “b” with a specification of 92dB for SPL:

    Watts……SPL (spkr “a”)….....SPL (spkr “b”)
    1………..…89dB…………......……92dB
    2………..…92dB…………......……95dB
    4………..…95dB……………......…98dB
    8………..…98dB………….....….…101dB
    16……....101dB…………….......104dB
    32……..…104dB…………….......and so on
    64……....107dB
    128……..110dB
    256…..…113dB
    512……..116dB
    1024…...119dB

    For reference:

    60dB….normal conversation
    90dB….lawn mower
    110dB….car horn
    120dB….jet aircraft at take-off/Rock concert
    140dB….gun shot

    Note: As you double wattage, you increase output by 3dB. In the above example, the 89dB @ 1watt/1mtr specified speaker would require 16 watts to attain 101dB SPL, fairly loud. Note that speaker “b” only requires half the power to attain the same output loudness. Also note, there is no distinction for impedance; SPL is SPL, regardless of impedance. You just need to be aware that 4ohm speakers require a more robust power amplifier due to the higher current demands. Efficiency is not necessarily a measure of quality; it’s a function of the speakers’ design. There are many fine speakers that are relatively inefficient, and also many highly efficient designs that are not of good quality.
    Last edited by steveinaz; 07-12-2007 at 03:40 PM.

    Source: C.E.C. CD-3300 CD Transport
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    Speakers: Harbeth Compact 7ES-3 Monitor/SVS PB12-NSD Subwoofer

    When the people find that they can vote themselves money, that will herald the end of the republic. - Benjamin Franklin

  2. #2

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    Practically speaking, does this mean anything? I don't like to listen to music very loudly, and i'm pretty sure I don't listen at the 100db level. The chart indicates that I only need a 16 wpc amp.

    tim

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    Quote Originally Posted by tcrossma View Post
    Practically speaking, does this mean anything? I don't like to listen to music very loudly, and i'm pretty sure I don't listen at the 100db level. The chart indicates that I only need a 16 wpc amp.

    tim
    That is correct only if you listen to your speakers using a 1kHZ test tone exactly 1 meter away. The chart is a guide if all things are equal. Music is never just one sustained tone. The tones are variable and a lower note, say 45Hz, will need much more power to reproduce accurately with out clipping depending on room size and how far away you listen.
    "Appreciation of audio is a completely subjective human experience. Measurements can provide a measure of insight, but are no substitute for human judgment. Why are we looking to reduce a subjective experience to objective criteria anyway? The subtleties of music and audio reproduction are for those who appreciate it. Differentiation by numbers is for those who do not".--Nelson Pass

    Pass Aleph 30; Adcom GFP750/Dared SL2000A; Adcom GDA600; MIT S3/Z Pc; SDA 1C; Squeezebox; Tubes add soul!

  4. #4

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    Quote Originally Posted by tcrossma View Post
    Practically speaking, does this mean anything? I don't like to listen to music very loudly, and i'm pretty sure I don't listen at the 100db level. The chart indicates that I only need a 16 wpc amp.

    tim
    It would mean that if you only listen at 100dB, and you're running, say 100 watt amp, you've got a good cushion of at least 6dB for dynamics.

    Again, it's a guide. If you like LOUD music, you might want to be in the 128-512 watt realm based on a 89dB speaker SPL.

    In your scenario, you're probably right. If you listen at less than 100db, in a small room, a 20 watt amp would do the job.
    Last edited by steveinaz; 07-12-2007 at 04:47 PM.

    Source: C.E.C. CD-3300 CD Transport
    DAC: Benchmark DAC/PRE
    Linestage: Placette Audio Passive
    Power Amp: Parasound HCA-1500A
    Speakers: Harbeth Compact 7ES-3 Monitor/SVS PB12-NSD Subwoofer

    When the people find that they can vote themselves money, that will herald the end of the republic. - Benjamin Franklin

  5. #5

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    I was under the impression that 8ohm speakers are measured at 1 watt to get efficiency, which is equivalent to 2.83v but 4 ohm speakers 2.83v would equal 2 watts. This would mean that if a 4ohm speaker is rated at 2.83v then the efficiency should be = to the spec - 3db to make up for the 2 watts as opposed to 1.

    Don't know if it is beyond the scope of this thread but I feel that it is important.

  6. #6

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    You guys are all way off. An amp has to have 200 watts to sound good. Room size, speaker efficiency or amp type make no difference :D
    V
    Let me tell you something about life, around every corner monsters await. I know, I am one.

    If I owned hell and this place, I would rent this place out and live in hell.

    Mains: Anthony Gallo Reference 3.1
    Preamp: Modwright SWL9.0SE
    Amps: Butler TBD2250, PS Audio Trio
    PrePro: Cary Cinema 6, Outlaw 990
    DAC: Benchmark DAC1
    Universal Player: Denon 2900
    Cables: StraightWire Encore II, Kimber Hero, Audioquest Type 4, CV-8, Columbia DBS
    Power Conditioner: Belkin PF60

  7. #7

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    Hee hee, I am kind of moving backward. From 3 digits of SS power to 2 digits of tube power, and now I am looking at Nelson Pass's F4 - a unity gain flea amp :D

    -fredv-

  8. #8

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    you do not need a 200 watt amp to sound good. You just have to have a good one. But what can I say, my amp puts out 200 into 8 ohms.
    Speakers: mains/2ch:SDA2a, surrounds-Monitor Series 7, center-CS350-LS, sub-Atlantic Technologies 172 PBM
    Control: AVR:Denon AVR 2106 powering surrounds and center(HT) pre: B&K PRO-10MC(2ch)
    Amps:Parasound HCA 1000a powering mains(2ch/HT)
    Sources: Oppo DV-970HD(2ch/HT), Xbox360(HT), PS2(HT), Wii(HT), Kenwood KT-5300(2ch)
    Cables:Philips/RCA/Monster

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  9. #9

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    Quote Originally Posted by dudeinaroom View Post
    you do not need a 200 watt amp to sound good. You just have to have a good one. But what can I say, my amp puts out 200 into 8 ohms.
    I know Dude, I was just poking a little fun at Cfrizz...
    Let me tell you something about life, around every corner monsters await. I know, I am one.

    If I owned hell and this place, I would rent this place out and live in hell.

    Mains: Anthony Gallo Reference 3.1
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    Amps: Butler TBD2250, PS Audio Trio
    PrePro: Cary Cinema 6, Outlaw 990
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    Cables: StraightWire Encore II, Kimber Hero, Audioquest Type 4, CV-8, Columbia DBS
    Power Conditioner: Belkin PF60

  10. #10

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    :D :D :D :D :p

    Says the man with a 250wpc Krell! HYPOCRITE!!!:p :D



    Quote Originally Posted by venomclan View Post
    I know Dude, I was just poking a little fun at Cfrizz...
    Last edited by cfrizz; 07-12-2007 at 08:54 PM.
    Sunfire TGP III PrePro, Sunfire Cinema Grand Signature 405wpc 5 ch. Amp, Rotel RCD-1072 CDP, Onkyo TA2600 Tape Deck, Pioneer Elite 47-A DVD, Sony 32" XBR TV, Polk RTA-8T Main Speakers, Boston VR-920 Center Channel, Boston PV-600 Subwoofer, Polk DSW 400 Subwoofer, Polk FXi-3 Surround Speakers

  11. #11

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    Thanks for the info Steve. Here's another way of doing it. This site does video & audio calculations. All you do is plug in the numbers. Pretty neat stuff. http://www.myhometheater.homestead.c...l#anchor_13194
    "2 Channel & 11.2 HT "
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  12. #12

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    A powerful amp is like driving a muscle car -- you probably won't use all of that extra power, but it's nice to have it under the hood just in case. If you prefer to cruise the 'hood in a moped because it's more fuel efficient, I suppose a flea amp will accomodate your needs.
    HT/2-channel Rig: Sony 50” LCD TV; Toshiba HD-A2 DVD player; Emotiva LMC-1 pre/pro; Rogue Audio M-120 monoblocks (modded); Placette RVC; Emotiva LPA-1 amp; Bada HD-22 tube CDP (modded); VMPS Tower II SE (fronts); DIY Clearwave Dynamic 4CC (center); Wharfedale Opus Tri-Surrounds (rear); and VMPS 215 sub

    "God grooves with tubes."

  13. #13

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    Quote Originally Posted by cfrizz View Post
    :D :D :D :D :p

    Says the man with a 250wpc Krell! HYPOCRITE!!!:p :D
    I am replacing it with a 1 watt tube amp
    Dr. Evil laugh Muhahahahahahaha
    Let me tell you something about life, around every corner monsters await. I know, I am one.

    If I owned hell and this place, I would rent this place out and live in hell.

    Mains: Anthony Gallo Reference 3.1
    Preamp: Modwright SWL9.0SE
    Amps: Butler TBD2250, PS Audio Trio
    PrePro: Cary Cinema 6, Outlaw 990
    DAC: Benchmark DAC1
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  14. #14

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    So LSi15's with 88dBm efficiency would result to 105dBm with 200W amp at 9ft, versus 125W and 103dBm. I think both are more than plenty for me, I don't think my ears could take more.

    At work when I speak of power levels and mention dB, I always get myself corrected, "you mean dBm or dB?" Damn RF Engineers... :)

  15. #15

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    I don't give a rats ass about all the numbers! My ears tell me the 200wpc ROCKS!

    And a good many other people have agreed once they got powerful amps.
    Sunfire TGP III PrePro, Sunfire Cinema Grand Signature 405wpc 5 ch. Amp, Rotel RCD-1072 CDP, Onkyo TA2600 Tape Deck, Pioneer Elite 47-A DVD, Sony 32" XBR TV, Polk RTA-8T Main Speakers, Boston VR-920 Center Channel, Boston PV-600 Subwoofer, Polk DSW 400 Subwoofer, Polk FXi-3 Surround Speakers

  16. #16

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    Quote Originally Posted by cfrizz View Post
    I don't give a rats ass about all the numbers! My ears tell me the 200wpc ROCKS!

    And a good many other people have agreed once they got powerful amps.
    You tell 'em, Cathy. Curse 'em out, dammit.
    HT/2-channel Rig: Sony 50” LCD TV; Toshiba HD-A2 DVD player; Emotiva LMC-1 pre/pro; Rogue Audio M-120 monoblocks (modded); Placette RVC; Emotiva LPA-1 amp; Bada HD-22 tube CDP (modded); VMPS Tower II SE (fronts); DIY Clearwave Dynamic 4CC (center); Wharfedale Opus Tri-Surrounds (rear); and VMPS 215 sub

    "God grooves with tubes."

  17. #17

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    Quote Originally Posted by cfrizz View Post
    I don't give a rats ass about all the numbers! My ears tell me the 200wpc ROCKS!

    And a good many other people have agreed once they got powerful amps.
    Exactly, that's why the 150-250 watt amps have such fierce competition. They're large enough to handle most size rooms with serious output.

    Source: C.E.C. CD-3300 CD Transport
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    When the people find that they can vote themselves money, that will herald the end of the republic. - Benjamin Franklin

  18. #18

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    I have to go past halfway on my 2 ch. setup. Once the acoustic panels are done and the window is covered, I'll give it a try. 5(out of 12) is audible in the backyard as is.

    Btw, great thread!
    "He who fights with monsters should look to it that he himself does not become a monster. And when you gaze long into an abyss the abyss also gazes into you." Friedrich Nietzsche

  19. #19

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    10 o'clock is my listening level, 11:30 and all of my neighbors complain(I live in an apartment). would really like to get in a house where I could separate the 2ch and HT. So I'd have to get a new set of speakers for the HT, and A sacd player for the 2ch, but I guess for know they will have to play nice and live together and share the amp and dvd player.
    Last edited by dudeinaroom; 07-13-2007 at 01:24 AM. Reason: for corrections duh
    Speakers: mains/2ch:SDA2a, surrounds-Monitor Series 7, center-CS350-LS, sub-Atlantic Technologies 172 PBM
    Control: AVR:Denon AVR 2106 powering surrounds and center(HT) pre: B&K PRO-10MC(2ch)
    Amps:Parasound HCA 1000a powering mains(2ch/HT)
    Sources: Oppo DV-970HD(2ch/HT), Xbox360(HT), PS2(HT), Wii(HT), Kenwood KT-5300(2ch)
    Cables:Philips/RCA/Monster

    Life's short, Listen to SDA's
    Life's short, Listen to SDA's
    Where did SOPA go?

  20. #20

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    Quote Originally Posted by heiney9 View Post
    That is correct only if you listen to your speakers using a 1kHZ test tone exactly 1 meter away.

    Sometimes I get crazy and switch to a 1.5kHZ test tone. :D
    madmax
    Vinyl, the final frontier...

    Avantgarde horns, 300b tubes, thats the kinda crap I want... :D

  21. #21

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    Also keep in mind that efficiency ratings are for one speaker, each additional speaker adds 3db. And efficiency ratings are usually done in an anechoic room. In the real world, there is also room gain.

    For example, my system at 200 wpc calculates to 115db (one speaker), but I have measured 122db from the listening position (10ft. from speakers), with even higher peaks with 2 speakers.

  22. #22

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    It's really very simple - all things being equal more power is better than less power and you can almost never have too much power.
    Phil

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