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  1. #121

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    As George stated, you can replace the silver mica's with .1uF Sonicap's if you want. I found that in doing so resulted in very annoying artifacts, so I removed them. The idea behind using bypass caps is to achieve a better sound when used with cheap electrolytic caps like Polk uses. When upgrading to high end caps there is really no need for the bypass caps.

    Note: If you choose to not use the bypass caps, you will have to use a jumper for the one located closest to C5. I did this by dropping the top lead for C5 from the P3 hole to the actual top hole for C5, then adding a jumper from R2 to P3, thus completing the circuit. For the silver mica located closest to P1, a jumper is not needed.
    'Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a turd by the clean end."

  2. #122
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    Quote Originally Posted by george daniel View Post
    IIRC,,some eliminate (use a jumper instead of the SM) and others myself,have used a .1Uf sonicap in place of the SM,,,have fun, and good luck.
    I've used a jumper. See the pics below. Actually there are two jumpers that need to be installed one in place of the polyswitch and the other to bring the circuit board lands together due to the illimination of the silver mica caps.

    I recommend illiminating the polyswitch only if you are confident that your amplifiers have good clean power and plenty of headroom. My amps have never bottomed out no matter how hard I drove them and the speakers so I was confident that I wouldn't be getting any distortion to the tweeters that could fry them. Also, just for ****s and giggles, I would rather loose a tweeter occasionally than listen to the crappy sound that is caused by the polyswitch all the time.

    In the pics below you will see a jumper in S1 which is in lieu of the polyswitch and a jumper in R2 to P3 which makes the continuity lost by the illimination of the silver micas. Pic 4 the R2 jumper is in the upper right hand portion of the pic. In pic 5 the R2 jumper is in the lower left hand portion of the pic.
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  3. #123

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    And in Pic 3 is half of my head, jumper free of course. :D
    'Political Correctness'.........defined

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    Oh shoot, sorry Jess I was so focused on the jumper I didn't see your handsome, debonoir face. . .shall I remove it?:D :p

  5. #125

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    Nah, it's rare when this forum is graced with such beauty.
    'Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a turd by the clean end."

  6. #126

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    I think my new Mills are here. I have to run to the UPS store and pick them up.
    Polk Audio SDA SRS 1.2TL's
    With new Exotic wood, Sonicaps, Mills & RDO198's - Born on 4-24-1989 and Signed by Matthew Polk!!!!


    My Polk SDA SRS 1.2TL's http://www.LASAREATH.com/


    It All Started here: http://tinyurl.com/lasareath2

    Part Deux: http://tinyurl.com/lasareath3

    Car Stereo---->http://www.salsleaf.com/leaf_stereo/index.htm<---- NEW for 2013

  7. #127

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    Analog97, you may find this article of interest. The reviewer noted exactly what I experienced regarding bypass caps used with high end caps.

    "But there is one small problem: the bypasses all sound bad! They add a quality that at first sounds like an increase in air and detail, but after a couple of hours becomes an intrusive harshness and discontinuity in the upper treble. Remove the bypass: all of the detail is present but without that grating and annoying sound. The high frequencies are cleaner, smoother, and much more enjoyable. It doesn't matter if the bypass cap is TeflonŽ, polystyrene, or common polypropylene, the results are very similar."

    The entire article: http://www.10audio.com/sonicap_oimp_multicap.htm
    'Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a turd by the clean end."

  8. #128

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    Quote Originally Posted by F1nut View Post
    Nah, it's rare when this forum is graced with such beauty.
    Damn Jesse you're not kidding, That picture has gotten double the views than the others!
    Polk Audio SDA SRS 1.2TL's
    With new Exotic wood, Sonicaps, Mills & RDO198's - Born on 4-24-1989 and Signed by Matthew Polk!!!!


    My Polk SDA SRS 1.2TL's http://www.LASAREATH.com/


    It All Started here: http://tinyurl.com/lasareath2

    Part Deux: http://tinyurl.com/lasareath3

    Car Stereo---->http://www.salsleaf.com/leaf_stereo/index.htm<---- NEW for 2013

  9. #129

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    Quote Originally Posted by hearingimpared View Post
    I recommend illiminating the polyswitch only if you are confident that your amplifiers have good clean power and plenty of headroom. My amps have never bottomed out no matter how hard I drove them and the speakers so I was confident that I wouldn't be getting any distortion to the tweeters that could fry them. Also, just for ****s and giggles, I would rather loose a tweeter occasionally than listen to the crappy sound that is caused by the polyswitch all the time.
    I'm thinking of eliminating the poly switch when I redo the crossovers in the SRS2's because I agree with what you say about them. In 25+ years of being in the A/V business, I have (literally) blown maybe 2 maybe 3 tweeters between home and car audio setups. 2 of them were in car audio (and we know how that can be) and that hasn't happened in a LONG time. I'm confident in myself in not overdriving something to distortion because I know what it sounds like and what the repercussions are in doing so. I do plan on getting a larger amp than the M-1.0t to run these (something like a TFM-45 or 55) and I next to never have the LED's bouncing above the 3rd row. Hell, I don't think I've seen the 4th row or above on it!

    This should be a safe assumption to remove the poly switch, right? I'd rather it be out of the signal chain if it makes it a better top end without being "limited".
    Richard? Who's your favorite Little Rascal? Alfalfa? Or is it........................Spanky?................. ................Sinner.

  10. #130
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    Quote Originally Posted by avguytx View Post
    I'm thinking of eliminating the poly switch when I redo the crossovers in the SRS2's because I agree with what you say about them. In 25+ years of being in the A/V business, I have (literally) blown maybe 2 maybe 3 tweeters between home and car audio setups. 2 of them were in car audio (and we know how that can be) and that hasn't happened in a LONG time. I'm confident in myself in not overdriving something to distortion because I know what it sounds like and what the repercussions are in doing so. I do plan on getting a larger amp than the M-1.0t to run these (something like a TFM-45 or 55) and I next to never have the LED's bouncing above the 3rd row. Hell, I don't think I've seen the 4th row or above on it!

    This should be a safe assumption to remove the poly switch, right? I'd rather it be out of the signal chain if it makes it a better top end without being "limited".
    I've blown two tweeters in my lifetime. Both were casualties of Telarc's Tchaikovsky's 1812 Overture [B]LP[/B.] This was back in 1986. I was testing out some new phono cartridges and the two cheaper ones jumped out of the grooves and caused such distortion during the cannon blasts that I never got close enough, fast enough to lower the volume. The second one was very subtle when it blew during the same blasts. I don't do that anymore. . .

    You have a good handle on your gear so deleting the polyswitch is a good idea IMHO.

  11. #131

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    Funny....now that I think about it, I think it was playing 1812 Overture that killed the home tweeter but I can't remember if it was vinyl I was listening to or not. But I remember well about the stylus flopping around in the groove on some units. Pretty wild...
    Richard? Who's your favorite Little Rascal? Alfalfa? Or is it........................Spanky?................. ................Sinner.

  12. #132

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    There is some banter about that on another forum,,1812 overture and the "grado dance"
    JC approves....he told me so. (F-1 nut)

  13. #133
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    Quote Originally Posted by george daniel View Post
    There is some banter about that on another forum,,1812 overture and the "grado dance"
    Ha ha ha Grado dance!

  14. #134

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    I've blown one SL2000 in 20 years. And i think it was a faulty tweeter. the Polk dealer I bought them from replaced the tweeter.
    Polk Audio SDA SRS 1.2TL's
    With new Exotic wood, Sonicaps, Mills & RDO198's - Born on 4-24-1989 and Signed by Matthew Polk!!!!


    My Polk SDA SRS 1.2TL's http://www.LASAREATH.com/


    It All Started here: http://tinyurl.com/lasareath2

    Part Deux: http://tinyurl.com/lasareath3

    Car Stereo---->http://www.salsleaf.com/leaf_stereo/index.htm<---- NEW for 2013

  15. #135

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    Ok, Here we go again.

    Time to remove a couple 1 month old Mills and then remove all the Hot glue around them and solder in some new Mills.

    I'm all Done now. Once again I am finished with my Crossovers. I have like 6 extra Mills. I only replaced 4.

    Check out the pics for all the glue I removed.

    Sal
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    Last edited by Lasareath; 08-21-2007 at 04:56 PM.
    Polk Audio SDA SRS 1.2TL's
    With new Exotic wood, Sonicaps, Mills & RDO198's - Born on 4-24-1989 and Signed by Matthew Polk!!!!


    My Polk SDA SRS 1.2TL's http://www.LASAREATH.com/


    It All Started here: http://tinyurl.com/lasareath2

    Part Deux: http://tinyurl.com/lasareath3

    Car Stereo---->http://www.salsleaf.com/leaf_stereo/index.htm<---- NEW for 2013

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