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  1. #31

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    just remember, y7ou want to match the fuses to your wire going to the amp rather than the amp itself.

    Your amp has its own fuses to protect it. YOu need to protect your wire feeding your amps from burning out, therefore must put a fuse in that would be rated to that.
    That is also the reason you put it as close to the battery as possible. No use in protecing your amp when the wire fuses and burns your car out because your fuse is located in the boot.

  2. #32

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    Quote Originally Posted by MacLeod View Post
    True, but if you listen to your tunes loud or really bass heavy music, your amps can draw near their max so if yours are needing 50 amps and youre only giving them 40, you could be short changing your gear bro. ;)
    Any amp will likely never pull it's rated amperage unless there's an electrical malfunction. And running a smaller fuse won't "short change" the amp, it'll just cause the fuse to blow sooner, when you try to pass 50a through a 40a fuse it doesn't just whittle it down to 40a, it blows the fuse... And if your amp is rated for 60 and pulling 60 there's likely something wrong and your fuse is probably either already blown or just about to
    MacLeod: I guess youre lucky Polk has such lax hiring standards.

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  3. #33

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    Quote Originally Posted by najahaja View Post
    just remember, y7ou want to match the fuses to your wire going to the amp rather than the amp itself.

    Your amp has its own fuses to protect it. YOu need to protect your wire feeding your amps from burning out, therefore must put a fuse in that would be rated to that.
    Where on earth are you getting this from? you choose your fuses based on your total amperage draw for all the amplifiers on that line. Your power wire doesn't have a "fuse rating" and power wire won't burn out... If the coating gets striped and it contacts metal the electricity could arc causing a fire, but you're making it sound like the wire itself can get fried from just too much power... True there is a limit to how much current any given wire can carry, but when you try to exceed this limit it won't hurt the wire because the capacity of the wire is based on it's physical characteristics.




    Quote Originally Posted by najahaja View Post
    That is also the reason you put it as close to the battery as possible. No use in protecting your amp when the wire fuses and burns your car out because your fuse is located in the boot.
    Yes though, you do always want it by the battery...
    MacLeod: I guess youre lucky Polk has such lax hiring standards.

    Josh: Damn skippy!

  4. #34

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    You also choose your power wiring based on your power requirement. Having too small of a wire can lead to more than just lack of juice at the amplifier end.....
    Alpine: CDA-7949
    Alpine: PXA-H600
    Alpine: CHA-S624, KCA-420i, KCA-410C
    Rainbow: CS 265 Profi Phase Plug / SL 165
    ARC Audio: 4150-XXK / 1500v1-XXK
    JL Audio: 10W6v2 (x2)
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  5. #35

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    You dont choose the fuse based on the wire. You choose it based on the current draw youre pulling.

    You also choose your wire based on the current draw youre pulling as well so the fuse should line up with the wire on its on.

    You wouldnt use 8 gauge wire for a 2000 watt system. And you wouldnt stick a 120 amp fuse on a 500 watt system.
    polkaudio sound quality competitor since 2005
    MECA SQ Rookie of the Year 06 ~ MECA State Champ 06,07,08,11 ~ MECA World Finals 2nd place 06,07,08,09
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    polkaudio SR6500 --- polkaudio MM1040 x2 -- Pioneer P99 -- Rockford Fosgate P1000X5D

  6. #36

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    Melting the outer jacket of your power wire because it's too small is not a nice thing.....
    Alpine: CDA-7949
    Alpine: PXA-H600
    Alpine: CHA-S624, KCA-420i, KCA-410C
    Rainbow: CS 265 Profi Phase Plug / SL 165
    ARC Audio: 4150-XXK / 1500v1-XXK
    JL Audio: 10W6v2 (x2)
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  7. #37

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    I won't say capacitors are worthless and not necessary but it has alot to do with the type of amplifiers you are running. MTX and Rockford both recommend adding a capacitor when installing their amplifiers. Personally I see this as a sign of under designing the amplifier. Fortunately for both of these company's they also sell them. What luck. Both of these company's build their amps with unregulated power supplies as well as many others. This way as your voltage increases so does the power output of their amplifiers. 12.5 volts yields less power than 14.4 volts. You see this type of specifications all the time. If your amp has a regulated power supply and is built right you will not need a capacitor at all. These amps will give you the same amount of output regardless of the voltage level (11volts to 14.4 volts). Also as fuse ratings go the chances of you drawing 2000 watts from a amp while listening to music is extremely low. When you run a sinewave of say 40hz you can reach the max current draw but usually not when listening to music. If the amp has fuses in it them these will protect the amplifier and the one at the battery will protect the car. Use as small as you can get away with at the battery, JUST USE ONE. One little side note. The new Rockford Fosgate T600-2 power series amp incorporates a circuit that lowers output to keep the amp cool. The heatsink design is not large enough to carry the current load. The amp is 200 watts by two and bridgeable into 4ohms. You will get about 750 watts with 14.4 volts of input and 600 watts with 12.5 volts. This amp is $650.00. ON the other hand the ZED AUDIO Deuce is 200 watts /channel, 900 watts bridged into 4ohms, will not overheat and the power will not reduce because of a poor design. This amp does this at voltage levels of 10-14.4 volts and only cost $389.00. Plus the sound quality is excellent. Not bad.

  8. #38

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    I have used both Rockford Fosgate and MTX amplifiers without capacitors with no issues. I have never found a need to use them.

    I have a Rockford Fosgate T600-2 and a T400-4. I was running my T600-2 at 2ohms bridged for months with no issues. These amplifiers have alot of headroom, I would really get on them and not feel like they were hitting their limits during dynamic peaks. The time I had them in my car sometimes included drives of several hours each way. Other times I really cranked my music with no problems. The amount of power that is reduced amounts to about 1db, which is not really perceivable. Audison also employs a similar technique when their amps are driven to more than 50% below their recommended impedance, or when the amp is in a place that is not very suitable for cooling the amp off. I think these desings are worthwile as they allow you to keep listening to your music longer if conditions are hard on the amps. I would not say that Audison makes amplifiers that are not desingned well. I would actually say that the opposite is true, they have not earned their reputation by having faulty designs. I was actually very impressed with both the sound, output, and small size of these new RF amplifiers. This was coming from previously using an Arc Audio 4050-XXK, a 2100-XXK, a 1500-XXK, and a 4150-XXK. All of which have proven desings, and are very well known for being high end amplifiers.
    Last edited by 1996blackmax; 09-24-2007 at 09:21 PM.
    Alpine: CDA-7949
    Alpine: PXA-H600
    Alpine: CHA-S624, KCA-420i, KCA-410C
    Rainbow: CS 265 Profi Phase Plug / SL 165
    ARC Audio: 4150-XXK / 1500v1-XXK
    JL Audio: 10W6v2 (x2)
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  9. #39

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    Hey, i found these and i wanted you're opinion

    Pioneer Premier TS-W3001D4 vs Alpine Type X


    Submit thoughts please!!

  10. #40

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    Im partial to Alpine myself but flip a coin. Both are excellent.
    polkaudio sound quality competitor since 2005
    MECA SQ Rookie of the Year 06 ~ MECA State Champ 06,07,08,11 ~ MECA World Finals 2nd place 06,07,08,09
    08 Car Audio Nationals 1st ~ 07 N Georgia Nationals 1st ~ 06 Carl Casper Nationals 1st ~ USACi 05 Southeast AutumnFest 1st

    polkaudio SR6500 --- polkaudio MM1040 x2 -- Pioneer P99 -- Rockford Fosgate P1000X5D

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