Nevermind, problem fixed! Woohoo!
Nevermind, problem fixed! Woohoo!
Last edited by STLBlues; 10-03-2007 at 03:28 PM. Reason: Problem fixed
I'm sorry you're having a problem. Let's check the internal AC fuse first. To do this unplug the AC power cord from your wall outlet and remove the Phillips head screws that go around the circumference of the amplifier's input plate. The complete input plate should come away from the sub-woofer's enclosure. Look on the inside of the input plate near where the AC power cord goes through the input plate for a fuse holder. There should be a 5 Ampere, 250 Volt time delay fuse that is 5mm x 20mm in size. If the internal fuse wire is simply broken then get an exact replacement from any good quality electronics parts store. But, if the fuse is heavily blackened inside then there's no need to replace it, in all likelihood it will just blow again. Let me know what you find.
Hey Ken. I did exactly that, and found the fuse was blown. It wasn't heavily blackened, just a little black & broken. I replaced the fuse, and it works now. It just weirded me out when the sub started going on and off, on and off. Then it turned off permanently. I didn't think it was the fuse at first because of the back and forth...on and off. But hey, it's working again with a new fuse. I really hope it stays that way. This PSW1200 is my baby! Thank you.
Last edited by STLBlues; 10-03-2007 at 07:49 PM.
No problem, glad it solved the problem.
Have fun, Ken
Actually I have the same problem, and the fuse is pretty blacked out. It's black enough that I can't see if the fuse is broken or not. Are you saying that changing it will do no good in my case? Thanks.
Correct, a heavily blackened fuse would indicate a failure in some part of the amplifier as opposed to a spike in the incoming AC. It would be best to remove the amplifier, by first removing the AC power cord from the wall outlet, then taking out the screws that go around the circumference of the amplifier's input plate. The complete amplifier assembly will pull away from the cabinet. You should see some circuitry attached to the input plate and a red wire and a black wire that lead to the woofer(s). Remove these wires from the woofer, it might be a good idea to make some notes about the connections for future use. Then box the amplifier up and send it to Polk Audio, 2550 Britannia Blvd., Suite A, San Diego, CA. 92154. Please include a short note giving us your name, address, daytime telephone number and a copy of the sales receipt if you are within the warranty period.
You think it's a good idea to replace the fuse just to see how long the new fuse would last? Or I should just send in the amp for repair? I'm asking because my subwoofer isn't covered by warranty anymore. I bought it at crutchfield more than 5 years ago. Do you have a rough estimate for amplifier replacement?
Were you aware of anything unusual happening with your house electricity? Something that could cause a spike in the AC? Electrical storms or maybe working on power lines?
If not, then it is probably best to send the amplifier in to us and include a daytime telephone number for us to compare notes with you.
Take care, Ken
I replaced the blacked out fuse with a new one, and when I tried to turn the sub on, it blew again. The subwoofer never lighted up, so something is wrong with the amplifier, correct? Since I'm out of warranty, how much at the most would it cost me to fix it? If you are talking hundreds, then I think it's better to just save up and buy another sub.
If I decide to mail it, I'd like to ask you, how do you exactly pull the red, black wires away from the speakers? Thanks.
You are correct, the best thing to do is to send the amplifier to us, be sure and include a daytime telephone number. There isn't any charge for the service department to evaluate the unit and determine the best course of action. If you needed a completely new amplifier I'm sure Gil, in the service department, will work with you to resolve the issue as reasonably as possible. The two wires have metal fasteners on the end, usually if you wiggle the connector to loosen it up and then pull on it, it will come away from the terminals.
I replaced the fuse several times and it keeps blowing them. How do I contact someone about a new amplifier?
I have a PSW10 that just started humming today. It was fine last night and I turned it on this morning and about 10 seconds later it started humming. I turned everything off and disconnected the sub from the system. I plugged it back in and it still hummed. It hums whether it is turned on or off. Any help?
A good approach is to remove the grille cover and take off the decorative gasket that goes around the woofer's circumference. This will expose the screws that hold the woofer in place. Once these are removed the woofer will come away from the cabinet, giving you access to the woofer's terminals.
When you send the amplifier in for service request a replacement woofer gasket.
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