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  1. #1

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    Default What's needed to drive SDA's

    Sooner or later I'm going to get a pair of SDAs. What's need to drive them. At this point I have a NAD 2400 which is 100wpc. Is this sufficient power? I would think this would work for some models.. Could someone tell me which models will work with this amp?

    Thanks

  2. #2

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    I run SDA 1C with that much power but I don't play them real loud 14x16 room.

  3. #3

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    Running a parasound 2250 with 2100 pre, sounds good to me cept the SDA's need some mods.

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    100 real Watts from NAD is good, but depending on how loud you're playing. 3db = 2x power. I am super happy with my 130 WPC HK Citation 7.1 amp for my 1Cs.

  5. #5

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    It'll work with any SDA model. Will you get out of them what they are capable of? No effing way.
    'Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a turd by the clean end."

  6. #6

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    Quote Originally Posted by F1nut View Post
    It'll work with any SDA model. Will you get out of them what they are capable of? No effing way.
    This^^^^^^^^^
    If you stick with the later, unmodified 2 driver models like the CRS+ or 2Bs which are 6 ohm nominal, you should be OK at moderate levels. If you have a lead foot on the volume control, are using any of the earlier 4 ohm models, or later models with multiple drivers, It won't be pretty.
    Last edited by westmassguy; 10-04-2013 at 05:31 AM.
    Home Theater/2 Channel:
    Front: SDA-2ATL http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/show...ished...Almost
    Center: Custom http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/show...hannel-Project
    Surrounds & Rears: Custom http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/show...rround-Project
    Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, H-Nuts, BH5
    Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-350, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer


    www.dhsspeakerservice.com

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    Most around here say do not atepmt to run them through a stand alone avr at all , but if you have an avr w/ preouts or are going w/ seperates go w/ 200 wpc a side and you will have more than enough juice to make them come alive. Adcoms are all over the place as are B&K, Bryston and many ,many other stand alone power amps on the used market.
    2chl- Adcom 555- NAD 1020a pre- JVC-QL-A200 tt- Denon 1940 ci cdp- Samson - 9 outlet- Niles - 6 zone spkr selector- DCM TF 350s- ADC 303ax- KLH 331- Polk Audio '87 SDA 2Bs w/ ic cable (Dynamat extreme, black hole-5- Mills 0.5 resistor, liquid nails, RDO- 194 tweeters, Larry's rings, Armaflex gaskets, stained walnut tops )

    H/T- Toshiba au40" flat- Yamaha RX- V665 avr- YSD-11 Dock- I-Pod- Klipsch #500HD Speaker set- Sony ce 375 5 disc carosel cdp-

    Nikko 6065 receiver- JBL J2060

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    I was running a late model Yahama AVR w/ 120W/channel. My SRS's sounded really, really good. And let me say I think the Yamaha is very musical - absolutley killed the AVR it replaced of same power. Then I got separates - Pass pre-amp and a Parasound amp (high current and 200w/ch). Well, this killed the Yamy....

  9. #9

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    Lots of clean high current power allows any speakers to play louder, but also provides a level of clarity at lower volumes that low powered amps can't duplicate. F1 stated it pretty well.

    Buy as much power as you can afford. I would consider 200 wpc minimum. As Tim the Toolman Taylor used to say, "More Power"
    "Science is suppose to explain observations not dismiss them as impossible" - Norm on AA; 2.3TL's w/sonicaps/mills, polyswitches removed, Lg Solen inductors, RD-0198's, MW's dynamatted, Armaflex speaker gaskets, H-nuts, brass spikes, Cardas CCGR BP's, upgraded IC Cable, Black Hole Damping Sheet strips installed on back wall behind MW's & Tweeters, interior of cabinets sealed, AI-1 interface with 1000VA A-L transformer

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