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  1. #61

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    Quote Originally Posted by SCompRacer View Post
    You are correct; my solid hardwood was secured to the subfloor. I got float on the brain from PF2008.

    The engineered wood floor I installed over concrete in the lower level was made by Boen. It is 15mm (~5/8) thick with a 8mm wood layer (~5/16) so it can be refinished a couple of times if needed.
    That would be the stuff I would favor. They take the best of both worlds.

  2. #62

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    Quote Originally Posted by John30_30 View Post
    That would be the stuff I would favor. They take the best of both worlds.
    I'm not too concerned about the ability to resurface, for a few reasons.

    #1 Finding quality service that does great job at it. Lacquering a floor is not exactly something just anyone is qualified to do

    #2 The price of quality service. I don't know how much it would take but if basic floor installation is $2.49 over here, I would expect refinish to be at least double of that. For $4-5 you'll get completely new material (assuming you're doing the work yourself). Now I could be wrong about the price of the service but I don't think its that cheap.

  3. #63

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    Quote Originally Posted by Sami View Post
    I'm not too concerned about the ability to resurface, for a few reasons.

    #1 Finding quality service that does great job at it. Lacquering a floor is not exactly something just anyone is qualified to do

    #2 The price of quality service. I don't know how much it would take but if basic floor installation is $2.49 over here, I would expect refinish to be at least double of that. For $4-5 you'll get completely new material (assuming you're doing the work yourself). Now I could be wrong about the price of the service but I don't think its that cheap.
    Actually, the skill level to refinish a big area isn't all that high compared to some other areas like, say replacing & refinishing a select water-damage hardwood floor area, attention to detail is more the thing.
    But, I recall you mentioning allergy issues, so this would be something you'd have to steer clear of. It's dust & fume intensive type work. Or was that the other guy, SCompRacer?

    Okay-
    Just supposin' the Little Lady decided she can no longer tolerate the color.
    Rent a commercial floor sander(s), buy the belts, wear the breathing masks- if you're the guy with allergies, buy some kegs and get your buds to do it.
    Finishing part- I know you use the term lacquer generically, but as we all know, some variant of polyurethane or maybe even a spar-var is what goes on floors. Used to always be oil-based, but the water-based urethanes are really improved over the past few years to where you can use them. Advantage = no solvent-type fumes to speak of.
    And that's pretty DiY'er. Assuming there wasn't any crack-filling to do, you can take a squeegee and lay that stuff on. Ventilate, off-limits for traffic for a few days, tada.
    Last edited by John30_30; 10-23-2008 at 01:49 PM.

  4. #64

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    I am only allergic to dust mites, everything else is ok (except fireants but that's a different story). I do some woodwork (being a carpenters son it's in the nature) and getting a surface with lacquer or polyurethane (I have used both) to be satisfactory is not an easy task. It takes time even if you're a pro. Of course the level of finish acceptable varies by person so what looks good to someone else is unacceptable to others. Now, if you would only do stain finish, that's another story. Polyurethane is tougher but you do get much better looking finish with lacquer.

    The house I grew up in had real wood blanks downstairs, I think it was either acrylic lacquer or varnish finish.

  5. #65

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    fabric curtains on the wall where you want to deaden the reflex.they will absorb the sound.:)

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