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  1. #1

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    Question Questions About SDA 1 Speakers?

    Yesterday I picked up a pair of Polk SDA 1 speakers (my first set of Polks) knowing nothing about them other than Polk made some good speakers and these looked like some … they are in good cosmetic condition.

    After doing a little research here … it appears that these are early examples based on the two ports below the HF drivers … am I understanding that correctly?

    Unfortunately, the interconnecting cable was not included (there is a remote chance that the cable will turn up) … the cable connection receptacle has 2 pins (1 at 10 o'clock and 1 at 2 o'clock) and an egg-shaped horizontal hole (at 6 o'clock) ... is this a pin/blade connection?

    Assuming I have a pin/blade connection … can I use the modified RCA cable to connect the speakers? … it’s my understanding that Polk no longer sells a pin/blade cable … is that right?

    I have one other minor problem … the tips of two of the plastic nipples that hold on the grill covers have broken off … they are still in the respective holes on the grill covers … don’t think I can glue them back on the plastic bases … any suggestions? … fortunately the wooden ledge below the grills keep them from falling off.
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  2. #2

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    They look like basic SDA 1's (not A, B, or C) from 1984-1985. Low serial numbers for sure and they do look like they're in good shape. You'll get a lot of comments about upgrading those tweeters and probably the crossovers. As for the cable, others here know more about that than I do (I have plain 2's & 1C's which are both different) so I will defer to them on your options.

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  3. #3

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    Wow. I hope that cable shows up. That is neither pin blade(which came out years after your speakers did), or blade/blade. Call Ken a Polk CS. He is awesome. He will point you in the right direction. Also repost in trouble shooting. It is a hotline to CS.
    Welcome to Club Polk
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    Please. Please contact me a ben62670 @ yahoo.com. Make sure to include who you are, and you are from Polk so I don't delete your email. Also I am now physically unable to work on any projects. If you need help let these guys know. There are many people who will help if you let them know where you are.
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  4. #4

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    I don't know much about that cable other than one has come up on eBay from time to time. I'd suggest you call Polk to find out more about it.
    'Political Correctness'.........defined

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  5. #5

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    That connector looks like the same connector that is used to connect the HF (tweeter) module on the RTA-12'Cs. Put on your reading glasses, get a flashlight, and see if you can get any ID numbers off of it. I recall that is may be an old "cinch brand" connector or something similar. I am at work now but I can take a look at my RTA-12's when I get home. There is a chance that you could get the mating connectors and fab your own cable. I will post a few pics of the RTA-12 connector and the mating connector. You may even find a pic in an existing post here.

    Here is a link to the current Cinch Catalog. Check out the "jones plugs-series 300" section of the catalog. I do not see an exact match shell-wise, but the 2 pin Blade-blade connectors are mighty close

    http://www.cinch.com/products/pdf/Mi...1148360457.pdf
    Last edited by Boywonder; 02-13-2008 at 12:23 PM.

  6. #6

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    Well, ignore my post above, the RTA-12C HF module connector is an AMP product. I will post pics of the connector tomorrow (my #^#$& card reader is not working). If your connector is the same one, I can attempt to determine if the mating AMP part is still available. Can you post an extreme close-up of the connector on the back of the speaker?

  7. #7

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    Here are pics of the HF module connector on the RTA-12. These connectors have 3 pins. It appears that your connector has 2, but it is difficult to tell from the pic.....If your connector looks like this one (except for pin count), please post.
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  8. #8

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    The receptacle on the back of the speaker looks like the one you posted except there is a hole at 6 o'clock instead of a pin ...

    Attached is a pic ... sorry about the focus but my old HP camera doesn't have a close-up lens.
    Attached Images  

  9. #9

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    Are there three pins in the connector?

    Disregard, I see the (blurry) hole. I'll make an attempt to find the mating amp connector, and let you know....These may be obsolete.

  10. #10

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    Bingo, I found the part, it's called an amp snap-lock circular plastic (CPC) connector, also known as an amp econoseal connector. The plugs (which are what you need-2 pcs) are $6.49/ea. You also need to order crimp socket contacts, and have a crimp tool for these connectors. The crimp contacts can usually be ordered in bags of 10 pcs, you need 4. They should be quite inexpensive, even gold plated (if that's an option).

    The plug connector data is here:

    http://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/sto...17&pa=839017PS

    According to Jameco, compatible contacts are 66100-6; 66101-1; 66580-2; 66590-1; 51565-2 These various P/N's probably represent different plating, wire gauge, and whether they are for manual crimping or machine crimping.

    If you are not skilled at selecting the contacts, I can select the proper P/N depending on your planned wire guage, and plating (gold, tin, etc.) I probably also have a crimper here at work if you do not have access to one.

    Now you just need to determine the wire length and guage you want and place an order.......You can probably build the cable for less than $25 if you don't go nuts on the wire (2 conductor cable).

    The max wire insulation size for these connectors is .130" according to the drawings.
    Attached Images
    Last edited by Boywonder; 02-14-2008 at 04:01 PM.

  11. #11

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    Thanks ... I really appreciate all your help ... you are the ... BoyWonder :) ...

    My skills are limited but I am not helpless ... the OM on polksda.com recommends a 16 gauge wire for connecting the speakers to the amp/receiver ... would that work for the connecting cable? ... I think the original connecting cable was 20' long.

    As I mentioned ... there is a remote chance that the original connecting cable is still around ... I hope to find that out one way or the other tomorrow (Fri.).
    Last edited by Chip-HP; 02-14-2008 at 05:49 PM.

  12. #12

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    Unless you plan on spacing the speakers 20' apart, I'd go shorter on the homebrew IC cable.......

    16ga wire for the IC cable is fine, although you will probably get lots of opinions about wire size. The stock IC cable is not very beefy.

  13. #13

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    Quote Originally Posted by Boywonder View Post
    Bingo, I found the part, it's called an amp snap-lock circular plastic (CPC) connector, also known as an amp econoseal connector. The plugs (which are what you need-2 pcs) are $6.49/ea. You also need to order crimp socket contacts, and have a crimp tool for these connectors. The crimp contacts can usually be ordered in bags of 10 pcs, you need 4. They should be quite inexpensive, even gold plated (if that's an option).

    The plug connector data is here:

    http://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/sto...17&pa=839017PS

    According to Jameco, compatible contacts are 66100-6; 66101-1; 66580-2; 66590-1; 51565-2 These various P/N's probably represent different plating, wire gauge, and whether they are for manual crimping or machine crimping.

    If you are not skilled at selecting the contacts, I can select the proper P/N depending on your planned wire guage, and plating (gold, tin, etc.) I probably also have a crimper here at work if you do not have access to one.

    Now you just need to determine the wire length and guage you want and place an order.......You can probably build the cable for less than $25 if you don't go nuts on the wire (2 conductor cable).

    The max wire insulation size for these connectors is .130" according to the drawings.
    Unfortunately ... the original connecting cable didn't turn up ... so I need your help selecting the contacts and wire ... I will defer to your judgement ... Thanks

    I don't have a crimper ... but am willing to buy one ... assuming they don't cost "an arm and a leg".

  14. #14

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    The crimper probably costs an arm and a leg.......I'll get back with you shortly on the contacts.


    Chip-I just PM'd you on the contacts
    Last edited by Boywonder; 02-18-2008 at 02:50 PM.

  15. #15

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    Crimpers look roughly like the pics below:

    There are zillions of crimpers for different contacts although there is some overlap, and frequently, one can make do.

    The last picture is a generic crimper that may work, without having contacts to play with it's hard to tell.
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  16. #16

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    Thanks ... I sent you an email since I can only receive PMs until I have 10 posts (only 5 more to go ... I guess I could bump this thread 5 times).

  17. #17

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    Chip-Jameco has the 66101 socket contacts in stock for 99 cents each, and the 66590-1 contacts in stock for 31 cents each. The 66101 contacts are gold plated and the 66590 contacts are tin plated. Either one will work fine.

    The wire insulation dia range for these crimp contacts is .080-.100"

  18. #18

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    I ordered 3 plugs and 6 of each of the 2 contacts ... I should have them middle of next week ... I'll report back when I get the plugs.

    Thanks again for all your help :).

  19. #19

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    "I have one other minor problem … the tips of two of the plastic nipples that hold on the grill covers have broken off … they are still in the respective holes on the grill covers … don’t think I can glue them back on the plastic bases … any suggestions? … fortunately the wooden ledge below the grills keep them from falling off."
    There are automotive adhesives that will permanently repair the pegs and they hold extremely well. I've used the 3M brand at a local body shop and still holding up after a couple of years. The adhesives are used in repairing plastics parts damaged in collisions. You might want to call a local shop and have them repair the pegs for you.
    HB

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    You can also try Polk support for those pins, I believe they sell replacements now.
    My equipment sig felt inadequate and deleted itself.

  21. #21

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    Yea, I've been noticing that Polk IS taking care of their product line with replacement parts, upgrades, mods, and "needed" items. Other companies should take notice of the way Polk treats the faithful.
    Two thumbs up. You've brought me back to the fold.
    Thanks
    HB

  22. #22

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    Quote Originally Posted by HB27 View Post
    "I have one other minor problem … the tips of two of the plastic nipples that hold on the grill covers have broken off … they are still in the respective holes on the grill covers … don’t think I can glue them back on the plastic bases … any suggestions? … fortunately the wooden ledge below the grills keep them from falling off."

    There are automotive adhesives that will permanently repair the pegs and they hold extremely well. I've used the 3M brand at a local body shop and still holding up after a couple of years. The adhesives are used in repairing plastics parts damaged in collisions. You might want to call a local shop and have them repair the pegs for you.
    HB
    Thanks ... I'll give it a try ... got nothing to lose ... my only concern is that the bonding surface is very small.
    Last edited by Chip-HP; 02-26-2008 at 01:38 PM.

  23. #23

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    Quote Originally Posted by Rivrrat View Post
    You can also try Polk support for those pins, I believe they sell replacements now.
    It's not obvious to me how to remove the existing rubber pins ... do they just pull out?

  24. #24

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    There is a glue called Welder I think by Goop that works very well. You could probably use Plastic model glue also.
    Quote Originally Posted by Timothy Smith View Post
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  25. #25

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    Chip-The way I remove them is to drill them out with a small drill bit 1/8"-3/16" or so, then pry out the plastic that remains with a small pick. Don't drill too deep as on a few of my Polk Cabinets, the holes in the front baffle a through-holes with sealer/glue gooped on the backside; just try not to drill through the glue/goop. If you do, you can always re-seal with hot melt glue or some caulking.

    The part of the headlock that goes in the hole is finned/ribbed so that you can hand install them, once you drill them out they remove easily. Most of the time, the headlock will come out on the drill bit when you pull it out.

    My guess is that the grill headlocks are ABS, so you will need a cement that will bond ABS-you could try the ABS cement for drain pipe at home depot, although I think it would be easier to just replace them. If you are planning on sending me your connectors, I will throw a couple of grill headlocks back in the return box.

  26. #26

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    Thanks for the info ...

    I got another email from Jameco advising me that my order shipped on Tue via Priority Mail which means I should receive it Fri (3/1) ... apparently the "shipped notice" I received last Wed was in error

  27. #27

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    Received pkg today ... plugs fit fine ... now to find the appropriate cable ... Lowe's and Home Depot are both within 1/2 mile of the house.

  28. #28

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    The question of how the IC should be wired has come ... should Pin 1 on Speaker #1 be wired to Pin 1 on Speaker #2 (or "crossed-over" to Pin 2 on Speaker #2)? ... I raised that question in Trouble Shooting ...

  29. #29

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    Welcome to the Club Polk Forums Chip!

    Ahhhhhhh! The "mystery cable" returns again. There is a little more info Here

    For some more help with the wiring of this speaker, you may want to call Ken Swauger:

    Customer Service & Tech Support:
    polkcs@polkaudio.com
    800-377-7655, Option 1 toll free

    He may be able to give you some more info, tell him about this thread or send an email with the link.

    Good luck! Tell us more about your progress.
    Carl

  30. #30

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    Thanks ... Carl ... Ken has already responded in this Trouble Shooting thread ...

    Thanks to BoyWonder's help I should have an IC for my SDA 1s shortly.

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