Power Concerns

[poolshark]

How much power can I suck from a single outlet/circuit?

I wanted to get the Belkin PF60, but now I'm wondering if I can even take advantage of it.

I need to hook up a HK receiver (pre-amp), 5 channel amp, 52" LCD, satellite box, and PS3.

The power consumption on the amp alone is 1500 watts.


Do I need to run another line back to the breaker?



ref.
PF60: http://catalog.belkin.com/PureAV_det...duct_Id=178925
2250a: http://www.parasound.com/vintage/hca2205a.php

[dorokusai]

No, you're fine.

[tcrossma]

I run all of my equipment off a single wall outlet, with my Monster power center plugged into one outlet and my amp plugged into the other. I've wondered if adding a dedicated line would improve anything, but it sounds and runs great the way it is.

[dorokusai]

A dedicated run has some perceived benefits such as a lower noise floor and if it's easy to do....there's certainly no harm in doing so.

[reeltrouble1]

A dedicated line will not cheat on you. Its yours, well, because its dedicated.

RT1

[chargerman426]

it becomes a problem if your cercut is smaller then what you need. im running 2 carver M1.5t and alot of other things but if i turn them on in the right order im fine. keep in mind im doing this on a 15amp circuit braker which is small is the high power audio world.

[venomclan]

A dedicated line will not cheat on you. Its yours, well, because its dedicated.
RT1

LOL, yes but when time goes by and they check out those new sexy outlets...could be a deal breaker.

I have the PF60 and use with all my gear, a 36" CRT and with my former Krell amp along with 2 other high powered amps. You should have no problem.
Venom

[mmadden28]

At 120v on a 15 amp circuit=max is 1800 watts where if you hit that one would hope the circuit would trip. If the circuit trips-well you'll know your answer.

I myself would like to know how close to the limit I am pushing my AC. So I will be measuring what my max draw is on all of my equipment as well as each peice separately.

I just got a new amp and reciever myself (Emotiva XPA-5 and Onkyo SR805) and its rated "Hungry" so I am considering running a new 20 amp ciruit to my HT area (although a second 15a would be sufficient, but I might as well -its the same amount of work). I just have to do all my measurements now-I haven't done that yet on my HT setup.

I just ordered the Belkin PF60 (buy.com $206) should be here next week-haven't played with it yet so I can't comment on the readouts it can provide. However I have used the Kill-A-Watt EZ. I believe its about $40 (although you can get a lower model from $15-$20). It will show current, amps, va, volts, and wattage. It will only work up to 15 amps (I haven't seen a 20 amp ver yet), so that type of device will work for you-if you trip a breaker then, well, you know you've gone too far.

If you already happen to own a clamp-on ammeter-you can also measure the draw at the circuit panel-but I would imagine that if you had one of those-you probably wouldn't be asking your original question (no that's not a dig).

So if you want to know for sure, measure your stuff...As I have been learning on this board-headroom is a good thing-I would say especially so for electricity, as far as safety and annoyance (trips) goes-Just make sure you work the system to get the highest measurement-play it loud, have the TV on (I heard all white screen is the best?) and the PVR (if you have one)
The DVD player,etc are probably insignificant, but you could measur them separately just to know.
I can't comment on any sonic effects an overloaded vs. underloaded circuit may have.

Another really cool thing about the Kill-a-Watt (EZ version) is you can enter in your local electric rate, and it will tell you how much its costing you to run your equipment (whatever is plugegd into it.) It will show actual use, as well as forecast the ocsts per hour, per day, per week, and per year. It only needs a few minutes of use to start forcasting. And its smart enough to factor in usage (duty cycle). So if you only use your HT for 3 hours a day, and you let it measure for a few days-the forecasted cost will be more accurate. I found out my Prelit Christmas tree was drawing 400 watts. Holy crap! Didn't leave that thing on overnight for a night light anymore.
Once you get your final values (if you do this), its probably a good idea not to mention them (or the cost) to the significant other. ;)

-Madden

[mmadden28]

I wanted to get the Belkin PF60, but now I'm wondering if I can even take advantage of it.

What do you mean you're not sure you can take advantage of it?

[mmadden28]

Another really cool thing about the Kill-a-Watt (EZ version)

I forgot to mention that it also shows the Power factor (just wiki it), which is essentialy the efficiency - You can get an idea of how much power is wasted.

[tonyb]

I take it as you being worried that your 1500 watt amp is getting you close to the edge,truth is,your amp will most likely never come close to useing it's full wattage.You'd be surprised how little,you actually use.

[venomclan]

I take it as you being worried that your 1500 watt amp is getting you close to the edge,truth is,your amp will most likely never come close to useing it's full wattage.You'd be surprised how little,you actually use.

Exactly. I have never pulled more than 3.8 amps according to my PF60.
V

[zingo]

I was looking at the Outlaw 7x200 at 8 ohms, but settled to the smaller 7x100 due to the fact that a dedicated outlet is not an option right now. Outlaw actually recommends that you install a dedicated outlet in the manual; awesome.

[mmadden28]

I'll be connecting most of my equipment tonight-Maybe even the amp (I want to sound test the Onkyo by itself first so I can testify to any difference).
So I'll take some measurements for each piece of equipment and post back the results
I Think I'll put the (my) ratings in my sig as well-perhaps start a new trend. Might be good info for people to use when calculating 'in-use' draw vs. max possible draw? No? Maybe include idle, avg and max? Maybe somebody already compiled this somewhere?

-Madden

[mmadden28]

I was looking at the Outlaw 7x200 at 8 ohms, but settled to the smaller 7x100 due to the fact that a dedicated outlet is not an option right now. Outlaw actually recommends that you install a dedicated outlet in the manual; awesome.

As does the Emotiva XPA-5 (which lists 1500 watts on the rear panel)-Now I am really curious what my actual max draw is/will be. Maybe I can get away with not having to run a new line?-We'll see.

[reeltrouble1]

welll I am sure I am just dumb and like Sgt. Schultz no nothing, but I did see the table lights dim, bulb blow, breakers pop, amp pcb board fuses blow using a dedicated 15 amp line in the Shed, but whatta I know.

Yea, sure you will be fine.

RT1-user of 30 amp power lines. Vladimir Shutnov=="Is very powerful amplifier, you need 30-40 amp line, you don't think" Seriously, I guess it depends on how much stuff you plug in and what is also on the circuit.

[treitz3]

I have had two M1.5t's in one system and I can tell you right now, it was a breeze to blow the 15 amp breaker. Often.

[carversound]

I have a house that at one time was a business I have for where system is a 30 amp breaker.
I have 2-1.5ts/c-2/tx-2/sony es cassette/denon and carver cd/dish network/100 gallon fish tank/65 inch 1080 tv/4 lights and a clock. On that 30 amp, Never had a problem. It dont even dim the light when I open the system up. I do run some ps audio power strips.

[poolshark]

What do you mean you're not sure you can take advantage of it?

Meaning having the ability to plug everything into the Belkin as opposed to getting a second power unit, for say, the amp itself. Poorly worded, sorry.

Like you're considering, I may just run a 20A line. It would be relatively easy for me and would offer some additional peace of mind.

Thanks for all your advice. Very helpful.

[zingo]

I have a house that at one time was a business I have for where system is a 30 amp breaker.

Awesome and you are so lucky! That would be a sweet little gem to find.