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  1. #1

    Member Sales Rating: (6)

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    Apr 2008
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    Default Need help with old powered sub - little/no output

    I have an Acoustic Research ARS-P108 sub claiming 100W RMS @ 4ohms to an 8" driver with a couple very minor tears (like, razor incision) in its surround that I wouldn't think would affect short-term performance. Paired up to my receiver and RTi8s, however, it disappears unless cranked up/+10 to the LFE channel through receiver, and when it is cranked up the quality of the bass is... garbage. Just sloppy and a little distorted. I have a couple of questions:

    1 - Is it possible the sub is working fine, and is just a POS?

    2 - Is it possible the sub is working fine, but the RTi8s are providing enough bass in the 40-60hz area that an 8" sub won't help much?

    3 - Is it possible the sub is not working properly, and a replacement driver should be installed/tested before writing it off?

    4 - Is it possible it's not working, is and has always been a POS, and needs to be thrown into the nearest electronics recycling bin and forgotten?

    The price was right on this (FREE!) so I was hoping it would hold me over until I graduate college next year. I'm in a smallish apartment with a smallish 16 X 13 listening room. Would one of the Dayton subs be a good place to look? Would the 8" help me out and be apartment-friendly? How about the Polk PSW110 - Amazon has some customer returns for $105, but I haven't seen any favorable reviews outside of their product page and no one here seems to be using one. Are there any other $100ish sub solutions that could do justice to the RTi8s?

    In 2-channel stereo, I'm 95% happy with the RTi8s basscabilities. Every now and then I don't hear something I know is there and it bothers me, but for the most part I can't complain and, after all, I AM in an apartment and bass leads to eviction much more quickly than midrange.

    So - Simple fix on the AR, Dayton, or Polk?
    Currently listening to:

    Marantz SR5004
    Sony BDP-S370
    Apple TV V2
    Audio Technica AT-LP120
    Mirage CMD-5 x 5
    Bic H-100

  2. #2

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    Default

    Get a velodyne. I've had a 10" velodyne since 95. Still slams!
    Front RTI4s
    Center CSI3
    Velodyne ULD-18 Sub
    Pioneer DV-563A Dvd, SACD, DVD audio player
    Sony CDP-CX355 300 disc CD player
    Technics SL-7 turntable
    Yamaha RX-V1400 A/V Reciever
    Dish Network DVR
    Playstation 2 and 3 both optical out
    Sony Wega 34" Widescreen CRT HDTV

  3. #3

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    Try hooking it up the "Polk" way and see if that makes a difference (bypass the sub out on the AVR and go into the sub from your AVR front left and right channels with speaker lead and out of the sub to the speakers).

    I recently picked up a new Denon 3808 and tried the sub out on it, but I have reverted back to the "Polk" way as it is noticeably better. I have the PSW505, so size doesn't matter. Your sub will also kick in a very low volume on 2 channel as well. Give it a try and let us know how you go.

  4. #4

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    I hooked it up with speaker line input, and the output is definitely much higher than even the LFE channel at +12db. However, it sounds like the sub is trying to output full-range sound regardless of where I have it crossed. It's very strange to hear male voices and slide guitars coming out of a sub. I think this thing might be toast.
    Currently listening to:

    Marantz SR5004
    Sony BDP-S370
    Apple TV V2
    Audio Technica AT-LP120
    Mirage CMD-5 x 5
    Bic H-100

  5. #5

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    Quote Originally Posted by RutgersFTW View Post
    I hooked it up with speaker line input, and the output is definitely much higher than even the LFE channel at +12db. However, it sounds like the sub is trying to output full-range sound regardless of where I have it crossed. It's very strange to hear male voices and slide guitars coming out of a sub. I think this thing might be toast.
    Sorry - forgot to mention to set the speakers to large and no sub in the AVR menu
    Regards - Gaz from the land of Oz

    Main System
    Pioneer SC-LX86K (your Elite SC-68)
    Emotiva MPS-2 7 Channel Amp (driving all LSi's)
    Cambridge Audio Azur 740C
    Polk Audio Cherry LSi9s - LSiC - Cherry LSi7s - PSW505
    Pioneer BDP-LX55 (your Elite BDP-53FD)
    Panasonic TH-P60UT50A 60' 3D Plasma
    Foxtel Digital HD+
    Belkin - Pure AV PF40

    Bedroom System
    Pioneer VSX520 K
    Oppo DV-980H
    Polk Audio SurroundBAR - PSW250
    Fujitsu P42HHS10W/P42HHS10A 42' HD Plasma - HD STB

  6. #6

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    Does the sub have a variable crossover dial? If so, it shouldn't matter what the AVR is sending to it, assuming you have the low-pass crossover set correctly on the sub it shouldn't be outputting sound much above the crossover point. If you have the crossover set correctly on the sub and you're hearing voices it's possible something is wrong with it.
    Speakers: Polk LSi15
    Pre: Adcom GFP-750 with HT Bypass
    Amp: Pass Labs X-150
    CD/DVD Player: Classe CDP-10
    Interconnects: MIT Shortgun S3 Pro XLR
    Speaker cables: MIT MH-750 bi-wire
    TT:Micro Seiki DD-35
    Cartridge:Denon DL-160
    Phono Pre:PS Audio GCPH

  7. #7

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    Quote Originally Posted by VXR8 View Post
    Sorry - forgot to mention to set the speakers to large and no sub in the AVR menu
    I'm already running them large since the sub is MIA most of the time.

    Interestingly, the Audyssey set-up (whose settings I didn't use anyway) didn't hear the sub during setup. I also noticed that if I pause a DVD it will auto power-off and not come back on whether hooked up line-in or LFE. Is this the fault of the sub or the receiver?
    Currently listening to:

    Marantz SR5004
    Sony BDP-S370
    Apple TV V2
    Audio Technica AT-LP120
    Mirage CMD-5 x 5
    Bic H-100

  8. #8

    Member Sales Rating: (6)

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    Quote Originally Posted by tcrossma View Post
    Does the sub have a variable crossover dial? If so, it shouldn't matter what the AVR is sending to it, assuming you have the low-pass crossover set correctly on the sub it shouldn't be outputting sound much above the crossover point. If you have the crossover set correctly on the sub and you're hearing voices it's possible something is wrong with it.
    Yeah, the sub was crossed at 80 but I dropped it all the way to 50hz after hearing the strangeness and there was no change. Maybe the amp's flaked out.

    I looked at buying replacement parts through Parts Express but it will cost more than replacing it with a new Dayton sub. If I were to take the plunge on one of the Daytons, should I get the regular I see recommended all over AVS, eCoustics, and the like, or spend a little more for the 8" Hsu? The return policy at Parts Express isn't as friendly as Costco or Amazon so I really want to get it right the first time.
    Currently listening to:

    Marantz SR5004
    Sony BDP-S370
    Apple TV V2
    Audio Technica AT-LP120
    Mirage CMD-5 x 5
    Bic H-100

  9. #9

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    Quote Originally Posted by RutgersFTW View Post
    I have an Acoustic Research ARS-P108 sub claiming 100W RMS @ 4ohms to an 8" driver with a couple very minor tears (like, razor incision) in its surround that I wouldn't think would affect short-term performance. Paired up to my receiver and RTi8s, however, it disappears unless cranked up/+10 to the LFE channel through receiver, and when it is cranked up the quality of the bass is... garbage. Just sloppy and a little distorted. I have a couple of questions:

    1 - Is it possible the sub is working fine, and is just a POS?

    2 - Is it possible the sub is working fine, but the RTi8s are providing enough bass in the 40-60hz area that an 8" sub won't help much?

    3 - Is it possible the sub is not working properly, and a replacement driver should be installed/tested before writing it off?

    4 - Is it possible it's not working, is and has always been a POS, and needs to be thrown into the nearest electronics recycling bin and forgotten?

    The price was right on this (FREE!) so I was hoping it would hold me over until I graduate college next year. I'm in a smallish apartment with a smallish 16 X 13 listening room. Would one of the Dayton subs be a good place to look? Would the 8" help me out and be apartment-friendly? How about the Polk PSW110 - Amazon has some customer returns for $105, but I haven't seen any favorable reviews outside of their product page and no one here seems to be using one. Are there any other $100ish sub solutions that could do justice to the RTi8s?

    In 2-channel stereo, I'm 95% happy with the RTi8s basscabilities. Every now and then I don't hear something I know is there and it bothers me, but for the most part I can't complain and, after all, I AM in an apartment and bass leads to eviction much more quickly than midrange.

    So - Simple fix on the AR, Dayton, or Polk?
    J&R has the Polk PSW303 on sale for $160 + $27 shipping.
    This is approx $200 off list price.
    http://www.jr.com/JRProductPage.process?Product=3652387

    That sub should hold you over. I'm not a salesman either just a Polk speaker owner. I have two Polk PSW10, PSW505 & DSW600 subwoofers in different rooms along with Polk R series, Monitors and LSi's.

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