SR Series Component Amplification

[frosty2k]

Hello polkies,

I've been researching new speakers for my 06 RSX for the last two months, and have decided on going with Polk Audio SR series. Currently I'm deciding whether to go with the 5250 or 6500, mostly because the 6500 is going to require some modification to fit in my factory openings. In addition, I had originally decided to pick up the PA500.4, but due to the Polk amps not being widely available near me (and slightly lower power consumption), I decided to switch to JL amps.

I've been reading these forums for the last two weeks, which has answered many of the questions I originally had, but not quite all of them. My question for you all is this: how much amplification can the SR series tweeters and woofers handle independantly?

On the Polk websites and other places I see 100W RMS for the 5250 and 125W RMS for the 6500, but I assume this is for both speakers combined. I am planning on using the bi-amplification feature to power one component set from a single 4 channel amplifier, but I want to make sure that the tweets and woofers can handle the full power of a single 75W RMS channel.

At the moment, I'm looking at 3 possible amps, one with 75Wx4, one with 150Wx4 and one with 75Wx2 150Wx2.

I'm going to be using the Eclipse CD7100 to run the system, which is supposed to be a maximum of 8v on the rca outs.

Ideally, I would like to use a more powerful amp, and back off the gain to a given speaker set for more flexibility. Im not sure if I'll be able to do this if the 8v RCAs are actually putting out that level at the amp. I would rather use lower power, than have blown tweeters.

In addition, at a later date I plan on adding a single SR 12" using approximately 750W RMS.

Any information you guys can provide would be highly appreciated.:)

Thanks,

P.S. What's up with Polk suddenly lowering the warranty on the SR Components from 3 years to 1 year? Are they going to be discontinued?:(

[Kinetic]

buy the SR6500 (I have them on my Honda) and
buy the 150 x 4 amp there is a JL Slash wich is very nice.

then use the four channels to amp your SRs (bi amp)

put the gains of your amp, at the half way (as it suppossed to be), so you give 75W each driver (per channel) instead of 150W per channel

with this you can have the 75W per channel without any distortion, just nice clean power.

now you can go all the volume up, clean and loud.

there are other people here wich can give you more precise opinions.

[dirthog]

I'm currently running 100 watts to the 6500 woofers and 50 watts to the tweeters. I have an active setup so I adjust the gains from my deck, leaving head room for the amps.

I measured the amp output using a dmm and adjusted by ear using the deck after that.

[MacLeod]

The JL 300/4 would be a very good match for bi-amping either the SR5250's or the SR6500's.

Just use common sense with the gains and volume and youll be fine.

[audiofiend]

Just to follow up,

Is there a specific wattage for the SR6500/SR5250 woofer and a separate wattage for the tweeter,

or is the crossover capable of handling 125W X 4 channels which allows you to adjust\limit the gain for the tweeter?


I'm assuming this is a reason the JL amp has 2 channels @ 125W and the other 2 channels @ 75W


Also, How important is the damping factor spec of an amp and what is a good number to shoot for?

When I was looking at PDX amps, this spec seemed lower than some other options but still good reviews

Negligible?

Thanks for the help
:) Ryan

[dirthog]

Is there a specific wattage for the SR6500/SR5250 woofer and a separate wattage for the tweeter,

Only if you are going to run active (not use the passive crossover) using a differant prossecor to set crossover points.

or is the crossover capable of handling 125W X 4 channels which allows you to adjust\limit the gain for the tweeter?

Yes, each crossover can handle 125w.

[frosty2k]

The JL 300/4 would be a very good match for bi-amping either the SR5250's or the SR6500's.

As the resident SQL Guru, your response carries the most weight for me. I was hoping you would say to go ahead and pump 150W into the tweets. I wanted to have the matching amps for my mains and sub, but the HD series doesn't come with less than 150x4, and the 500/1v2 sounds like it would underpower an SR sub.

Just use common sense with the gains and volume and youll be fine.

So... when the tweeters start melting a hole in my dashboard, the gains are set properly? Gotcha :D

[audiofiend]

thought so but wanted to clarify:D

thanks,

Ryan

[frosty2k]

put the gains of your amp, at the half way (as it suppossed to be), so you give 75W each driver (per channel) instead of 150W per channel

This is what I was originally hoping to do, but since my HU line level outputs can do 8v maximum (in theory), I should not be touching the gain knob at all, as it is an 8v-0.2v range.
With your HU, setting the gain at 50% would set it to about 4v.. the ideal setting for your 4v output.

I think I'm going to have to setup the DMM and see what kind of line level voltage I have given 3/4 volume at the amp input point.

Then again, right now I'm using a junky Sony amp with a 2v-0.2v adjustment at about 60% gain and it hasn't exploded yet.

[DemonAstroth]

Well, our systems will be similar...

I have a CD7100
Eclipse XA4000 amp
and i just bought a pair of SR5250s, which I will be biamping and running active.

What made me go for the 5250's is what MacLeod said to me in a different thread.

I'll report!

[frosty2k]

Well, our systems will be similar...

I have a CD7100
Eclipse XA4000 amp
and i just bought a pair of SR5250s, which I will be biamping and running active.

What made me go for the 5250's is what MacLeod said to me in a different thread.

I'll report!

I actually just got home from work, and whipped out my (flaky) DMM. I set all EQ and fader settings to flat, then using a disc with a -1DB 50hz test tone, my sub line outputs were putting out 2.04v at 65 volume (80 maximum). I'll have to find a 0db tone somewhere and try again. I'm not sure what difference a 1db on the source will make but i know that in theory 0 is the maximum source level so it is best for setting the gains.
I'm guessing 8v probably means the thing will output 8v with all EQ settings cranked all the way, and the volume at 80. Then again I might be loosing some voltage b/c I'm still using the HU's built in amp.

Oh ya, and btw my gains were way to high... was showing 25v out to the speaker when they should have been 18v for the amp's RMS rating... good thing my speaker has much higher power handling than my amp can output :o

[MacLeod]

The output power for HU's is rated kinda like their speaker outputs. Ya know, 50x4 when its actually 12x4? Same thing here. 8 volt preouts!! (at full tilt boogie max - 3 volts RMS).

[killerb]

i measured over 5 volts rms output on my headunit with my oscope. i dont know if this is typical though.