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  1. #1

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    Default Modifications for LSi15's?

    Just a question, I have the LSi 15's for my fronts, and the LSiC for the center, anyway, is there any "mods" that i can perform to enhance the speakers. Such as, I remember reading that people replace the connection between the speaker posts with speaker wire, will this help? Anyway, what else have you guys done to the speakers, any information would help as I am curious to know what people are doing. Thanks for your time!!

  2. #2

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    There have not been alot of people modding the LSi's Here is what I came up with from a quick search (and memory).

    The the best and most consistantly successful mods are:
    • Drive them with a high current amp
    • Work with placement (toe them in a little)
    • Check into room acoustics (perhaps adding acoustic panels)

    Whatever you end up doing, report back any successes or failures and good luck with your project.

    Michael

    (oh, and Welcome to Club Polk :))
    Last edited by McLoki; 07-13-2008 at 10:31 AM.
    Mains.............Polk LSi15 (Cherry)
    Center............Polk LSiC (Crossover upgraded)
    Surrounds.......Polk LSi7 (Gloss Black - wood sides removed and crossovers upgraded)
    Subwoofers.....SVS 25-31 CS+ and PC+ (both 20hz tune)
    Pre\Pro...........NAD T163 (Modded with LM4562 opamps)
    Amplifier.........Cinepro 3k6 (6-channel, 500wpc@4ohms)

  3. #3

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    When you say plugging the power port were you referring to the two small ports between the midrange drivers and the tweeter or the big power port at the bottom of the speaker? I'd like to try this tweak as well

  4. #4

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    Thanks for spending the time and providing those links, definitely helpful and informational. They are GREAT speakers, there really is no reason for me to want to tweak it, but I was curious on what people were trying.

  5. #5

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    Quote Originally Posted by iskandam View Post
    When you say plugging the power port were you referring to the two small ports between the midrange drivers and the tweeter or the big power port at the bottom of the speaker? I'd like to try this tweak as well
    The big one at the bottom. (effectively making it a sealed speaker.)
    Mains.............Polk LSi15 (Cherry)
    Center............Polk LSiC (Crossover upgraded)
    Surrounds.......Polk LSi7 (Gloss Black - wood sides removed and crossovers upgraded)
    Subwoofers.....SVS 25-31 CS+ and PC+ (both 20hz tune)
    Pre\Pro...........NAD T163 (Modded with LM4562 opamps)
    Amplifier.........Cinepro 3k6 (6-channel, 500wpc@4ohms)

  6. #6

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    Quote Originally Posted by McLoki View Post
    The big one at the bottom. (effectively making it a sealed speaker.)
    Could this damage the speaker in any way? Will it void the warranty.
    Sony KDL-52XBR4
    Onkyo Pro PR-SC885P
    NAD T975
    LSIi15's front
    LSIiC center
    LSIiFX's surround
    LSIi15's rear
    PSW1000
    Sony BDPS2000ES
    2nd system
    Sony STRDA5300ES
    Sony PS3
    LSi9's front
    Klipsch sub
    under construction

  7. #7

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    No it would actually dampen the speaker a little better. The stock caps in any major brand speakers can be upgraded. The LSI's are great speakers, but they are still fairly generic caps none the less. I feel this will be more apparent as the years pass. I would suggest replacing them with Sonicaps if you really wanted to mod them.
    Ben
    Please. Please contact me a ben62670 @ yahoo.com. Make sure to include who you are, and you are from Polk so I don't delete your email. Also I am now physically unable to work on any projects. If you need help let these guys know. There are many people who will help if you let them know where you are.
    Thanks
    Ben

  8. #8

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    What are caps and what do they do? What rewards do you get in upgrading them and how much does it typically cost? Sorry for all of the questions, I appreciate your replies.

  9. #9

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    Quote Originally Posted by McLoki View Post
    [*]Check into room acoustics (perhaps adding acoustic panels)
    This really cannot be emphasized enough. I have gone through this, and now the sound is really great, versus just great.

    After upgrading the amp, and adding acoustic foam to the walls I really noticed a big difference in sound improvement. However, after a while I realized that something was still not quite right. Then one night I was playing a new SACD of “Symphonie Fantastique”, which has much more low frequency energy than other versions, and I realized the top part of my TV was vibrating. In fact, at certain freqs and sound levels it was clearly audible.

    This created a delima since the TV is a 57” Hitachi digital monitor, and the top part is essentially a 57” hollow plastic drum. The question was, how to reinforce the top part and stop the vibrations without ruining the TV. The solution was to get adjustable length shower rods and run them between the top of the TV and the ceiling, and between the sides of the TV and the opposite wall. After placing the rods, tighten them and this reinforced the TV to stop the vibrations. To be safe I also put a 2’ x 2’ acoustic tile on each side of the TV, and it is held in place by the rod.

    Well, it might not look the best, but it works great. Music is now so clear, detailed, and precise it should be illegal.

  10. #10

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    Got a picture of that?
    'Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a turd by the clean end."

  11. #11

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    Yeah, no kidding... We need pics of that!

  12. #12

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    Quote Originally Posted by MikeC78 View Post
    Yeah, no kidding... We need pics of that!
    I'm recharging the useless rechargables for the camera. Everytime I need the camera, the batteries are dead.

  13. #13

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    Mine are modified.

  14. #14

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    Please hurry.

  15. #15

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    Bluefox,


    I'll give you points for creativity in wiping out a room vibration....that said.....I GOTTA see that picture :D

    and why do I have the sneaky suspiscion you arent married? thats not to say you might not have the most understanding wife on god's green earth either..LOL

    busting aside, if it works.......can't argue with results
    Theater - Polk LSi15, LSiC, LSi9 speaks, DIY Sub (142.5L box, SVS plus driver, 500 Watt plate amp)...Outlaw 990 pre/pro, Carver TFM45, 2 X Outlaw M200 . Rotel RB980 . PS3, Monster 3600 power center

    2 Channel -
    Anthem Pre 2l, Jolida JD100 CD player, CAL Sigma DAC, Carver m4.0, Polk LSi9 w external modified Crossovers (thanks Trey!)

  16. #16

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    If someone were to upgrade the woofer to a DB series? They would use the single voice coil model, correct? Which would work better, the old or new DB series?

  17. #17

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    Quote Originally Posted by TRINADS View Post
    What are caps and what do they do? What rewards do you get in upgrading them and how much does it typically cost? Sorry for all of the questions, I appreciate your replies.
    They are part of the crossover(capacitors). They are generic made in mexico pieces.
    Ben
    Please. Please contact me a ben62670 @ yahoo.com. Make sure to include who you are, and you are from Polk so I don't delete your email. Also I am now physically unable to work on any projects. If you need help let these guys know. There are many people who will help if you let them know where you are.
    Thanks
    Ben

  18. #18

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    caps can really vary in price. The LSi15 uses a 18-uf and a 12-uf cap in the HF circuit. A generic brand would set you back maybe 20 bucks... Daytons would be about $50 a set, Solens about $60, Sonicaps $88, Jantzen Superiors about $250 and Jantzens Silvers about $400...

    general consensus is that Solens and Daytons are not recommended as they sound harsh. Sonicaps are generally the most recommended replacments because of their price performance ratio.

    I just upgraded my Polk Model 10s from stock to the basic (cheap)Jantzens and they some improvement but after i upgraded to the Sonicaps, the differences were magnified. The Sonicaps made a BIG difference and I can easily recommend that as the route to go. I am looking at upgrading the LSi15s myself but the crossovers have some limitations; small PCB (note as a general rule, the more expensive the cap the bigger it gets), small area to work in and they are not easily accessible.

  19. #19

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    Quote Originally Posted by BlueFox View Post
    I'm recharging the useless rechargables for the camera. Everytime I need the camera, the batteries are dead.
    Where are those pictures? Would towels draped over the horizontal rods act as dampening acoustic panels? What if they were damp towels? Would the damp towels dampen as well as un-damp towels?

    You are in a position to answer these questions which the audio gods have pondered for thousands of years. (ok, ok, these bull**** questions which I typed out of boredom.)

  20. #20

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    Okay. Here you go for your mocking and sarcastic approval. :)
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version

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  21. #21

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    OMG that is ****ing SWEET. Wrap those babies up in some thick gunmetal split-loom and invite people over for assimilation.

    Seriously though: Good idea. Great idea if it works. This is the definition to "thinking outside the box (or in this case, the TV)"

    edit: Did you try something like adhering long hardened steel strips to the plastic that was vibrating?
    Last edited by BeRad; 07-15-2008 at 07:56 PM.

  22. #22

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    Interesting.

    How about removing the bezel and filling it with foam material and/or using double sided 3M tape to secure it better?
    'Political Correctness'.........defined

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  23. #23

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    BlueFox - that is priceless.

    The only thing that would add true greatness to that is having Ben62670 make you a pair of SDA speakers and 7' sonosub.... :D :D

    Rock on.
    Mains.............Polk LSi15 (Cherry)
    Center............Polk LSiC (Crossover upgraded)
    Surrounds.......Polk LSi7 (Gloss Black - wood sides removed and crossovers upgraded)
    Subwoofers.....SVS 25-31 CS+ and PC+ (both 20hz tune)
    Pre\Pro...........NAD T163 (Modded with LM4562 opamps)
    Amplifier.........Cinepro 3k6 (6-channel, 500wpc@4ohms)

  24. #24

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    Quote Originally Posted by McLoki View Post
    BlueFox - that is priceless.

    The only thing that would add true greatness to that is having Ben62670 make you a pair of SDA speakers and 7' sonosub.... :D :D

    Rock on.
    The SDA's are 7'2" The sonosub is only 5' tall now, but I feel it may have a slight growth spurt;)
    Please. Please contact me a ben62670 @ yahoo.com. Make sure to include who you are, and you are from Polk so I don't delete your email. Also I am now physically unable to work on any projects. If you need help let these guys know. There are many people who will help if you let them know where you are.
    Thanks
    Ben

  25. #25

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    I think this would be the perfect place for some Dynamat/damping of some sort. Just make sure you leave vented cooling slots clear. The key is to reduce the resonant frequency of the panel.

  26. #26

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    Quote Originally Posted by Face View Post
    If someone were to upgrade the woofer to a DB series? They would use the single voice coil model, correct? Which would work better, the old or new DB series?
    That someone would be me. I wouldn't mind trying it.

  27. #27

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    It was the old DB series that I was talking to RussMan about. (have not contacted him about the new series)

    Also - you would want the single voice coil model as the speaker is set up to be 4 ohms. If you ran a dual voice coil, you would only connect to one of them.

    If you change the ohm of the speaker (hooking both voice coils up and making the woofer a 2 ohm or 8 ohm speaker) it could change the crossover setting or slope away from what was intended. That is what I was told (or at least how I understood it).

    I was going to ask at PolkFest about the using the new DB series in the LSi15's. I will let everyone know what they end up telling me. (Hey, they wouldn't have engineers walking around on the day of PolkFest if we weren't supposed to ask questions would they???) :)

    Michael
    Mains.............Polk LSi15 (Cherry)
    Center............Polk LSiC (Crossover upgraded)
    Surrounds.......Polk LSi7 (Gloss Black - wood sides removed and crossovers upgraded)
    Subwoofers.....SVS 25-31 CS+ and PC+ (both 20hz tune)
    Pre\Pro...........NAD T163 (Modded with LM4562 opamps)
    Amplifier.........Cinepro 3k6 (6-channel, 500wpc@4ohms)

  28. #28

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    Thanks Michael,

    face and I just may try it on my 15's prior to Polkfest so I'll share my findings. I don't know the difference between the old and new Db series or if you can even buy the old series anymore. I'll have to ask one of the 12V guys.

    Kelley

  29. #29

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    Thanks for the information. Ok, the general consensus is that Caps will help the sound quite a bit, what kind of sound improvement did you get, or would i expect?
    I'm also very curious on the sub exchange, I would love to hear how that turns out!

  30. #30

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    The LSi15s are not friendly to cap upgrades... the crossover board componensts are between the board and the binding plates with only 1.5" space in between.

    To complicate matters, the opening for the binding plate is quite small and the internal wiring for the speakers are cut to specific lengths. They are so short, you cannot extract the crossover thru the binding plate cutout.

    If you want to replace the crossover caps, you literally have to remove the woofer and work thru there. Then you have the problem of the clearance between the side-firing woofer and the crossover to consider since the cabinet is extremely narrow.

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