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  1. #1

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    Default Oil pressure light on after oil change

    I changed my oil today in my 2.7L Hyundai Santa Fe and my oil indicator came on immediately afterwards. I have not driven the car - the engine was on for just about 2 minutes following the oil change. I used a genuine Hyundai oil filter and Mobil 1. What could be wrong? I''m thinking I might have overfilled it as the dipstick is wet way above the indicator. Could overfilling cause a problem? Advice?

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    Quote Originally Posted by anonymouse View Post
    I changed my oil today in my 2.7L Hyundai Santa Fe and my oil indicator came on immediately afterwards. I have not driven the car - the engine was on for just about 2 minutes following the oil change. I used a genuine Hyundai oil filter and Mobil 1. What could be wrong? I''m thinking I might have overfilled it as the dipstick is wet way above the indicator. Could overfilling cause a problem? Advice?
    Yes! Overfilling can cause problems just as underfilling.
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    I'm presuming that draining a little oil by loosening the oil filer should help?

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    If its overfull you may need to open the drain plug and get
    a hand full of oil trying to thread it back in. First check for
    a leak at the filter.
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    How many quarts did ya put in it?
    Don't drive it over full not good for it.
    Probably smoke like hell.

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    But overfilling as stated not good if way over like more then a quart or so. I don't see why this should cause the oil pressure light to stay on. Was the correct oil filter used? Is there oil leaking under engine, a bad leak?

    Mobil one being a bit thin is know to cause trouble with oil pressure at idle, check with some oil forums to see. Does the engine sound bad knocking or anything during the 2 Min's of running? If not I'm wonder if bringing up idle clears the oil light? If so Mobil One is a bit thin for that engine, so if you like a synthetic oil and I assume you put 0W-30 oil in I would drain a quart low to add a thicker oil to mix. A 20W-40 may work if this is true.

    For the record I would drive a car with the oil light on at idle without doing something above. Good luck.

    BTW is this you first time you change your oil? Is this the first time you changed with Mobil One? Did you change the Oil weight? Are you using a different brand of oil filter? What caused you to overfill?

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    Overfilling causes the crankshaft to splash extra oil up onto the cylinder walls, overloading the rings thus glazing the cylider walls creating a loss of compression = BAD... the cure, don't overfill.
    Are you sure it was 2 min. before the light went off? Sometimes it takes 20-30 seconds for the oil light to go off. Like Disneyjoe says, a lot of facts are missing... how many miles are on the motor? What weight of oil used? Is the filter leaking? In order to drain some oil, I wouldn't take the oil filter off unless it's leaking. Loosen the plug, man are you gonna get slicked up!
    Thanks, Jeff...

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    For the record I wouldn't drive a car with the oil light on at idle without doing something above. Good luck.


    To correct what I was thinking above, sorry I wasn't clear before.




    Quote Originally Posted by disneyjoe7 View Post
    For the record I would drive a car with the oil light on at idle without doing something above. Good luck.

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    Another thing, the dipstick... to correctly read the oil level you must first shut off the engine, pull the dipstick out and wipe clean with a rag or something the Ex bought you. Then reinsert the dipstick fully, pull back out and read. In between full or add is fine... a little above full, maybe ok... a lot above full, RED FLAG! If there is no oil on the dipstick, get out your checkbook, you are gonna need it.
    Thanks, Jeff...

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    Quote Originally Posted by Jeff Beaird View Post
    Another thing, If there is no oil on the dipstick, get out your checkbook, you are gonna need it.

    LOL :D:D:D

    Is that a DIY major F&*$ up ;)

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  11. #11

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    One guy at work a good while back attempted ( Yes I say attempted :) ) to change his own oil on his Honda Nighthawk S motorcycle. He figured they took 5 quarts just like his car

    When oil started pouring out before he got the 5 full quarts in he didnt know why ? He started it ...it ran for a few seconds then major blue smoke out of the pipes and then died. Wouldnt re-start.

    I went over to look at it....the crankcase breather had sucked pure liquid oil into the airbox.....I had to remove the airbox to clean it...replace the air filter...and drain the CV carb float bowls. And before starting it again remove a couple quarts from the crankcase so the oil was where it should have been.

    I told him to take it to the dealer for oil changes like he does with his cars....he said he just wanted to be able to tell me that he changed his own bikes oil...I told him don't try and impress me anymore
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    The problem I had recently was due to underfilling. My Passat takes about 6 quarts to fill up. In the past, I've always bought 1 5quart container and 1-single quart container and its worked fine.

    Last time I bought from Advanced Autoparts, I grabbed the same containers I always do. Drained, changed the filter, etc. Put in the entire 5 q container plus the extra one. Start up, turn off, check dipstick. Its very low, not even in range. What? So I add some more from another container. Still low. I put almost another half quart and still low. About this time I'm confused. I go and check the container. Its a 1 gallon (4 q) container instead of a 5 quart container! Effing companies trying to pull the fast one by downsizing containers and keeping the price the same! BTW, last time I was in WalMart, they still carried the 5 quart containers and the price was still lower than the 4 quart container from Advanced. I know where I'm buying my oil change stuff from in the future.
    So, just beware of whether you are using a 4 quart or 5 quart container (if you buy those like I do)

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    Any update Anonymouse?

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    Quote Originally Posted by billbillw View Post
    The problem I had recently was due to underfilling. My Passat takes about 6 quarts to fill up. In the past, I've always bought 1 5quart container and 1-single quart container and its worked fine.

    Last time I bought from Advanced Autoparts, I grabbed the same containers I always do. Drained, changed the filter, etc. Put in the entire 5 q container plus the extra one. Start up, turn off, check dipstick. Its very low, not even in range. What? So I add some more from another container. Still low. I put almost another half quart and still low. About this time I'm confused. I go and check the container. Its a 1 gallon (4 q) container instead of a 5 quart container! Effing companies trying to pull the fast one by downsizing containers and keeping the price the same! BTW, last time I was in WalMart, they still carried the 5 quart containers and the price was still lower than the 4 quart container from Advanced. I know where I'm buying my oil change stuff from in the future.
    So, just beware of whether you are using a 4 quart or 5 quart container (if you buy those like I do)
    Dude I had a Passat.
    Don't use Dino oil at all. Mine failed, and cost over $1500 to replace the pickup tube after running dino oil in it:(
    Please. Please contact me a ben62670 @ yahoo.com. Make sure to include who you are, and you are from Polk so I don't delete your email. Also I am now physically unable to work on any projects. If you need help let these guys know. There are many people who will help if you let them know where you are.
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    Quote Originally Posted by ben62670 View Post
    Dude I had a Passat.
    Don't use Dino oil at all. Mine failed, and cost over $1500 to replace the pickup tube after running dino oil in it:(
    ? You talking about non-synthetic oil?
    I've been using the same oil for the last 122,000 miles with no problem. Castrol GTX. Kinda late to switch to synthetic now.

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    Quote Originally Posted by billbillw View Post
    Kinda late to switch to synthetic now.
    It's NEVER too late to switch to synthetic oils... just don't try to "break in" a new motor on synthetics. Not recommended!
    Thanks, Jeff...

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    Quote Originally Posted by Jeff Beaird View Post
    It's NEVER too late to switch to synthetic oils... just don't try to "break in" a new motor on synthetics. Not recommended!
    Huh?

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    all come factory filled with Mobil 1 Synthetic as the motor oil in the crankcase.
    Last edited by XJRGUY; 10-03-2008 at 01:05 AM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by XJRGUY View Post
    Huh?

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    Other cars listed here ---> http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/...rs_Choice.aspx

    all come factory filled with Mobil 1 Synthetic as the motor oil in the crankcase.
    Some friction is necessary during the initial break-in period for a new engine so the moving parts can mate and the rings seat properly in the cylinders. Many of the synthetics are too "slick" to allow this mating to happen. So if you rebuild an engine (or just install new lifters, cam, etc.) it's best to break in the new engine/parts with regular oil and after a couple oil changes, move to synthetic.
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    Quote Originally Posted by tugboat View Post
    Some friction is necessary during the initial break-in period for a new engine so the moving parts can mate and the rings seat properly in the cylinders. Many of the synthetics are too "slick" to allow this mating to happen. So if you rebuild an engine (or just install new lifters, cam, etc.) it's best to break in the new engine/parts with regular oil and after a couple oil changes, move to synthetic.
    Maybe with older technology, but with current engine design this is no longer the case.

    Mobil agrees http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/...ics/Myths.aspx

    Castrol agrees http://www.castrol.com/castrol/gener...tentId=7007980

    Royal Purple agrees http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles...tic_myths.html

    Now, I can agree with one reason NOT to use synthetic oil during a break in is that with the frequency of changes you will be wasting money changing the syn. oil out during a new engine break in period.

    Other than that, syn oil is fine during break in, according to facts and tests by OEM's, the oil companies and engine builders.

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    I sure that an engine came with Synthetic oil from a factory, comes with a break oil mix also.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Jeff Beaird View Post
    It's NEVER too late to switch to synthetic oils... just don't try to "break in" a new motor on synthetics. Not recommended!
    Huh! Many manufacturer's including all European cars now use Synthetic oil right out of the factory. This nothing but one of those internet myths that keeps getting passed on and on and on.
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    Quote Originally Posted by disneyjoe7 View Post
    I sure that an engine came with Synthetic oil from a factory, comes with a break oil mix also.




    Unless you have a credible source/citation claiming that syn. factory fill is mixed with break-in oil I would probably disagree.

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    Quote Originally Posted by XJRGUY View Post
    Unless you have a credible source/citation claiming that syn. factory fill is mixed with break-in oil I would probably disagree.
    Don't believe everything you read. ;)

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  24. #24

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    Quote Originally Posted by disneyjoe7 View Post
    Don't believe everything you read. ;)
    This is true, but facts from credible sources are better than anecdotes....

    :D

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    Quote Originally Posted by tugboat View Post
    Some friction is necessary during the initial break-in period for a new engine so the moving parts can mate and the rings seat properly in the cylinders. Many of the synthetics are too "slick" to allow this mating to happen. So if you rebuild an engine (or just install new lifters, cam, etc.) it's best to break in the new engine/parts with regular oil and after a couple oil changes, move to synthetic.
    +1 Thanks tugboat...

    On a new motor I change oil and filter at 50 mi. then again at 500 mi. After that every 3,000 mi.
    Last edited by Jeff Beaird; 10-03-2008 at 04:18 PM. Reason: thanks added
    Thanks, Jeff...

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    Quote Originally Posted by Jeff Beaird View Post
    +1 Thanks tugboat...

    On a new motor I change oil and filter at 50 mi. then again at 500 mi. After that every 3,000 mi.
    No European cars are designed for an oil change every 3,000 mi, even after break in. Usually more like 10,000 or more, and not always with synthetic oil either (for the four cylinder models). I think this is mostly because they use better filters, but I am no expert. All I do know is that even the dealers will not push for more frequent changes in Europe.

    It is also common for engines to be broken in "on the bench" before delivery. XJRGUY may be correct in assuming these engines can use synthetic oil normally during break in, as witnessed by a fellow Polkie's new Jetta, which requires its first oil change at 10,000 miles, not before. It's a different approach. Europeans are paranoid about dealer visits (the fewer the better), and there is no popular alternative like Jiffy Lube etc. Maybe that explains it to some extent. Mythology may be filling in the blanks.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Kex View Post
    No European cars are designed for an oil change every 3,000 mi, even after break in. Usually more like 10,000 or more, and not always with synthetic oil either (for the four cylinder models). I think this is mostly because they use better filters, but I am no expert. All I do know is that even the dealers will not push for more frequent changes in Europe.

    It is also common for engines to be broken in "on the bench" before delivery. XJRGUY may be correct in assuming these engines can use synthetic oil normally during break in, as witnessed by a fellow Polkie's new Jetta, which requires its first oil change at 10,000 miles, not before. It's a different approach. Europeans are paranoid about dealer visits (the fewer the better), and there is no popular alternative like Jiffy Lube etc. Maybe that explains it to some extent. Mythology may be filling in the blanks.

    If you are saying oil filters in europe are better..? Which means they catch more particles of carbon, dirt, aluminum, steel, etc. wouldn't they clog sooner meaning you should change them sooner? I think you got it backwards, filters in Europe are worse

    Paranoid or not, an oil change after the first 10,000 mi. AND the motor has a 30,000 mi. warranty... UUMMMmmmmmm....??? Do you see something wrong there?
    No argument PLEASE! Just my two cents...
    Thanks, Jeff...

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    Quote Originally Posted by heiney9 View Post
    Huh! Many manufacturer's including all European cars now use Synthetic oil right out of the factory. This nothing but one of those internet myths that keeps getting passed on and on and on.
    Not true. You think they come directly from the factory with the oil used to break in the engine? Try again.

    The oil used to break in the engine before you purchase it is drained because it contains necessary additives for the break-in process and any metal particles from the break-in. It is then replaced with standard synthetic oil.

    Of course what do I know. I've only built a few engines in my days and have experience with synthetics in all areas (engine, tranny, PS...). Or maybe my brother (Chrysler Master Mechanic) was told incorrectly by Chrysler about the use of synthetics in rebuilds, etc.

    One of the leading manufactures of synthetic racing oil (Redline) was around long before the major brands and they always stated that the engine break-in was not to be done with synthetics. But of course, they must have started the internet rumor (well before the internet was in use by non-military).
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jeff Beaird View Post
    +1 Thanks tugboat...

    On a new motor I change oil and filter at 50 mi. then again at 500 mi. After that every 3,000 mi.
    I knew a guy that tried to break in his newly built stroker with Redline 30w and the rings didn't seat. He had to drain the synth and add standard oil and after about 2hrs, the rings were properly seated. I told him he was stupid for trying anyway. The cost of synth from Redline is about 8 bucks a quart and he'd need to toss two crank cases full of the stuff before he could leave it in knowing all the crap from break-in was gone.

    In my old Trans-Am I built a bored ands stroked 350 and ran Redline 30w. I changed the filter and added a quart every 5000 miles and total oil change every 15000. The engine had over 45K on it when I sold it and she still cranked out over 400hp.
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    Quote Originally Posted by XJRGUY View Post
    Maybe with older technology, but with current engine design this is no longer the case.

    Mobil agrees http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/...ics/Myths.aspx

    Castrol agrees http://www.castrol.com/castrol/gener...tentId=7007980

    Royal Purple agrees http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles...tic_myths.html

    Now, I can agree with one reason NOT to use synthetic oil during a break in is that with the frequency of changes you will be wasting money changing the syn. oil out during a new engine break in period.

    Other than that, syn oil is fine during break in, according to facts and tests by OEM's, the oil companies and engine builders.
    I can't say for fact on all those cars listed, but the oil you get when you buy the car is not the oil used to break-in the engine. There isn't an engine out there that is just slapped together, dropped into the car and put on the lot never having been properly tested and broken in. That is done where the engine is made and the oil used during the break-in is discarded after the process is over. So of course in those cars you can use synth for YOUR first oil change (note this is not the ENGINE's first oil change).

    I dare anyone here to build an engine and run synth for the first fire-up and break-in. Then post your results about ring seating and crank bearings.
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