narrowed down my amp choices........

**IrishChamp** · 10-27-2008 10:28 PM

Just thought I would get some input, I've narrowed my amp choices down to two options for my SR6500's and single SR124DVC.
1. Audison LRx 5.1: Run Bi-amped 50x2 for tweeters, 160x2 for mid range and 1150x1 for the sub.
2. Arc SE 4200 and Arc KAR 900.1D: Run Bi-amped 110x2 for tweeters, 110x2 for mids and 750x1 for Sub

It seems to me that option one would provide better quality sound for the subwoofer and option two would provide superior quality sound from mids and highs, this is based on the opinions I've read about these 3 amps but I'd love to hear opinions from other SR component and sub owners on how these amps would match up with my speaker choices.
Now, also of importance is the price, option one would be a slightly less expensive and less complicated installation, option two would require more space, wire, etc.

thanks in advance!

**MacLeod** · 10-27-2008 11:42 PM

Id go with option 2. That gives plenty of power to each driver.

**IrishChamp** · 10-28-2008 12:39 AM

so are you saying that the tweeters need more than 50 watts, because option 1 provides more power to the midrange drivers and the subwoofer.
thanks

Originally Posted by MacLeod

Id go with option 2. That gives plenty of power to each driver.

**MacLeod** · 10-28-2008 06:24 PM

Ive found its just easier to tune them if the mids and tweets are getting the same power. The difference between 110 watts and 160 is only .5 db so youre not gaining a whole lot.

**IrishChamp** · 10-28-2008 10:26 PM

ah, I see, thanks! so If I only had 50 to the tweeters would they not produce enough sound or just cause difficulties tuning?

Originally Posted by MacLeod

Ive found its just easier to tune them if the mids and tweets are getting the same power. The difference between 110 watts and 160 is only .5 db so youre not gaining a whole lot.

**MacLeod** · 10-28-2008 11:06 PM

50 watts will work. Either of those amps will work. Its just a little easier to tune when the mids and tweets start off at the same level. And one amp is double the power over the other for tweeters while only half the power extra for mids.

Bottom line - flip a coin. Both amps will work.

**IrishChamp** · 10-29-2008 02:35 AM

ok, after all the fuss I went and bought a POLK AUDIO PA500.4, I was not getting anywhere on the other amps, things were just taking too long. Plus with the live.com disocunt I got a GREAT deal!

SO.

now another question. I need to start acumulating some good quality and affordable sound deadening and a dual amp kit. my battery is about 1ft from where I will be installing my amp so I thought I might want to just buy the necessary pieces for the amp kit and a few feet of wire by the ft. However, I don't really know exactly what pieces I need or where to get them.

I also need a source to buy the stuff to make a fiberglass sub box.

**eloplayspolo** · 10-29-2008 03:40 PM

**eloplayspolo** · 10-29-2008 03:46 PM

your also prob going to want some zip ties and a few other things to keep your install neat. Those power wires are a bitch to strip make sure u have a good sharp tool to cut them.... i ended up using a steak knife :(.

A lot of people recomend other stuff to deaden with because its cheaper.... but to me if u can find it for this cheap..... might as well get the best.
http://cgi.ebay.com/DYNAMAT-XTREME-B...d=p3286.c0.m14

you will find that guy selling those all the time.

**IrishChamp** · 10-29-2008 03:57 PM

wow, that really helps, links and everything! :)
Thanks!

**MacLeod** · 10-29-2008 10:06 PM

Originally Posted by IrishChamp

ok, after all the fuss I went and bought a POLK AUDIO PA500.4

Good choice. Thats the same amp Im using to bi-amp my SR6500's and its working pretty damn well for me.

**IrishChamp** · 10-30-2008 03:03 AM

Yea I saw that! :D
plus I figured I got some beautiful polk speakers, a pulk amp should be a good fit!
Are you bi-amping them or running active?
also, are you using an EQ, I think I read some where that you ran them for a long time without an eq but recently started using one?
I'm keeping my stock head unit and a pac audio add an amp. I was going to get a RF 3sixty.2 or a JL audio Cleansweep but have read that they both have problems. I'm kind of worried I will not be able to get their full potential out of them without an eq.

Originally Posted by MacLeod

Good choice. Thats the same amp Im using to bi-amp my SR6500's and its working pretty damn well for me.

**IrishChamp** · 10-30-2008 04:55 PM

EDIT: I see from your previous post your running Bi'amped, not active.

Originally Posted by IrishChamp

Yea I saw that! :D
plus I figured I got some beautiful polk speakers, a pulk amp should be a good fit!
Are you bi-amping them or running active?
also, are you using an EQ, I think I read some where that you ran them for a long time without an eq but recently started using one?
I'm keeping my stock head unit and a pac audio add an amp. I was going to get a RF 3sixty.2 or a JL audio Cleansweep but have read that they both have problems. I'm kind of worried I will not be able to get their full potential out of them without an eq.

**MacLeod** · 10-30-2008 10:29 PM

Yeah, Im using an Alpine H700 processor/EQ. Before I got that I was using the 5 band parametric EQ off my Alpine 9855 head unit.

**IrishChamp** · 10-30-2008 11:09 PM

Yea, I hope I'm not dissapointed not having any eq, I guess I will eventually pick one up.

Originally Posted by MacLeod

Yeah, Im using an Alpine H700 processor/EQ. Before I got that I was using the 5 band parametric EQ off my Alpine 9855 head unit.

**eloplayspolo** · 10-31-2008 04:01 AM

what kind of car are u putting this all in again?

**IrishChamp** · 10-31-2008 01:18 PM

chrysler 300c srt8.

Originally Posted by eloplayspolo

what kind of car are u putting this all in again?

**IrishChamp** · 10-31-2008 03:57 PM

if anyone could look at my wiring diagram and see if I'm missing anything I would greatly appreciate it!

**rdb2001** · 10-31-2008 04:07 PM

Are you using a 2nd battery or upgrading your alternator. You have a nice size sub amp as well as front stage amp. I think you might need some extra juice to keep both running at optimum voltage. Just a suggestion.

**IrishChamp** · 10-31-2008 04:13 PM

I'm not sure yet, I have a 160 amp alternator stock. I figured if I get flickering lights in my car I would first upgrade all my cars battery and alternator wiring, I think its referred to as "The Big 3"? then if needed I will upgrade the battery. what do you think?

Originally Posted by rdb2001

Are you using a 2nd battery or upgrading your alternator. You have a nice size sub amp as well as front stage amp. I think you might need some extra juice to keep both running at optimum voltage. Just a suggestion.

**rdb2001** · 10-31-2008 04:27 PM

Most enthusiast would say upgrade alternator first then the rest. If your alternator cant keep up with the load then you are doomed anyways. My truck has a 160 amp alternator and I am using 2 kinectic batteries in the back and a yellowtop up front. I havent had any problems so far and I get my alternater tested regularly. I would say at the first sign of dimming that would be something I would do. Just my opinion. Your voltage mean alot, your amps are most time rated at 14.4v and drop off in power if getting less than that so thats something i would make sure your amps are getting.

**IrishChamp** · 10-31-2008 04:35 PM

quick question, does the speaker wire you linked provide positive and negative wires wound together in each piece or do I need a piece for each?
If it has both wrapped together I need 60 ft, if not I need 120! OUCH, 60 is bad enough!

Originally Posted by eloplayspolo

**IrishChamp** · 10-31-2008 04:44 PM

Hm, hopefully I don't have to replace it any time soon, I've not heard much about people having to replace them in this model car so I am hopeful. I do have some extra electronics already, electric auxiliary oil pump for a turbo system, methanol injection kit, and a few gauges. I do know that my car stock can have rear seat dvd, 368 watt amp, 400 watt mopar/kicker upgrade sub amp (100 to 200 from the factory).
we shall see!
thanks again

EDIT: my car shows 13.6 to 14.1 volts on the dash while running. 12.4 to 12.6 while turned off.

Originally Posted by rdb2001

Most enthusiast would say upgrade alternator first then the rest. If your alternator cant keep up with the load then you are doomed anyways. My truck has a 160 amp alternator and I am using 2 kinectic batteries in the back and a yellowtop up front. I havent had any problems so far and I get my alternater tested regularly. I would say at the first sign of dimming that would be something I would do. Just my opinion. Your voltage mean alot, your amps are most time rated at 14.4v and drop off in power if getting less than that so thats something i would make sure your amps are getting.

**IrishChamp** · 10-31-2008 05:03 PM

another thing.
Do you think one 4 channel RCA would work, do they split and provide enough length to go to two different amps? Or do I need two 2 chanel RCA's? one for L and R channels for the front stage and the other for the sub? do I even need a 2 channel RCA for the sub amp, is there such thing as a mono cable?
I also need a remote wire, or do I need 2, one for each amp?

Originally Posted by eloplayspolo

**eloplayspolo** · 10-31-2008 05:32 PM

i would go with 2 sets of rcas, 1 for each amp.
the speaker wire is wound 1 positive and 1 negative on that. u just need 60 then.....
BIG ADVISE! u alllllllllways need more than u think, especialy if ur going to biamp.
and also in the picture u have ur grounds in the same spot.... use 2 diffrent locations.

**rdb2001** · 10-31-2008 05:55 PM

I personally used different remote wire for my sub amp than my inside speakers amps. I use a switch on the remote wire thats lets me turn the sub amp on and off. I can use that feature with hy HU but I dont like navigating through the menu to get to that. It comes in handy when the cops are around, lol. But u can run two or run one and then splice it into two in the back to run to each amp. If you want to put an on/off switch you would need to run two.

**IrishChamp** · 10-31-2008 06:10 PM

Cool, thanks!
how about battery terminals? do I need them or do I just attach to the OEM terminal with the ring terminals?
I also just remembered that I have an old 1.5 farad cap, generic brand with a volt meter. think I should bother using it, I hear they are pretty pointless.
thanks again!

Originally Posted by eloplayspolo

i would go with 2 sets of rcas, 1 for each amp.
the speaker wire is wound 1 positive and 1 negative on that. u just need 60 then.....
BIG ADVISE! u alllllllllways need more than u think, especialy if ur going to biamp.
and also in the picture u have ur grounds in the same spot.... use 2 diffrent locations.

**IrishChamp** · 10-31-2008 06:11 PM

Can I use any wire? I don't see them on knukonceptz.com?
thanks!

Originally Posted by rdb2001

I personally used different remote wire for my sub amp than my inside speakers amps. I use a switch on the remote wire thats lets me turn the sub amp on and off. I can use that feature with hy HU but I dont like navigating through the menu to get to that. It comes in handy when the cops are around, lol. But u can run two or run one and then splice it into two in the back to run to each amp. If you want to put an on/off switch you would need to run two.

**rdb2001** · 10-31-2008 06:22 PM

Are you buying an amp kit or are you buying everything seperate?

**IrishChamp** · 10-31-2008 06:44 PM

I was planning on buying everything seperate simply because my battery is in my trunk and I don't need 15+ft of power cable. a kit might be cost effective though, I'm not really sure. also, none of the brands I've looked at have dual 1/0 gauge amp kits.

Originally Posted by rdb2001

Are you buying an amp kit or are you buying everything seperate?

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