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  1. #121

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    Quick hijack.....I just pulled the pr's from my 2.3tls. I want to get rid of the polyswitches and use jumpers. I do not see enough room to do so, as the legs on the mustard colored polys are not long enough and are very close to the board. Tight quarters, next to harness and a cap too. Do I have to remove the x-over and do it from the backside of the crossover?

  2. #122

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    Quote Originally Posted by jmitchnh View Post
    Since it's in paralell I am assuming I do not need to jumper it?
    This is the question I answered. Once again, the correct answer is yes the polyswitch does need a jumper for proper operation of the tweeter. I see nothing about completing a circuit in that question.
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  3. #123

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    Quote Originally Posted by TennMan View Post
    This is the question I answered. Once again, the correct answer is yes the polyswitch does need a jumper for proper operation of the tweeter. I see nothing about completing a circuit in that question.
    If it's in parallel to the cap then if you remove just the poly, the cap still completes the circuit, why add a hunk of wire to the cap? Now that's simply in practice as there is more going on here than simply removing the poly since the cap and poly work together for the protection circuit.

    If I am wrong about how parallel and series circuits are configured please explain.

    H9
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  4. #124

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    Quote Originally Posted by TennMan View Post
    Once again, the correct answer is yes the polyswitch does need a jumper for proper operation of the tweeter.
    Yes,and you can remove the cap(C4)if so desired since it will have no function.
    Last edited by FTGV; 01-07-2012 at 01:12 PM.

  5. #125

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    Quote Originally Posted by heiney9 View Post
    DK,

    So the cap is part of the protection and not part of the contour circuit?
    Yes, as specified in the schematic notes.

    Quote Originally Posted by heiney9 View Post
    Seems like a large hole in the contour would exist if you just take it out, since it's obviously in the signal path.
    If that were true, then the previous model Monitor 12 would have a large hole in the contour since it has the identical HF circuit minus the polyswitch and 4.2 uF cap.

    Quote Originally Posted by FTGV View Post
    It appears in normal operation the polyswitch shorts the 4.2 uf cap( taking it out of the circuit).If the levels are high enough to trip (open) the poly switch then 4.2 uf becomes part of the hi pass network.This would allow the tweeter to still have some output but because C3 and C4 are now series connected( the combo resulting in just over 3 uf.) the high pass filter will be shifted to a higher frequency which would afford the tweeter more protection.
    I agree. The higher the signal's frequency, the less power there is in the signal.
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  6. #126

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    Quote Originally Posted by TennMan View Post
    I think you will have to jumper it. When closed it is part of the circuit. If you simply removed it the tweeter would stop working as it does when the polyswitch trips.
    Quote Originally Posted by TennMan View Post
    This is the question I answered. Once again, the correct answer is yes the polyswitch does need a jumper for proper operation of the tweeter. I see nothing about completing a circuit in that question.
    You answered incorrectly because you obviously assumed the polyswitch was in series with the tweeter, rather than being in a parallel combination with a capacitor. Your statement that the "tweeter would stop working as it does when the polyswitch trips" is not correct since the signal would still have a path to the tweeter through the 4.2 uF capacitor if the polyswitch were removed.
    "Polk SDA-SRSs are hopelessly out of date both sonically and technologically... I see no value whatsoever in older SDA speakers."~Audio Asylum Member
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  7. #127

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    Quote Originally Posted by DarqueKnight View Post
    If that were true, then the previous model Monitor 12 would have a large hole in the contour since it has the identical HF circuit minus the polyswitch and 4.2 uF cap.
    Correct ,however removing just the polyswitch as per H9's original suggestion would cause a large hole in the frequency response due to the high pass xover frequency being pushed much higher as a result of the series connection of C3 and C4.

  8. #128

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    Quote Originally Posted by musky1963 View Post
    Quick hijack.....I just pulled the pr's from my 2.3tls. I want to get rid of the polyswitches and use jumpers. I do not see enough room to do so, as the legs on the mustard colored polys are not long enough and are very close to the board. Tight quarters, next to harness and a cap too. Do I have to remove the x-over and do it from the backside of the crossover?
    Pretty much yes. But it's just a single hex bolt plus unclipping the harnesses to remove them. It's not a big deal.
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  9. #129

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    Quote Originally Posted by FTGV View Post
    Correct ,however removing just the polyswitch as per H9's original suggestion would cause a large hole in the frequency response due to the high pass xover frequency being pushed much higher as a result of the series connection of C3 and C4.
    So the poly has that much influence on the contour? I was always aware the poly had a very small influence on the sound. I've removed several and never heard a large hole in the frequency response.

    H9
    "Appreciation of audio is a completely subjective human experience. Measurements can provide a measure of insight, but are no substitute for human judgment. Why are we looking to reduce a subjective experience to objective criteria anyway? The subtleties of music and audio reproduction are for those who appreciate it. Differentiation by numbers is for those who do not".--Nelson Pass

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  10. #130

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    Quote Originally Posted by heiney9 View Post
    If it's in parallel to the cap then if you remove just the poly, the cap still completes the circuit, why add a hunk of wire to the cap? Now that's simply in practice as there is more going on here than simply removing the poly since the cap and poly work together for the protection circuit.

    If I am wrong about how parallel and series circuits are configured please explain.

    H9
    I think you might be looking at this parallel circuit as if the polyswitch was functioning as a resistor when it is operating normally.

    I'm not an electrical engineer but I will explain the reason for my answer.

    If the polyswitch is not tripped, and is in new condition, is should ideally function as a straight piece of wire. Since electricity takes the path of least resistance the capacitor would effectively be bypassed.

    Once the polyswitch trips due to overheating, it does provide resistance and works in parallel with the capacitor to attenuate the power going to the tweeter in order to protect it.
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  11. #131

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    Quote Originally Posted by heiney9 View Post
    So the poly has that much influence on the contour? I was always aware the poly had a very small influence on the sound. I've removed several and never heard a large hole in the frequency response.

    H9
    Normally it wouldn't but with this model as tennman also points out because it has an additional paralleled cap that only gets introduced into the circuit when the poly switch is triggered (or removed entirely).
    Last edited by FTGV; 01-07-2012 at 02:17 PM. Reason: claification

  12. #132

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    I am not and EE either and I can certainly see your logic.

    Fred and Raife are EE's so I'd certainly take anything they say more seriously.

    H9
    "Appreciation of audio is a completely subjective human experience. Measurements can provide a measure of insight, but are no substitute for human judgment. Why are we looking to reduce a subjective experience to objective criteria anyway? The subtleties of music and audio reproduction are for those who appreciate it. Differentiation by numbers is for those who do not".--Nelson Pass

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  13. #133

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    Quote Originally Posted by heiney9 View Post

    Fred ... EE .

    H9
    I wish but just a lowly ET.

  14. #134

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    Quote Originally Posted by FTGV View Post
    I wish but just a lowly ET.
    I'm not even that
    "Appreciation of audio is a completely subjective human experience. Measurements can provide a measure of insight, but are no substitute for human judgment. Why are we looking to reduce a subjective experience to objective criteria anyway? The subtleties of music and audio reproduction are for those who appreciate it. Differentiation by numbers is for those who do not".--Nelson Pass

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  15. #135

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    Quote Originally Posted by heiney9 View Post
    I am not and EE either...
    I'm not an EE either, I just stay at Holiday Inn Express a lot.
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  16. #136

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    Quote Originally Posted by DarqueKnight View Post
    ...... I just stay at Holiday Inn Express a lot.
    lol lol
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  17. #137

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    After reading numerous threads (beside this one) concerning removing polyswitches I went ahead and did the deed. I did install a solid core copper wire in it's place and the resistance of both switches registered at approx. .3 ohms. The result? Count me in is one who thinks this does make a significant improvement. The highs have more sparkle and air to them. More detail, more clarity. They sound a lot closer to the way my SDA-1Cs did and that is a very good thing. Next up, RDOs and Clarity Cap x-over rebuild.
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  18. #138

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    +1 in the believer camp!

    I need some more time listening to them (and probably more burn-in), but I'd say there is a definite hi-end clarity improvement without the Polys. I know for sure the Poly in my left speaker was junk.

    FYI - I installed .5, 12 watt Mills. I also have some .22's that I might try after a month or so, just to see if I can tell the difference. It almost takes longer to remove all the faceplate screws on the SDA-SRS plate, and warm up the soldering iron, than it does to complete the mod! (It helped having a TV snack tray that was about the exact height I needed to support the xover and plate while I worked on it though...)

    (A monster may have just been created! Spikes are next, already in hand.)
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  19. #139

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    I have a pair of 1C's that I haven't listened to much over the last year or two as they just didn't sound that good to me. I have been debating selling them since they were just taking up space. I decided yesterday to see how complicated it would be for me, who has ZERO experience with soldering and ZERO experience with electrical circuits to to remove the polyswitches just to see if I would hear something better. I popped the passive out, unbolted the crossover, identified the polyswitch and decided to go for it. I had no soldering iron so went to Radio Shack and bought the $10.00 beginner kit and made a jumper to run between the leads. The soldering work is not especially pretty but damn these speakers sound like they have a new life. I have been listening most of the afternoon and can't believe they are the same speakers. Anyone sitting on the fence because of lack of knowledge I strongly urge you to just go for it, it really is simple and takes no more than an hour start to finish.

  20. #140

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    I wish some of you guys had posted the (resistance) value of the polyswitches you removed. I just completed an XO mod on my Monitor 10's and replaced the PS's with a 0.5 Ohm resistor. The resistance value of the (removed) PS's ranged from .7 to 2.2 Ohms! Needless to say I'm thrilled with the results.
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