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  1. #31

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    Quote Originally Posted by McLoki View Post
    In the Yamaha - set sub to off and front speakers to large.

    Set your other speakers to small with the crossover at 150hz.

    Use the crossover in the sub to cross over to your front speakers. (probably around 150hz or so)
    Yeah i agree with that.... crossover in front speakers....



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  2. #32

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    If the sub is connected to the sub out jack on the receiver and the receiver crossover is used, then should the crossover on the sub be set to the full range? Another newb...

  3. #33

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    I don't want to step on toes or jack a thread but this was kinda what I asked in another post....

    I am considering this sub(PSW505) and was wondering if there is any preffered method to "hooking'' it up. I have my sub now hooked up to my receiver thru the Sub pre-out. I don't get as much bass as I used to hooking it up with speaker wire. Is this normal? I've got it set to the max(db) thru the receiver and it's still weaker than it was at half volume set up with speaker wire...my current sub(sony sw2500) isn't that great anyways...just wondering how the sub performs with just a sub pre-out connection from the receiver...thanks.

    I do have my towers set as large or actually it says "Full" I believe. Should I try small and change the crossover to what?? Newbie here too. Thanks for any and all replys.
    Last edited by Dune; 01-07-2009 at 04:41 AM.

  4. #34

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    Quote Originally Posted by Dune View Post
    I don't want to step on toes or jack a thread but this was kinda what I asked in another post....

    I am considering this sub(PSW505) and was wondering if there is any preffered method to "hooking'' it up. I have my sub now hooked up to my receiver thru the Sub pre-out. I don't get as much bass as I used to hooking it up with speaker wire. Is this normal? I've got it set to the max(db) thru the receiver and it's still weaker than it was at half volume set up with speaker wire...my current sub(sony sw2500) isn't that great anyways...just wondering how the sub performs with just a sub pre-out connection from the receiver...thanks.

    I do have my towers set as large or actually it says "Full" I believe. Should I try small and change the crossover to what?? Newbie here too. Thanks for any and all replys.
    Here's a great article that explains the whole "Small / Large" settings dead on. The biggest stumbling block is that guys with large (physical size) speakers always assume that they're full range. Not even close. http://forum.ecoustics.com/bbs/messa...79/128214.html Give it a try, I'll bet you like the results.
    "2 Channel & 11.2 HT "
    Panny 65" 3D Plasma
    Yamaha AVENTAGE RX-A3010 AVR
    D>SONIC M2-600M mono's / mains
    Rotel RMB-1095 / 5 channel amp
    Rotel RMB-1075 / 5 channel amp
    TEAC UD - 501 DAC
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    KEF Q900 / mains
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    Def Tech ProMonitor 1000 / front & rear presence
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    Equitech Balanced Power Son of Q 1.5R
    Extensive room treatments

  5. #35

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    Looking for some advice on bass management. Just hooked up two RTI8s as main to my RM6000 sub and RTi28 surrounds. Always happy with the 'Polk method' of sub wiring but what's the preferred bass management--Large or Small---what about crossover freq.

  6. #36

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    I just read the link that Pearsall001 provided.

    http://forum.ecoustics.com/bbs/messa...79/128214.html

    That answered some questions I had. Also reading through this whole thread answered almost all of the rest. There is a tremendous amount of collective wisdom in this group.

    As a beginner in this field of home theater, I'm sure I will be lurking around quite a bit.

    I do have one question tho...I purchased the 95 pack (5 rm8's) and a PWS505 sub. If the rm8's are:
    Overall Frequency Response 95Hz-24kHz
    Lower -3dB Limit is 130Hz, does that mean the speaker only works well down to 130Hz?

    So if my sub is:
    Overall Frequency Response 23Hz - 160Hz
    Upper -3dB Limit 125Hz
    Crossover Variable low pass 60 - 125Hz, 4th order(whatever that means)

    Will I still set the crossover to 120? The link provided seems to point to 80 being the magic number, but if I'm interpreting the info correctly my speakers don't even respond to a signal that low.

    The question sounds lame as I write it, but I am truly a novice. Never used a sub woofer before.

    Thanks for any replies

  7. #37

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    Yes you are correct. Provided your main speakers have a -3db point of 80hz or lower, you should set your speakers crossover at 80hz. (you would set the subwoofer LFE crossover (if your AVR has that setting for the subwoofer) to 120hz.

    In your case, with your speakers, I would try 120 and 150hz and see what sounds better to you. I would guess that 150hz may be a little to easy to localise the subwoofer and if that is the case, you may want to try at 120hz.

    Anyway - give it a shot, try some different settings, and let us know what you think.

    Michael
    Mains.............Polk LSi15 (Cherry)
    Center............Polk LSiC (Crossover upgraded)
    Surrounds.......Polk LSi7 (Gloss Black - wood sides removed and crossovers upgraded)
    Subwoofers.....SVS 25-31 CS+ and PC+ (both 20hz tune)
    Pre\Pro...........NAD T163 (Modded with LM4562 opamps)
    Amplifier.........Cinepro 3k6 (6-channel, 500wpc@4ohms)

  8. #38

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    Default Sub Connections

    I am always replying to things years after the fact, but here goes.
    I have heard that a powered sub with a built in variable crossover like my Velodyne X-10 , and a receiver with a crossover built in as well, will be a problem of having two crossovers, if not wired through the "Polk Method"
    Please advise.

  9. #39

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    Quote Originally Posted by niles300z View Post
    I am always replying to things years after the fact, but here goes.
    I have heard that a powered sub with a built in variable crossover like my Velodyne X-10 , and a receiver with a crossover built in as well, will be a problem of having two crossovers, if not wired through the "Polk Method"
    Please advise.
    The key is not to have the two crossovers overlap and cause a gap in response. Typically, you can just dial the variable crossover up to its maximum, then let the AVR handle all the bass management on a digital level.

    The so-called "Polk method" of setting your mains to large, then wiring them through the subwoofer so that the sub controls the transition has several issues, primarily phase and time alignment. It's better to let the AVR handle all the bass management so that your channel delays can line things up without any analog crossover in place to alter delay.
    Equipment list:
    Onkyo TX-NR3010 9.2 AVR
    Emotiva XPA-3 amp
    Polk RTi70 mains, CSi40 center, RTi38 surrounds, RTi28 rears and heights
    SVS 20-39CS+ subwoofer powered by Crown XLS1500
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  10. #40

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    Quote Originally Posted by kuntasensei View Post
    The so-called "Polk method" of setting your mains to large, then wiring them through the subwoofer so that the sub controls the transition has several issues, primarily phase and time alignment.
    Another fact that people like me don't always understand is that when using the "Polk method", everything is passed through the sub to your mains. It's just as if they were hooked up directly to your receiver, no bass is filtered at all. So if you have satellites or smallish bookshelves, you're sending them the low frequencies whether you like it or not.

  11. #41

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    In my post above, I'm referring to most subs. Obviously there are a few subs out there that have a high pass filter. I was thinking about some of Polk's base models and some of their competitors when I made my statement.

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