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  1. #1

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    Default are interconnect cables the same as subwoofer cables

    Hi all,

    I have a somewhat simple question.
    I wanted to know if the cables uses for interconnect are the same as the cables used to connect from the pre-out in the receiver to the in connection on a subwoofer?

    The interconnects are the onces that go from the receiver pre-out to the in in the external amplifier.

    I received some HT cables from signal cables and one of them does not seam to work. They say to send it back and they will check but before I sent it I want to double check that it is not my lack of knowledge.
    I did received 6 cables, 5 I am using with to feed my amp and one of them didn't work but since I already had a cable for my Sub then I just though that one of the interconnects didn't work...

    Any help would be appreciated.
    Current HT setup
    Mains: B&W 804s
    Center: Polk CSi5
    Surround: Polk FXi3
    Sub: Velodyne DLS-3750R
    Receiver: Pioneer SC-07
    Amplifier: Sunfire TGA5200
    TV: Sony KDS60A2020
    DBP: Sony DBP-S350
    CDP: Pioneer DV-48AV
    Interconnect cables: SignalCable analog II
    speaker cables: SignalCable Ultra Speaker Cables Bi-wire

  2. #2

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    SHould work as long as it is an RCA cable. I would not want to use one too long(feet) but it should work until you get your replacement.
    Speakers: SDA-1C (most all the goodies)
    Preamp: Joule Electra LA-150 MKII SE
    Amp: Wright WPA 50-50 EAT KT88s
    Analog: Marantz TT-15S1 MBS Glider SL| Wright WPP100C Amperex BB 6er5 and 7316 & WPM-100 SUT
    Digital: Mac mini 2.3GHz dual-core i5 8g RAM 1.5 TB HDD Music Server Amarra (memory play) - USB - W4S DAC 2
    Cables: Mits S3 IC and Spk cables| PS Audio PCs

    Ofc: Wright WLA12 preamp: Anthem Amp 1: Pio Elite DV-79AVI: Airport Express: CAL Sigma II DAC: PA LS90 sonicaps and mills

  3. #3

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    It is an RCA cable. I was hoping you will say that they are not interchangable, because the one in question is not working but I only tryed using it as an interconnect and not as a sub cable.
    Current HT setup
    Mains: B&W 804s
    Center: Polk CSi5
    Surround: Polk FXi3
    Sub: Velodyne DLS-3750R
    Receiver: Pioneer SC-07
    Amplifier: Sunfire TGA5200
    TV: Sony KDS60A2020
    DBP: Sony DBP-S350
    CDP: Pioneer DV-48AV
    Interconnect cables: SignalCable analog II
    speaker cables: SignalCable Ultra Speaker Cables Bi-wire

  4. #4

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    If it doesn't work as an interconnect cable, it's not going to work anywhere else.
    'Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a turd by the clean end."

  5. #5

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    There shouldn't be any difference. Signal Cable is good stuff, they'll fix you up right.

    Send it back.


    Dave
    Once again we meet at last.

  6. #6

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    Thanks, yes Frank already said they will check and change if needed. I just wanted to double check before I send it and it comes back as user error :-(.

    One last question how do I test conductivity or is it capacitance....
    again, I want to do some leg work just to make sure I did proper testing to see that it was a bad cable...
    Thanks
    Current HT setup
    Mains: B&W 804s
    Center: Polk CSi5
    Surround: Polk FXi3
    Sub: Velodyne DLS-3750R
    Receiver: Pioneer SC-07
    Amplifier: Sunfire TGA5200
    TV: Sony KDS60A2020
    DBP: Sony DBP-S350
    CDP: Pioneer DV-48AV
    Interconnect cables: SignalCable analog II
    speaker cables: SignalCable Ultra Speaker Cables Bi-wire

  7. #7

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    Quote Originally Posted by olilugo View Post
    Thanks, yes Frank already said they will check and change if needed. I just wanted to double check before I send it and it comes back as user error :-(.

    One last question how do I test conductivity or is it capacitance....
    again, I want to do some leg work just to make sure I did proper testing to see that it was a bad cable...
    Thanks
    You could use a VOM meter and make sure you have continuity pin to pin, no continunty collar to pin on both ends and continunity collar to collar.
    Speakers: SDA-1C (most all the goodies)
    Preamp: Joule Electra LA-150 MKII SE
    Amp: Wright WPA 50-50 EAT KT88s
    Analog: Marantz TT-15S1 MBS Glider SL| Wright WPP100C Amperex BB 6er5 and 7316 & WPM-100 SUT
    Digital: Mac mini 2.3GHz dual-core i5 8g RAM 1.5 TB HDD Music Server Amarra (memory play) - USB - W4S DAC 2
    Cables: Mits S3 IC and Spk cables| PS Audio PCs

    Ofc: Wright WLA12 preamp: Anthem Amp 1: Pio Elite DV-79AVI: Airport Express: CAL Sigma II DAC: PA LS90 sonicaps and mills

  8. #8

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    Take a run of rg6 and convert it to RCA with a RCA to F adapter. This is a great shielded cable that can send the signal long runs without interference. In the custom world this is the sub cable of choice.
    Take any high end cable and I will match or beat it with RG6 quad with RCA adapters.
    I also personally like rg59sd

    Dan
    Dan
    My personal quest is to save to world of bad audio, one thread at a time.

  9. #9

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    Frank at signal cable is a great guy, his speaker and power cables are outstanding

  10. #10

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    Quote Originally Posted by olilugo View Post
    Thanks, yes Frank already said they will check and change if needed. I just wanted to double check before I send it and it comes back as user error :-(.

    One last question how do I test conductivity or is it capacitance....
    again, I want to do some leg work just to make sure I did proper testing to see that it was a bad cable...
    Thanks
    IMHO: forget about testing conductivity or capacitance! Just swap the offending cable with one of the five that are working. If it still doesn't work, then it is most probably faulty. If it does work, however, and the working swapped cable no longer works, then there may be something wrong with your receiver or amplifier. You could then test that too, if you think about it, by swapping wires on the front L/R on the amp, but not the front L/R on the reciever (for example, leaving L on the AVR going to R on the amp, and vice versa, for testing purposes only) to see if the problem follows the swap or not. Just a couple of ideas that seem pretty simple to implement!

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