To Spike or Not Spike 1.2 TL's

[michaeljhsda2]

Any improvement/degredation in bass response if I spike my 1.2 TL's? Speakers are sitting on carpet with padding over a concrete basement floor. Thanks for any input.
Mike

[F1nut]

Spike those suckers. I recommend Mye Sound spikes, none better.

[hearingimpared]

Here's the link for Mye Sound spikes.

http://www.myesound.com/

I use them on my 1.2TLs.

[Toolfan66]

Thanks for the link. I was going to be asking this same question for mine.

[treitz3]

Spike those bad boy's!

[erniejade]

Listen to them on this one. I got the ones from Mye on my 1.2 and it did make a difference on the bass for me. It made them much tighter then just having them on the floor without anything.

[thsmith]

Would anyone have recommendations on which Myes for SDA-1Cs on H/W floor. Size, shape and how to mount ?

[F1nut]

The big pointy ones with the floor protectors. You'll need to order T-nuts (1/4"-20) from somewhere like Parts Express and make sure you order the same thread pattern from Mye Sound.

[michaeljhsda2]

I asked the question "Any improvement/degredation in bass response if I spike my 1.2 TL's?"
Jesse said "spike those suckers" and others chimed in as well. All I gotta say is
OMG, the bass response has dramatically improved and that's an understatement. If there's a tweak to be done on these speakers this would be it.
Excellent suggestion. Thanks guys.
Mike

[thuffman03]

Spike them!

[hearingimpared]

I asked the question "Any improvement/degredation in bass response if I spike my 1.2 TL's?"
Jesse said "spike those suckers" and others chimed in as well. All I gotta say is
OMG, the bass response has dramatically improved and that's an understatement. If there's a tweak to be done on these speakers this would be it.
Excellent suggestion. Thanks guys.
Mike

Excellent!!!

[BIZILL]

i never thought about doing this before for some reason. ya'll may have just convinced me. i'm gonna have the foreman in our cnc dept whip me up a set...someday, anyway.

[hearingimpared]

Do it sooner than later B it really does enhance the bass response of your speakers.

[BIZILL]

dang, i may just have to plan it this weekend for monday. i assume the brass is used for anti-corrosive properties, yes? seems that brass will be a bit weak at the tip. brass is semi-maleable. obviously i wouldn't create anything that comes to too fine a point.

[hearingimpared]

dang, i may just have to plan it this weekend for monday. i assume the brass is used for anti-corrosive properties, yes? seems that brass will be a bit weak at the tip. brass is semi-maleable. obviously i wouldn't create anything that comes to too fine a point.

Brass is the BEST!

[megasat16]

Oh Hell, These things are as expensive as the speakers itself. I wonder any cheaper alternative you guys could recommend?

Never mind! I was looking at the wrong page for the pricing.

The pricing for the spike products is at

http://www.myesound.com/Points_n_pads.html

[Toolfan66]

Anybody have the lenght and diameter of a spike that would be best. I was thinking 3/4" in diameter and about an inch in length, minus the thread of course. I was also thinking with a 180lb speaker if i should just make them 1" in diameter and 1 1/4" in length.

[thsmith]

Oh Hell, These things are as expensive as the speakers itself. I wonder any cheaper alternative you guys could recommend?

Never mind! I was looking at the wrong page for the pricing.

The pricing for the spike products is at

http://www.myesound.com/Points_n_pads.html

For SDA-1Cs Oaks on H/W would it be best to have the 5/16" or 1/2" spikes?

How would you install the T-nuts without damging the base (oak) if the 1Cs ?

I want to do this but am nervious about drilling or hammering something into the base. I assume I would remove the factory buttons on the base and place the spikes in buttons locations.

[F1nut]

i assume the brass is used for anti-corrosive properties, yes? seems that brass will be a bit weak at the tip. brass is semi-maleable. obviously i wouldn't create anything that comes to too fine a point.

No, it's used for it's damping qualities.

Every spike I've seen, no matter if it's brass or not, has an extremely fine point. The Mye Sound points are ice pick sharp.

[F1nut]

For SDA-1Cs Oaks on H/W would it be best to have the 5/16" or 1/2" spikes?

How would you install the T-nuts without damging the base (oak) if the 1Cs ?

I want to do this but am nervious about drilling or hammering something into the base. I assume I would remove the factory buttons on the base and place the spikes in buttons locations.

Use the 1" daimeter spikes. Yes, you have to drill a hole, but only about 3/4" deep for the T-nuts. The T-nuts I have from Parts Express require a 5/16" drill bit. The buttons are too close to the corners, measure back about 1.5" from the corner to locate your center point.

[BIZILL]

No, it's used for it's damping qualities.

Every spike I've seen, no matter if it's brass or not, has an extremely fine point. The Mye Sound points are ice pick sharp.

no doubt? how's 'bout aluminum. the good stuff. 6061 or what not.

[hearingimpared]

no doubt? how's 'bout aluminum. the good stuff. 6061 or what not.

I've used aluminum cones under my gear and found brass to be the better damper. Carbon fiber is even better but I don't recommend putting them under a 180 lb speaker even though I've never tried it, it is just my opinion based on using carbon fiber cones under some of my gear.

[BIZILL]

well, i'm hopin' we have some spare brass laying around work. doubtful. otherwise i'll try either steel or aluminum. anything's gotta be better than the factory 1.2tl feet on uneven padded carpet.

[thsmith]

Use the 1" daimeter spikes. Yes, you have to drill a hole, but only about 3/4" deep for the T-nuts. The T-nuts I have from Parts Express require a 5/16" drill bit. The buttons are too close to the corners, measure back about 1.5" from the corner to locate your center point.

Thanks, I will look into the 1"s. I may comeback after looking at PE t-nuts for confirmation I am buying the right ones.

[thsmith]

Use the 1" daimeter spikes. Yes, you have to drill a hole, but only about 3/4" deep for the T-nuts. The T-nuts I have from Parts Express require a 5/16" drill bit. The buttons are too close to the corners, measure back about 1.5" from the corner to locate your center point.

F1, I do not find 1" diameters spikes. Here are the ones I was referring too at mye. The second from right is the one I am thinking I need. Are you referring to something different?

[george daniel]

Guy's, I need to spike my 1C's,, so those of you who are going to do so,,please post here,if you would,as the t nuts come in packs of 50ea IIRC,, so I'll be happy to buy some from ya'll.:)

[F1nut]

Yes, the second from the right has a 1" daimeter. Tell Grant you want the 1/4"-20 thread pattern on that one.

[F1nut]

T-nuts, http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...umber=081-1090

$6.49 for 50.

[BIZILL]

my brizoes, you are only mentioning t-nuts for those who don't already have feet on their sda's, correct? OP was started for spiking the 1.2tl's. and the spikes on myespikes or what not oughtta screw right into the old feet female threads, yes?

just clearing up any confusion. if i'm confused, others may be as well. so let's nip this in the bud.

the feet i'm gonna try to have made will be like the second one from the right on that pic as well.

[thsmith]

Excellent FI. I will be ordering on Monday. I take it for the t-nuts you drill the hole and hammer into base?

Once I get everything I want to mach up where I plan to install them, take a picture and post here before I commit to drilling.

George, I will buy 50 and shoot you 8, ok?