PSW 50, receives signal, but no sound

[iHambone]

Greatings,

I have a PSW 50 purchased several years ago which I currently have connected to a Onkyo DS-595 digital receiver. My set up includes RM series L/R front speakers, a CS 200 and a passive RM sub which I have wired to the RM L/R speakers.

Cambridge Soundworks dipole surrounds handle the rear.

The PSW 50 is hooked up from the LFE output of the ONKYO through a run of Audioquest cable to the line level inputs on the back of the PSW 50. Last night while watching a movie, the powered sub quit. Volume was low to moderate.

I stopped the movie and ran through the speaker configuration mode on the receiver, where pink noise is sent to the different speakers.

When the pink noise reached the receiver, no sound was output.

I powered off the receiver and the sub. When the sub was powered off, its internal amp made the normal "switch" sound of its turning itself off.

After waiting several minutes I powered both back on.

I went back to the speaker configuration menu on the receiver. When passing the signal to the sub this time, the sub turned on, as it always does, but no sound again was output. This led me to believe that the receiver was outputting a signal, the sub was receiving it, but thats as far as the signal was sent. It seems that once the line level input signal is received by the sub, it can't pass it on to the speaker portion of the sub. No sound.

Are there any other troubleshooting ideas you could recommend prior to my seeking service for the sub?

I plan on hooking it up to an older Parasound receiver I have, to see if it will accept and pass on a signal received through the speaker level inputs. But I'm looking for clues.

I had the sub in for service shortly after purchase for failure to detect a signal from a source, but have had great luck since then.

Any help, or troubleshooting suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you,
Dan Reinagel

[Dr. Spec]

Try a speaker level connection to the sub and see what happens. That is, wire one of you mains to the sub high level wire connections and see if it plays when turned on and fed signal.

If it doesn't play, my bet is the amp is dead, or a lead wire broke or fell off inside the speaker, or one of the tinsel leads to the VC broke. The latter two will require removal of the driver for inspection, which is NBD.

[iHambone]

Thank you for your reply.

I'll hook up the sub in the manner you suggest and post back with the results later today.

I appreciate your help!

[iHambone]

Update:

I took the PSW 50 downstairs and hooked it up through its speaker level inputs, to the old Parasound receiver. I hooked it up to the B speaker outputs of the receiver.

When I went to play a CD, sound came through the speakers hooked up to the A speaker outputs. When I switched on the B speakers, the amp "clicked" on, but output no sound. So the PSW 50 seems to be getting a signal, the signal received turns on the amp, and thats the end of it. No sound output from the speaker.

I guess its time to take it in.

Next question, this is a 8 inch sub, no crossover frequency adjustments etc. At what point would you weigh the cost of repair vs the cost of a new sub. Polk currently has a PSW 250 for $199 with free shipping. Hmmmmm.

What would everyone do. I can't really at this time spend a whole lot on a sub. While I'd like a nice 10 inch, that would be out of my budget.

Does anyone have experience with the PSW 250?

[Dr. Spec]

"or a lead wire broke or fell off inside the speaker, or one of the tinsel leads to the VC broke. The latter two will require removal of the driver for inspection, which is NBD."

Take out the driver and check for the above two before you do anything else.

[iHambone]

Ok, now I'm getting nervous. I'll open up a computer and play with its guts, but I've never done anything to a speaker.

So to remove the driver, I remove the visible screws in the rubber surround? There are four.

Once removed, do I simply pull the driver forward to view the backside, and inspect the wiring?

Just a little nervous, but willing to give it a go.

Thanks Dr. Spec!

[iHambone]

Ok, I took off the driver and looked at the wires connecting to the the back of the driver. I guess thats the VC, voice coil?

The two wires leading to the VC were connected quite securely.

Hmm.

Anything else I can disasseble and inspect prior to taking it in. I'm off work today, so taking it in might be something I do later in the day.

Thanks for any suggestions

[iHambone]

I opened up the rear panel, and have the amp lying on the floor. Everything looks just fine.........of course I don't know what I'm looking for. There is a fuse which looks OK. I contacted Polk and a replacement amp is going to cost $280.

Still looking guidance oh wise ones.

[Dr. Spec]

There are two sets of leads. One from the amp to the speaker.

The other is a flexible tinsel set of wires running inside the spider and into the voice coil. Sometimes they break after flexing 80 jillion times.

A simpler way is hook the speaker directly up to the feed from your mains and see if it plays. If it does, the problem is a dead amp and not the driver.

Buy your replacement amp from Parts Express for $100 - its every bit as good as the Polk amp for 1/3 the cost. www.partsexpress.com

Doc

[iHambone]

Just received this email response from Polk.

Hello Dan,
The best thing to do is to:
1). un-plug the unit's AC power cord and remove the grille cover covering
the woofer.
2). remove the four screws holding the woofer onto the surface of the
enclosure and pull the woofer away from the cabinet.
3). disconnect the two wires attached to the woofer and send it to: Polk
Audio, 2550 Britannia Blvd., Suite D, San Diego, CA. 92154, please include a
short note giving us your name and address and a copy of your sales receipt.
The service department will quickly send a replacement driver.
Best regards, Ken, Polk Customer
Service

[iHambone]

Dr. Spec, you were dead on.

As I was removing the driver to send it in for repair, I noticed one of the "tinsel" wires (if I'm using the correct terminology) was no longer connected.

So your diagnosis Dr. was indeed correct.

Good show.

I'M SOOOO GLAD IT ISN'T THE AMP.

Thanks for all of you help,
Dan

[Dr. Spec]

Cool - I doubt the wire can be repaired - better to have Polk replace the driver. The other one is probably ready to bust anyway.

[iHambone]

The driver is on its way to be repaired or replaced. I'll post back when its all resolved. So far, I'm very impressed with Polk, and this forum.

Cheers,
Dan

[iHambone]

OK,

I received the new driver today, and installed it!!!!!!

$49.00 sweeeet.

Working like a charm.

Now for a much debated question. Should I use a Y splitter to "split" the signal from the receiver to the line level input on the subwoofer. In other words, should I take the LFE output from the receiver, and split the signal to go in to the left and right low level inputs on the receiver.

Hmmmm?

Thanks for everyone, eSPECially Dr. Spec for all the help.

Dan

[Dr. Spec]

Originally posted by iHambone
Now for a much debated question. Should I use a Y splitter to "split" the signal from the receiver to the line level input on the subwoofer. In other words, should I take the LFE output from the receiver, and split the signal to go in to the left and right low level inputs on the receiver.

Glad your sub is up and running - $50 is a good price for the driver.

Y splitting the LFE feed doubles the input voltage - that's all. You can do the same thing by cranking up the sub level control in the receiver - and that costs you nothing.

It will not magically add more maximum power or volume - it's only a piece of cable. It will however, make the auto on circuit easier to initialize and less likely to shut back off - if you have a "sleepy" sub.

[iHambone]

My sub is a little sleepy, so I'll use a y simple for that reason. Thanks for all of your help and the follow up.

Dam