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  1. #1
    Joe
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    Question Polk DX, 2 volt or 4 volt input?

    Hey everyone, I just purchased a Polk Dx12, and I just need some help. I bought a Cd player, it has two set or preamp outputs on it. One front and One rear. And each output is 2 volts.
    So, when I hook my amp up to the rear input, will the 2 volts be a problem? I mean, if it is I can always take it back and get a 4volt output cd player, but i just dont know. My amps is 400 watts RMS when you bridge it to one channel (it a Boss REV-635) I am worried if the output signal will just not be strong enough, but then again i could be wrong.

    any help would be appreciated

  2. #2

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    The voltage of your pre-amp outputs has nothing to do with your subwoofer selection. What is important about the voltage of your pre-amp output is how much signal loss you will experience versus the 4 volt output and what level teh amplifier gain will need to be set on to get the best performance.

    I don't know who told you that your pre-amp output voltage affects yours subwoofer in any other way than what I mentioned but I would advise you not to seek advice or even listen to that person anymore.

  3. #3

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    in addition to what jstas said ... why only 400 watts two TWO dx 12's ??????? u can put about 350 on them happily -- thats more like 700. ... 400 wont give u much bump.
    "With your own attitude it is hard to survive here... But who gives a damn, we are here to change the world, and we dont need a password for that."
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    I beg to differ. 200 watts per sub may not be mind-numbingly loud but it is ample power to give a good kick in the pants inside the vehicle. One thing about Polk subs (I have yet to hear the MOMO subs) is that when mounted in the ideal sealed enclosure, they are very efficient. Yes, they will play considerably louder but I was running 200 watts peak on my dB in my Thunderbird and it was rated well beyond that at 600 watts. Yet it could be heard down the street. It was plenty loud. Just make sure the enclosure is built right and it will give plenty of clean, tight bass.

  5. #5
    Joe2
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    Default well...

    well, i have only ONE Polk Dx 12, NOT TWO. so it will be getting 400 watts RMS. I was just oncerned on the ound quality about it. My amp has level control so maybe i will just need some tweaking. Another thing, anyone know where I can get some gaskets? DX's come with them, but I bought mine used. I am pretty sure they help keep the encloseure sealed perfectly. However, would putting some hot glue around the edge of the hole on my box help? I could just let it dry, and this ring of dry glue whould be around it. then, when i screw my sub in, the screws will go through the glue. Thus making a makeshift gasket. But hey idk, i am new at this stuff



    Thank you for your reply

    (by the way, This is Joe, it would not let me post under my name again !! How weird)

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    I would advise against hot glue. Actually, any glue.

    There is a thing called plumber's dope. At least that is what I think it is called. It has nothing to do with drugs. That is not a nickname either, it's teh real name. Anyway, it's gooey stuff that doesn't really stick to anything and would make a perfect gasket material. You can get it any home improvement/hardware store. Grab some of that and use that.

    Another option is double sided foam tape. You can also get that at a home improvement store or an auto parts store in the weatherstripping section. Also, you can actually get it at a hobby store. It's used to hold down electronics in Radio Controlled cars and planes. You will have to cut it yourself but it will work.

    You could also make your own rubber gaskets from sheets of gasket material that you can get at a car parts store. Cork is the best deal but rubber works too. You will have to make your own and it will be difficult to find a sheet big enough to get a full 1 piece gasket out of but you can do it with multiple pieces to the gasket.

    As far as your post allowance. Just register. You serial number for your sub should be on the sticker on the magnet. Put that into the serial number field and it should work.

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    ok, this is joe, my new user name is now joe3, anywho, thanks for the help, i'll try and get some of that plumber dope.lol.

    wherever shall i mount this dope? should it be around the very edge of the circle, where i place the sub, or should it be the woofer, on the bottom part that touches the outside? man i am car audio illiterate i tell ya
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    joe 1 2 and 3...lol... you'll notice tha twhen you go to mount the sub, only that circle part where the sccrews go through actually will "mount" to wood... so basically "connect the dots"... lay the dope / foam / whatever all along the back part of the dots all the way around... one solid piece... then lay it into the mounting hole and screw it down tight....
    "With your own attitude it is hard to survive here... But who gives a damn, we are here to change the world, and we dont need a password for that."
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    hey thanks for the help, i shall apply it:) .
    one more question, is it ok to have the screws go through the dope? as in when i lay in there, it will cover the part of the hole where the screw goes out. then, i screw it in and i gues it would go right through the dope. man i feel wierd refering to dope as an adhesive:p . anywho, juest lemme know if it will work. i plan on using 1 inch drywall screw for it, i probably should not pre-dill the holes however.
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    Yes, the screws can go through the sealer. It's not an adhesive. Its tacky but it certainly will not holding anything together.

    What are you going to use the drywall screws for? If it is builing the box then no, I guess don't HAVE to pre-drill holes but I would recommend it. If it is for mounting the speaker then I have to ask why aren't you using the screws that came with the speaker? Also, you have to pre-drill the holes for the speaker mounting otherwise, you can crack the mounting surface and then...well...that's bad, mmmkay? The only time I haven't pre-drilled holes is when I crank the screws in by hand.

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    well, i bought it off ebay, so i just go the speaker. any recomendations on what type of screws i should use? i am alos buying the box on ebay. I will pre-drill the holes when i mount it though.
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    Use wood screws. Drywal screws aren't the best idea for wood but wood screws will work like a charm. They are designed to have a better bite in wood where as drywall screws have a steep screw angle so they don't crack the drywall. Wood screws have a much more shallow angle so they bite the wood better. They will hold much better and resist vibration more. Using wood glue and wood screws will make a box sol solid granite will be jealous! Just pre-drill for the wood screws so you don't split wood.

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    To answer your questions about Polk needing a ton of power in order to get them to bump, as of yesterday, I istalled my two 12" GNX's and am currently running them with a Punch 301S. Now, correct me if I am wrong, but I am only running 75 watts to each of these things and while they won't blow you out of your seat, they hit decently. That's not to say they couldn't bump more, but until my new amp arrives, it's going to get me by.

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    ok everyone, after a longs time's worth of ebay-ing, i finally bought my sub box, and the plumbers putty, and wood screws

    I tested it on the brother's home surround sound system. It sounded good, but to many high notes, when i get it in my car, it will sound better

    I pre-driled my holes, then i applied puty to the bottom of the part on the sub that attaches to inside of the box. Now, here is what i am worried about: i think some puddy might have stuck into the box, if it is in the box, but just sticking to the side, will it casue a problem? also, I was quite suprises when I screwed in my screws, i was VERY suprised they actually went though the pre-drilled holes, or did they? the screws went it at different angles and what not, but I know I did not crack the wood, becasue i would have heard something.once screw went in going own right, while some others went left, but the sub is on there tight and no air leaks. another thing, the wires. Will it hurt the sub if the wires inside are dangling and what not to the music? I dont think so but i just don't know. I took two 16 gauge wires and twisted them together, using one for each terminal. Basicly, there are 4 wires in my box, two to each terminal, but i taped them together.

    Does it sound like I might have done something wrong? I might sound stupid. but I am new to car stereos! because I just bought a car and the current stereo was too lame!

    thanks for your reply
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    sounds like everything is fine -- the putty being inside a little no problem, screws at difft angles is actually normal.... it neverlines up perfect and in order to match the holes u sometimes get a ltitle bend ... danglig wire -- not a problem.
    "With your own attitude it is hard to survive here... But who gives a damn, we are here to change the world, and we dont need a password for that."
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    The only issue with teh dangling wire is if it rattles. That is easily fixable, just pull the sub again and get one of those wire tire down with the screw and clamp the wire down to the side of the box. You might also be able to use some of the sealant to stick that wire down. Its tacky enough to hold a wire no problem. If you polyfilled the box though (white fiber stuffing) it shouldn't rattle too much.

    As far as the gasket material getting a little out of place, it shouldn't be a problem, but, if you are worried about it you can look for the air leak. An easy way is to get a fluffy feather like from a down comforter or one of those nylon static dusters. They the sub and hold the feather or duster near the area where that hole might be. If it moves in and out violently with the sub movement, you might have a leak. If it only vibrates lightly, you don't have a problem. You can also use the back of your hand to feel it or your cheek, if you care to get your head that close. Th reason you use thos parts to feel is because they are the most sensitive compared to other options.

    You can also use cigarette smoke if you know a smoker. Just try not to burn the box, carpeting, speaker or yourself for that matter. If you hold the cigarette close enough to a posisble leak, if there is a leak, the speaker will look like it is puffing itself. It will suck smoke in and blow smoke away from the leak. If you get only normal rising of the cigarette smoke then you have no worries.

    Oh, all test need to be done when the speaker is playing sounds otherwise you won't have any air movement.

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