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  1. #1

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    Default need to know for sure

    After saying I would not do this mod I again possibly am switching gears and might do it if the concesous is over whelming. The op posted going into his SDAs and did his own banana style 1 wire I/C cable and looked ok. Jesse comes and shows his handywork using the Neutrik connectors.I went to P/E for giggles and found the Neutrik NL2FX cable mount #092-198 @
    $2.93 per piece.Then I found the NL4MP #092-052 panel mount @$2.19 per piece.If these are the right devices and I already have 10 gu. sj from Home Depot for free because it was cut and on the scrap pile and drill bits.So I also have either silcone or Armaflex for sealing and either a solering gun or can get stakons I need this to be answered. Is this a mod that gets real results as dramatically as the rdo-194s or Dyamating was for me.Is it that impressive? Clearly the lower 10 gu. is a good thing already but is it good enough to drill into the rear of your speaker and this mod be a visible one. So far nothing ordered wire I have, tools and sundry other perifferal stuff I also have.

  2. #2

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    Quote Originally Posted by leftwinger57 View Post
    After saying I would not do this mod I again possibly am switching gears and might do it if the concesous is over whelming. The op posted going into his SDAs and did his own banana style 1 wire I/C cable and looked ok. Jesse comes and shows his handywork using the Neutrik connectors.I went to P/E for giggles and found the Neutrik NL2FX cable mount #092-198 @
    $2.93 per piece.Then I found the NL4MP #092-052 panel mount @$2.19 per piece.If these are the right devices and I already have 10 gu. sj from Home Depot for free because it was cut and on the scrap pile and drill bits.So I also have either silcone or Armaflex for sealing and either a solering gun or can get stakons I need this to be answered. Is this a mod that gets real results as dramatically as the rdo-194s or Dyamating was for me.Is it that impressive? Clearly the lower 10 gu. is a good thing already but is it good enough to drill into the rear of your speaker and this mod be a visible one. So far nothing ordered wire I have, tools and sundry other perifferal stuff I also have.
    IF I was to do this I would use something better than extension cord wire......

    When I did mine it was before the Neutrik came along I used binding post BUT IF I WAS GOING TO DO IT AGAIN I would be all over the neutrik stuff with good Speaker wire PREFERABLY the same as I used to go to speakers. Mine are Signal ULTRA on one set and Canare 4s11 on the other set all the same wire for interconnect and speaker.

  3. #3

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    This is not extension cord wire. It's not zip cord it's 10 gu black(sj) soft jacketed which is pretty heavy duty.Really right now not interested in what you used and what you would not use .My question is how much impact does it make or is this to go along w/ the club boys to be like the Joneses.I also was informed that Stakons are the way to fasten and not to solder.
    Before I invest in any more anything I want to know how good is this mod that's all. In the mean time I'll refer back to the handbook and see what they say about making new I/Cs and results of doing this.

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    I just went back to the Handbook and what it says, Replace the i/c cable w/ a heavier gu wire.Doesn't say use OFC wire, wound w/ Gold leaf, thatched w/ banana leaves or whatever the latest and most expensive thing out there is. My 10gu is way heavier than the original cable and FREE, still what I really what to know before anything gets done is this worth it,that's all. The only comparison I have is the difference between the Silver Domes and the RDO-194s.There it's a dramtic difference, also the dynamatting and cancelling out reveberation also a heard difference.

  5. #5

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    I'm not here to argue with you at all. I know the code to wire SJ, SJOOW ect. S stands for Service J is for Junior. here a link

    http://www.awcwire.com/producttoc.as...-portable-cord

    and I NEVER EVER SAID anything about super expensive wire both of mine were reasonable priced regular wire from reputable source. Give that wire a try see what you think. I used it to build extension and IEC cords for my amps and such. I found a difference when I built a better wire.

    By the way the reason I made the statement to try and used the same wire IS SO you can tell if it made a difference for the better. IT would help to make an informed decision as to compare apples to apples.
    Last edited by pitdogg2; 12-18-2013 at 03:20 PM.

  6. #6

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    You can buy all the parts from Trey, VR3 here on the forum. I say support the local forum polkie..

    Even get some good wire from him..

    AND FORGET THE SILCONE, DO NOT USE IT AT ALL......
    No Way But The Hard Way, So Get Used To It!!!

  7. #7

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    They added the oo for oil resistant wire but the sj was and does stand for soft jacketed as opposed to heavily hardend insulated for underground applications or suspended wire facing the elements. I don't really care,I got it for FREE and will try. After all you still never answered the orignial question instead got hung up w/ what wire I was using or calling it.Reasonably priced to you would be expensive for me and Free at a heavier gu will be fine.Remember it's my football...Just answer the question.Informed would be knowing what it sounds like now and if there is that wow factor after the new one or just spent more coin mixing the kool-aide.

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    Larry for cleaning I know.The Pledge episode was pretty f#&king informative what Jeese said. If I told him I've seen people use the stuff on Queen Anne,and ball and claw feet furniture even Chippendale he would platz. Now if your talking about the fastening goop G.E. tube type, yes that I heard gives off gases and breaks down everything. Thanks

  9. #9

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    well you are wrong did you even look at the link? Really what if the wire was rated for 600v that same wire uses the same jacket so it would be Soow anything at 300v is SJ period JUNIOR IS FOR LESS THAN 600v

    your soft jacket is just bunk "You can tell what type of jacket the cord has by reading the letters as well. A thermoplastic elastomer jacket will have the letter "E", usually after the "S" or "SJ" depending on the service type. A thermoplastic jacket will have a "T" instead of an "E" in the same spot. The absence of an "E" or a "T" means it has a thermoset rubber jacket."

    As you can plainly see it is still SJ but with a tough inflexible THERMOPLASTIC instead...

    And I answered your question it is right there post 5

    GOOD GRIEF just trying to help and you get completely ......BOZO

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