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  1. #61

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    After applying the acoustic foam and assembling the port.


    Inside look through the front. Port done and amp set inside, I decided not to run the wires the way they're shown. Was afraid they would rattle inside the hole or something.


    Rear all done up


    Complete and sitting next to my speakers.
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  2. #62

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    Lookin' good Kawi! :) I missed it but where did you source your part's (driver/plate amp) from?

    Do you plan on "finishing" the outside or just bare?

    Cheer's!
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  3. #63

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    Quote Originally Posted by sTiLlLeArNiNg View Post
    Lookin' good Kawi! :) I missed it but where did you source your part's (driver/plate amp) from?

    Do you plan on "finishing" the outside or just bare?

    Cheer's!
    Thanks!

    The plateamp came from a local friend here that had it for an extra SVS driver but later decided he wanted something bigger. Got it for only 80, and it looks pretty damn new..box+instructions too.

    As for the driver, I picked that up from Jeffrey (Jephhood) on here for 50+30 shipping.

    I do plan on finishing it but it just sounded so good I'd hate to take a few things out, primer+paint and be without a sub for awhile It can continue to look bare since I don't really mind and we don't have much company over anyway.

    On another note, that tool I picked up from Sears I took back. Claims it can cut ply/drywall/mdf/solid wood and so on using the multi-purpose bits and it just scorched the MDF. Circular cuts were made with a jigsaw, although I do see how that attachment sold by Parts-express can be a life saver if you're building several speakers. Total is still under 240, and it was well worth it :D
    Last edited by kawizx9r; 10-05-2009 at 08:52 AM.
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  4. #64

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    And you have this in an apartment?!?!?

    I'm starting to get second thoughts about selling my Klipsch then. It can't POSSIBLY piss off my neighbors as badly as this thing. :p

    Awesome job man... you've given me inspiration to do this myself in the coming months. :D
    I don't read the newsssspaperssss because dey aaaallllllllll...... have ugly print.

  5. #65

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    Quote Originally Posted by concealer404 View Post
    And you have this in an apartment?!?!?

    I'm starting to get second thoughts about selling my Klipsch then. It can't POSSIBLY piss off my neighbors as badly as this thing. :p

    Awesome job man... you've given me inspiration to do this myself in the coming months. :D
    Yea, no one came out into the hallway....even with all the drilling I was doing. Let's hope it's not neighbors coming to my door later though if I ever get it set up properly. Moving this around for proper placement is a B!
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  6. #66

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    To add to that last statement, I think I need another subwoofer lol.

    I'm listening to old tracks, bassy-trance/electronica I haven't heard in years. I can't measure how low it goes but there are times that it moves, and rattles everything but I can't hear a note played....probably under the audible range of 20hz? It's just a little too focused on the really deep bass. For the +adding a sub, I mean to say a mid-bass driver. Would use the built ins from my towers but I'd hate to run both. Otherwise it's sounding sweet!
    Last edited by kawizx9r; 10-05-2009 at 11:18 AM.
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  7. #67

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    Quote Originally Posted by kawizx9r View Post
    To add to that last statement, I think I need another subwoofer lol.

    I'm listening to old tracks, bassy-trance/electronica I haven't heard in years. I can't measure how low it goes but there are times that it moves, and rattles everything but I can't hear a note played....probably under the audible range of 20hz? It's just a little too focused on the really deep bass. For the +adding a sub, I mean to say a mid-bass driver. Would use the built ins from my towers but I'd hate to run both. Otherwise it's sounding sweet!
    I use that kind of stuff to measure if i've got everything in sync. It'll tell you immediately if your sub is delayed, or not crossed over at the right frequency, etc etc etc. It's all revealing.

    What are you listening to?
    I don't read the newsssspaperssss because dey aaaallllllllll...... have ugly print.

  8. #68

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    Well I'm listening to old Dj Tiesto, bassoholics and a bunch of other stuff that I don't generally listen to and won't once I'm done with this. Bassy music for me just helps me better set my sub up to meet my needs. I'm messing around with LFE+MAIN (for bass output on my AVR), as well as Cross-over cut offs on my AVR to find a nice blend. Thing is sometimes the low bass just hits so hard, and I turn it down a notch and the higher bass frequencies of around 60-100 aren't anywhere near as loud as the low bass. Might be placement/room issues since it's emphasizing the really deep bass. I'm still messing around with it though it'll just be awhile.
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  9. #69

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    Strangely enough.... i found my setup sounded best running my mains full range, and my sub crossed at 55hz. Go figure.
    I don't read the newsssspaperssss because dey aaaallllllllll...... have ugly print.

  10. #70

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    Quote Originally Posted by concealer404 View Post
    Strangely enough.... i found my setup sounded best running my mains full range, and my sub crossed at 55hz. Go figure.
    I did too with the x-over close to what you have yours set to when I ran my Velodyne (my fronts were set to Large). It blended so well, however the Velo only reached down to 25hz and when it came to that point the output was pretty low. On the otherhand, this is the opposite. I know I'm getting at least 20hz and the output is loud. I still need to move it around to tame the "lowness" a bit before I can start blending it with my mains.
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  11. #71

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    Nice work on the sub. It looks like a low freq beast. My wife would never allow such a behemoth in our living room though. I was lucky to get our comparatively svelte SVS PC+ (the shortest one) in there. Maybe I missed it somewhere, but what driver did you use? Is it a Dayton too?

  12. #72

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    Quote Originally Posted by billbillw View Post
    Nice work on the sub. It looks like a low freq beast. My wife would never allow such a behemoth in our living room though. I was lucky to get our comparatively svelte SVS PC+ (the shortest one) in there. Maybe I missed it somewhere, but what driver did you use? Is it a Dayton too?
    It's a used HSU Research driver taken from the HSU VTF-3 HO model.
    - http://www.hsuresearch.com/products/vtf-3-ho.html

    Well, unless I replace my tower surrounds with something else....the built-in subs nicely fill in the gap :D

    I always wanted to get one of those SVS cylinder subs. I heard one at a low volume and you just knew it was a beast of a sub. Probably don't have as much weight when it comes to music pounding bass, but it hits those lows with ease and I was very impressed. Who knows, the next sub later on might be a sonosub
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  13. #73

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    Quote Originally Posted by kawizx9r View Post
    It's a used HSU Research driver taken from the HSU VTF-3 HO model.
    - http://www.hsuresearch.com/products/vtf-3-ho.html

    Well, unless I replace my tower surrounds with something else....the built-in subs nicely fill in the gap :D

    I always wanted to get one of those SVS cylinder subs. I heard one at a low volume and you just knew it was a beast of a sub. Probably don't have as much weight when it comes to music pounding bass, but it hits those lows with ease and I was very impressed. Who knows, the next sub later on might be a sonosub
    Well, mine is the shortest one that is only tuned to 25Hz (IIRC), so it really doesn't hit as low as the taller ones. Supposedly, the shorter one actually plays louder though, which is what I needed since our living room is huge.

  14. #74

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    Quote Originally Posted by billbillw View Post
    Well, mine is the shortest one that is only tuned to 25Hz (IIRC), so it really doesn't hit as low as the taller ones. Supposedly, the shorter one actually plays louder though, which is what I needed since our living room is huge.
    Convince the wife that hitting "16hz" is the trend around here. Or better yet show her the huge, ridiculous-looking (notice that I said looking not sounding) subwoofers found all over the net and that she should be glad you're not running anything like that............yet. :p
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  15. #75

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    Quote Originally Posted by kawizx9r View Post
    Convince the wife that hitting "16hz" is the trend around here. Or better yet show her the huge, ridiculous-looking (notice that I said looking not sounding) subwoofers found all over the net and that she should be glad you're not running anything like that............yet. :p
    I don't need to convince her of anything since she has never complained about the SVS and I have no desire to have anything larger.

  16. #76

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    Dude.. NICE!! Glad that driver came to good use. :) Now sand the box down and put a tough finish on it. Congrats on the good work!

  17. #77

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    Quote Originally Posted by jephdood View Post
    Dude.. NICE!! Glad that driver came to good use. :) Now sand the box down and put a tough finish on it. Congrats on the good work!
    Thanks Jeff!
    It's my 'Beast'
    I want to sand it down and put a simple/clean textured finish on it but it's raining like hell out here (would have to do it outside due to lack of my own workshop) and I'd be without a subwoofer for a few days while I finish it :(

    I'll get to it, just not yet :p
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  18. #78

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    Ok, still posting on this thread because I've been using my subwoofer but haven't sanded it out or primered it yet for a finish.

    What kind of wood filler would one recommend for MDF?

    I noticed there are solvent based and water based, and although I read some differences between the two what would be my best choice when applying it to MDF board? I want to hide all the screws throughout my subwoofer so it looks really clean all the way around.

    Also, I talked to someone here that works at a BMW body shop and he says primer, sand, paint, sand, paint, wet & dry sand or sand with 400+ grit and paint for a smooth piano looking finish. Any advice anyone wants to throw in in regards to that?

    One last thing, because a panel slightly sticks out a bit and isn't completely flush....should I just sand the hell out of it down or is there something to lightly fill the gap in?

    -Freddy
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  19. #79

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    I would sand everything smooth (belt sander if ya got one) and use a mix of carpenter glue + sawdust for filler :o The BMW guy has the right process but i think the paper is to coarse, might wanna try something a lil' higher for the finish sanding (I'm use to this type of thing being done on metal) maybe like a 600 or 800?
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  20. #80

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    Quote Originally Posted by sTiLlLeArNiNg View Post
    I would sand everything smooth (belt sander if ya got one) and use a mix of carpenter glue + sawdust for filler :o The BMW guy has the right process but i think the paper is to coarse, might wanna try something a lil' higher for the finish sanding (I'm use to this type of thing being done on metal) maybe like a 600 or 800?
    Don't have one but I'll see if I can get my hands on one. The only real downfall to this is not having the proper tools, but if I did buy the proper tools to effectively build a sub and/or speakers it'd cost alot and that type of purchase can't be justified for a few speakers alone....hmm.

    I said 400+, but I honestly think he did say something like 600 or 800 so you're both just saying the same thing.

    So sawdust+carpenter glue for hiding the screws huh? I'll look into that.

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  21. #81

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    You can get the same effect, minus the elbow grease, by using a sanding block. My grandfather was a carpenter/cabinet maker by trade and he always used sawdust mixed with glue, maybe cuz he was a cheap wop? I dunno :o

    I have seen custom audio box builder's also use bondo/fiberglass to fill in and add shape's....
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  22. #82

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    Been sanding the subwoofer down earlier today and just finished giving it a coat of primer. Took some shots in between both jobs so here you go!
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  23. #83

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    Here's a pic of the front after being sanded down. I did it by hand since the mdf is softer than I thought and using a power sander for the edges (as I intended) was a bit too much. I rounded them off because frankly, the edges were just too sharp for my liking.



    Here's one I took in the middle of applying the first coat of primer. After it dries up, I'm going to sand it down some and apply another coat afterward.

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  24. #84

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    Automotive spot putty works well as a filler. You use it after priming then skim coat the whole thing. Painting wood is just like painting a car. Every little imperfection sticks out like a Honky's but in a tar pit.
    Please. Please contact me a ben62670 @ yahoo.com. Make sure to include who you are, and you are from Polk so I don't delete your email. Also I am now physically unable to work on any projects. If you need help let these guys know. There are many people who will help if you let them know where you are.
    Thanks
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    +100 on Body putty..get the "fine" grade...they have it at Napa..one step and fills in like glass (after sanding of course)

  26. #86

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    Thanks Ben, I'll look into it since I'm OCD about these things.

    I picked up some good quality enamel paint (black) but I'm not sure I want to actually paint it in such a way.

    Question is, I've decided for a "textured" look. What's a good/quick/hassle-free way of getting such a finish and what type of paint should I look for exactly? Whenever I go to Sherman Williams, Lowe's and Home Depot I'm just overwhelmed with all the damn paint they carry. Thanks again guys, of course I'll provide everyone here with pics on my progress :D

    -Freddy
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  27. #87

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    i used bondo for auto repair to fill my gaps. worked very nicely and dries pretty quick as well. that way you can get back to sanding without waiting ten years. oh man, if only you could borrow up somebody's router to round off all corners...and ditto on imperfections sticking out like a soar thumb working with wood. the box i made for my truck had a tiny lip on it i could hardly feel by hand that showed up when i applied the spray-on truck bed liner. i had to give it some extra coats on those spots.

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  28. #88

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    Hehe, I haven't sanded it down since it's been primered and I do have a sander....not a router though.

    I guess I'll work on the corners some with it, it's just by hand it seemed to go down pretty quick and just felt so much softer than wood so I didn't even want to bother. I'll do it up tomorrow, looks pretty cool right now in all-white. I wondered if I chose white, it'd be pretty cool to see the contrast with the black amp/rear port and sub-driver.
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    not a large enough picture, but this is with spray-on bedliner. it came out very nice in person. pretty uniform. but the brand i used which i don't recall now took weeks to cure. it stayed pretty "spongy" for awhile but now it's hard as a bedliner should be. kids kick it all the time when sitting in the extended cab and it holds up no problem. the texture is very much like my svs inside the home theater.


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    ONKYO TX-SR805
    CENTER: CSI5
    MAINS: RTI8'S
    SURROUNDS: RTI8'S
    7.1 SURROUNDS: RTI6'S
    SUB: SVS PB12-PLUS/2 (12.3 series)

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  30. #90

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    Hmm, my cousin's truck had Rhino lining. I thought about a type of spray on bed liner but I haven't seen/experienced any other brand than Rhino and that stuff was like.....5-grit sandpaper LOL It was textured/rough as hell!
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    Last Post: 02-03-2003, 09:36 PM

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