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  1. #1

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    Default M10 upgrade xover

    I am new to the polk forum and this is my first posting but have been reading with interest on this forum as I have a M10B own since 1987 with SL 2000 Tweeter and the 5jr+ for 2 years with SL 2500 and I wish to upgrade the xover on both speaker with sonic cap.The 5jr+ is rather straight with only 13.5uf and 1 ohm resistor but as for the 10B I have the following questions

    In my Xover I have the

    1. 12uf
    1. 34uf
    1. Polyswtich
    1. 2ohms 5 w resistor
    1. 2.7 ohm 5 w resistor
    1.Yellow or orange cap do not know what is it

    Question

    1.Polyswitch is be taken out, does it need to replace anything there
    2.The yellow or orange cap must it be replace when upgrading the xover
    3.In the systematic shows 2 12uf can advise where is the other 12uf as I am unable to locate the other 12uf
    4.In this forum advise also to replace with 2 12 uf cap please verify

    I need your expert guidance

    Thank you

    Wilson

  2. #2

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    One of our fine members here stated once upon a time that you will be best served by replacing it with a resistor and I can't remember but maybe .5ohm
    Polk Audio customer service will send you a couple new ones at no charge.
    Replace all capacitors with same value caps. 12uF's are easy to come by.
    Hope that helps.

  3. #3

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    Have you taken the x-over out and looked at the values and number of caps and resistors? If not do that and take some pictures. Pictures are always a great thing to do.

  4. #4

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    Welcome to the Club by the way.

  5. #5

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    [/ATTACH]NJ Thanks for your welcome note
    My Xover is the same in the picture attach and this picture also show only 1x12uf cap same as mine. Need expert advise as in this forum is to use 2 x12uf cap so when I am upgarding my xover do i used only 1x12uf cap as shown in the picture it have only 1 x12uf cap

    Thank you
    Wilson
    Attached Images  

  6. #6

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    That yellow cap is the other 12 uf cap. Polk used different caps for the highs and lows. (you can use the same brand for both).

    For the polyswitch, just replace it with a jumper made of solid wire.
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    Confirm on the yellow Cap being a 12uF.
    The value is under the sticker.
    I have the same Cap in my 7b's

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    Ricardo you mean the very small cap on top of the 12uf cap is the other new 12uf cap to place.Kindly confirm as I am an idiot when come to electronics

    Thank you

  9. #9

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    The yellow cap with the sticker on it is a 12uF capacitor. Under the other (blue) 12uF cap and hot melt glue are the two resistors.

  10. #10

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    Your crossovers look to be in good shape. Be careful when you go to remove the board from the four standoff's. Use a pair of needle nose pliers to gently squeeze the little barbs in and then gently work the board off them. You really don't want to compromise them since they can be hard to find and making something else may work but it will be a nicer job when you retain the original parts. As I remember some of the guys around here have added a drop of hot melt glue to them to be sure they have good strength. That should not be needed if you are careful. Just some friendly advice.

  11. #11

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    NJ thank you for your advice will definitely be more cautious when handling the Xover
    So where is the polyswitch can confirm is it the very small brown cap is the poly swtich??

    When I am going to upgrade all the caps especially the 34uf Soniccap do not have 34uf and I need to use 2x17uf can I hot glue both of them as I am not sure whether the cap can stand the heat from the hot glue gun

    Thank you
    Wilson

  12. #12

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    the polyswitch should a orange small 'lollypop' lookin resistor first in line from the terminals.

    I am lookin at doing my xovers, and from what I have read/ researched, you don't really need to use the Sonicap's ($40) on the LP circuit, the 34uF. I am going with the Dayton's ($10ea) or maybe the lower cost Clarity Caps-Px ($18).
    Dayton (33uF) is ok, btw, as the old ones are +/- 10%
    http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...number=027-441


    As far as SoniCaps not having specific values, if you go that way, they will make you some for whatever value you want. Just cost the price of the next higher Cap.

    And, yeh, ppl do do the hot glue thing, or else just use zip ties or dbl stick tape.

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    The caps can handle the hot glue no problem. Don't hot glue the resistors. Do one XO at a time so you have a model. Also never cut the cap and resistor leads til everthing is mounted. Parts Express has the 33uf made by Dayton.
    I have used many different caps over the years, and the shunt cap(34uf) doesn't actually have the signal passing through it to the driver. I certainly amnot saying that using a bottom of the shelf electrolytic is good, but a decent Poly cap is all that is necessary. If you ordered the 17uf caps that is perfectly fine. The Sonicaps are very nice, and I used them pretty much exclusively for the high frequency circuits.
    Have fun, and keep the solder hot!
    Ben

    Edit: I had to add a link for the Dayton I missed.
    http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...number=027-441
    Thanks kcoc321
    Last edited by ben62670; 09-21-2009 at 04:06 AM.
    Please. Please contact me a ben62670 @ yahoo.com. Make sure to include who you are, and you are from Polk so I don't delete your email. Also I am now physically unable to work on any projects. If you need help let these guys know. There are many people who will help if you let them know where you are.
    Thanks
    Ben

  14. #14

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    Guys thank you for all the feedback and instruction

    Once again thank you

    Wilson

  15. #15

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    I agree with Ben. I doubt you'll notice a difference between Sonic Caps and Dayton for the 34uf, definitely stay away from electrolytic caps though.
    "He who fights with monsters should look to it that he himself does not become a monster. And when you gaze long into an abyss the abyss also gazes into you." Friedrich Nietzsche

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