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  1. #61

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    Quote Originally Posted by Jason_k View Post
    I just bought a set of LSI 15's for Music and got to say I love them. But as like most I find the bass a little lacking, got my hand on the trigger to do this mod, just wondering about this mortite stuff, any links for this product? pics of this installion floating around?

    Thanks
    http://www.conservationmart.com/p-81...caulk-f-4.aspx

    try a little google in your life :)
    Dodd - Battery Preamp
    Monarchy Audio SE100 Delux - mono power amps
    Sony DVP-NS999ES - SACD player
    ADS 1230 - Polk SDA 2B
    DIY Stereo Subwoofer towers w/(4) 12 drivers each
    Crown K1 - Subwoofer amp
    Outlaw ICBM - crossover
    Beringher BFD - sub eq

    Where is the remote? Where is the $%#$% remote!

    "I've always been mad, I know I've been mad, like the most of us have...very hard to explain why you're mad, even if you're not mad..."

  2. #62

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    Quote Originally Posted by tcrossma View Post
    Does anyone have any other suggestions on how to get the grills off? Honestly, I've tried just about everything. There's zero space around the edge of the grill to slide anything in there, and the grill doesn't stick up enough to pry it off. I've tried just about everything short of cutting the cloth, tearing the cover off, and ordering two new ones. These grill covers are just on too damn tight!
    No other suggestions, but the good news is that if you ever get them off, the hard part is out of the way:p The fact that it's so hard to get off is the main reason I haven't posted any pictures as has been requested.
    Last edited by PSOVLSK; 02-01-2010 at 11:22 PM.

  3. #63

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    I removed mine with a set of "dental" picks from Home Depot. I've found them multi-useful for many things audio. You just need to grab an edge, start from the bottom, pull lightly and work around.

    The frame is plastic so its ok to dig as opposed to using the actual loudspeaker as leverage. It's real easy to damage the speaker and less expensive to replace the grill.
    Last edited by dorokusai; 02-01-2010 at 11:17 PM.

  4. #64

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    Photos please, stock vs modded ...

  5. #65

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    Quote Originally Posted by jacob.simpson View Post
    Photos please, stock vs modded ...
    Honestly, it doesn't even matter that much unless you plan to run with your side covers off once you do the upgrade.
    Even then it's as simple as looking at a DB sub from polk in order to know how it will look.
    Living Room Rig:D
    Rotel RSP-1069/Rotel RMB-1095/Rotel-1072/Polk lsI15's W/modded xoverW/DBsubs/Polk LsiC/lsI7's/Klipsch sub-12"the weak link"/DLP Mitsubishi 65"
    Xbox360/PS3/WII
    M.Br. setup:)
    Emotiva MMC-1/Rotel RMB-1075/Polk BlackStone TL350's/Velodyne SPL1000/Samsung 51" Plasma
    Computer Rig:
    Rotel RB1050/Tannoy DC4's/Klipsch RW-10d/ImodIpod/HK AVR230 for now....
    Headphones-Ultrasone-HFI780's w/LittleDot MK Vamp Portables Panasonic HJE-900's

  6. #66

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    Quote Originally Posted by jacob.simpson View Post
    Photos please, stock vs modded ...
    Quote Originally Posted by PSOVLSK View Post
    The fact that it's so hard to get off is the main reason I haven't posted any pictures as has been requested.
    Quote Originally Posted by TouchOfEvil View Post
    Honestly, it doesn't even matter that much unless you plan to run with your side covers off once you do the upgrade.
    Even then it's as simple as looking at a DB sub from polk in order to know how it will look.
    If I thought pictures would help, I would take the time and effort to take them, but as ToE said, all it would show is a LSi15 with a DB sub in it.

  7. #67

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    I was wondering if anyone had done this mod using a different brand of sub, such as a JL sub?

  8. #68

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    Please don't pick a random driver to install in a LSi15.
    "He who fights with monsters should look to it that he himself does not become a monster. And when you gaze long into an abyss the abyss also gazes into you." Friedrich Nietzsche

  9. #69

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    Well, I've tried everything I can to remove the damn grills, and no luck. Those things are just stuck in there. I ordered two new drivers and 1 replacement grill thinking that I'd ruin at least one during the process, but in retrospect I should have ordered 2 because I have no choice but to just cut the cloth and yank the covers off. I'll report back once I get the new drivers installed.
    Speakers: Polk LSi15
    Pre: Adcom GFP-750 with HT Bypass
    Amp: Pass Labs X-150
    CD/DVD Player: Classe CDP-10
    Interconnects: MIT Shortgun S3 Pro XLR
    Speaker cables: MIT MH-750 bi-wire
    TT:Micro Seiki DD-35
    Cartridge:Denon DL-160
    Phono Pre:PS Audio GCPH

  10. #70

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    You tried the aforementioned pick?
    "He who fights with monsters should look to it that he himself does not become a monster. And when you gaze long into an abyss the abyss also gazes into you." Friedrich Nietzsche

  11. #71

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    before you cut, have you tried a plastic putty knife? The grill on my PSW350 was very tight, when I first got it, and I actually thought it didn't come off, until I saw some pictures with it off. That's what worked for me, but then I have never tried on a LSi, but they look the same.

    FWIW, the pegs/ tabs 'should' be at the 4 diagonal points, like 10oc, 2oc, 4oc, 8oc. Again, on mine, but that is logical. Good luck.

  12. #72

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    I tried a pick, I tried the zip ties, I tried a very thin screw driver, I tried a nail, I tried tweezers. I haven't tried a putty knife, because I don't see how it would work. I can barely fit the zip ties in around the edges of the grill, and there's so little of the grill sticking up (maybe 1/8") that I can't get anything to grip it. I don't want to damage the wood cabinet, and since the replacement grills are $12, I don't really have a problem with cutting them if that's what's needed.

    I've tried using my hands to grip the inside of the grill (stretching the cloth a bit), and while I can get a pretty good hold on the plastic perimeter, I can't pull it out. In other words, it's stuck in there! If after I cut the cloth I found they were glued on, I wouldn't be surprised. I'm sure they're not, but I literally can't make them even budge a little bit.
    Speakers: Polk LSi15
    Pre: Adcom GFP-750 with HT Bypass
    Amp: Pass Labs X-150
    CD/DVD Player: Classe CDP-10
    Interconnects: MIT Shortgun S3 Pro XLR
    Speaker cables: MIT MH-750 bi-wire
    TT:Micro Seiki DD-35
    Cartridge:Denon DL-160
    Phono Pre:PS Audio GCPH

  13. #73

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    Quote Originally Posted by tcrossma View Post
    I tried a pick, I tried the zip ties, I tried a very thin screw driver, I tried a nail, I tried tweezers. I haven't tried a putty knife, because I don't see how it would work. I can barely fit the zip ties in around the edges of the grill, and there's so little of the grill sticking up (maybe 1/8") that I can't get anything to grip it. I don't want to damage the wood cabinet, and since the replacement grills are $12, I don't really have a problem with cutting them if that's what's needed.

    I've tried using my hands to grip the inside of the grill (stretching the cloth a bit), and while I can get a pretty good hold on the plastic perimeter, I can't pull it out. In other words, it's stuck in there! If after I cut the cloth I found they were glued on, I wouldn't be surprised. I'm sure they're not, but I literally can't make them even budge a little bit.
    I believe the issue is new LSi15's vs the older ones. I own 2 pair of the old types and 2 pair of the new LSi15's. It is easy to remove the grills off the old ones, but the grilles are stuck on the new ones. I modified one pair of the old type but left the rubber gasket on the DB840's.

    Main HT/2 ch:
    Pioneer SC-07, BDP-05FD, Emotiva XPA-5 x 2, XPA-1 x 2,
    Polk Audio LSi25, RTi12 x 2, LSi15 x 4, LSiC x 2, PSW1000 x 4,

    MB HT/ 2 ch:
    LG 47LM5800, Pioneer SC-1523, BDP-23FD, Sony BDP-S790, Emotiva XPA-2, XPA-5,
    Polk Audio LSi25,15, CSi5, LSiFX, PSW505 x 4

    Listening Room 2 ch:
    McIntosh MC162, MC202, C15, C41, C42, MA6500, MA6900, MCD201
    Emotiva RSP-2, RPA-1, ERC-2
    Adcom GCD 750, GFP 750, GFA 5802
    Polk Audio LSi7,9, 15

  14. #74

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    Ok, so the new drivers arrived and I'm working on trying to get them installed. I got one of the grill covers off, but I had to poke a couple small holes in the cloth to do it. Let me tell you, those grills were on there TIGHT. No chance I could have removed it without damaging it.

    Now, I'm trying to remove the driver. Any tips there? Took the screws out, and it doesn't want to budge. There's nothing to grip onto it in order to pull it up and out, and really nothing to get any leverage on to pry it either. I currently have the speaker lying on the floor, upside down, hoping the weight of the driver will help it fall out.

    I tried removing the crossover, but there is no play in the wires so I can't even remove it far enough to reach my hand in and push the driver from the back.

    Anyone have any thoughts?
    Speakers: Polk LSi15
    Pre: Adcom GFP-750 with HT Bypass
    Amp: Pass Labs X-150
    CD/DVD Player: Classe CDP-10
    Interconnects: MIT Shortgun S3 Pro XLR
    Speaker cables: MIT MH-750 bi-wire
    TT:Micro Seiki DD-35
    Cartridge:Denon DL-160
    Phono Pre:PS Audio GCPH

  15. #75

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    Quote Originally Posted by tcrossma View Post
    I currently have the speaker lying on the floor, upside down, hoping the weight of the driver will help it fall out.
    Give it some time, it will.

    I tried removing the crossover, but there is no play in the wires so I can't even remove it far enough to reach my hand in and push the driver from the back.
    IIRC, even if you do remove the crossover, you would need some really small arms and hands to reach the back of the driver.
    "He who fights with monsters should look to it that he himself does not become a monster. And when you gaze long into an abyss the abyss also gazes into you." Friedrich Nietzsche

  16. #76

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    I let it sit for about 30 minutes, and it still wasn't even a little loose. So what I did is take the base off, then insert a stick up the port so I could push the driver from the back. Worked great. One speaker down, one to go.
    Speakers: Polk LSi15
    Pre: Adcom GFP-750 with HT Bypass
    Amp: Pass Labs X-150
    CD/DVD Player: Classe CDP-10
    Interconnects: MIT Shortgun S3 Pro XLR
    Speaker cables: MIT MH-750 bi-wire
    TT:Micro Seiki DD-35
    Cartridge:Denon DL-160
    Phono Pre:PS Audio GCPH

  17. #77

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    Good thinking!
    "He who fights with monsters should look to it that he himself does not become a monster. And when you gaze long into an abyss the abyss also gazes into you." Friedrich Nietzsche

  18. #78

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    While you have the driver removed, dampen the port with rubber mastic, dynamat or similar material. I popped my driver out when I removed the crossover, also from the rear.

  19. #79

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    tcrossma,
    Are you using the DB840 as the replacement driver? Do you know if the MM840 is an option for this mod or is there something about it that would not allow it to work well. Has anyone else conidered using the MM840?

  20. #80

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    Quote Originally Posted by dorokusai View Post
    While you have the driver removed, dampen the port with rubber mastic, dynamat or similar material. I popped my driver out when I removed the crossover, also from the rear.
    I had already finished, but could pop them back out at some point once I get some dynamat. What type of improvement is it supposed to make? And where should I apply it, on the driver itself or just stuffed in the port?

    Thanks for the help everyone. So far it sounds excellent, and I expect that it will get even better as they break in.
    Speakers: Polk LSi15
    Pre: Adcom GFP-750 with HT Bypass
    Amp: Pass Labs X-150
    CD/DVD Player: Classe CDP-10
    Interconnects: MIT Shortgun S3 Pro XLR
    Speaker cables: MIT MH-750 bi-wire
    TT:Micro Seiki DD-35
    Cartridge:Denon DL-160
    Phono Pre:PS Audio GCPH

  21. #81

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    I said dampen the port, not stuff it. You wrap it around the port itself since it's just a cardboard tube.

  22. #82

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    Quote Originally Posted by tcrossma View Post
    ...I expect that it will get even better as they break in.
    Yes. Yes it will.

    Sorry to hear you had so much trouble. As xcapri79 said, it must have something to do with older vs. newer model.

    love2listen: I don't know about the other driver you mentioned.

  23. #83

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    Quote Originally Posted by love2listen View Post
    tcrossma,
    Are you using the DB840 as the replacement driver? Do you know if the MM840 is an option for this mod or is there something about it that would not allow it to work well. Has anyone else conidered using the MM840?
    I think the MM840 is meant more for a sealed use. The lsi15's are ported.
    Living Room Rig:D
    Rotel RSP-1069/Rotel RMB-1095/Rotel-1072/Polk lsI15's W/modded xoverW/DBsubs/Polk LsiC/lsI7's/Klipsch sub-12"the weak link"/DLP Mitsubishi 65"
    Xbox360/PS3/WII
    M.Br. setup:)
    Emotiva MMC-1/Rotel RMB-1075/Polk BlackStone TL350's/Velodyne SPL1000/Samsung 51" Plasma
    Computer Rig:
    Rotel RB1050/Tannoy DC4's/Klipsch RW-10d/ImodIpod/HK AVR230 for now....
    Headphones-Ultrasone-HFI780's w/LittleDot MK Vamp Portables Panasonic HJE-900's

  24. #84

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    Quote Originally Posted by love2listen View Post
    tcrossma,
    Are you using the DB840 as the replacement driver? Do you know if the MM840 is an option for this mod or is there something about it that would not allow it to work well. Has anyone else conidered using the MM840?
    The MM840 is about 5db more efficient than the DB840 (90 vs 85db efficient). I would guess that the MM840 may make the speaker a little to bass heavy.Supposedy the enclosure size and porting in the LSi15 is just about right for the DB840 as well.

    The DB840 was not designed to work as a replacement for the LSi15 woofer, but it seems to be a very good environment for it. (from a size, porting and required efficiency standpoint).

    I do plan to do this mod to my 15's, and will be using the DB840 when I do. (rather than the potentially less ideal MM840)

    Michael
    Mains.............Polk LSi15 (Cherry)
    Center............Polk LSiC (Crossover upgraded)
    Surrounds.......Polk LSi7 (Gloss Black - wood sides removed and crossovers upgraded)
    Subwoofers.....SVS 25-31 CS+ and PC+ (both 20hz tune)
    Pre\Pro...........NAD T163 (Modded with LM4562 opamps)
    Amplifier.........Cinepro 3k6 (6-channel, 500wpc@4ohms)

  25. #85

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    Quote Originally Posted by dorokusai View Post
    I said dampen the port, not stuff it. You wrap it around the port itself since it's just a cardboard tube.
    Ah ok, thanks. I think I misunderstood what you meant before. This speaker mod stuff is a bit new to me :)
    Speakers: Polk LSi15
    Pre: Adcom GFP-750 with HT Bypass
    Amp: Pass Labs X-150
    CD/DVD Player: Classe CDP-10
    Interconnects: MIT Shortgun S3 Pro XLR
    Speaker cables: MIT MH-750 bi-wire
    TT:Micro Seiki DD-35
    Cartridge:Denon DL-160
    Phono Pre:PS Audio GCPH

  26. #86

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    Here are a few pics I took when I done this MOD. I bought the chaulking Tape at the hardware store, couldn't find any of the brand names mentioned here, but it seemed to do a good job.

    I'am happy with the Mod so far. Maybe Crossovers next? going to give this a little time first.
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    Last edited by Jason_k; 02-15-2010 at 08:17 PM.

  27. #87

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    Interesting. The driver didn't fit that snugly into my LSi15 opening -- it was smaller in diameter than the previous driver. I'd say there was a good 1/4" space around the edge. I put some mortite under the edge of the driver and it seemed to make a nice air tight seal, but it definitely didn't fit as snugly as yours.
    Speakers: Polk LSi15
    Pre: Adcom GFP-750 with HT Bypass
    Amp: Pass Labs X-150
    CD/DVD Player: Classe CDP-10
    Interconnects: MIT Shortgun S3 Pro XLR
    Speaker cables: MIT MH-750 bi-wire
    TT:Micro Seiki DD-35
    Cartridge:Denon DL-160
    Phono Pre:PS Audio GCPH

  28. #88

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    That is interesting, I bought them off a reputable(if there is such a thing) dealer on flea bay. They say DB840 on the box, I didn't check on the speaker. Once I took off the rubber gasket they came with, they fit very snug. Holes line up perfectly

  29. #89

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    Mine were also a nice snug fit. They would not drop in with the rubber seal on there for me.
    Living Room Rig:D
    Rotel RSP-1069/Rotel RMB-1095/Rotel-1072/Polk lsI15's W/modded xoverW/DBsubs/Polk LsiC/lsI7's/Klipsch sub-12"the weak link"/DLP Mitsubishi 65"
    Xbox360/PS3/WII
    M.Br. setup:)
    Emotiva MMC-1/Rotel RMB-1075/Polk BlackStone TL350's/Velodyne SPL1000/Samsung 51" Plasma
    Computer Rig:
    Rotel RB1050/Tannoy DC4's/Klipsch RW-10d/ImodIpod/HK AVR230 for now....
    Headphones-Ultrasone-HFI780's w/LittleDot MK Vamp Portables Panasonic HJE-900's

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    I didn't have to remove anything on my drivers -- there was nothing to remove, as far as I could tell. I had read about people needing to remove the rubber gasket, but mine either didn't need it removed or it didn't have it in the first place.

    Now I'm getting concerned about why mine isn't the same as everyone else's seems to be...
    Speakers: Polk LSi15
    Pre: Adcom GFP-750 with HT Bypass
    Amp: Pass Labs X-150
    CD/DVD Player: Classe CDP-10
    Interconnects: MIT Shortgun S3 Pro XLR
    Speaker cables: MIT MH-750 bi-wire
    TT:Micro Seiki DD-35
    Cartridge:Denon DL-160
    Phono Pre:PS Audio GCPH

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