adding another sub...

[sstalder5]

Right now in my car system I am running 2 polk db840dvc subs in ported boxes built to exactly 0.64 cubic ft. They sound amazing but I want to add another sub for showoff purposes. (you all know what I'm talking about, when the kid in the honda beater pulls up next to you and turns up his sony explodes and thinks he's awesome because his subs make alot of noise) So I am planning on adding a JL Audio w0v2 15'' with an alpine amp. What I want to do is make a ported box for the w0 and make sealed boxes for the DBs. My idea is that the w0 will give me the loud rumble and thump that I am looking for, but the DBs will keep a good punch in the system. I just want to keep some of my sq while still being able to crank it up to show the kids what real subs sound like. Does this sound like it will give me what Im looking for on a budget <$500?

Here are my specs:

Alpine cdm-xxxx hu (cant remember the number)
Alpine mrp- f300 4 channel amp
Polk audio pa400.1 amp
Polk audio db651 door speakers x4
Polk audio db840dvc subs x2
Scoshe 0.5 farad capacitor

want to add:

Alpine MRP-m500
JL Audio 15w0v2-4

[cadenceclipse]

real subs?? i think you'll keep some sq by sealing but losing a lot more with that 15. building a new box? build a single sealed, remove rears, bridge ch 3 and 4 on single sealed 8, use 400.1 on an SR 12. That'll show 'em;) where u plan on putting all these subs anyway?

[sstalder5]

I don't want to sacrifice my rear speakers, and why not the 15?

and im putting them in my subaru outback. Massive cargo area.

[Installer4life]

Unless you move the 8 inch woofers to the front of the car the 15 will cancel them out. A system designed for in car experience is different from one designed to be heard blocks away. If you are happy with your sound quality and it sounds like you are why not add the 15" woofer in a ported box tuned to very low frequency. Keep it seperate from your normal listening system an only turn it on when someone annoys you. Its pretty easy to do with just a simple switch on the remote wire. However the 15 will resonate at some frequency and add some bass to your system even in the off position. I seriously doubt you will notice it though. That way you get the sound quality you want the the wow feature you are looking for.

[Jstas]

Unless you move the 8 inch woofers to the front of the car the 15 will cancel them out.

How could one woofer wired in phase with another, dis-similar woofer cancel the other out? If that was the case most home audio tower speakers or MTM bookshelf speakers would not work.

[sstalder5]

Unless you move the 8 inch woofers to the front of the car the 15 will cancel them out. A system designed for in car experience is different from one designed to be heard blocks away. If you are happy with your sound quality and it sounds like you are why not add the 15" woofer in a ported box tuned to very low frequency. Keep it seperate from your normal listening system an only turn it on when someone annoys you. Its pretty easy to do with just a simple switch on the remote wire. However the 15 will resonate at some frequency and add some bass to your system even in the off position. I seriously doubt you will notice it though. That way you get the sound quality you want the the wow feature you are looking for.

I really like the idea of this. But wouldn't I want to run the switch on the remote line instead so the amp is turning off/on normally instead of having the power cut on/off all the time? And it wouldn't be practical because I would have to run the power wire all the way back up front from the cap to the switch then back to the amp in the back.

[dudeinaroom]

No not on the power lead, but the remote lead like installer said in the first place. You are also saying the same thing?

[sstalder5]

No not on the power lead, but the remote lead like installer said in the first place. You are also saying the same thing?

my bad, i misread it. :D

[Installer4life]

How could one woofer wired in phase with another, dis-similar woofer cancel the other out? If that was the case most home audio tower speakers or MTM bookshelf speakers would not work.

I guess I should have said that the 15's output would drown out the 8's output. So he would not retain the same sound he has now. And if he is happy with his current setup then adding the 15 would change this.

[sstalder5]

I ended up getting 2 MM 12s and a 1500 watt amp instead. Threw a bass control knob on the dash and I have great sound. thanks for the help. And the 8s are kinda drowned out now at full blast, but at lower levels they add pretty nice sound to the system. I am debating taking them out though.

[concealer404]

I ended up getting 2 MM 12s and a 1500 watt amp instead. Threw a bass control knob on the dash and I have great sound. thanks for the help. And the 8s are kinda drowned out now at full blast, but at lower levels they add pretty nice sound to the system. I am debating taking them out though.

You mean that two 12s powered by a 1500w amp in a space that's maybe 5x10 is drowning out other drivers? Shocking.

[sstalder5]

You mean that two 12s powered by a 1500w amp in a space that's maybe 5x10 is drowning out other drivers? Shocking.

Dont worry, I have a control knob on the signal line to the 1500w amp. It sounds amazing with the bass just right. But now I can also rattle the **** out of the other cars on the road if I want to. I also set off my first car alarm the other day!