SR-104 SVC issues

[Roboz]

I have a Polk refrubished SR-104 that i got from PolkDirect ebay store and it has passed the warranty period. I kept it in a sealed MTX 10" box with .89cuf. The sub started gong on and off while driving and the amp is fine. When I push on the cone the subwoofer will start playing again for a bit. I believe the tinsel leads are bad and was wonering how i would go about repairing or would it be best to find a shop to do it? And if any reasourse to find repair shops in the washington DC area or where to ship it.

Also i have had trouble sealing the air around the screws 100% and was probably the cause for the tinsls to go bad. any suggestions for sealing?

Thanks for the input

-Rob

[chu]

You must have wired it wrong, and the sub is damaged. You will need to replace it.

[Roboz]

That is really my only option?

[chu]

You can try talking to the polk csr and see if they can do anything about it even if its out of warranty.

[Phillips]

I realize this is old, and I rarely bring up old posts, but this is just terrible help for a user from this forum. Chu, you at least pointed him in a helpful direction. I hope the original author can still be helped.

You can't wire an SVC sub "wrong", unless you had two of them and you wired them in parallel when you should have wired them in series, thus making the amp drive too hard and go into protection mode. (if the amp has that mode)

If the Tinsel leads are just broken at their solder points at the terminals, resolder them. I really hope you did not junk that sub based on terrible advice. ("you wired it wrong")

[Roboz]

Thanks for the reply. i just waited for a decent reply, i have been busy with other things since anyways. i would never do such a thing as to get rid of it. i had an old 12" DB i hooked up and worked fine. the amp has protect mode. i figured if i wired it wrong it wouldnt work, and i knew it was also in phase. i check these kinds of things first.

i guess with this sub since its so well made and heavily surrounded im not sure if how to get to the tinsels.

[809peter]

I agree with Phillis. This askes for a little more investigation.

I could be the protection mode from the amp or bad tinsel connections.
But, what you also should do is measure the impedance of the voice coil with a multimeter. I should measure about 4 Ohms. Try to 'play' with pushing the cone. The resistance shouldn't go up and down like crazy. If it is, your sub could be blown.
(Strange when it is freshly refurbished).

Way back I had a blown sub, and experienced the same thing as you described. When I pushed the cone, it would play. But when it was in 'rest', it didn't play automaticly, only when I pushed the cone. The last thing is different from your description, so put all your hopes in the broken tinsel connections!!!

Good luck!

[Roboz]

well it lasted about 4 - 5 months. when it first went out i was able to push the cone in and out and it would kick on and off, sometimes stay on. the amp never went into protect while it happened

[809peter]

OK, now it's time to measure the impedance of the voice coil I guess.

About your other questions. With this type of sub I don't have any idea how to reach the tinsel leads for repair. I guess it should be possible by removing the casing. But how to do it carefully?? I think only an expert could give you that answer.
Post a more specific threads about the tinsel leads on the SR-104, is my suggestion.

About sealing. Weatherstrips and a nice and flat box surface could do the trick.
Why do you think this whas the cause for the tinsel leads to go bad?

[Roboz]

i thought that i read somewhere that if not 100% sealed it would cause distortion and eventually mess up the subwoofer because of the air pressure not pusing back on the cone correctly

[809peter]

I certainly agree on that one. It causes distortion and could mess up the sub!
But I rather think that it messes up the surround, than the tinsels. It also could be the cause of a blown sub!! The coil gets much hotter, when the cone doesn't move the way it should.
Imagine when the sub pushes in, when there is a tiny airleak, air gets pushed out. Now the sub moves 'out', there is less air in the enclosure (the air gets sucked in again), so the sub cannot complete it's full cycle.
You are better of with a couple of big air gaps, then one very small leak. However, I would never build a sealed enclose with big airleakes.

Measured the voicecoil yet?

[Roboz]

sorry i need to learn to read.

I measured and my multimeter seems to just drop to zero

[Roboz]

i figure theres nothing i can do aside from take it to a repair shop.. thanks everyone though

[809peter]

I'm sorry to hear that.
Good luck !