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  1. #31

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    Question

    Great work on the speakers. I am lookin at Dynamating my SDA 1C's in the near future. How much Dynamat did you need to do your 1C's and what did it run you. Eventually I will do the RDO's and crossovers.:D

  2. #32

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    looking good Larry

  3. #33

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    Quote Originally Posted by salasg View Post
    Great work on the speakers. I am lookin at Dynamating my SDA 1C's in the near future. How much Dynamat did you need to do your 1C's and what did it run you. Eventually I will do the RDO's and crossovers.:D
    Thanks!!

    I paid $25.00 for a sheet and have done my 1.2tl's a set of monitor 10's and a set of monitor 7's

    I had to order another sheet for this project..
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  4. #34

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    Quote Originally Posted by hearingimpared View Post
    The least little bit of gap between the side panel and the box will cause some rattling. My 1.2TL had a split in the seam in the lower right of the cabinet. On bass heavy passages it rattled and buzzed until I sealed it up. The gap couldn't have been more than a hair thick.
    Thats what I was worried about I will just glue them back on as Leroy says below..

    It was just a thought anyway..

    Quote Originally Posted by leroyjr1 View Post
    Reinstall the correct way it'll last another 20 years.
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  5. #35

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    I should have called in sick as I would rather be working on these..LOL;)
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  6. #36

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    For those side panels you may consider the solution Geoff727 did with my SDA-1C's. He made the side panels removable with snap on's much like the front grill panels. Makes it very easy to remove for recloth and they don't rattle at all.
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  7. #37

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    How much of a difference does the Dynamat and Mortite make. Has anyone done just these mods by themselves ???

    Looking good Larry.

  8. #38

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    Mortite on the mid woofers is very noticeable.
    "He who fights with monsters should look to it that he himself does not become a monster. And when you gaze long into an abyss the abyss also gazes into you." Friedrich Nietzsche

  9. #39

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    Thanks Face. Finally a cheap upgrade - lol

  10. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by Face View Post
    Mortite on the mid woofers is very noticeable.
    Don't you mean Dynamat Mike? Mortite is for sealing.

  11. #41

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    Quote Originally Posted by hearingimpared View Post
    Don't you mean Dynamat Mike? Mortite is for sealing.
    The Mortite also improves bass tightness and IMO is more noticeable than dampening the baskets with Dynamat. Both are still worthwhile tweaks.
    "He who fights with monsters should look to it that he himself does not become a monster. And when you gaze long into an abyss the abyss also gazes into you." Friedrich Nietzsche

  12. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by Face View Post
    The Mortite also improves bass tightness and IMO is more noticeable than dampening the baskets with Dynamat. Both are still worthwhile tweaks.
    Gottcha, I did both; Dynamat first which made a big improvement and then Part Express Speaker sealer instead of Mortite which made another improvement. I realized a better improvement or more dramatic improvement with the Dynamat but that could be because I did this first and the sealer may have just sured things up as I don't think I had any leaks in the cabinet.

    I felt the Dynamat cleaned up the midrange and made it more detailed among other things.

    Either way they are both great inexpensive tweeks that really work.
    Last edited by hearingimpared; 03-08-2010 at 06:13 PM.

  13. #43

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    Quote Originally Posted by Face View Post
    The Mortite also improves bass tightness and IMO is more noticeable than dampening the baskets with Dynamat. Both are still worthwhile tweaks.
    I had the same experience. The Mortite damped the mids preventing the vibrations from causing cabinet noise.
    Ben
    Please. Please contact me a ben62670 @ yahoo.com. Make sure to include who you are, and you are from Polk so I don't delete your email. Also I am now physically unable to work on any projects. If you need help let these guys know. There are many people who will help if you let them know where you are.
    Thanks
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  14. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by ben62670 View Post
    I had the same experience. The Mortite damped the mids preventing the vibrations from causing cabinet noise.
    Ben
    I didn't know that Mortite had damping properties. I thought it was just a sealer that's why I went with PE speaker sealer cord.

  15. #45

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    I mortited the drivers on my 1.2tl's first then Dynamated later on, I found that the Dynamat gave the sound much better clarity. with the 1C's I will just put them together with everything at once and plug and play..

    The three BIGGEST tweaks one can do outside the crossovers, is Mortite, Dynamat and Spikes... Spikes probably being my favorite, I was floored after putting spikes on my 1.2tl's.
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  16. #46

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    Default Binding Posts I ordered..

    The Vampire BPHEXCB is a binding post made from solid high purity Copper directly plated with Gold.

    They look nice...
    Attached Images  
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  17. #47

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    Double Post Sorry..
    Last edited by Toolfan66; 03-08-2010 at 09:03 PM.
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  18. #48

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    Picked up some 1/4" MDF to make new side panels..




    I have put on 4 coats of polyurethane

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  19. #49

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    Pictures Suck they do no justice!!!
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  20. #50
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    Quote Originally Posted by TOOLFORLIFEFAN View Post
    The Vampire BPHEXCB is a binding post made from solid high purity Copper directly plated with Gold.

    They look nice...
    Nice and heavy too. They look purty.

    Quote Originally Posted by TOOLFORLIFEFAN View Post
    Pictures Suck they do no justice!!!
    Sucky pics or not it still looks really good.

  21. #51

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    [QUOTE=hearingimpared;1294906]Nice and heavy too. They look purty.

    I am looking forward to seeing the binding post, should be here this week.
    And for the money they better be Nice..LOL:p
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  22. #52
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    [QUOTE=TOOLFORLIFEFAN;1294917]
    Quote Originally Posted by hearingimpared View Post
    Nice and heavy too. They look purty.

    I am looking forward to seeing the binding post, should be here this week.
    And for the money they better be Nice..LOL:p
    I said the same thing when I purchased my Cardas CCCRs. I was floored by their weight and quality. The Vampires look pretty much the same. Good stuff.

  23. #53

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    Default JB weld time...

    JB weld time, not the best part of this job but not bad.

    To me since you have the drivers out, and original replacement drivers can be a pain in the ass to find,a little extra insurance is not a bad idea. I put a little JB weld in 8 places around the magnets.


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  24. #54
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    Well done Larry. I wish I had to know-how and equipment to do such things.

  25. #55

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    Larry you want to put the JB weld between the magnet and the basket;)
    Please. Please contact me a ben62670 @ yahoo.com. Make sure to include who you are, and you are from Polk so I don't delete your email. Also I am now physically unable to work on any projects. If you need help let these guys know. There are many people who will help if you let them know where you are.
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  26. #56

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    Quote Originally Posted by ben62670 View Post
    Larry you want to put the JB weld between the magnet and the basket;)
    Where and why?

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    The magnet has a plate on each side, the one closest to the basket is rivited 4 times. to me the speaker would have to take a good fall to shear the rivits and cause the magnet to move or come off completely, and IMO you would have more damage then just a magnet coming off the basket.

    Now the magnet itself is glued on each side to hold it in place between the two plates, and if it slips it will lock the driver up for good or if it slips just a hair it can cause the coil to rub on the shaft that is on the top plate.

    This is why I find it more critical to JB weld around the magnet where I did in the pics, and as we have seen some of these drivers being 20+ years old that if and when that glue fails you lose the driver.

    I have one that I pulled from a Monitor 10 where the glue failed. I will post some pics tonight.

    Larry.
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  28. #58
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    Quote Originally Posted by TOOLFORLIFEFAN View Post
    The magnet has a plate on each side, the one closest to the basket is rivited 4 times. to me the speaker would have to take a good fall to shear the rivits and cause the magnet to move or come off completely, and IMO you would have more damage then just a magnet coming off the basket.

    Now the magnet itself is glued on each side to hold it in place between the two plates, and if it slips it will lock the driver up for good or if it slips just a hair it can cause the coil to rub on the shaft that is on the top plate.

    This is why I find it more critical to JB weld around the magnet where I did in the pics, and as we have seen some of these drivers being 20+ years old that if and when that glue fails you lose the driver.

    I have one that I pulled from a Monitor 10 where the glue failed. I will post some pics tonight.


    Larry.
    Okay, I'm convinced now when are you coming over to weld the eight MWs in my 1.2 TLs?:D

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    Quote Originally Posted by ben62670 View Post
    Larry you want to put the JB weld between the magnet and the basket;)
    kinda what i was thinking lol.

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    Quote Originally Posted by mhmacw View Post
    kinda what i was thinking lol.

    Your not getting it.. I will start a thread with pics tonight as to why I am doing it this way..

    Now I beleive there are early drivers that are not rivited, and I would agree to putting JB weld between the basket and magnet.. these have rivits so I see no need to put JB weld there. unless of course you plan to abuse the **** out of your drivers to the point of killing them..
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